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ART FABRICS 

FOR DRESSES & FURNITURE. 


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Cashmeres. 


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v ' Show Rooms, where will be found new, original, artistic and exclu- 
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CARPETS, TAPESTRIES, SILKS, 

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Catalogues and Patterns Post Free. 

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Old ajn d Barb Books 
Bought and So Lb. 


The Washington Book Shop 

JAMES O’NEIL, Prop. 

509 7th Street, N. W.. 



















■ 


























■ 















BROWN’S HOTEL, 

TO WHICH HAS BEEN ADDED THE 

ST. GEORGE’S HOTEL, 

21, 22, 23, 24, DOVER STREET, 

AND 

31, 32, 33, 34, ALBEMARLE STREET, 

London, W, 


ELEVATORS. £LECTfilc L|G « T throughout. FIXED BATHS. 


PUBLIC DRAWING, DINING, AND SMOKING ROOMS, etc. 

NO CHARGE FOR ATTENDANCE OR ELECTRIC LIGHT 

Inclusive Prices given if desired. 


Telephonic Communication with the principal Business Houses, 
Theatres, Libraries, etc., ancl the Houses of Parliament, Exchange Tele¬ 
graph News Tape Post Office Letter Box. 

The Sanitary Appliances and Plumbing’ are of the most Modern 
Construction, and Certificates of their Excellence from English and 
American Physicians can be seen at the Bureau of the Hotel. 

Fire Extinguishing Apparatus fixed throughout, and Perfect 

Safety is Secured in every part of the Hotel by Nine different staircases from 
the upper floors. 


J. /. FORD & SONS, 

Proprietors > 

Telephone No. 3,696. 

Telegrams “ BROWNOTEL, LONDON.” 








THE CIVIL SERVICE CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY, 

LIMITED, 

28, Haymarket, London, S.W. 

[Established 1866 .] 


In compliance with the request of several influential clients 
the Directors now afford facilities for dealing at the Store, to 
Americans who may be visiting, or temporarily residing, in 
London. 

Particulars as to Membership can be obtained on application to 
the Secretary. 


THE STORE COMPRISES THE FOLLOWING 
DEPARTMENTS 


ARTISTS’ COLOURS AND MATE¬ 
RIALS. 

BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, ETC. 
BICYCLES AND TRICYCLES. 
BOOKS AND MUSIC. 

BOOTS AND SHOES. 

BRUSHES. 

CARPETS, CURTAINS, FLOOR¬ 
CLOTH, ETC. 

CARRIAGES, ETC. 

CHEMICALS, DRUGS, MEDI¬ 
CINES, ETC. 

CHINA, GLASS, EARTHENWARE, 
ETC. 

CIGARS, TOBACCO, PIPES, ETC. 
CLOCKS AND WATCHES. 
COSTUMES. 

CUTLERY, ETC. 

DRAPERY, HOSIERY, UMBREL¬ 
LAS, ETC. 

DRESSES, MANTLES, ETC. 
ELECTRO-PLATE, SILVER, ETC. 
FISHING RODS, TACKLE, ETC. 
FLOWERS. 

FRESH MEAT. 

FRUITS, SWEETS, ETC. 


FURNITURE. 

FURS. 

GAMES, ETC. 

GROCERY. 

GUNS, AMMUNITION, ETC. 
HABERDASHERY. 

HATS, ETC. 

IRONMONGERY, BATHS, ETC. 
JEWELRY. 

LADIES’ UNDERCLOTHING. 
LAMPS. 

MATS, TURNERY, ETC. 
MILLINERY. 

OPTICAL GOODS AND SCIENTIFIC 
INSTRUMENTS. 

PERFUMERY, HAIR WASHES, 
ETC 

PROVISIONS, POULTRY, GAME. 
REFRESHMENTS. 

SADDLERY, HARNESS, ETC 
STATIONERY. 

SURGICAL INSTRUMENTS, 
TAILORING AND MILITARY 
OUTFITTING. 

TRUNKS, PORTMANTEAUS, ETC. 
WINES, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS. 


An Illustrated Price List will be forwarded on Application. 




LAMBERT, 


COVENTRY STREET, PICCADILLY, LONDON, W. 



LARGEST COLLECTION OP SECOND-HAND 

PLATE IN THE WORLD. 

# 













































SPIERS & POND. 
NEW STORES 

NOW OPEN. 

QUEEN VICTORIA STREET, & WATER LANE, 
LUDGATE, E.C. 


DEPARTMENTS 


Wine and Cigars, 
Meat, 

Poultry, 

Fish, 

Provisions, 

Fruits, 

Grocery, 

Drugs, 

Perfumes, 


Stationery, 

Music, 

Glass and China, 
Hardware, 
Watches and 
Clocks, 
Jewellery, 
Plate, 

Cutlery, 


Turnery, 

Games, 

Hosiery, 
Haberdashery, 
Boots, 
Tailoring, 
Drapery, 
Mantles and 
Costumes. 


MODEL STEAM LAUNDRY. 

HOTEL COUPONS. I SANITARY SURVEYING. 

All at Lowest “Stores Prices'. 


DAILY FREE DELIVERY BY OWN VANS. 


NO TICKETS. 

BONUS TO DEPOSIT-ACCOUNT CUSTOMERS. 


“ Best Quality the Truest Economy 













HOOK, KNOWLES, & CO., 


BOOT AND SHOE MANUFACTURERS 
TO THE COURTS OF EUROPE. 

BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO 

H.R.H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES, 

66 & 65, NEW BOND STREET. 

Gentlemen’s Department, No. 65 . 


HAT MANUFACTURER 

TO H.R.H. PRINCE OF WALES, K.G. 

AND H.R.H. DUKE OF CLARENCE AND AVONDALE, K.G. 

ETC., ETC. 

HERBERT JOHNSON 

(Late with LINCOLN, BENNETT, & Co.), 

45, NEW BOND STREET, W. 

DEPARTMENTS— 

(GENTLEMEN'S VELVET-NAPPED CLUB CAPS IN SILK AND TWEED 
AND SILK HATS OF MOST MATERIALS. 

FASHIONABLE STYLES. YOUTHS’ SILK AND FELT 

CRUSH HATS FOR THE OPERA HATS. 

AND THEATRE. LADIES' SILK AND FELT RIDING 

FELT HATS IN ALL COLOURS. j HATS. 

TWEED CAPS of NEWEST DESIGNS. ) HAT CASES. 

Etc., etc. 

Special Blocks made to meet the requirements of Customers. 

The requirements of American Ladies and Gentlemen very carefully 

attended to. 





Browns & St. George’s Hotels, the Burlington, Long’s, the Bristol, 

And other principal West End Hotels mentioned in Chapter II. of this publication. 

George Edward, 

DIAMOND MERCHANT, 

Manufacturing Goldsmith, Jeweller and Silversmith, Watch and Clock Maker, 

62, PICCADILLY, W., 

IMMEDIATELY OPPOSITE ST. JAMES'S STREET. 





LYCEUM THEATRE. 


Sole Lessee and Manager . . - - Mr. Henry Irving. 


During the Months of 

SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, AND NOVEMBER, 

1891 . 


MR. AUGUSTIN DALY’S 

COMPANY OF COMEDIANS 

(From Daly’s Theatre, New York, U.S.A.), 

WILL PLAY THEIR FIFTH ENGAGEMENT IN LONDON. 


Miss ADA REHAN, 

Mrs. GILBERT, ISABEL IRVING, 

KITTY CHEATHAM, EDITH CRANE, 

ADELAIDE PRINCE, and 

Mr. JOHN DREW, 

GEORGE CLARKE, CHARLES WHEATLEIGH, 

ROBERT TABER, FREDERICK BOND, 

CHARLES LECLERCQ, SIDNEY HERBERT, etc. 

Mr. JAMES LEWIS. 


Mr. DALY will PRODUCE DURING THIS VISIT 

A NIGHT OFF, 

The LAST WORD, The RAILROAD of LOVE, 
AS YOU LIKE IT, 

The COUNTRY GIRL, 

and SCHOOL for SCANDAL. 


PREVIOUS -mi 

To this ENGAGEMENT in LONDON Mr. DALY’S COMPANY 
Will PLAY ENGAGEMENTS in PARIS and BERLIN, 









CRYSTAL PALACE 

OPEN DAILY. 

Admission ONE SHILLING , except on dates of Saturday Concerts and 
other Special Concerts and Shows , when the price of admission 
is advertised in daily papers. 


THE MOST DELIGHTFUL RESORT FOR BRIGHT LIFE 
AND REFINED AMUSEMENT. 


The Best Free Popular Entertainments. 


ILLUMINATED GARDEN FETES AND 
AL FRESCO BALLETS. 

Magnificent Firework Displays. 

GRAND CENTRAL NAVE 

LARGEST and MOST BEAUTIFULLY DECORATED COVERED 
PROMENADE IN THE WORLD. 

Park, Gardens, Lakes, Lawns, Shrubberies and 
Plantations (200 Acres). 


The great MUSICAL CELEBRATION of 1891 will be the Tenth Triennial 

HANDEL FESTIVAL, 

June 19th, 22nd, 24th, and 26th. 

CHORUS and ORCHESTRA, 4,000 Performers. 

The Solo Vocalists will include :— 


MADAME ALBANI, 

MISS MACINTYRE, and 
MADAME NORDICA, 

MISS MARIAN M'KENZIE. 


MR. EDWARD LLOYD, and 
MR. BARTON McGUCKIN. 

MR. SANTlIy, 

MR. W. H. BRERETON, and 
MR. BRIDSON. 


Conductor: 


M R. AUGUST MANNS. 


Frequent Trains from London Bridge, Yictoria and Addison Road (Kensing¬ 
ton), by London, Brighton and South Coast Railway; and from Holbora 
Viaduct, Moorgate Street, Ludgate Hill, St. Paul’s and Victoria, by tie London, 
Chatham and Dover (High Level) line. 








ROYAL 


Military Tournament, 

1891. 


Agricultural Hall, Islington. 


OPENS 


TUESDAY, 26th of MAY, 


CLOSES 


SATURDAY, 6th of JUNE. 



Ube 1Ro\>al Ertoltsb ©pern, 

CAMBRIDGE CIRCUS, SHAFTESBURY AVENUE. 

Sole Proprietor and Manager : R. D’OYIA CARTE. 


Words by 

JULIAN STURGIS. 


Every Evening at 8 p.m., 

IVANHOE. 


Music by 

ARTHUR SULLIVAN. 


Richard Cocur-de-Lion, King f 

of England.(. 

Prince John 


(Disguised as the Black 
Knight) 


XLhc Cast. 

) Mr. Norman Salmond and 
J Mr. Franklin Clive. 

Mr. Richard Green. 

, r-. . n ... . / (Commander of the Order of\ Mr. Eug'ene Ondin and 

Sir Brian de Bois-Guilbert.. j Knights Templars) f Mr. Francois Noije. 

Maurice de Bracv . '..-Mr. Charles Kenningham. 

{Grand Master of the J Mr Ai)AMS 0wen> 

1 Mr. Ffrangcon Davies and 
J Mr. W. II. Burgon. 

I Mr. Ben Davies and 
J Mr. J. O’Mara. 

Mr. Avon Saxon. 

Mr. Charles Copland. 

Mr. W. H. Stephens. 

. Mr. F. Bovill. 

1 Miss Palliser and 
J Miss Lucille Hill. 

.Miss Marie Groebl. 

(Daughter of Isaac of \ Miss Macintyre and 
York) J Miss Thudichum. 

Stage Manager : Mr. HUGH MOSS. Musical Director-. Mr. FRANCOIS CELLIER. 
Conductors—Mu. F. CELLIER and Mr. ERNEST FORD. ’ 


Lucas de Beaumanoir .. { 
Cedric the Saxon .•[ 

Wilfred, Knight of Ivanhoej 

Friar Tuck 
Isaac 
Loeksley 
The Squire 

The Lady Rowena 
Ulrica 
Rebecca .. 


Templars) 

(Thane of Rotherwood) 
(His Son, disguised as a 


Palmer) 
(The Jew of York ) 


(Ward of Cedric) 


Sc. 1.- 
Sc. 2.- 
Sc. 3.- 




Mr. J. Harker. 


Sc. 1.- 
Sc. 2.- 
Sc. 3.- 


sc. l.—: 


Sc. 2.- 
Sc. 3.- 


act L 

The Hall of Botherwood . 

An Ante-Chamber in Botherwood. 

The Lists at Ashby-de-la-Zouche. 

act m. 

The Forest. Friar Tuck’s Hut at Copmanhurst 
Passage Way in the Castle of Torquilstone 
Turret Chamber in Torquilstone.. 

act m. 

Boom in Torquilstone. The Assault. The Burning of \ ^ ^ ^ M 

the Castle ... ... ... ... ... ... ... j 

The Forest .\ 

The Preceptory of Templestowe ... . .../ 



Mr. W. Telbin. 


The Theatre is lighted entirely by Electricity, there being no Gas whatever laid on. 


NO FEES OF ANY KIND. 

P ROGRAMMES are provided and WRAPS taken FREE OF CHARGE. Any attendant 
detected in accepting money from visitors will be instantly dismissed ; the Public are 
therefore requested not to tempt the attendants by offering them gratuities. 


The Refreshment Saloons, superintended by Mr. Con Doherty, are under the direct 
control of the Management, and everything will be found to be of the best quality. 


Box Office always Open from 9 a.m. till 11 p.m. Doors open at 7.30 p.m. 
Private Boxes, £5 5s., £4 4s., and £3 3s. ; Royal Tier Stalls, 15/-; Orchestra Stalls, 
15/-; Last Three Rows of Royal Tier Stalls, 10/6; Circle Stalls, 7/6; Last Three 
Rows, 6/-; Amphitheatre Stalls (numbered and reserved), 4/-. 


The Theatre is FIREPROOF, the building being of bricks, steel and concrete. The 
Stage Scenery, etc., is protected against Fire by an elaborate system of Water “Sprinklers” 
placed over the Stage. 

Bequest 


Albert Adsit Clemons 


Aug. 24, 1938 


fNTrYk (Lvnilo 















EGYPTIAN HALL, 

England’s Home of Mystery. 


Lessee and Manager - MR. J. N. MASKELYNE. 


NINETEENTH CONSECUTIVE YEAR IN LONDON. 

Performance TWICE DAILY, at 3 and 8. 

The Oldest-Established and Premier Magical Entertainment 
of the World. 

magical'sketches, 

INTRODUCING 

Astounding Illusions 

AND SO-CALLED 

SPIRITUAL MANIFESTATIONS, 

An Ingenious Interweaving of 

REFINED FUN,. 

AND 

PROFOUND MYSTERY. 

Inimitable, consequently Unique. 


Fauteuils, 5s.; Reserved Seats, 3s.; Area, 2s.; Balcony, Is. 
Children, Half-Price (Balcony excepted). Babies, Ten Guineas each. 

















VISITORS 


WHO KEEP 


TO 

THE LARGEST STOCK 

IN ENGLAND 

OF 

LONDON 

Views of All Parts of the 
World. 

SHOULD NOT FAIL TO 

— 

VISIT 

PHOTOGRAPHIC APPARATUS OF 
EVERY SORT. 

THE 

Kodaks and all Necessaries 

in Stock. 

Stereoscopic 

FREE LESSONS IN 
PHOTOGRAPHY. 

COMPANY’S, 

DAYLIGHT AND ELECTRIC-LIGHT 
STUDIOS, 

106 & 108, REGENT 

PLATES AND FILMS DEVELOPED 

STREET, W., 

— 

AND 

Portraits of Actors, Actresses, 
Political, Royal and 

Other Celebrities. 


/ 


54, CHEAPSIDE, E.C. 


PRICE LISTS FREE BY POST, SEVEN STAMPS. 









RESTAURANT 



J, H. STEWARD’S 



BINOCULAR 

FIELD, MARINE, 

AND 


TOURIST GLASSES 


Ha Ye a world-wide reputation 
for fine definition, power and 
large field view. 

Prices £1 1.?. to £12 12 a 


Illustrated Catalogues 

Gratis, Post free to all parts 
of the World. 


Aneroid Barometers of best 
quality for Mountain Measure¬ 
ments and Foretelling Weather, 
price from 35s. 


OPTICIAN to the British and 
Foreign Governments and the 
National Rifle Association. 

THE HIKE BINOCULAR, JEO 6s. 

406, 457, STRAND; 54, CORNHILL, LONDON. 

















































































REDMAYNE & CO, 

SILK-MERCERS, LACEMEN, COSTUMIERS, 


HOSIERS & GENERAL DRAPERS, 

Invite the attention of American Ladies and Others 
visiting London to their choice and exclusive collection 
of Specialities in 

SILKS, SATINS, VELVETS, MANTLES, 
WRAPS, JACKETS, FURS; 
COSTUMES; 

BALL, DINNER and RECEPTION GOWNS; 
BRIDES’ & BRIDESMAIDS’ TOILETTES; 

LACE, HOSIERY, RIBBONS; 
GLOVES; PARASOLS, EN TOUT CAS; 
JERSEYS, &c. 


Ladies’ Underclothing and Dressmaking. 


A Succession of Novelties in all Departments to meet 
the Requirements of each Season. 


19 & 20, NEW BOND STREET, andw 0ND0N w 
34 & 35, CONDUIT STREET, ) ’ 





LONDON OF TO-DAY. 


1891. 


STREETERS’ 

DIAMONDS, RUBIES, 
SAPPHIRES, PEARLS, 

AND 

aAll Other Precious and Semi-precious Stones , 

AT PRICES CONSISTENT WITH RELIABLE VALUE. 


18, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON, W. 





















London of To-Day 


AN ILL US TR A TED HANDBOOK 
FOR THE SEASON 
1891. 





BY 

CHARLES EYRE PASCOE. 


The Seventh Annual'Edition , revised and in part re-written, and 
comprising numerous additional Illustrations. 






BOSTON: 

Roberts Brothers. 

1891. 


E. & R. GARROULD, 

150 152, 154, 156, 158, & 128, 130, EDGWARE ROAD, 

HYDE PARK, 
LONDON, W. 

Everyone should visit 
Garrould's 

Great Drapery Emporium" 

and General Store. 



♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ 


Fashionable 

COSTUMES, MANTLES, 
SILKS, SEAL-SKINS, 
MILLINERY, &c„ 

At Moderate Prices. 


Tweedjackets and Gowns 
made by their own 
Tailors. 


Modern London says : 

“E. & R. GARROULD’S in 
the Edgware Road, is one of the 
great Drape>y Emporia of the 
Metropolis, and has for many 
years been amongst the busiest 
in the West End. The house 
5©A controls a wide-spread trade 
»\ amongst the best classes of 
$®§|1 H\ custom, and the business is 
jMHa conducted on the most purely 

economic principles. Messrs. 
L Garrould’s has, in fact, the 
reputation of being the cheapest 
Drapery Emporium in London.” 


Bequest 
Albert Adslt OlemonS 
Aug. 24, 1938 
(Not available for exchange) 















THE LIBRARY 
OF CONGRESS 



CONTENTS. 

Introductory. 

Purely Personal.pp. 17-23 


Chapter I. 

“ AND WHAT MAY BE THE NEWS ? ” 

The News pretty much as Usual—The Pursuit of Pleasure—Reverse 
Side of the Picture—Matters like to come to the fore during the 
Season of 1891 .pp. 24-46 


Chapter II. 

“ WHERE SHALL WE STAY ? ” 

No one looks for the worst Hotel in London—Our Duty to point out 
the best—We accept that Duty and fulfil it—Prices—“The 
Gordon,” Burlington, Westminster Palace, Morley’s, Savoy, and 
other Hotels considered—Hotels of Yesterday—Hotels for those 
of Moderate Means ....... pp. 47-62 


Chapter III. 

HOUSES, “FLATS,” “CHAMBERS,” “ROOMS,” APARTMENTS, 
AND BOARD. 

How we Londoners live now—The several Classes of Residences 
described—Advice to those in search of furnished “ Flats, * 
Chambers, etc.—Apartments—Board . . . pp. 63-70 










6 


Contents. 


Chapter IV. 

LUNCHEON AND TEA: A CHAPTER FOR LADIES. 

The Substantial and the Light Luncheon—Places in London where 
Ladies may lunch—Dorothy Restaurants—Tea Resorts—Aerated- 
bread Shops—Confectioners.pp. 71-74 

Chapter V. 

41 WHERE SHALL WE DINE?” 

French Cookery—The Amphitryon Club—The leading Restaurants 
a la mode —The Table d'hote at the Northumberland Avenue 
Hotels—The Savoy—Verrey’s—Italian and German Restaurants 
—Taverns—Chop-houses.pp. 75-88 

Chapter VI. 

SOME PLACES OF FASHIONABLE OUTDOOR RESORT. 

Mrs. Delany on “The Park”—The Entrance to the London Fashionable 
World—The Park in June—Rotten Row—The Drive—Some other 
Places of Fashionable Outdoor Resort—Kensington Gardens— 
St. James’s and the Green Parks—Regent’s Park-^The Botanical 
Gardens—The “ Zoo ”.pp. 89-96 


Chapter VII. 

THE COURT: DRAWING-ROOMS, LEVIES, BALLS, AND 
RECEPTIONS. 

The Court—Drawing-rooms and Levies—The Fashion in Respect 
of these—State Balls—Dances—Garden Parties—Political Re¬ 
ceptions—Soirde of the Royal Academy—Evening Fete at 
Botanical Gardens—Strawberry Ffite at Chiswick . pp. 97-106 


Chapter VIII. 

DINNERS: ANNIVERSARY AND CEREMONIAL. 

Dinners—Anniversary and Ceremonial—May ushers in the Season 
of Dinners—Dinner of the Royal Academy—Charity Dinners— 
Grand Nights at the Temple—Regimental Dinners—A “Com¬ 
mand ” Dinner . .pp. 107-114 


Contents. 


7 


Chapter IX. 

LORDS AND COMMONS IN SESSION. 

Lords and Commons in Session—House of Commons—Regulations 
for Admission of Strangers, etc.—Daily Business—Hints to 
Strangers—House of Lords.pp. 115-121 

Chapter X. 

THE CLUBS. 

The Clubs—Not always hospitable to Strangers unless “ Distin¬ 
guished ”—In this Respect compared with some American Clubs 

pp. 122-126 


Chapter XI. 

ROYAL ITALIAN AND ENGLISH OPERA. 

Opera an Expensive Diversion—Italian Opera—The Season of 1891 
—Prices—The New Royal English Opera House . pp. 127-131 


Chapter XII. 

MUSIC. 

Concerts of the Philharmonic, and other Societies—The Popular 
Classical Concerts—The Concert Season generally—Arrangements 
for 1891.pp. 132-136 


Chapter XIII. 

THE THEATRES. 

Londoners a Theatre-going People—Hours of Opening, and Prices of 
Admission —Locale of the Chief Houses—Their Reputation in 
Particular Lines of Dramatic Work—Mr. Daly’s Comedy Company 
of New York—Payment for Programmes . . pp. 137-145 

Chapter XIV. 

MISCELLANEOUS ENTERTAINMENTS. 

German Reed’s—The Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly—Grossmith—Moore 
and Burgess Minstrels—The Crystal Palace—Tussaud’s—The 
Music-halls.' • PP- 1 46-155 



8 


Contents. 


Chapter XV. 

ART GALLERIES AND EXHIBITIONS. 

The Art Season in London—Show Sunday—The Critics’ and Pri¬ 
vate View Days at the Royal Academy—Summer and Winter 
Exhibitions—The Water-colour Societies—The New Gallery— 
Bond Street Galleries, etc.pp. 156-162 


Chapter XVI. 

THE MAY MEETINGS. 

The Business of doing Good—The Salvation Army . pp. 163-164 


Chapter XVII. 

SOME RESORTS OF THE PEOPLE. 

The People’s Palace—Toynbee Hall—Playgrounds of the People 

pp. 165-169 


Chapter XVIII. 

HINTS FOR DRIVES AND EXCURSIONS.' 

The Environs of London—Greenwich—Woolwich—Hampstead— 
Richmond—Kew—Hampton Court—Bushey Park—Windsor— 
The Crystal Palace, Sydenham—Places of Fashionable Resort 
—Hurlingham, etc.pp. 170-178 


Chapter XIX. 

SOME EVENTS OF THE SEASON. 

u The Derby ”—Ascot—Goodwood—Sandown Park—Meets of the 
Four-in-Hand and Coaching Clubs—Military Reviews—Boating 
on the Thames—The River Carnival—Henley Regatta—Pro 
cession of Boats at Eton (4th of June)—Royal Thames Yacht 
Club Races—Cricket Matches—New Wimbledon—Military Tour¬ 
nament—The June Horse Show—Athletic Sports—Farewell to 
the Season ........ pp. 179-210 



Contents. 


9 


Chapter XX. 


OUT OF TOWN. 

Cheap Railway Trips—The Country—The Tourist Season in England 
—Advice to the Reader in Connection therewith—Trips on 
Various Lines of Railway—Seaside Resorts within Easy Reach of 
London—Brighton—Margate—Westgate-on-Sea — Bournemouth 
—Some Places on the East Coast—Ways of reaching them 

pp. 2i 1-224 


Chapter XXI. 

SUNDAY IN LONDON. 

Church and Chapel—Hours of Divine Service at the chief Church of 
England, Dissenting, Roman Catholic and other Places of Worship 
—After Church.pp. 225-235 


Chapter XXII. 

THE STREETS AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 

Introductory—The Old and the New—A Proposal for Memorials to the 
Illustrious who have lived in London—Relics of Roman London— 
Mr. Harrison on London.pp. 239-244 

Chapter XXIII. 

“THE BUSTLING STRAND.” 

“ The Bustling Strand ”—Its Historical Associations—Charing Cross— 
Streets leading from the Strand north and south—The Adelphi— 
Exeter Hall—Beaufort Buildings—The Savoy—Wellington Street 
—Waterloo Bridge—Somerset House—Holywell Street—Norfolk 
Street—The Royal Courts of Justice. . . . pp. 245-251 


Chapter XXIV. 

ROUND ABOUT COVENT GARDEN. 

Round about Covent Garden—Bow Street—The old Coffee-houses— 
Russell Street—Boswell and Johnson—Covent Garden Market— 
Evans’s—The New Club—Garrick Street—Long Acre—St. Martin’s 
Lane—Leicester Square—Soho—Dryden—The Turk’s Head Club 

pp. 252-257 



10 


Contents. 


Chapter XXV. 

THROUGH FLEET STREET. 

Through Fleet Street—Temple Bar—Child’s Bank—The Temple—The 
Temple Church—Hall and Library of the Middle Temple, etc.— 
Distinguished Persons who have lived in the Temple—Chancery 
Lane—Fetter Lane—Dr. Johnson’s Residence in Fleet Street— 
H Alsatia ”—The Newspapers pp 258-265 


Chapter XXVI. 

LUDGATE CIRCUS TO ST. PAUL’S. 

Ludgate Circus—Blackfriars—The Times Office—Newgate Prison 
—Ludgate Hill—Paternoster Row—St. Paul’s Churchyard—The 
Cathedral—Its History, Monuments, etc.—Arrangements for 
Admission . . . . • . . . pp. 266-272 


Chapter XXVII. 

CHEAPSIDE TO THE BANK. 

The City—The Jurisdiction of the Lord Mayor—The City’s Government 
—The General Post Office—Christ’s Hospital—St. Bartholomew’s 
Hospital—The Guildhall—The Mansion House—The Royal Ex¬ 
change—Bank of England.pp. 273-283 


Chapter XXVIII. 

THROUGH THE CITY TO THE TOWER. 

The Tower of London—Members of the House of Commons and the 
Tower—Its History and Traditions—The Chapel of St. Peter— 
Tower Green—The Tower Warders—The Mint—Trinity House 

pp. 284-290 


Chapter XXIX. 

CORNHILL AND THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. 

Cornhill—Change Alley and “ Garraway’s ”—The Jerusalem Coffee¬ 
house—Crosby Hall—Leadenhall Street—The Ship and Turtle 
Tavern—St. Catherine Cree—Mark and Mincing Lanes 

pp. 291-293 



Contents. 


11 


Chapter XXX. 

FROM THE TOWER TO WESTMINSTER, BY WAY OF THE 
EMBANKMENT. 

Thames Street and Chaucer—Billingsgate—Cannon Street—London 
Stone—Queen Victoria Street—Heralds’ College—The Embank¬ 
ment—River Piers.pp. 294-299 


Chapter XXXI. 

WESTMINSTER: THE HALL, THE PALACE, AND 
THE ABBEY. 

The Hall, the Palace, and the Abbey—The Founder of Westminster 
Hall—Its Present State—The Houses of Parliament—Rules of 
Admission — St. Stephen’s Crypt — Westminster Abbey — The 
Monuments—The Cloisters—Westminster School pp. 300-312 


Chapter XXXII. 

PARLIAMENT STREET TO PALL MALL. 

The Government Offices, Whitehall—The Chapel Royal—The Cere¬ 
mony of the Royal Maundy—Scotland Yard—Cockspur Street— 
Trafalgar Square—The National Gallery—The Haymarket—Pall 
Mall and the Clubs.pp. 313-320 


Chapter XXXIII. 

REGENT STREET AND PICCADILLY. 

The Most Important West End Thoroughfares—The Latest Fashions— 
St. James’s Hall—The Albany—Burlington House—White Horse 
Cellar—The Coaches—Mansions facing on Piccadilly 

pp. 321-327 


Chapter XXXIV. 

FROM ST. JAMES’S, BY WAY OF BOND STREET, TO 
OXFORD STREET. 

From St. James’s by way of Bond Street to Oxford Street—St. 
James’s Palace—St. James’s Street—The Aristocratic Quarter— 
Bond Street and its Shops.pp. 328-331 


12 


Contents . 


Chapter XXXV. 

FROM THE MARBLE ARCH, THROUGH OXFORD STREET, 
TO HOLBORN. 

From the Marble Arch through Oxford Street to Holborn—Oxford 
Street—Soho Square—Tottenham Court Road—Bloomsbury 
—The British Museum—Lincoln’s Inn—The Soane Museum— 
College of Surgeons—Gray’s Inn—Holborn . pp. 332-340 


Chapter XXXVI. 

MUSEUMS, EXHIBITIONS, PICTURE GALLERIES, ETC., 
OPEN FREE TO THE PUBLIC. 

Museums, Exhibitions, etc., open Free to the Public—Military Barracks 
in London—Prisons, etc.pp. 341-344 


Chapter XXXVII. 

LIBRARIES AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 

Libraries of Reference—Art Library at South Kensington—British 
Museum Reading-room, etc.—Hospitals and Charitable Institu¬ 
tions ......... pp. 345-34** 


Introductory 


THE SHOPS. 


PP- 353-356 


Chapter XXXVIII. 

A Little Lecture before Shopping.pp. 357-363 


Chapter XXXIX. 

THE FASHIONABLE FIRMS. 

Fashion and the Fashionable Firms—Where may Fashion be found ? 
—The Temples of Fashion—Lewis & Allenby,—Redmayne’s— 
Marshall & Snelgrove—Debenham & Freebody—Garrould’s— 
Jay’s—The International Fur Store—Shawls—Jewellery—Lead¬ 
ing Dressmakers—Millinery—Redfern of Conduit Street—Liberty 
—Royal School of Art Needlework, etc. . . . pp. 367-386 





Contents. 


13 


Chapter XL. 

SHOPS FOR GENTLEMEN. 

The Schools of London Fashion—The great Tailors—The Bootmakers, 
Hosiers, etc.—Other Noteworthy Shops for Gentlemen 

PP- 391-399 


Chapter XLI. 

SOME OTHER SHOPS OF NOTE. 

Some Notes on Furniture—Tottenham Court Road—Old Furniture— 
Ward our Street—Liberty & Co. of Regent Street and their 
Oriental Warehouse—Bric-a-Brac Dealers—The Picture Dealers 
—The Printsellers—London Stereoscopic Company pp. 403-410 


Chapter XLII. 

THE STORES. 

Their Origin and Present Popularity—In what most successful, as 
Traders—Not now in Competition with leading West End Firms 

pp. 411-415 


Chapter XLIII. 

FACILITIES OF TRANSIT IN LONDON. 

Metropolitan and District Railroads—Cabs and Cabmen—Omnibuses 
—Tramways—River Steamboats—Commissionaires pp. 416-420 


DEBENHAM AND FREEBODY 

Invite an Inspection of their Novelties and Specialities in 

COURT DRESSES AND TRAINS, 
PRESENTATION DRESSES, 
BALL, EVENING, & VISITING DRESSES, 

COSTUMES. 

TAILOR-MADE JACKETS & GOWNS, 
TEA GOWNS, DRESSING GOWNS, 
MANTLES, MILLINERY, 

AND 

WEDDING TROUSSEAUX. 


SPECIAL DESIGNS IN 

NATIONAL, HISTORICAL, and FANCY COSTUMES 
FOR TABLEAUX, THEATRICALS, 

FANCY BALLS. 

DEBENHAM & FREEBODY, 

Wigmore Street & Welbeck Street, 

LONDON, W. 


NOTE TO THE SEVENTH EDITION. 


HE earlier, and some other, Chapters in this book 



X are re-written and re-illustrated yearly. The re¬ 
mainder are revised, and, as far as possible, brought down 
to date, and new Illustrations are added wherever it is 
judged appropriate. In some particulars, then, this Hand¬ 
book differs, I believe, from the majority of such books 
published. 

There is scarce any matter touched upon in its pages 
that I have not been at some pains to make myself 
acquainted with ; and in respect of the Hotels, Restaurants, 
Entertainments, Amusements, Shops and the like inci¬ 
dentally referred to herein, there is hardly one named, 
where, in the course of my work, I have not occasionally 
visited, or partaken of a meal in, or which I have not 
attended, or made one of an audience at, or where I have 
not been, from time to time, courteously welcomed. 

This Handbook, then, of London of To-Day is, in some 
sort, a record of my own personal experiences, yearly re¬ 
viewed, altered, or amended, and offered for the accept¬ 
ance of those unfamiliar with our great City who may 
care to turn them to account. 


CHARLES EYRE PASCOE. 


London : March ist , 1891. 


















% 


PURELY PERSONAL. 


'T'HACKERAY in one of his 
Roundabout Papers (would 
that some one might give us that 
kind of paper now), lays bare some 
of the thorns that pierced through 
the editorial cushion. Finding the 
crop nowise diminishing as time 
went on, he finally kicked over 
both cushion and chair, packed up 
his writing traps, and went back 
to his own library at Kensington, 
there to occupy himself with what, 
alas, presently proved to be the 
last of his novels. 

The editorial chair is never an 
easy one. Unlike most chairs it becomes less easy by wear. 
You seldom get a cushion to fit it exactly: and sufficiently 
stuffed as that cushion may be, with, let's say, swan’s-down, 
or wool, bristles or such-like irritating things will contrive to 
get in, and sometimes to work through so as to deprive a man 
of his comfort. 

Our own editorial chair is not, we admit, a very big one 
Possibly that’s one reason why it is never too comfortable. 
When, each succeeding year, about the month of January, we 
draw it up to the desk, we shift about in it uneasily, toss out the 
cushion that looks so inviting when lying on the sofa, pick it up 



2 



18 London of To-Day . 

again, work it about, and readjust it for present use, and finally 
get settled down with what ease we may, and turn to and 
sort out our papers: scraps, notes, letters and memoranda the 
accumulations of the past twelve months. Hardly have we got 
to work upon these, than the bristles begin to work through : 
some sharp-pointed as a needle, others blunt like a quill, a very 
considerable proportion irritating and uncomfortable. 

First we take up a bundle of what are commonly known as 
“ Press Notices,” which unfledged authors are so eager for: 
clippings from the journals, the Editors of which have done us 
the honour to appoint an eye to glance over our last year’s book. 
These chiefly comprise a few lines of type-matter, stuck to a 
flimsy scrap of paper, suggestive of the bill-heading of a “ dun,” 
and duly forwarded to us by our Publishers. 

Here’s a specimen: 

“London of To-Day, by C. E. Pascoe (London: Simpkin, 
Marshall & Co., 8vo, pp. 414) is an illustrated handbook written 
up to date. The blunders in it are numerous and grotesque. 
Mrs. Lynn Linton’s special subject is ladies’ dress ; one of the 
principal cricket matches of the season is that between the Bar 
and the Army; within the memory of ‘many people’ the jockeys 
at Ascot rode in silk stockings and shoes with buckles. But 
American visitors, for whom the handbook seems to be chiefly 
designed, do not want pedantic accuracy, and Mr. Pascoe’s book 
may be safely recommended to them. It is written in a lively 
and entertaining style, and the illustrations are very spirited. 
Mr. Pascoe undertakes the dangerous task of advising about 
tradespeople and hotels. As far as we can judge, his advice is 
judicious, but the precedent is a bad one.” 

Now that’s what may be termed the sharp-pointed specimen. 
Whew, how it pricks! It comes all the way from Manchester. 
What shall we do with it: crumple it up and toss it into the 
fire ? Is it worth dissecting ? Surely, no. But all the same, ass 
enough we, that do not know, after forty years living in London, 
twenty years of which have been occupied in various lines of 


Purely Personal, 19 

work for editors and publishers, the particular reputation ol 
Mrs. Lynn Lynton. 

Messieurs from America, you don’t want pedantic accuracy, 
and therefore our Handbook “ may be safely recommended ” to 
you. That’s a stinger for you: one for our heels, two for your 
nob, so to say. As for the silk-stockinged jockeys of Ascot 
Heath, grim Death has at last ridden ’ away with them; and 
breeches and buckles lie under the dust-heap. Requiescant 
in pace. 

“ Mr. Pascoe undertakes the dangerous task of advising about 
tradespeople and hotels.” A bad precedent, quotha ! In what 
respect, good Critic ? In the way of suggesting a good hotel, 
a first-rate French dinner, and a superfine suit of the very best 
cut, to our friendly acquaintance, the Reader ? Alack-a-day, 
Stranger in London of To-Day, and ye took me not in, albeit 
duly paid, the advertised price of your Handbook! Nay, let’s 
be accurate : but one half only as we protest; twenty-five per 
cent, by way of discount to the public ; twenty-five per cent, for 
distribution to the trade. But are there no bad hotels, nasty 
dinners, and indifferent tailors in London ? Seek an answer 
elsewhere. Our little work in crown octavo never professed to 
compete with the advertising sheet of a newspaper. That 
admits every class of advertisement; our book publishes but 
a few. So much to the advantage of the purchaser. 

Well, and what next ? 

“ My dear Sir,—You have given great offence to our people 
by a very tame account of their place, and a denunciation of 
what I am bound to say is the very best thing of its kind done 
in London. You must not look for further support from us. 
We can no longer subscribe for your Handbook. — Yours 
faithfully,” etc. 

Bang goes two shillings along with the prickly thorn out of 
the editorial cushion. 

And next ? 

“ Mr. Editor,—You have omitted all mentio'n of the meetings 


20 


London of To-Day. 

places of the Salvation Army in your reference to the 
Churches of London. This betrays your bigotry. What has 
the 'Poet at the Breakfast Table’ to do with questions ol 
faith ? You might as well quote ‘ In Memoriam.’—Yours, Anti- 
Humbug.” 

“ Dear Pascoe,—Have you seen London City as it is To-Day ? 
Strike out the words ‘ City as it is,’ and insert ‘ of,’ and you 
have London of To-Day, which, as you know, is your very 
own title. Why not go for the publishers ? Splendid advertise¬ 
ment ! By the way, a man told me the other day that the idea 
of your book was ‘ prigged ’ from some one’s else. Of course 
I told him he was mistaken. But was it ? There’s an error 
on Page 16. It is not strictly grammatical to use ‘that’ for 
* who.’ Good-bye. Look me up.—Thine,” etc. 

And what more ? 

“ Sir,—It is scandalous that you should so persistently adver¬ 
tise the Gordon and other hotels of that class, when there are so 
many smaller and equally good in London. If you like to come 
and see mine, you may have a bed-room free, and I will only 
charge you for your meals. If I thought that it was of any advan¬ 
tage to advertise, I should go into London of To-Day, for you 
are certainly enterprising. But business unfortunately is not 
what it was.—Yours truly, etc. 

“ P.S.—If you could manage an Illustration it might be of 
service.” 


Hullo, what’s this? Over we go. Yoicks, for’ard, lad! Now 
for it. Clean jumped, by Jove! and over into the next field. 
Capital! Positively a Leading Article. One column and a half 
as I’m a true man, and next the Political Leader too. Well, 
everything comes to him that waits. Eighteen long years have 
we been waiting for this. The Daily News , by all that’s honest, 
fair-spoken, and Liberal. The writer, whoever he may be, has 
earned our lasting gratitude. Sentiment ? Sentiment be blowed ! 


Purely Personal. 


21 



The literary life is chock-full of it. The man who derides senti¬ 
ment is a fool. It was a wise and witty citizen of the world wh 
said that all good actions spring from the heart. When a writer 
beckoned away by many more pressing claims, steps aside to do 
a kindly act, in encouragement of a wandering fellow-worker, he 
is entitled to that man’s gratitude. And ours he has if he will 
accept it, if only for his impartial and generous consideration of 
our case. 

What an advertisement! But isn’t it a “bad precedent” for 
a great daily paper to advise upon the merits of a handbook ? 
What would the Editor of the Daily News say, think you, were 
we to tell him that we had been a dozen times asked, “Who 
is the writer, and how did you contrive to get the article pub¬ 
lished ? ” How did we, indeed ! 

Shall we quote? Why not present such unsolicited testi¬ 
monials to the Reader as are in our possession ? 


“over we go.” 


22 


London of To-Day. 

“To read him” [that’s ourself, and good luck to us] “in the 
earlier chapters .... is to have a lively image of the extent and 
variety af our social life of to-day. This book is a bird’s-eye 
view of London, as it lives from hour to hour; and what a view! 
If it were presented in simultaneous picture—in the concurrent 
events of the different worlds of work and play, suffering and 
joy—we should have a work of art. Such as it, it is a most 
extraordinary thing.” Thus the Daily News. 

And here’s a neat little note, written in violet ink, enclosed in 
a neat little envelope, on the flap of which we discern very neatly 
engraved a miniature map of the world. Another encouraging 
pat on the shoulder from a friendly hand: that of an old 
Professor in the Schools, whose knowledge of London and of 
the various topics touched upon in this book is intimate and 
exact. None of his profession indeed more apt than he, and few 
more kindly—at all events in our experience. “ The book ought 
to do,” writes he, “ for even between ourselves the two augurs ” 
[that’s classically encouraging] “it is the best of its class out.” 
Flattering. Hope on, hope ever, and yet hoping let’s strive our 
best to make it so. 

Another letter we bring to the surface: written in a good bold 
hand with a broad-nibbed pen. This, too, is an unsolicited 
testimonial. 

“ I must congratulate you on the excellence of your new issue 
of London of To-Day, of which I have bought two copies 
already, and will show it to all callers at my house. May the 
sale be worthy of its merits ! I do not write as a critic, or as 
approving of every word; but on the whole you have managed 
well to make the book interesting to all, without giving offence 
to any. About ‘Sunday’ for example you have been skilful 
in what you say.—Yours truly,” etc. That letter carries the 
signature and address of one of the ablest and most respected 
editors in London. 

From the foregoing examples from our collection of last year’s 
notes and memoranda, the Reader will see, that in this business 


Purely Personal. 23 

of book-making, in order to bring the generality of admirers to 
our side, it is sufficient to attempt pleasing a few. 

A story is told of a Painter who, having exhausted all his skill 
upon a picture, placed it in the market-place and invited all the 
spectators to denote with a brush all that seemed amiss in it. 
The spectators drew near and in general applauded; but each 
willing to show his talent at criticism, stigmatized whatever he 
thought proper. At evening when the Painter came to carry his 
picture home, he found hardly a square inch free from blots. 
Not satisfied with this plan, he besought the spectators the next 
day, to mark on the picture whatever they thought worthy of 
praise. He later came to find his picture covered with marks of 
approval. Every stroke yesterday condemned was to-day ap¬ 
plauded. “ Well,” says the Painter, “ I now know that the best 
way to please all is by attempting to please half.” 

To attempt to please everyone, is to enter upon a task that 
can never be perfected, yea, even though it were dragged through 
the centuries and finally finished at the crack of Doom. It is 
amply sufficient for us that we have such gratifying evidence of 
having satisfied so many. 

“ Lor’ bless you, sir 1 ” cried Mr. Mark Tapley, when young 
Mr. Martin Chuzzlewit was bent upon comparing the splendid 
and enthusiastic reception publicly accorded Mr. Pecksniff, as 
appointed architect of the grammar-school of Mr. Chuzzlewit’s 
designing, with that gentleman’s own impecunious and forlorn 
situation : “ Lor’ bless you, sir! What’s the use ? Some archi¬ 
tects are clever at making foundations; and some architects are 
clever at building on ’em when they’re made. But it’ll all come 
right in the end, sir; it’ll all come right in the end.” 

“ But in the meantime-” 

“ In the meantime, as you say, sir, we have a deal to do, and. 
far to go. So sharp’s the word, and Jolly! ” 




T HE news ?—Pretty much as usual. Political encomium, 
political invective : the more political history changes the 
more it's the same thing (the paradox not ours, but another’s)— 
the Prince here, there, and everywhere working like a horse—the 
Princess charming, and amiable as ever—Stuffed-clothes-suit 
Society much occupied as heretofore in playing the fool— 
Grievances of this" person and that, goose-cackle greatly pre¬ 
vailing—Of Divorce-, and police-court garbage more than suffi¬ 
cient—Strikes, strikes, strikes, word-worry and the flaunting of 
banners—Of charity not too much—Of ill-deeds and suffering not 
a little—Some strivings after right, and records of duty nobly done, 
well worthy to be commemorated—Four pages of closely-printed 
columns, eight to the page, inviting to Profit or Pleasure. History 
for ever repeating itself. In truth there is little new to chronicle. 


Chapter I. 

“AND WHAT MAY BE THE NEWS?' 


“And what may be the News?” 


25 


One London year is for the most part but as another London 
year. We have, by way of beginning, the common incidents 
of the periodic whirlwind of the London Season ; its inevitable 
festivities, gyrating with swiftest circumvolution through the 
briefest space of time. In the one direction sumptuous display, 
luxurious living, and the ceaseless pursuit of Pleasure, by some 
even so far as the very verge of the precipice. “Society” is as 
“ Society ” always was. 

May we forecast the Future by the Past? What say the 
journals of the London Season of 1890? “ We have had,” writes 
one (dating in July of last year), “a continuous succession of 
entertainments since April. Money has been freely spent, and 
the elaboration of Balls, Dinners, and Concerts has reached a 
pitch of extravagance that cannot be considered a healthy sign. 
Competition in the matter of expenditure will always be with us, 
but in recent Seasons it has been confined within certain bounds, 
which this present one” [of 1890] “ has seen o’erleaped. Fortunes 
have been spent in floral decorations alone. At a Ball given 
by a wealthy commoner a large room was festooned all round 
with orchids and stephanotis, which cost almost a fabulous sum. 
Ostentation, even when displayed in flowers, becomes vulgar.” 

“ The menus of the dinners and suppers of the last few 
weeks” [we quote from a London daily paper of July] “have 
exhibited an ever-ascending scale of extravagant outlay upon 
delicacies and luxuries whose principal charm has apparently 
been their costliness and the difficulty of procuring them. The 
rarest of meats and wines have been found at tables from which 
they have till now been absent. Competition with greater wealth 
has brought them there, and a period of severe retrenchment will 
shortly follow upon the senseless display that has characterized 
a great number of recent entertainments. 

“ As giving some idea of the cost of floral decorations, it may 
be mentioned that a dinner-table decorated with buttercups, 
daisies, and meadow grasses cost fifty pounds for the flowers 
and their arrangement. The simple rule of three will give the 


26 


London of To-Day. 



approximate charges for those repasts where rare exotics take 
the place of blooms that cost nothing but the gathering. At a 
Ball given by two young men the flowers alone cost 1,000/. 
Presents in the Cotillon are another costly item of the modern 
dance. In dress an equal extravagance has reigned, and many 
a hardworked modiste , now almost prostrated by the incessant 
labours of a busy season, will be obliged to accept a few shillings in 
the pound from debtors whose competitive social ambitions have 
run beyond discretion and led straight to the Bankruptcy Court. 
Florists and caterers will have to suffer in the same way.” 

Thus an observant onlooker in London of To-Day, of the year 
of grace 1890. 

In the other direction, the while some of us are jigging it (as 

perhaps is preferable) to the 
sound of harp and fiddle, and 
“ listening to the k twang-twang 
of the melodious catgut,” the usual 
evidences of social discontent are 
to be noted. Copartnerships in 
protest from this side and from 
that. Loud-mouthed preachments 
of Liberty, Humanity and Justice. 
Labour strikes and labour strikes, 
Parliamentary wranglings, week in 
and week out, such as some of us 
think never before were. Scenes, 
interludes and incidents, Irish Party 
playing mostly to the gallery; and 
precious little work of any account, as 
would seem, sessionally perfected at West¬ 
minster. 1 Bubblings-up of too-eflervescent 
socialism democracy, and so on. Disquiet 
and racket interminable. All seemingly 
disjointed and fragmentary in London, and threatening to tumble 
to pieces. 





u And what may be the News?" 


2 7 


Nevertheless, still works on as heretofore the stupendous 
machinery, a marvel to most of us, and ^vith no signs of any 
serious breakdown. A little patching-up occasionally ; a replace¬ 
ment of old and worn-out parts by others of newer and sounder 
construction ;'a good deal of overhauling, and oiling, and rubbing- 
down ; together with constant oversight of the whole on the part 
of Imperial Legislature, un-Imperial County Council, Right 
Honourable Lord Mayordom, Board of this, Committee of that, 
Commissioners of the other ; and on, on it works, round and 
round it goes, with jumble and with jangle ; but yet with fair 
precision, stroke upon stroke and not unsatisfactorily, having 
regard to the enormous strain it not seldom has to bear and the 
number of those not unwilling, perhaps, to tamper with it, did the 
opportunity serve. 

Thus, London of To-Day as it appears to us, casting an eye 
hurriedly hither and thither in the opening weeks of 1891. 

But a citizen of the world, Goldsmith by name, man of letters 
whose speech, long since uttered, is happily still conserved to us 
and to whose books we occasionally refer, and always with 
pleasure and profit, pulls us up smartly, while indulging in this 
strain. He is for letting idle declaimers (of whom we protest we 
are not one) mourn the degeneracy of the age. For his part he 
believed that all ages are much the same. Of this he was con¬ 
vinced, that Man in every season, not excluding, doubtless, those 
brighter periods of his own, when he, one of the Johnson-Garrick- 
Burke coterie, at the hospitable table of Sir Joshua Reynolds in 
Leicester Fields in the London Season of his day (you may yet 
see the house on the west side of Leicester Square)—he was 
convinced, he says, that. Man in every age is a poor fretful being, 
with no other means to escape the calamities of the hour , but by 
endeavouring to forget them. 

Quite so, and to the point. Herein the shrewdly discerning 
may discover the very raison d'etre of this Annual: a sort of 
Students’ Guide to the Art of Forgetting—the pleasant Art of 
Forgetting for a brief period in London. If here and there a 


28 London of To-Day. 

little sober reflection be imported into its pages, it is no more 
than is necessary to keep the balance between frivolity and seri¬ 
ousness. And mark, friendly Reader, that our Guide has reference 
only to a season, a brief holiday, a respite from work. We can 
no more be always facing about and dodging the calamities of the 
hour, than we can be for ever playing hide and seek with Fate. 
To do the one were cowardice, to do the other is impossible. 

To know what’s 
doing, to learn 
what is toward (the 
phrase Carlylean), 
is an object with 
most people at 
work or at play. 
Let us then, so far 
as we herein can, 
help to discover 
what's doing in 
London of To-Day. 

It is probable 
that this summer 
the Imperial Insti¬ 
tute will be opened 
to the public. All 
things well, no 
doubt with due 
parade and trum¬ 
pet-flourishing : 
Royalty in the 
foreground, and 
distinguished per¬ 
sonages in every degree grouped around. We toss up our cap in 
anticipation, and cry, “ Hurrah for Imperial and Colonial Federa¬ 
tion ! ” It is but a dream ; but it is a dream worth dreaming, for 
all that: and we wish the scheme heartily well, for the honour 












11 And what may be the News?” 


29 


and welfare of all concerned in the “ Old Country,” which has 
borne itself bravely in many a tussle for the welfare of India and 
the Colonies, albeit not without slips and wranglings. 

This Imperial Institute is intended not only as an abiding and 
useful remembrance of the reign of Queen Victoria, but an 
educational institute in the best sense, and of imperial scope. 
Situated midway down Exhibition Road, in the now interminable 
region of South Kensington (we remember it without the essential 
prefix—all rural, and old-fashioned : Kensington, in fact, the old 
Court suburb), and facing a new bisecting thoroughfare called 
Imperial Institute Road, the buildings are erected. The Imperial 
Institute Road is to be a wide avenue, with triple row of trees, 
one on either side of the two carriage-ways, and one along a 
central footwalk dividing the drives. At each wing of the facade 
is to be a colonnade after the manner of St. Peter’s at Rome; 
and in the rear of the main building there will be arcades, 
galleries, lawns and parterres. The Reception-hall is con¬ 
ceived on a grand scale of magnificence. Conference-halls, 
Reading-rooms, Reference-libraries, Laboratories, Galleries for 
specimens of articles used in manufacture, and economic pro¬ 
ductions, and much besides are duly taken account of in the 
conception of this Institute for the purposes for which it has 
been designed. 

As this annual publication happily finds its way into the hands 
of Colonials homeward bound, for a brief holiday in the Old 
Country, it may be useful if we recapitulate the main objects of 
this Imperial Institute, as set forth by its governing body. It is 
intended to assist in— 

“1. The formation and exhibition of Collections representing 
the important raw materials and manufactured products of the 
Empire and of other Countries, so maintained as to illustrate 
the development of Agricultural, Commercial and Industrial 
progress in the Empire, and the comparative advances made in 
other Countries. 

“ 2. The establishment or promotion of Commercial Museums, 


30 London of To-Day. 

Sample-rooms and Intelligence-offices, in London and other 
parts of the Empire. 

“ 3. The collection and dissemination of such information re¬ 
lating to Trades and Industries, to Emigration, and to the other 
purposes of the charter as may be of use to the subjects of the 
Empire. 

“ 4. The advancement of Trades and Handicrafts by exhibitions 
of special branches of Industry and Commerce, and of the work 
of artisans and of apprentices. 

“ 5. The promotion of Technical and Commercial Education 
and of the Industrial Arts and Sciences. 

“6. The furtherance of systematic Colonization. 



RECEPTION HALL, IMPERIAL INSTITUTE. 














































“And what may be the News?” 


31 


“ 7 - The promotion of Conferences and Lectures in connection 
with the general work of the Institute, and the facilitating of 
commercial and friendly Intercourse among the inhabitants of the 
different parts of the British Empire. 

“ 8 - Tlie doing anything incidental or conducive to carrying into 
effect all or any of the foregoing purposes.” 

A well-thought-out, and far-reaching scheme, worthy of the 
best attention and support of the Anglo-Saxon race throughout 
the world. Let us hope its aims may tend to further the cause 
of universal brotherhood and to raise the prestige of our Mother¬ 
land as ever leading and aiding in the work of civilization. 

The building of the Royal College of Music goes on apace in 
the one-time suburban Kensington Gore (“ a triangular piece of 
land,” explains the dictionary), hard-by the Royal Albert Hall; 
,£45,000 having been given toward the purpose by Mr. Samson 
Fox of Leeds engineering fame. And so, we are “going in” 
heart and soul for Music among our numerous other educational 
accomplishments; and all becoming musically accomplished 
what then ? 

In the way of other Public Edifices completed during the past 
year, we may note the new Police Head-Quarters on the Thames 
Embankment nearest Westminster; and Mr. Pearson’s work in 
connection with the restoration of the Norman west side of 
Westminster Hall. That which he undertook was the rebuilding 
of the buttresses of Richard II., the restoration of the Norman 
west side of the Hall, the erection of a cloister protecting this 
wall, and the substitution of new masonry for Sir Robert Smirke’s 
casing which had become dilapidated. All has been done in 
character with the work of Richard II., which has survived all 
disasters down to the present time. 

It is with a sense of relief we chronicle no further additions 
to the “ Grand” Hotels of London this year. 

If Rumour of the many tongues may be believed, H.I.M. the 
German Emperor has thoughts of again visiting England this 
year, and possibly partaking of the pleasures of a London Season 


32 


London of To-Day . 

by appearing in the Metropolis—a visit which is to extend to two 
peoples friendly understanding already secured between two 
Cabinets and two Courts. If only the President of the French 
Republic might be persuaded hither at the same season what a 
“ high old time ” we might have ! 

Then, all that we should need to keep things “ booming ” would 
be a slight infusion of McKinley Tariff men in early August. 
Mr. Blaine already knows us. So indeed do we know Mr. Blaine. 
And we have a fair number of Americans of all ranks, politics 
and creeds with us, off and on, all through the summer. But we 
want to persuade Mr. McKinley and his set. Is no one public- 
spirited enough to issue an invitation to Mr. McKinley ? The 
dinners of the Season lubricate business. What a deal might be 
done—might have been done—by a Grand National, Chamber of 
Commerce Reception, Dinner and Ball, “ tendered ” Mr. McKinley 
at the Whitehall Rooms. Conduit Street alone might be trusted 
to subscribe ioo guineas for such a purpose. 

This is the year of the Handel Triennial Festival at the 
Crystal Palace, Sydenham. The full “public rehearsal” (at 
which will be performed the principal choruses in “ Messiah ” 
and “Elijah,” and other works) will take place on Friday, 
June 19th. The festival proper will begin with a performance 
of the “Messiah” on June 22nd, followed, on June 24th, by a 
“ Selection ” from Handel’s religious and secular compositions, 
in which Mr. Manns, the conductor, proposes to include many 
items of interest. The festival will, as usual, conclude with 
“Israel in Egypt,” on June 26th. 

The Boston (U. S. A.) Musical Jubilee was a big thing in its 
way; but the Jubilee of the Tonic Solfa System at the Crystal 
Palace this summer promises to be the bigger. A monster 
gathering of 15,000 vocalists, practising this method, is proposed. 
So gigantic a choir could not, of course, find accommodation 
even on the Handel Orchestra, and the whole vocal force will 
therefore be divided into three parts—5,000 juveniles giving a 
concert early in the day, 5,000 provincial Tonic Solfaists another 






































































































































































































































































































































































ft 

















34 


London of To-Day. 

well understood, will have ere long a London theatre of their 
own. A similar intention is attributed to other well-known 
actors and actresses.” Thus a well-informed authority of the 
stalls. 

Beautiful, and in many respects unique, is the English Opera 
House—a good deed, suggests the Daily News , “ in the 
naughty world of jerry-builders and draughtsmen, with their 
mindless twiddlings in stone and brick. At the junction of 
Shaftesbury Avenue and Charing Cross Road, with their model 
barracks, and their new and more or less garish shops and 
‘ residential flats,’ the theatre stands in bad company. Still, the 
citizen of Cockayne, as he passes by, may derive some profit 
from looking upon this picture and upon that. Besides, bad 
company is suggested only in the architectural sense. For 
though those vast artisans’ blocks are not architecture, they 
fairly satisfy the first and last commandment of all honest 
building business—that a house is a place to live in ; for which 
reason it must have liberal space, air and light.” The new 
theatre is of red brick and terra-cotta, and, besides being 
exteriorily the handsomest, is one of the safest, in London. 
Mr. Collcutt is the architect. 

The “ cheap prices ” in which Mr. Wilson Barrett puts faith 
at the new Olympic are substantially a return to the old prices 
which prevailed at the West End theatres before the recent 
great revival of public interest in the stage. This indirectly 
led managers to curtail the accommodation of the Pit, and 
increase that of the Stalls. No doubt they were driven to do so 
chiefly by reason of the greatly increased salaries demanded 
by leading members of their companies. The profits of the 
ever-popular Pit alone were not sufficient to meet such in¬ 
creasing expenses. How Mr. Wilson Barrett proposes to meet 
this difficulty time will show. At all events he has the old 
Play-goers on his side. 

Mr. Daly’s Comedy Company will perform at the Lyceum 
Theatre during September, October and November. Last year’s 


“And what may be the News?” 



visit was memorable for the success achieved by Miss Ada Rehan 
as Rosalind in As You Like It —the most finished and delightful 
performance of the part ever presented on the English stage. 

Mr. Daly laboured 
under the serious 
disadvantage of oc¬ 
cupying a London 
theatre at a period 
when most London¬ 
ers, exhausted with 
the unceasing festi¬ 
vities of the Season, 
were packing up their 
traps and going off 
for the holidays. 
Such a representa¬ 
tion of Shakespeare’s 
charming Comedy as 
was given by his com¬ 
pany towards the end 
of July last year, if 
miss ada rehan. ante-dated six weeks 

(supposing that had been possible), would certainly have drawn 
all London. Successful as Mr. Daly is in London, he will become 
more so, we think, by entering into the common competition, as 
he does this year, in the usual theatre-season; and, possibly, by 
giving us fewer changes of programme, the slow-to-move-public 
more time to. learn what he is performing ; and less, perhaps, of 
the somewhat exaggerated farcical element of American life, 
which, truth to say, few untravelled English seem to appreciate. 
Not all of us are versed in American ways. Such personages, 
for example, as one finds moving around in that admirable piece 
of provincial Massachusetts fiction, Cafie Cod Folks , are as 
strange to Englishmen as to Tierra del Fuegans. 

Among other trivialities of the London Season, the pretty 


36 London of To-Day. 

business of ladies’ afternoon and evening tea-drinking on the 
House of Commons Terrace, threatens in the future to assume 
inconvenient proportions. It is curious to contemplate this July 
incident of Parliamentary life, and the possible manceuvrings of 
not a few in the direct and remote female line, to be made 
parties to it. “Strange to say,” writes Mr. Harry Furniss, first 
babbler of this business, “ strange to say, many members never 
knew these pleasant gatherings on the terrace existed until I 
treated it pictorially, and many wives did not either. Perhaps 
for artistic effect I made the ladies most numerous, and younger 
than they probably were, but I know some country members’ 
wives came to town and took a more personal interest in 
the House of Commons, and were certain to visit the terrace 
at moonlight.” Naturally, or why be wife to a member of 
Parliament ? 

The Queen last season of her summer stay at Windsor Castle, 
for the first time in twenty years, “ commanded ” a military band 
to play on the parterre of the East Terrace on Sunday after¬ 
noons, from four till six o’clock. Her Majesty, with her usual 
kindness, granted privilege of admission to the public, and some 
thousands of people availed themselves of this innocent pleasure 
of listening to good music on the Sabbath. 

Thus, happily, we progress in the “ Humanities.” The bands 
of the National Sunday League gave their customary concerts of 
instrumental music in Regent’s, Finsbury, Victoria, Southwark 
and Greenwich, Parks, and on Hampstead Heath. The League 
in 1890 increased the number of its Sunday bands from three to 
six. The music provided has been appreciated by audiences which 
have amounted in the aggregate, to some i$o t ooo persons each 
Sunday. The League has generously expended a considerable 
amount of money in carrying on this work. The Treasurer’s ad¬ 
dress is Dartmouth Chambers, 8, Theobald’s Road, Holborn.W.C.; 
and we venture to express a hope that readers of this book may 
be disposed, by a timely contribution to his funds, to further this 
important addition to the wholesome recreations of the people. 


“And what may be the News?” 


37 


Noting such matters worthy enough to be recorded, reminds 
us that the Duke of Westminster, as usual, opened his splendid 
gallery of Pictures at Grosvenor House, on Sunday afternoons in 
August, to Londoners who otherwise might find no opportunity 
of enjoying them. 

And we note, too, that the Art Gallery in South London is also 
opened on the one day of the week when it is most likely to 
effect the most good. We are told that many very poor people of 
the neighbourhood, of itself very poor, visit this Gallery on Sunday 
evening after Church, and that children from Sunday School 
ramble in during the afternoon. That is a habit which cannot be 
too earnestly encouraged among poor and hard-worked Londoners. 

Pertinently spoke up Mr. Henry Irving at a meeting held 
last year in furtherance of the objects of this South London 
Art Gallery : “It seems to me an unfortunate survival of a very 
narrow theory of life, that Sunday should be regarded as a day 
when it is contrary to religion to receive impressions from Nature 



38 London of To-Day . 

herself, or from Nature as represented on canvas. I know it is 
gravely asserted that because a handful of people have to be on 
duty in an Art Gallery, it is sacrilegious to give an enormous 
majority the satisfaction of seeing the pictures. But I have 
always regarded that plea as a pious subterfuge. Your thorough¬ 
going Sabbatarian is not above a little sophistry, which he fondly 
supposes hides his real belief that it is an affront to the Creator 
to admire the handiwork of Nature or Art on Sunday. I think we 
have a much better and a much more rational system than that of 
dooming the inhabitants of South London to discover what beauty 
they can at the street corners on their only holiday. In this re¬ 
spect I must remind you, and I do it with a feeling of regret, that 
many cities in Great Britain are very far ahead X)f the Metropolis.’* 
But we are progressing in London in this and other matters; 
and, with God’s help, are ridding ourselves of some of the 
narrow-minded bigotry which would make Sunday a day of 
dreary penance instead of a day of healthful rest. Let all our 
days be Sundays, as far as the practice of religion goes, and let 
each of us think upon his duty to his neighbour. And who is 
our neighbour ? Even these joyless, unceasing week-day workers 
of the Fog Babylon, these are our neighbours. 

That they need our help, not supinely, but truly and actively, 
most of us who will bestow a moment’s thought upon their case 
full well know. “There is not,” said Cardinal Manning at the 
Mansion House last year, “to be found in the whole world a 
more homeless* a more joyless, people than half the population 
of London.” He ascribed that chiefly to the enormous oppression 
which toil and labour, poverty and starvation, inflicted upon the 
workers and labourers of our people. 

For the sunlit world Mayfair, it makes little account of extra¬ 
neous neighbours. Each finds fellowship with himself. One 

comes, one goes: 

“ And this the burden of his song 
For ever used to be— 

‘ I care for nobody, no, not I, 

If no one cares for me.’ ” 


“And what may be the News?” 


39 



As each recurring London Season (season of the full-blaze 
Sun-god) sees fresh innovations in the little fashionable eccen¬ 
tricities that so soon gain ground, it may be hoped it will not be 
long before the prevailing method of not introducing guests to 
each other, will be decreed bad taste. At present a hostess, 
after shaking hands and perhaps asking some trivial question, 
the answer to which she has no time to hear, passes on to the 

next arrival, and troubles 
her head no more about 
interposing claims upon 
her notice. “ It is a curious 
fact,” remarks a 
philosopher, 
“that though in 
a lady’s drawing¬ 
room all present 
are presumed to 
be on an equal 
footing, yet no 
young man will 
dream ot speak¬ 
ing to, or asking 
any girl to dance, 
unless formally 
introduced. This 
state of things, 
of course, entails trouble on even a kindly-intentioned hostess, 
and seems ” [nay, let’s add is] “ supremely ridiculous.” 

Why should English people be so dreadfully chary in their own 
country of even interchanging a few words with anyone—unknown 
to them, it is true, but partaking of the same hospitality ? Once 
abroad, they prove themselves ready enough to make acquaint¬ 
ances, very often most undesirable ones. Why should a young 
fellow, seeing a nice girl sitting all forlorn, not be able to cross 
to her and ask her to dance or talk, without being first compelled 




40 London of To-Day. 

to search the room for the host or hostess to effect a proper 
introduction—which, after all, in the greater number of cases, 
resolves itself into a mere mumbling of names, neither party 
being any the wiser? Men say that they are quite willing, 
but the fair sex are apt to snub them if they venture on any 
infringement of the unspoken rules of society. But if guests, 
either at dinners, receptions, or balls, are not to be introduced, 
then the sooner Society makes up its mind to do without intro¬ 
ductions at all, and (on the understanding that a host is responsible 
for the respectability of the visitors under his roof) each makes a 
rule of chattering to anyone in his immediate neighbourhood, the 
better for all those not lucky enough to know everybody and be 
known by everybody in turn.” 

On the recommendation of the Chapel Royal Commission, the 
Queen has ordered that of Whitehall to be permanently closed. 
So ends a particular use of the Banqueting House, which has 
existed since the time of George I. Everybody knows that the 
building was not designed as a chapel, but not many are aware 
that it had never been consecrated for that purpose. It was no 
more than an apartment in which religious services were held, 
and interesting principally as a fragment of a plan for a new 
Whitehall designed by Inigo Jones. Other uses have been 
found for it which will still keep it open to the public. The 
United Service Museum is now located there. 

Whitehall and its banqueting-house naturally suggests remin¬ 
iscences of Cromwell. It seems we have all been wrong in 
heretofore supposing that the mace of Mr. Speaker, weighty 
symbol of his authority, duly carried before him when he daily 
passes to his chair in the House of Commons, is the veritable 
“bauble” of Cromwell. That bauble would appear to have 
somehow drifted away to Kingston, Jamaica. So at least thinks 
the present Speaker. Half one’s curiosity as an outsider, and 
indeed respect for the mace, is now unhappily gone. The bauble 
one sees on the table of the House is no longer the genuine relic 
of Speaker Lenthall. 


“ And what may be the News ? v 


4i 


The gloomy, Bastille-like structure, Millbank Prison, will 
presently disappear as a landmark of riverside London beyond 
Westminster. It has had its day, and will (like most other 
things) cease to be. As a prison it has been closed already: 
the more modern convict establishment at Wormwood Scrubs, 
in West London, having taken its place. 

An innovation upon railway travelling “ underground ” has to be 
noted in the opening of the City and South London Electric Rail¬ 
way, a length of 3^ miles, running in tunnels from King William 
Street (facing that monarch’s statue in the thoroughfare directly 
opening towards London Bridge) at present to Stockwell, beyond 
Lambeth. The novelty of the thing is, that it will for the first time 
place before travellers the experiment of a railway train propelled 
by electricity. There are other innovations upon railway travel¬ 
ling upon this line, however, besides the electro-motive power. 
The necessary, but clumsy ticket business of the ordinary modern 
railway gives place to a simple arrangement. The uniform fare 
of twopence will be paid, and the 'passenger paying his fare 
goes through a turnstile, and has no further trouble in this respect. 
No'one will be half-choked with smoke, and there will be no 
such horrors of a middle passage as in certain weathers are 
offered by the Underground Railway, for example, at points 
between the City and Paddington. There are six stations— 
King William Street, Borough (near St. George’s Church), 
Elephant and Castle, New Street (Kennington), Kennington 
Oval, and Clapham Road or Stockwell. The rate of travel will 
be about fifteen miles; the trains will run at not more than five- 
minute intervals; and as there is a tunnel for each line, there is 
no reason why the two-minute interval that is talked about should 
not be eventually realized. 

It is pleasant to record that the pretty Floral Parade at 
the Royal Botanic Society’s Gardens, in June, was last year 
another success. Although we had a miserable season of rain, 
the delightfully verdant gardens of this Society were, on this 
occasion, flooded with the most brilliant of midsummer sunshine, 


42 


London of To-Day. 

and the whole scene was one of the prettiest imaginable. The 
gardens were opened to the public at half-past two, and visitors 
began to stream in to secure good places and to enjoy the music 
of two military bands (the 2nd Life Guards and the Royal Horse 
Guards). These were stationed one on each side of the central 
walk, and played alternately throughout the afternoon. There 
are, we are told, 4,000 chairs in the gardens, and those were all 
appropriated ; large numbers of visitors promenading as well on 
the lawn around the course railed in for the procession. This 



comprised numerous vehicles of all kinds, profusely decorated 
with flowers—from the carriage and pair adorned with masses of 
yellow and crimson roses, to the child’s “ mail-cart ” begirt with 
sweet sultans, yellow marguerites, and irises. The ever-present 
Hansom-cab played its part: a Hansom very charmingly decorated 
with ferns and white and yellow flowers, the front of it being 
hung with green and white curtains, looped up with trumpet 
lilies, ferns, and spiraeas. 

Women, remarks a cynic, are improving creatures; and readily 
adapt themselves to new ways, especially when those ways are 
the ways of men. And thus in their case we arrive by the broad 




“And what may he the News?" 


43 


stream of “Rounders, “ Skipping,” “Catchball,” Tennis and what¬ 
not at the landing-stage of Cricket. Presently we shall have an 
infantry corps of Amazons rifle-shooting at Bisley. The Lady 
Cricketers are not lovely in costume ; but that’s a minor matter. 
They wear short skirts of white cricketing flannel reaching about 
four inches below the knees, a sailor blouse of the same material 
and a white cap. To prevent injury from a blow on the breast they 
have a sort of armour of steel-plates, leather and wadding ; when 
batting they use leg-guards and gloves. The height of the tallest 
girl is five feet ten ; that of the shortest five feet one. And it is 
reassuring to learn that they are accompanied on their tours 
(which last year brought them Londonwards) by “ a responsible 
matron.” 

Those who are interested in matters of dress may like to know 
that the officers of one of the leading regiments are going to 
introduce scarlet dress-coats for evening wear, such as have been 
worn in France for so many years. It is possible that they will 
be worn, in certain circles, with white satin waistcoats and knee- 
breeches. We have seen these same red dress-coats (and very 
lovely they look) worn with dark blue waistcoats, knee-breeches, 
black silk stockings, and shoes. But the short and stout man 
must look about for other garb. Dress waistcoats, we are in¬ 
formed, are not worn so much hollowed out as they have been. 
Coats have returned to their premiers amours in the shape of 
lapel fronts, and the roll and collar is also being abandoned for 
its temporarily deserted predecessor. Evening trousers are worn 
with two narrow braids down the side-seams, with the width of 
the braid between them, as in the Guards’ uniform. In other 
matters there is little change at present. What the Season may 
produce no man can foretell. Mr. Whitaker or Mr. Smalpage 
might perhaps give a hint. 

The conversion of that once snug bachelors’ haunt, Hatchett’s 
Hotel, into residential chambers, and the transformation of the 
White Horse Cellars into a comfortable grill-room, have driven 
the Coaching brigade to other head-quarters. The Bath Hotel, 


44 


London of To-Day. 



in Piccadilly, is now one rendezvous; and the Metropole 
and Victoria Hotels in Northumberland Avenue are others. 
This arrangement is a little confusing to strangers, and it 
may be hoped that this year there will be but one centre 
for the men of whipcord and their friends, and that centre in 
Piccadilly. 

There is a Sunday in late May which has come to be known 
in London as “Chestnut Sunday:” a somewhat ambiguous 
title, but, such as it is, it serves. Bushey Park is celebrated 
as we know for its fine avenue of chestnut-trees, and when 
these in spring-tide are white and pink with bloom, Londoners 
make excursion, by way of Kew and Richmond, to see the 
sight (which is one of the prettiest and sweetest in Nature), and 
a Sunday in May or early June is the day most popular and 
convenient with the majority. At that period of the year all 
around Bushey the country shows billowy waves of greenery in 
varying shades, but all fresh and bright and luxuriant, and 
telling the tale of unspoiled youth. The rooks are noisy in the 



“And what may be the News?” 


45 


trees, and occasionally from far away is heard the soft call of 
the cuckoo; while from the hawthorns and shrubs about the 
river-bank the songs of other birds proclaim the joyousness 
of the season. The river is crowded with boats, and the gardens 
sloping to it are gay with tulips and the brilliant tassels of the 
laburnum. 

To get back from Bushey to London, gossiping as we go: 
we wonder how many Londoners, and visitors to London, pass¬ 
ing and repassing in their several ways about Town “ Cleopatra’s 
Needle ” on the Northern Thames Embankment, give one passing 
thought to its history. Here it 
is, in brief, from the pen of Mr. 

John Dixon, and we may well 
gaze upon the monument and 
ponder. 

‘ ‘ It must not be forgotten the 
centuries that have passed away 
since this ancient monument was 
erected by the Pharaoh Ramses 
III., at the main gateway of the 
great temple at ‘ On,’ the ‘ Helio¬ 
polis ’ of the Greeks. There it 
stood for eighteen centuries, and 
was, about 23 b.c., removed by crder of Cleopatra to the palace 
she was erecting at Alexandria for her friend and constant 
visitor, Julius Caesar. The’ architect appointed by her was 
‘Pontius,’ the father of Pontius Pilate, the Governor of Judaea. 
The rounded corners of the bases of these two obelisks had 
doubtless been chipped off by the gatekeepers at ‘ On’ and sold 
to the pilgrim visitors. Pontius had eight bronze crabs cast 
and placed them under the rounded corners of the stones, and 
on the big claw of one of the two crabs which alone remained 
was, when the pedestal was cleared of its surrounding sand, 
found this inscription in Greek :— 1 In the sixth year of Augustus 
Caesar, I, Barbarus, Prefect of Egypt, caused these obelisks 



4 6 


London of To-Day. 

to be erected by Pontius, the architect.’ Since then another 
nineteen centuries have passed, and even this age of 3,700 
years of weathering has not erased one single portion of the 
hieroglyphs.” A marvel of the ages which few Londoners will 
stay to contemplate. 

The following incident, if not precisely new, or anywise con¬ 
nected with the events of the London Season so-called, merits 
mention here, as a curious present-day revival of an ancient 
ceremony “ Yesterday ” [October 13th] “being the Feast of 
St. Edward the Confessor High Mass was offered at 11 o’clock 
in the Church of SS. Peter and Edward, Palace Street, Bucking¬ 
ham Gate, by the Bishop of Emmaus, after which the panegyric 
of the saint was preached by Father A. B. Gurdon. Subse¬ 
quently a visit was paid by many members of the congregation 
and other devout Roman Catholics to the shrine which encloses 
the body of the King and Confessor at Westminster Abbey. 
Directly after Morning Prayer a number of Roman Catholics, 
including a few priests, passed into the chapel, where they knelt 
in silent devotion. There were some few well-known Anglicans 
who likewise made a pilgrimage to the shrine. As the day went 
on the stream of pilgrims increased, and the floor around the 
shrine became covered with kneeling forms.” 

On February 16th, Mr. E. Stanhope had great pleasure in 
informing the House of Commons that the Queen had been 
graciously pleased to direct that the wharf at the Tower of 
London should be thrown open to the public on Saturdays and 
Sundays, as soon as the necessary arrangements could be made. 
So that this little matter of wholesome recreation is at last 
decided ; and a picturesque river-side promenade, heretofore 
closed, is made available to the working population resident near 
the Docks. 



“Where shall we Stay ?' 1 47 


Chapter II. 

“WHERE SHALL WE STAY?” 


TT is the particular province of this book to point out all 
that is best in London of To-Day (will the indulgent 
Reader kindly read, mark, and remember that?—not London 
of Yesterday, or London of The Day Before), leaving the worst 
to be sought out by him who has a mind to engage in so forlorn 
and quixotic an enterprise. He may take our word that, should 







48 London of To-Day . 

he enter upon it, he will have much trouble in reaching his 
journey's end. 

We propose, then, to keep to our own appropriate function ; 
being persuaded that none in his senses will care to be at 
the trouble of searching out the worst hotel in London. Some, 
perhaps, might be tempted to look for the cheapest; but as 
such an expedition would imply unlimited leisure, and an 
expenditure of money hardly less considerable than the test 
of temper involved, we may as well at once dismiss that as 
among the minor temptations to be resisted. 

No half-dozen persons indiscriminately taken would answer 
alike the question that stands as our chapter headline. The 
choice of an hotel is almost entirely a matter of individual taste 
and temperament, more or less influenced by social, local or 
monetary considerations. Some prefer the big, some the small; 
others the “ private hotel,” so-named ; others, again, look for 
the cheap. Some insist on being located in the very centre 
of the Court quarter: some at or about Charing Cross; others 
in or near Piccadilly ; others, again, seek the business parts of 
the town ; a few incline to outlying districts, such as Norwood 
and Richmond. All will have just what they want. Most visitors 
do get what they want nowadays in the way of hotel accommo¬ 
dation in London, except perhaps in the very full of the Season. 

The incidental monetary question we^may pass by. Those 
who stay in hotels are, as a matter of course, under obligation 
to pay the bills they incur; and these the guest will very 
properly discuss with himself, or herself, or the management, 
should he or she demur (as occasionally will happen) to the 
daily or weekly tally. It is a business with which we have no 
concern. 

We may remind each one, however, that the initial charges 
per person per day in all London Hotels of the first rank are 5s. 
(some few 3s. 6 d.) for a bedroom, flus is. 6 d. for attendance; 
to which items may be added, at the end of the stay, a few 
shillings distributable as gratuities or “tips” to waiters and 


“ Where shall we Stay ? ” 


49 


attendants. We are neither for or against this usage. We 
have to pay with the rest. The system of “tipping” exists in 
England. It is a neat way of paying twice over for the same 


thing, by which proprie¬ 
tors sometimes profit, 
and attendants secure 
an occasional addition 
to their wage. Possibly 
they are entitled to 
it, for an additional 
show of courtesy and 
attention. 



As practised, however, 
in certain London rest¬ 
aurants it is absolutely 
indefensible. Waiters 
are known to pay 


A the proprietor for their 
plj tables,” with the result 
j 3 that the customer has to 
> pay the waiter for the 


due serving of the meal 
he has come to eat. 
Without such service, 
the proprietor would 
naturally have no cus¬ 


tomers to serve. It is truly strange to see how meekly the 
public will submit to this kind of scandalous tribute. It is 
chiefly exacted in London—in French, Swiss, Italian, and Ger¬ 
man restaurants; and some, too, of the better class of these. 
But the charge for “attendance” rules generally throughout Eng¬ 
land, and the stranger within our gates must be prepared to 
meet it. At hotels the “ tip ” is voluntary. 

The “ initial charges ” (as above indicated) will, of course, 
vary with the guest’s requirements, increasing in proportion to 

4 










50 


London of To-Day. 

his demands for superior accommodation, or more epicurean fare 
outside the fixed tariff. 

We are inclined to think that a person of moderate means and 
modest requirements may live at a firstclass London hotel 
according to the tariff, for somewhat less than £1 per day. He 
may do so (without wine) for example, at the Grand and 
Metropole Hotels, and fare, too, handsomely: say 6s. 6 d. for bed 
and attendance; 3s. 6 d. for breakfast; $s. for dinner (table 
d'hdte ); add luncheon (say) 3 s. 6 d. He may greatly increase 
these prices if he take to the grand suite, and live like a Russian 
prince, on ortolans a la Perigord and sip the finest champagnes. 

The traveller apt at criticism of the general arrangements, 
charges, and usages of our hotels, in what respect each may differ 
from the. other, or from those of his own country, will do well 
to bear in mind that he is but one personage of the Grand Army 
of Peregrine Martyrs. It would be as idle to suppose that the 
militant thousands who comprise that army will hold to one 
common standard of hotel comfort, living, and personal expen¬ 
diture, as that all should subscribe to one universal creed of cold- 
bathism, manicurism, pedicurism, or any other of the hundred 
and one fleeting fads, fashions, and isms of the day. 

Rather let him recall the judicious advice of the saintly 
Augustine, of precious memory, which is equally d jirofios of 

hotels as of cities. St. Augustine, as we remember the legend- 

It is needless to repeat what we remember of the legend. The 
sum total of the good saint’s advice was, to accept the usages of 
the city in which it may happen we temporarily sojourn, without 
cavil. And, if of the city, why, per consequence, of its hotels. 

There is little scope, however, for fault-finding with the 
London hotels that we may incidentally touch upon. All are 
good; some are excellent; in respect of locale , some may be 
preferred to others; considered in the aggregate they are the 
equal of any in the world. 

As regards central situation, general convenience, and choice 
of accommodation, the hotels in Northumberland Avenue take 


li Where shall we Stay ?” 51 

the leading place ; and of the three there located, the Metropole, 
the Grand, and the Hotel Victoria, hold equal rank. 

The Grand, as most travellers know, fronts on the London 
Square known the world over: the well-known Landseer lions 
and Nelson monument in front; the not very effective and 
podgy-looking fountains trying to show effectively on either 
side ; the Strand to the right; Pall Mall to the left; Whitehall 
running southward; the great traffic of the City ever passing 
onward, eastward and westward. 

The Hotel Metropole stands at the south-west corner of 
Northumberland Avenue, hard by the Temple of Progress (we 
are unpolitical) where Liberals foregather, and over against 
the sumptuous edifice reserved to the use of their political 
opponents to whom the Constitution is dear: and as to its 
westernmost part, next Whitehall and within stone’s-throw of 
the Embankment Gardens, than which none prettier and more 
refreshing on summer- 
days are to be met 
with in London. 

It is not easy to 
add anything to what 
has been already pub¬ 
lished in this book 
bearing upon these 
two hotels. Those 
already familiar with 
its contents, and, 
perchance, having, in 
some sort, acted upon 
the suggestions there¬ 
in offered (by which, 
we trust, they have in 
some degree profited) 
are, doubtless, 
equally familiar with one or the other. The reader yet waiting 
















52 


London of To-Day. 


to be informed will, in our humble judgment, find it hard to 
better them in England. Such, at least, is our experience— 
gathered in many hotels in and out of London. 

The accommodations afforded by each allow of an ample 
choice, alike to the wealthy and the ordinary traveller. There 
is the modest sleeping-apartment for him in search of it; and 
there is the grand suite for those that way inclined. An 
excellent variety of daily fare is liberally supplied, at convenient 
hours, at fixed prices. For those learned in the literature of 
Brillat Savarin, the resources of the kitchen may vie with any in 
Town. The table d'hote is open to all: breakfast, luncheon, and 
dinner; but for those who like not the French mode, there is the 
fashion of the more reserved and exclusive English. The public 
rooms are spacious and luxurious ; the general conveniences are 
many ; and there is scarce a traveller’s need, taste, or even 
whim, that has not been taken account of in the arrangements 
generally made for his comfort. 

The Gordon Hotels Company-is entitled to all the prestige it has 
earned for remodelling the hotel system of London. The Grand 
improved upon the work which years ago the Great Western 
Hotel initiated. The Langham added a touch of the American 
manner to its arrangements, which for many a long day no 
English hotel company improved upon. The Grosvenor, Buck¬ 
ingham Palace, Westminster Palace, and Inns of Court Hotels 
imitated the huge building at Paddington, but went to work 
on the old lines : vastness, without any great effort at comfort, 
stout Corinthian columns, stately rooms and halls; the same 
substantial century-old English fare lacking variety and very 
handsomely charged for; and a general want of enterprise 
which was in time past pretty freely criticised. The “big” 
London hotel of the past is “ big ” (if we are unclassical in the 
word, it is of good newspaper origin), and that’s abont all that 
can be said of it. We have read whole reams of letters to 
editors, in our time, on the subject of “the little fish called 
a sole ; ” the breakfast egg; the biscuit and note-paper “ charged 


“ Where shall we Stay ? 


53 



for in the bill; ” the mutton-chop luncheon at half-a-crown; the 
never-ending “joint” in the coffee-room at seven; and so 
on, and so on. And yet there were New York and Boston 
lying in one direction, 
and Paris, Switzer¬ 
land, and Brussels 
in another, inviting 
London hotel direc¬ 
tors and managers to 
do what other people 
occasionally do, 
borrow ideas, namely, 
from their neighbours, 
and profit in utilizing 
them as their own. 

The originators of 
the Metropole and 
Grand hotels doubt¬ 
less availed them¬ 
selves of that con¬ 
venience, and later 
found their account 
in it. We have a 
little of the Conti¬ 
nental in their plan; a little of the American; and the better 
part of the English: a judicious aggregate of all three. Their 
plan has not sacrificed comfort to gloomy grandeur. It has not 
borrowed the fine old barrack style of empty corridors and bare 
walls. Nor has it stuck too sturdily to that admirable piece de 
resistance the joint: O ! the roast beef of Old England ; and O ! 
the old English roast beef—and mutton without variation. It 
admits of a little brightness and cheerfulness at the dinner-table 
without relying too entirely on the splendour of the head waiter; 
and in the matter of breakfast it exhibits progressiveness not 
depending too much upon the egg. It concedes a margin of 









































54 


London of To-Day. 


profit for gratuitous allowance of note-paper to visitors (not 
forgetting that each time a letter is written on hotel letter- 
paper it becomes a gratuitous advertisement of that hotel to 
others); nor is it too sensitive of the distribution of the 



biscuit. It makes note of each new fashion as it arises; 
and generally strives to keep even with the times. Enterprise 
is its sufficient motto. Apparently the plan answers well. 
Gordon Hotels are “ run ” here and there on the same common- 

sense principles—at 
Brighton, at Monte 
Carlo, at Cannes, for 
example, born of the 
same parents and 
bearing the family 
name; and we’ll trust 
the results in due 
course will show divi¬ 
dends, dividends fair 
and just, not declared 
at the sacrifice of 
those who help to 
make them, the shab¬ 
biest of all policies 
and a “ cocksure ” 
road to ruin ; but as 
a bona-fide return for 
good management, 
and generous treat¬ 
ment of travellers. 

The Victoria Hotel 
on Northumberland 
Avenue ranks with 
the foregoing in point 
of convenience of situation, extensive accommodation, luxurious 
equipment, and architectural grandeur. It has had, of course, 










View from the Westminster Palace Hotel, “over against the 
famous Abbey.” See p . 59 . 























Ik 1 1 













u Where shall we Stay? 


>} 


55 



to withstand the keen competition of its near neighbours, but 
meets with its full share of patronage, and is becoming in¬ 
creasingly prosperous. We have heard it very favourably 
commented upon 
by many who 
have availed of 
its accommoda¬ 
tions, a fact to 
which we will¬ 
ingly lend pub¬ 
licity in this 
handbook. 

The Savoy 
Hotel stands 
facing the 
Thames Em¬ 
bankment, with¬ 
in the historic 
precinct whence 
this hotel takes 
its name. Its 
gilded column 
frontage on the 
river-side is suf¬ 
ficiently imposing, and it is a very handsome and commodious 
structure every way, having the continental style of interior court 
yard, plashing fountain, shrubs, flowers, and so on. A conspi¬ 
cuous feature is its balcony-restaurant, facing the river—a pleasant 
open-air resort for dinner parties in summer, over-looking the 
always interesting river-way of London. The Savoy Hotel has 
the reputation (we know not with what fairness) of being more 
expensive than the average of competing establishments west¬ 
ward. Few of us have so much money to spend as we had (or 
if we have, do not perhaps, spend it so lavishly), and in the 
matter of hotel and restaurant prices the majority are as keen 







56 


London of To-Day. 


in estimating the probable totals of their bills, as most women 
in “ pricing ’’ the worth of a yard of ribbon. But we wish the 
Savoy increasing prosperity. 

In the Belgravian district of London you have a choice of the 
following hotels: The Grosvenor, at Victoria Station ; the Buck¬ 
ingham Palace, fronting the south side of the Palace; the 
Alexandra, facing Hyde Park. Of these the two last are each 
patronized by what are known as “ county people” in the Season 
—well-to-do quiet families, who come up to London in June and 
July for a little of the pressing pleasures of society. 

In the Mayfair part will be found the Berkeley Hotel, with a 
reputation for French cookery and well-served dinners. The 
attractive-looking Hotel Albemarle stands a few yards away, with 
a reputation yet to be made, but in the hands of a proprietor who 
has made his name in running a hotel north of the Tweed. 

Long’s Hotel in Bond Street has every advantage of location, 
and is well-managed and comfortable. It is, however, no longer 
the old bachelor “Long’s” of Byron’s and Walter Scott’s time, 
with a thousand and one anecdotes associated with the names 
appearing in its well-filled visitors’-books ; but a new “ Long’s ” 
within and without, decorated and fully-equipped a la mode , and 
receiving ladies as guests, an innovation (if we rightly remember) 
on its established practice of former years. The Tavistock Hotel 
in Covent Garden is now the only house in London that holds to its 
old rule of politely bowing away would-be patrons of the fair sex. 

Hereabouts, in streets and squares, adjacent to Piccadilly, will 
be found a class of hotels known as “ private.” These combine 
the quietness and privacy of an ordinary mansion or house, with 
the conveniences and facilities common to a hotel, and generally 
restrict the accommodation offered, not to single bedrooms, but 
to apartments en suite. Consequently for guests remaining in 
town only for a night or so, such hotels will be found somewhat 
more expensive than the average. 

Representative of these, in the Piccadilly district, and fre¬ 
quented by many of the best English and American families is 



Drawing-Room of the Hotel M£tropole, 





























































































































“ Where shall we Slay?” 


57 





Brown’s and St. George’s Hotel, in Dover and Albemarle Streets. 
The older hotel, to the great advantage of its patrons, has enlarged 

its premises and improved 
them in several ways, 
added to the space of 
its reception-, dining-, and 
other apartments, and 
considerably increased its 
bedroom accommodation. 
The Albemarle Street 
structure now forms part of 
the original Dover Street 
hotel so long and admir¬ 
ably controlled by Messrs. 
Ford & Sons. It is suffi¬ 
cient to add that they still 
personally manage the 
affairs of their more com¬ 
modious hotel, a fact that 
should add to the in¬ 
creasing number of their 
patrons. No more com¬ 
fortable place of stay is to be found in London. Its cuisine 
is excellent, and the service as good as can be. 

Buildings, like builders, have their destiny. No one can foretell 
what destiny may yet be awaiting the many sumptuous edifices of 
modern London. Those of them now open as hotels have, from 
time to time, absorbed not a few one-time mansions of the nobility, 
or other buildings of more or less historic note. The Grand 
Hotel swept away Northumberland House. On the site of the 
Hotel Metropole once stood outlying parts of the neighbouring 
Whitehall. The Royal Hotel at Blackfriars must have engulphed 
not a few dwellings of comparatively ancient date standing by 
Bridewell, near “to where Fleet Ditch, with disemboguing streams, 
rolled its large tribute of dead dogs to Thames.” 







58 London of To-Day. 

The curious stranger may at the Burlington Hotel, in Cork 
Street westward, find himself handsomely lodged in one or other 
of the mansions designed by Lord Burlington, of some fame in 
his way, and severally occupied by Field-marshal Wade, Lord 
Cornwallis, Alexander Hood, Lord Bridport, and not unlikely at 
one period by the husband of “ Kitty ” Countess of Queensberry, 
the friend of Gay. Interiorly, the Burlington is one of the 
most interesting hotels in London. Its rooms, which take us 
back to the early and generally comfortable period of the 
Georges, are quite unique in their ceiling decorations, panellings, 
doorway's, and old carved wood-work, one or two examples of 
which in the. hotel are attributed to Grinling Gibbons. The 
Burlington has happily not been modernized. It is an hotel of 
the first rank, under efficient and painstaking management, and 
is every way to be commended. 

Limmer’s Hotel, in Conduit Street, is another first-class hotel 
of West End London; Thomas’s, in Berkeley Square; Mackellar’s, 
and Batt’s, both in Dover Street, are each deserving of recom¬ 
mendation as being quiet, comfortable, and well managed. 

The Bristol, in Burlington Gardens, is a fashionable place, 
with a reputation for being somewhat expensive. There are one 
or two smaller hotels in this locality well known among fashion¬ 
able West End people, but less known to our unfashionable 
selves. As a rule, the hotels in the vicinity of Bond Street are 
reserved to the wealthy. 

In Jermyn Street, St. James’s, are one or two comfortable and 
quiet hotels, less expensive than many of the West End houses. 
Of such, Rawlings’ is a fair example. The Bath, by the way, 
in Piccadilly, is an old-fashioned hotel, worthy to be noticed, 
albeit almost lost now in the maze of the grand competition. 

North of Oxford Street will be found: (i) Westward : The Great 
Western Hotel, at Paddington, the first to be built of all the 
great London hotels; (2) Central : The Langham, in Portland 
Place, well situated, and enjoying a considerable share of general 
patronage, less American than formerly; (3) Eastward of Totten- 



iteriorly ‘The Burlington’ is one of the Most Interesting Hotels in 

London.” [See p . 58 














































“ Where shall we Stay ? ” 


59 


ham Court Road, the Euston Hotel, at the terminus of the 
London and North Western Railroad ; and (4) in the same line 
of thoroughfare, the Midland Grand at St. Pancras, an excellent 
and inexpensive hotel, well deserving the attention of every class 
of traveller, both wealthy and but moderately endowed. 

The Royal Hotel, Blackfriars, has a considerable continental 
connection, and'is frequented largely by travellers from Belgium 
and France. It has also a fair share of patronage from all parts ; 
and is generally well-placed, well-managed, and comfortable. 

The Westminster Palace Hotel, over against the famous Abbey, 
when the Law Courts were near at hand, a commodious settle¬ 
ment of professional men, is now gradually getting back to its old 
place among the family hotels of West End London. Its location 
could hardly be more convenient for sight-seeing purposes, and 
it has long been controlled by one of the most experienced of 
managers, and it is moderate in its charges. 

The Railway terminal hotels in the line of thoroughfare 
reaching from Charing Cross to London Bridge are the Charing 
Cross and the Cannon Street Hotels. The Terminus Hotel 
at London Bridge Station should also be mentioned. 

Among the comfortable old hotels of London, let us name 
the Tavistock in Covent Garden—a gentleman’s abode, with 
a reputation that may be traced back a hundred years. A 
uniform charge of 7s. 6 d. for bed and breakfast is made at this 
house. The fare generally is excellent, and its smoking-room (as 
befits a gentleman’s hotel) forms a cosy rendezvous for clubable 
travellers from all parts of the kingdom and the Colonies. 

Morley’s Hotel in Trafalgar Square is deserving of special 
mention. It has been for so many years favourably known to 
generations of visitors to London that little new can be said of 
it. In the grand competition it well maintains its rank as the 
foremost of the older hotels of London, ’though occupying no in¬ 
considerable part of the east side of Trafalgar Square, a fact which 
but a few years since placed it among the largest. There are few 
houses more comfortable, and none more conveniently located. 


6o 


London of To-Day. 



The First Avenue Hotel in Holborn has attracted of late years 
a considerable share of general support. It deserves well of the 
economical American (and it is needless to add the economical 
Britisher too) who goes abroad to see the world. Its locality 
is central and fairly placed, midway between business and 
pleasure. Its charges are moderate. It can boast of three good 
dining-places: the dining-hall proper, the restaurant, and the 
~- :i lroom. It is alive to the convenience and— 
let’s add—healthy bedroom usefulness of 
the electric light; and (are we 
right or are we wrong ?) makes 
no charge for attendance! 
“No charge for attend¬ 
ance ! ” in a land where 
attendance is a very con¬ 
siderable item of 
hotel profit, deserves 
to be set down in a 
book of this kind in 
r double-leaded type. 
It may interest 
the Reader in the 
immense improve¬ 
ments effected in the 
hotel accommodation 
provided for visitors to 
London, when we tell 
him that, at one time, the 
- „ Golden Cross Hotel at Charing 
Cross was the most famous hotel in 
the capital. Says a gossiping book 
hall, first avenue hotel. a t our e lbow, published in the second 
decade of the century: “There could not be named another 
house in the known world so generally known as the Golden 
Cross. ... Its fame has spread from the Pillars of Hercules 














Morley’s Hotel in Trafalgar Square. 





























11 Where shall we Stay? 1 ' 61 

to the Ganges ; from Nova Zembla to New Zealand ; from Siam 
to California.” 

This once famous London hostelry still stands, like Denmark, 
where it did ; but in comparison of the splendid structures that 
overlook it, is no more typical of the London hotel of to-day 
than the modern belle’s dainty parasol of silk is typical of 
sturdy Jonas Hanway’s original cotton umbrella. 

The fame and fashion of one hotel are soon eclipsed by 
the fame and fashion of another. The great world of London 
spins “for ever down the ringing grooves of change.” No 
sooner do we fancy that all must now be complete, than off 
speeds the whirligig wheel again. It was but the other day that 
we were looking over the latest addition to London’s palatial 
hotels, and wondering whence would come the greater influx 
of yearly visitors to occupy its innumerable apartments, when 
we were informed that yet another will presently stand beside 
it, if possible, completer and grander than its neighbour. The 
building is all but completed; but we doubt whether it will ever 
be opened as a Hotel. 

What is to become of all the now old, once modern, 
hotels of London? Nay, what will become of all of lesser 
fame ? Truly, the visitor is in no need of choice: in little 
need, may be, of our advice. He may find a resting-place 
suitable to his means in, or adjacent to, almost every leading 
thoroughfare. Hotel prices of the older great hotels are not, 
we imagine, what they were five-and-twenty years ago; and we 
should have little hesitation in accepting a room in any. 

But having promised our Readers not to lose sight of that ever- 
increasing, always considerable, section of visitors yearly attracted 
to London, to whom an hotel expenditure of 17s. or thereabouts 
per day is not always, perhaps, convenient, let us point out some 
of the best of the more moderate-priced ones* 

There are the Inns of Court Hotel in Holborn ; the Arundel 
and Temple Hotels in Arundel Street, Strand; the Caledonian, 
Robert Street, Adelphi; Lay’s hotel in Surrey Street, Strand j 

5 


62 


London of To-Day . 

the Covent Garden hotels near that still crowded market-place 
of London of To-Day ; the Salisbury, in Salisbury Square, Fleet 
Street; Wood’s, in Furnival’s Inn, quiet and well-managed; the 
Holborn Viaduct Hotel, next the City Railway Terminus of the 
London, Chatham, and Dover Railway; the Midland Grand at 
St. Pancras, also previously referred to as inexpensive and good; 
the Albion, and Manchester Hotels in Aldersgate Street; the 
Great Eastern at Liverpool Street Terminus; the West Central 
Hotel, in Southampton Row (a successful Temperance hotel); 
Anderton’s in Fleet Street for busy men; and Ridler’s, a quiet 
hotel, in Holborn. 

From the foregoing information the best of the London hotels 
may be selected. 

If the Reader be still unsatisfied, or undecided, the Editor, 
whether in respect of the matter of the foregoing, or of any other 
Chapter in this Handbook, will be glad to render any further 
information in his power, on application made to him by Letter 
addressed to I, Creed Lane, Ludgate Hill. He will always do 
his best to answer any inquiries so sent to him, trusting by such 
means to make this book of real, practical help to Strangers in 
the great world of London. 


Houses, “Flats" “Chambers" “Rooms" etc. 63 


Chapter III. 

HOUSES, " FLATS,” “ CHAMBERS,” " ROOMS,” APART¬ 
MENTS, AND BOARD. 

'“T'HAT there are 
other ways of 
sojourning in 
London than in 
Hotels everyone 
knows, and not a 
few, to their cost. 
If all might occupy 
grand suites at grand 
hotels, everything 
found at so much 
per head, no land¬ 
lords to worry us, 
no servants to look 
after, no taxes to pay, breakfast served at the moment we wanted 
it, and no cold mutton on week-days,—what an uncommonly 
pleasant world would this be to live in! 

It being the business of this always enterprising and generally 
well-prepared work to consider the case of those who are 
strangers and pilgrims among us; let us inform them how 
we Londoners ordinarily arrange our business of sojourning in 
London. 

We do not, as a rule, live in hotels, as do our excellent American 
cousins whom we are ever so ready to welcome, and to the best 
of our ability instruct and entertain—though by the way we are 
not seldom indebted to them on the like account. The balance 
of profit may be said on the whole, perhaps, to remain with us. 








64 London of To-Day . 

Some few of us live in palaces, some in mansions, some on 
“ flats,” some in “ chambers,” others in “ rooms ; ” others again in 
“houses,” “villas,” “lodges,” and “cottages,” detached and semi¬ 
detached; “Maisonettes,” “Deepdenes,” “Lindens,” “Lilacs,” 
and “ Laburnums ” (like beetles and moths), variously located 
in roads, terraces, squares, parks (we, personally, for example, 
live in a park: Coventry Park, where we shall always be pleased 
to shake the hand of an American, though he must not expect to 
find much park to beat, shoot, or roam about in); and also in 
“ crescents ” and streets. The large majority of us live in so-called 
tenements, amid more or less nasty and unpleasing surroundings ; 
and a small minority annually reside in prison at Wormwood 
Scrubs, Holloway, and elsewhere. But that minority is happily 
annually lessening. 

We need not particularly refer here to those august personages 
who have the fortune (we have heard it said that some of them 
consider it, at times, a misfortune) to live in palaces. The Lon¬ 
don palaces are never to let, though not unfrequently unoccupied. 
No American can ever hope to lodge in one of our palaces, 
except, perhaps, at Windsor, which is sufficiently roomy, and 
occasionally temporarily shelters the American Minister to the 
Court of St. James’s, when he goes there to dine, 

As to our mansions, these are well within the possibilities. 
There are many of such places to let in Mayfair, Belgravia, 
Tyburnia (where we once hanged malefactors), about Hyde 
Park, and elsewhere. Consult Messrs. Hampton, of Pall Mall, 
or Messrs. Lumley, of St. James’s Street, the highest authorities 
on matters of this kind, of which we ourselves plead ignorance. 
They will tell you all about fashionable localities, unfurnished 
and furnished houses, town mansions and country seats, “ flats,” 
“chambers,” and so on, and so on. 

If you want a house for the season, a “ flat ” for two or three 
months, chambers in Piccadilly or St. James’s Street, or other 
eligible position, they can probably accommodate you at all 
prices and at any price. If you are bent on becoming a renter 


Houses , tl Flats” 11 Chambers u Rooms” etc. 65 

of moors in Scotland, or of rivers in Norway or lakes in Ireland, 
or shootings in Yorkshire, or well-wooded fir forests (such as 
we have), these are the gentlemen to consult, and if they 
cannot accommodate you, it will be difficult to find anyone 
else in London who can. They have all such business at their 
fingers’ ends, and a long-established connection, too, among the 
people who own moors, mansions, villas, 11 chambers,” and 
“ flats.” 

In regard of these last, very good examples may be found 
in Westminster (Victoria Street), Whitehall Court Buildings, 
Piccadilly, Bloomsbury, Oxford Mansions (Hyde Park, north 
side), Sloane Square, Chelsea, etc., etc. 

Whitehall Court, with its open arcades, its lofty pavilions, 
and its balconied stories of white Portland stone, is one of 
the grandest architectural acquisitions of London of To-Day. 
Together with the National Liberal Club (south-west corner 
of Northumberland Avenue) it constitutes a worthy adornment 
to one of the noblest public roads in the world. Its internal 
construction is a marvel of solidity and convenience. From 
the electric light to telephonic tubes and hydraulic lifts, no 
modern invention is wanting to make life easy and pleasant at 
this Palace of Flats. From the windows of its fourth floor—to 
go no higher—the spectator gets such a view of the Thames, 
and of London west, east, and south, onwards to the hills 
of Surrey, as would be cheap at two hundred a year, to any 
man with the cash to spare and a pair of eyes in his head. 

The flat-system of living seems to be in special favour just 
now in modern London, both with the upper and middle classes 
of society. It offers many advantages which the private house 
cannot claim ; and in fashionable and central localities of London 
is a good deal cheaper than renting a house, even if you can 
find one to rent. A flat in a good locality westward—take 
Carlisle Mansions, for example, in the vicinity of Victoria Street, 
Westminster—comprising dining- and drawing-rooms, three bed¬ 
rooms, kitchen, and necessary offices, will command from ,£140 


66 


London of To-Day. 



to ^360 a year, according to position. Flats are practically 
the grand suite of a grand hotel, with the difference that the 
furniture is provided by the tenant. 

“ Chambers ” may be considered “ flats ” in small. These 
snuggeries are generally reserved to bachelors. “The Albany” 
in Piccadilly (north side near Burlington House) affords a good 
example of this class of residence, not modern, but still tenanted 
by gentlemen of position. Residential chambers in some parts 
of the Temple are not to be despised; especially in the new 
buildings overlooking the Gardens and Embankment. These 

are difficult to 
be had, as the 
I lawyers keep 

an eye upon 
any that may 
fall vacant. 

We London¬ 
ers, who shel¬ 
ter ourselves in 
houses, villas, 
lodges, cot¬ 
tages, and so 
on, generally 
V" trust to the 

r e c o m menda- 
- tions, solicita- 

^ ■' tions, or in- 

-—- ducements of 

friends (not 

1. v 

seldom with 
later regret) in the matter of fixing 
our abode. We generally take our 
respective houses, villas, etc., on lease from the landlord, 
for a term of three, seven, or ten years—as the prospects 
prove alluring. As a general thing three years is the safer 













Houses, “Flats” “Chambers” “Rooms” etc. 67 

plan; but “three years” is not the safer plan until you have 
satisfactory guarantees as to the drainage, drain-traps, closets, 
water-pipes, etc., being in good and efficient order, from the 
landlord. 

As to rents, everything depends upon the locale. Choose 
your district, and then look about in that district for the always- 
present house-agent. State your wants to him; and the rent 
to which you propose to restrict yourself; and he will be the 
man to inform you of the whereabouts of the “very house ” you 
are ip search of. 

Pretty suburban parts of London are Streatham, Hampstead, 
Norwood, Wimbledon, Putney, Richmond, Surbiton, Teddington 
(for the boating season); and, within the omnibus routes, 
Kensington and Bayswater, though very much built upon and 
showing little enough, now, of green fields, trees, and grass as 
in the old time. But near the Gardens and Parks you have 
a goodly show of both. 

“ Rooms ” may be classified among bachelors’ dwellings: 
a slang survival of the college bachelor and barrack period : 
“ Come to my rooms; ” “I shall be at my rooms ; ” “ Lunch at 
my rooms,” etc., etc. “ Rooms ” may be had almost anywhere 
and at almost any rental—in Pall Mall, Regent Street, Piccadilly, 
Sackville Street, Conduit Street, Bond Street, St. James’s Street, 
Dover Street, Albemarle Street, etc. In point of fact, “ rooms ” 
is simply another word for apartments or lodgings; but for 
some unknown reason or other, seldom so used when the 
rooms happen to be tenanted by husband and wife. 

Lodgings may be met with in every part of London, central 
and suburban, north, south, east, and west, in the most fashion¬ 
able and in the least fashionable thoroughfares. They may 
be rented in Regent Street, in Piccadilly, Bond Street, Pall 
Mall, St. James’s Street, and the numerous streets adjacent; in 
the Strand, in Craven, Adelphi, Bedford, Henrietta, Wellington, 
and Norfolk, and several other Streets ; in the quiet and unquiet 
thoroughfares north and south of Oxford Street, from its eastern- 


68 


London of To-Day . 

most to its westernmost end; in the vicinity of aristocratic 
Grosvenor Square, South Audley, Green, Charles, and Park 
Streets ; in the Bloomsbury district, in all the streets adjacent 
to Bedford, Russell, Mecklenburgh, and the other Squares; 
in Bayswater, Pimlico, Kensington, Hammersmith—in short, 
everywhere: in every part of metropolitan London, and outside 
of it. The rent of lodgings varies with the locality. A couple 
of rooms on the third floor in Piccadilly, fronting the Green 
Park, will cost not less than £4 4s. a week, and they are not 
often to be had at that price. The same accommodation in 
Jermyn Street, in a much smaller house, will, in the Season, 
cost about the same. The drawing-room floor in a street 
such as Hanover Street, Hanover Square, or Maddox Street, 
in the Season, will command not less than £7 ys. In Blooms¬ 
bury, near the British Museum, similar accommodation may 
be had for £2 2s. or £3 3 s., and even for less out of the Season. 
For the bachelor who wants comfortable quarters at a moderate 
rental, say, from one guinea to a guinea and a half, no central 
district offers so many advantages as the Strand. In nearly 
all the streets south of it are to be found private hotels and 
lodging-houses, in which good bedrooms may be had from 
15s. 6 d. to £1 1.?. per week, in some instances including 
breakfast. Bury Street, Ryder Street, and Duke Street (St. 
James’s), are popular resorts for military and naval men. Bed¬ 
rooms may be had here for about £1 is. per week. In the 
Kensington and Bayswater and outlying suburbs, good rooms 
(2) may be had for ^1 is. or ^1 10s. per week. In London 
itself lodgings are more expensive than in the suburbs. 

It should be borne in mind that these prices ordinarily cover 
plain cooking, use of plate and linen, attendance, boot-cleaning, 
but not washing of table-linen, etc., unless specially agreed 
at time of hiring. Nearly all lodging-house keepers display 
a card—not too conspicuously the better class—notifying apart¬ 
ments to let. At the time of hiring, say explicitly whether 
you dine at home or not. Arrange with the landlady that you will 


Houses , “Flats” “Chambers” “Rooms” etc. 69 

order in everything for yourself. Civil and obliging tradespeople 
are to be met with everywhere in London, who will “ callfor 
orders ” every day without charge, thus saving the trouble of 
going to the shops. Bills are paid weekly; and a week’s 
notice is the general rule before vacating apartments, except 
when otherwise agreed upon. 

Boarding-houses, such as are common to most American cities, 
and many English 
watering-places, in¬ 
land and at the 
seaside, are rare in 
London. The board¬ 
ing-house of Boston 
or New York is a 
popular institution, 
frequented by all 
sorts and conditions 
of men and women. 

The London board¬ 
ing-house is chiefly a 
home for cultivated 
waifs, and one need 
not be afraid to de¬ 
clare that the cul¬ 
tivated waif is often 
the sweetest and 
most companionable 
person to be found 
in this unhappy planet. There are boarding-houses in Bayswater, 
Kensington, and Notting Hill, in the squares, crescents, and 
terraces of those districts, the residents of which are generally 
retired military men, with a sprinkling of colonists, ladies who 
have passed their girlhood without marrying (none the less 
cheerful, happy, and contented, for that), ladies whose lords 
are abroad, widows, and occasionally mothers with girls eligible 






70 


London of To-Day. 


for husbands. There are boarding-houses in Bloomsbury, where 
are to be found medical and other students of both sexes and 
sevejal nationalities, American folk passing through London, 
literary parsons “up ” for a week or two’s reading at the British 
Museum, brides and bridegrooms from the provinces, Bohemians 
pure and simple, and the restless gentlemen who are “ some¬ 
thing in the City,” but no one knows what. 

There are boarding-houses in the London suburbs—in Clap- 
ham, in Brixton, in Dulwich, in Putney, Highgate, Holloway, and 
the like, which shelter but two or three inmates, and to gain 
admission to which is often the securing all the privileges, rights, 
and comforts appertaining to a well-ordered and pleasant English 
home. Lastly, there is the boarding-house eastward of Finsbury 
Square and the shipping district of Leadenhall, which is fre¬ 
quented by English and American “ skippers,” and occasionally 
their wives, and the chief mates of their ships. 

In default of recommendations, the whereabouts of boarding¬ 
houses are best found by a careful study of the advertising 
columns of the London dailies or by publishing an advertisement 
setting forth what may be required in the way of accommodation 
and what the advertiser offers to pay for lodging and board per 
week. The charges per week vary from £$ 5s. in the more 
fashionable parts of London, to £2 2s. } £1 10s., and even £1 in 
the less desirable places. Board in a private family may some¬ 
time be had for a guinea and a half or two or three guineas per 
week ; but as few visitors will be at the trouble of searching for 
such accommodation we need not further refer to it. On the 
whole there are comparatively few boarding-houses of first- 
rate rank in London. Kensington is the favoured district for 
these. 


Luncheon and Tea; A Chapter for Ladies. 71 


Chapter IV. 

LUNCHEON AND TEA: A CHAPTER FOR LADIES. 



' I 'HERE are, as most of us know, two kinds of Luncheon : 

■** the substantial and the light. The first appeals rather to 
the robuster appetites of men than the fastidious tastes of women, 
and belongs more to the London restaurant and club than the 
modest refreshment place to which the daintier sex ordinarily 
resort. 

That we all eat quite too much in the course of every twenty- 
four hours—those of us at least who are not “ dockers,” and 
“that class of person”—doctors never tire of warning us. 
Fashion, however, has the whip-hand of the doctors, and until 
their patients contrive to get the whip-hand of Fashion, doctors 












72 


London of To-Day. 

may go on warning us till the crack of doom. Meanwhile, the 
Socialist demonstrator being not as yet forthcoming to lead us 
in our thousands to the Reformer’s Tree, there to try, condemn, 
and hang Fashion in effigy, we must needs proceed in our 
several ways to make of luncheon substantial dinners, and of 
dinner substantial suppers, as the tyrant dictates. Though 
women in the aggregate are in various ways more in bondage to 
the tyrant than men, women generally contrive to keep free from 
the rack and the thumbscrew which are the common tortures of the 
sterner sex, who will persist in harassing, worrying, and destroy¬ 
ing their digestions by too much eating and drinking. 

The light luncheon is the salvation of the women. The 
majority—the youthful and beautiful majority—would, we doubt 
not at times, rather by far their book of songs and sonnets than 
partake even of the lightest. Still we must all, like Mrs. Dombey, 
strive to “ make an effort; ” and an effort made upon a well- 
breaded cutlet, chipped potatoes, and a single glass of claret is 
more sustaining and life-preserving than the “ squarest meal ” 
(to use a vulgar phrase) of sweet 'food of sweetly-uttered 
knowledge. 

Ladies may partake of the cutlet, very nicely served, at the 
Burlington in Regent Street (rather expensive, though, is the bill); 
at the St. James’s Restaurant in Piccadilly; at the Parisian 
Restaurant on the east side of Regent Street (nearly opposite 
Lewis & Allenby’s); at the Circus Restaurant, Oxford Street; 
the grillroom of the Grand (downstairs) opposite Charing Cross 
Post Office; at Gatti’s Adelaide Gallery Restaurant, Strand; at 
the First Avenue Restaurant (belonging to the Hotel) in Holborn ; 
and in very elegant and expensive fashion at the Savoy Hotel in 
the Savoy. 

“The chop” (more national by far than le ros dzf) and vege¬ 
tables may be had everywhere; you can never go far wrong in 
ordering this modest meal in any of Spiers & Pond’s refreshment 
places at the railway stations, or at any hotel or restaurant 
within the length and breadth of London. It is the one safe 


Luncheon and Tea: A ^Chapter for Ladies. 73 



morsel of mutton to order, being so common to the bill of fare 
that everyone knows, or should know, how to cook it. The cost 
of this luncheon ought not to exceed is. 6 d. Try the Dorothy 
. Restaurant in Oxford Street (near Orchard Street) if you are 
among the number of those who “ detest to have men about the 
place.” Dorothy Restaurants admit no men. 

Such as cannot abear the smell of baked meats might try 
Bonthron’s and one or two confectioners in Regent Street, or the 
Aerated Bread Company’s defots (to be noticed in almost every 
leading thoroughfare) and find them to their liking. These last 
are good places, clean, and well-managed, supplying very fair 
coffee 
and tea, 
milk, and 
whole¬ 
some 
bread and 
butter, 
eggs, etc., - 
at mode¬ 
rate prices 
—5 d. for 
a cup of 

coffee and bread and butter. 

The confectioners opposite 
Charing Cross Railway 
Station are good resorts 
for tea and coffee. 

Than Gunter’s, in 
Berkeley Square, there is 
no better place in London 
for ices. The Vienna Cafe Restaurants, to be 
noticed here and there, have some repute in the 
same line (and for good coffee also) among gentlemen. Buszard’s, 
in Oxford Street, near the Pantheon, a first-rate place of its 





















74 


London of To-Day . 

class ; and Charbonel & Walker in Bond Street (west side), 
are favourite London confectioners, supplying sweet things in¬ 
numerable; the best somewhat expensive, but exhibiting many 
attractive Parisian novelties for Christmas-tide, the New Year, 
and other festive occasions. 

Fuller’s American Confectionery Depot in Regent Street (east 
side, nearly opposite Conduit Street) is in great repute just now 
for the latest novelties for dinner and supper tables. Its sweet¬ 
meats are “real American.” 

There is also a confectioner’s shop at the south-west corner of 
Bond Street, where afternoon tea may be had ; likewise at the 
several refreshment rooms of the Army and Navy Stores in 
Victoria Street, Westminster ; the Junior Army and Navy Stores, 
York House, Regent Street; the Civil Service Co-operative 
Society, 28, Haymarket; the Civil Service Supply Association, 
Queen Victoria Street, City (near St. Paul’s Station), open to 
ladies introduced by members. 

Vegetarianism may be practised at a restaurant near Duke 
Street, Oxford Street; at the Arcadian in Queen Street, Cheap- 
side ; or at the Apple Tree in London Wall, within the City, and 
rather out of the track of ladies. Those, however, most curious 
in the matter of vegetarian diet might take a peep into the Cen¬ 
tral Vegetarian Dining and Tea Rooms (a rough-and-ready sort 
of place in St. Bride Street, near Ludgate Circus), and read the 
prices and items therein exhibited of “Diners a la carte” “the 
sixpenny tea-tray,” and “the ninepenny tea-tray”—a marvellous 
assortment of homely and wholesome dishes of vegetables and 
of meal served at a very cheap rate. 








' 





• 































































A pretty incident in “ THE Grand's ” Drawing-room of which 
our Artist was unwilling spectator. 

“ Without the Smile from Partial Beauty won , 

what were Man ? A World without a Sun.” 




























































7 5 


u Where shall zue Dine ? ” 


Chapter V. 

“ WHERE SHALL WE DINE? 



HP HE English 
•*- palate is be¬ 
coming more re¬ 
fined, and French 
cooking more popu¬ 
lar in London- 
We have this 
on the author¬ 
ity of a well- 
known London 
chef , who 

broadly defines 
French 
cookery 
as “lighter, 
airier (‘airier’ 
is a vile word 
in this connection; 
but let it pass) and 
more delicate than 
the English, presenting a series of toothsome [and digestible 
compounds which lie easily upon the stomach.” The owner of 
the stomach must be a great fool, then, if he do not preferentially 
avail himself of French cookery. 

The trouble is, as Americans say, it is not always possible to 
do so. But we English are not too critical in the matter of 
cookery, and the Anglo-French will ofttimes—at all events in 


6 


76 


/ 


London of To-Day . 


London—pass muster for’ the French. The Anglo-French dinner 
is a sort of thimble-rig game with English dishes. Here’s the 
little dish, and there’s the little dictionary of French phrases. 
Hey, presto ! We produce the diners d la carte, vins a tous 
frix , and fain d discretion. We have, in fact, the dinner a la 
mode. Well, if the dinner a la mode be eatable, we get what 
,y.. we pay for. We cannot all afford to 
dine at three guineas a head ; and even 
if we could not many of us would 
be competent to discern accurately the 
difference between Tortue claire and 
clear turtle. 

"/ The Russians are a long way ahead 
of us, it seems, in the art of dis¬ 
covering what’s what when it 
passes up from the kitchen. 
Perhaps their ardent vodkhi 
touches the palate, and renders 
it more susceptible. However 
that may be, the chef of our own 
Grand Hotel gives an example 
in point: “ Bouillabaisse ,” he 
bids us remember (as if we did 
not all know it from the ballad) 
“is a famous Marseillaise dish 
of fish, garlic, and all manner of 
curious ingredients, which you 
may be sure is seldom asked for 
in a London hotel. [You may 
occasionally get it, by the way, 
at Verrey’s in Regent Street.] 
One day we had a Russian gentleman among our guests, and he 
asked for a dish of Bouillabaisse. I made it. He ate it. ‘ Is 
it right, sir?’ asked the waiter. ‘It wants something.’ In the 
Mediterranean is a certain shellfish which is always used in 












11 Where shall we Dine ? ” 


77 


preparing the dish, and which I not unnaturally did not possess. 
Not one person in a thousand would have noticed the difference. 
You see the Russian’s palate recognized even the nuances.” 
Just so ! The shades, the nice gradations, of French cookery we 
English don’t understand a bit, any more than we understand 
the nicer gradations of French wines; or we shouldn’t drink so 
much common Italian, and pay for it as higher class claret. But 
let’s henceforth study our French cookery in the schools. Paris, 
of course, is the chief university. If we cannot go to Paris, we 
must contrive to find out the best schools in London. 

Were we to answer this question of Dining for ourselves, we 
might suggest chez Emile (not to seem too familiar) absolument 
comme a Paris; in other words at the Amphitryon Club. 

As a matter of course, we have privately viewed the Amphi¬ 
tryon Club, latest addition to the clubs of London of To-Day. 
The courtesy of M. Emile Aoust, for ten years and more ?naitre 
d'hotel at Bignon’s—the maison Bignon, in the Avenue de 
l’Op6ra ; which house and avenue everyone who knows Paris 
knows—the courtesy of that distinguished master of /’ art gastro- 
nomique , aided us thus far. And M. Charles Mellier, well-known 
in London in the department of French decorative Art, was good 
enough to help us to a correct knowledge of his share in carrying 
out the order pure and simple of the administration—“absolutely 
as in Paris.” 

For hitherto in London, save here and there, we have had no 
Restaurant or dining-club absolument comme a Paris. Imitations 
we have had in plenty: Anglo-French as to the cuisine , and 
English as to the restaurant; or Anglo-German-Swiss as to the 
cookery and a nondescript flavour of Berlin, Boulogne gnd 
Adam Street, Adelphi, in respect of the architecture. Verrey’s 
229, Regent Street, is original and time-honoured. 

The Amphitryon Club, in Albemarle Street, well-known in 
by-gone London annals as the abode of one Grillon, master of 
the mystery of French cookery, at whose hotel Louis XVIII. 
received the homage of the French emigrant aristocracy, escaped 


73 


London of To-Day. 


from the havoc of the Revolution: the Amphitryon Club might 
serve as an example in little for London French Restaurants of 
the future. 

Exteriorly it is not much of a building to look at. The 
Criterion or Cafe Monico might comfortably swallow it. But 
it is the sort of place that would have admirably suited 
‘‘Original” Walker, barrister-at-law, and his brethren, who liked 
to dine. Rooms well adapted to comradeship and conversation ; 
furniture and decorations in pleasing illustration of the period 
of Louis XV. and XVI.; the business of the kitchen, the cellar, 
and the administration absolument 
comme a Paris. With the list of mem¬ 
bers we have no concern. Suffice it 
that it includes the first gentlemen in 
England, and his grace of this, the 
baron that, count the other, and many 
of equal rank and position of our own 
and foreign countries ; with a fair 
sprinkling of gentlemen, not the least 
of whose merits are that they appre¬ 
ciate a good 
dinner, and 
have good 
store of anec¬ 
dote and wit 
for serving-up, 
along with 
other refresh¬ 
ing matters at 
dessert. 

“I offer 
them,” says 

M. Emile Aoust, “a restaurant, comme il n'y en a pas a Paris. 
It is the maison Bigno?i } and something else besides. It is the 
Parisian restaurant plus the English club ; it is the trip to Paris, 















u Where shall we Dine ? " 


79 



minus the mal-de-mer. Here on the rez-de-chaussee is the 
restaurant—eighteen tables ; gargons from Paris ; maitre d'hotel 
from Paris; dames de comptoir from Paris. I myself, en habit 
noir y just as at Bignon’s, will be here from morning to night. 
You demand the Burgundies of 1865— les void; the grande 
fine of 1800— la voila; the St. Marceaux of 1884— il y en aura 
pour mo 7 isieur. Descend to the cuisine —eleven cuisiniers from 
Paris; ascend to the upper floors—private rooms, furniture, 
silver, decorations, as at the house in the Avenue de l’Opera. 
There is but one difference ; it costs you, not a five-pound note, 
but a shilling cab-fare to get to it.” 

Thus the chief of the administration to an evident admirer 
who writes in the always-instructive Globe newspaper. 

But we may take it as pretty certain, that if the Amphitryon 











8o 


London of To-Day. 

is not destined to be a mere fleeting fad ot the day, it will be 
the fore-runner of similar establishments elsewhere in London : 
establishments, that is to say, less huge, ornate and noisy, 
and more tasteful, cosy and quiet. That enterprising man will 
be a wise and enterprising man who shuts his purse and opens 
a Restaurant in London, less replete with gilt cornices and 
church windows above stairs, and where more art is discovered 
in the kitchen below. When we have an appetite for dinner, 
we do not want to feed upon very bad art, and trumpery 
decoration. It is an amazing thing that Restaurateurs do not 
see this. We fed very comfortably in days gone by, and, as it 
seems to us, at far less pretentious taverns and restaurants 
than those of London of To-Day. 

It it be an object of life to procure a dinner absolument comme 
a Paris (Louis XVI., by the way, whom we are so very fond of 
commemorating in our present day schemes of upstairs decora¬ 
tion, was glad enough to get a meal of bread and cheese, with a 
little Burgundy, in a very indifferent tavern, at one period of his 
life) : if it be an object to get a real French dinner in London, 
you tnay number the places where such a dinner may be had on 
your fingers. 

These (outside the clubs) are Verrey’s, certainly the best; the 
Cafe Royal, the Bristol, the Savoy, and perhaps, the Berkeley 
and Cafe Monico, among restaurants proper; and among hotels 
(by pre-consultation of authorities), the Grand, the Metropole, 
Savoy, the Burlington, and Brown’s (in Dover Street) 

For the rest, you may get a dinner in London for 9 d., for 1$., 
for is. 6 d., for 2 s. 6 d., for 5s., for ioj. You may satisfy your 
hunger at an “ A.B.C. shop ” for 5 d. We have eaten of a very 
palatable pea-soup (sold in jugs) for id. : a good deal more 
nourishing soup than the coloured, watery combination sold in 
electro mugs at railway refreshment rooms for thrice that sum. 
And in our London school days, we have eaten of eel-pies, of 
“ plum-duff,” baked potatoes, beef a la mode , and all the rest, and 
been none the worse for any; while our hunger has been appeased 


“ Where shall we Dine ? 


81 


at the cost ot 8 d. The dinner absolument comme d Londres is 
not a bad meal whichever way you approach it; provided, always 
provided (alas, for our own sufferings and feeble resistings of 
temptations in the dining way) you are not dyspeptic. 

Of banquets daily organized for the many, we know of few 
more likely to meet the requirements of the diner-about in 
London, and those to whom he proffers hospitality, than the 
table d'hote dinners of the Grand, Metropole, Victoria, and one 
or two other large hotels. Apart from the essential materials 
of the meal, with which there is little cause to grumble, the 
whole business of these daily banquets is well contrived and 
carried out. The dining-halls are well ventilated and spacious ; 
the assembled company in 
the Season comprises not 
a few people of the first 
fashion staying in London ; 
the tables are effectively 
arranged and decorated; 
a plenty of lights shows up 
the dresses of the ladies; 
and all is done in good 
taste, and with a view to 
the gratification of the eye, 
no less than the personal 
ease and contentment of 
the guests. 

One has but to take his 
place at the appointed table, 
glance at the menu laid 
before him, and proceed to 
the business of the evening, 
without care for the service 
or thought for the kitchen : the fair recompense demanded by the 
management for a seat at table being the sum of five shillings: 
not an extravagant charge, as charges elsewhere in London rule. 




82 


London of To-Day . 

No restaurants in London that we know are so desirable in respect 
of accommodation as the dining-room of the Grand and Metropole 
hotels. The reception-rooms are open for receiving your friends 
before dinner, and the drawing-rooms for chatting with them after 
dinner. 

The table-d'hote dinner is daily served in each case from 6 to 
8.30 p.m. For those later going to the opera or theatres, there 
are few better places in London, for the preliminary dinner. 
It is well in the busy season of summer, however, to order a 
table beforehand. The conveniences are many; the price fixed, 
and moderate; the dining-salons spacious; everything is done 
in good taste; and the dinner is generally superior to that to 
be had in a restaurant for the same money. 

It is of no little advantage to ladies coming to London, for 
the evening, from the suburbs or outlying districts to know of 
a place where they may dine in evening dress without seeming 
conspicuous, or intermingling with those whom they might be 
indisposed to meet. Either at the Grand Hotel or the Hotel 
Metropole they may be sure of the proprieties being very 
carefully observed. The tables, for the most part, are reserved to 
family parties, and visitors staying in the hotel; and the service 
of the dinner is so arranged as to allow of a very fair margin of 
time for partaking of it without hurry and discomfort. 

The Bristol Hotel, in Burlington Gardens, has a reputation 
among fashionable diners-about; but is somewhat expensive; 
and we may add that the chef of Brown’s and St. George’s 
Hotels, in Dover and Albemarle Streets, is equal to providing 
anything in the way of dinner, the most accomplished practiser 
of the art of Dining might devise. 

Of the Savoy Restaurant we have heard many fair things 
spoken, but generally with a remark upon the grand total of 
the bill. The Burlington Hotel in Cook Street has a reputation 
too, for attention to the affairs of the kitchen. 

At any of the undernamed places, then, the visitor cannot go 
wrong, even in contenting himself with the everyday dinner. 





Dinner at the Hotel Metropole 
















































































































































“ Where shall we Dine ? " 


83 


If he has a specially-prepared banquet in mind he may rest 
assured that he will be satisfied with the results alike in cookery, 
wines, and attention: 


The Grand Hotel. 

„ Hotel Metropole. 

„ Savoy Restaurant. 

„ Brown’s Hotel (Dover Street). 
,, Burlington Hotel (Cook Street). 


Verrey’s Restaurant (Regent Street). 
The Cafe Royal. 

„ Bristol (Burlington Street). 

,, Cafe Monico. 

,, Criterion, East Room. 


As regards popular dining-places with a French flavour, London 
has sufficient and to spare. Gatti’s in the Strand heads the list. 
It is a fine, striking, dining-hall, 
where a fair meal may be had 
at a fair price. It is in favour 
with those who cannot discover 
any difference between the Anglo- 
French dinner and the French, 
and do not care to ; and as a well- 
ordered luncheon and coffee resort 
it is entitled to notice. On the 
whole* it is deserving of all the 
patronage it gets, which is consi¬ 
derable ; and at the usual luncheon 
and dinner hours it is always 
crowded. Ladies will find 
the Strand and King William 
Street restaurants the 
more desirable. 




“A POPULAR DINING-PLACE WITH A FRENCH FLAVOUR.” 


















8 4 


London oj To-Day. 

We need hardly refer to the many dining-places of Spiers & 
Pond to whom Englishmen stand entirely indebted for the 
modern restaurant. They upset the time-honoured tavern 
system of London, and in place of its gloomy, primitive, not 
to say frouzy, refectories gave us commodious, well-appointed, 
attractive, airy dining-places, in which the food generally is good, 
the drinkables good, the service good, the tariff moderate. 

The Criterion in Piccadilly is the principal of their numerous 
places, where almost every class of dinner may be had, ranging 
in price from 2 s. 6 d. to a guinea or more per head. Next it 
ranks the Gaiety in the Strand ; and the Gaiety leads a long 
list of more or less popular establishments in the City,- at the 
railway stations, and elsewhere. Spiers & Pond are the great 
caterers for London of To-Day. 

We have already named the East Room at the Criterion. It is 
convenient for the man who likes to dine—the man who in this 
matter preaches and practises the teaching of Rousseau, s'abstenir 
pour jouir, c'est Vepicurisme de la raison. Such disciples of 
Epicurus need go no farther than Piccadilly or Regent Street. 

For an English dinner and generous wines let us commend “the 
Old Tavistock” in Covent Garden: for a dinner, that is to say, 
to which gentlemen alone are invited, for the Tavistock rigidly 
excludes ladies. Possibly, there were few in the Covent Garden 
quarter when it first opened its doors as breakfast-rooms now 
some hundred years ago. The tavern then took the place of the 
club, to which as we know even to-day ladies are seldom wel¬ 
comed. A capital dinner maybe had here by pre-arrangement— 
as Mr. Robert would say, “ a fust-rate, real old English dinner” 
—such as our grandfathers revelled in. The cellars contain 
some excellent wines: Port and Madeira of the oldest. 

The Burlington Restaurant in Regent Street is of first-rate 
reputation, and much favoured by ladies on shopping 01 sight¬ 
seeing bent, or indulging in a little change from the ordinary 
home-routine. 

Blanchard’s, in Beak Street, Regent Street, is a capital place for 





The East Room at the Criterion. 

























































































































“ Where shall we Dine?” 


85 


the time-honoured English dinner—the soup, fish, and the joint 
business. It can serve good wines too. But it is unpleasantly 
“stuffy” and crowded, especially between 1 and 2.30, and 6 and 8. 

The Midland Grand Hotel at St. Pancras offers a large and 
varied cuisine, and is well looked after every way. Its charges 
are moderate, and it can serve as excellent a dinner as is to be 
had in London. 

The Continental, in Regent Street, has attractions for gentle¬ 
men, and is credited with providing good cookery. 

There is a good restaurant, by the way, on Ludgate Hill, the 
Cafe de Paris: well-managed and supplying a well-cooked meal 
at a moderate price. It enjoys a large German connection, and 
provides good beer of the German brew, and good German wines. 

The huge building, fronting the east end of Piccadilly, named 
the Cafe Monico, has been sumptuously refurnished and deco¬ 
rated, and enjoys a large share of the patronage of the foreign 
element of London. 

It is needless to point out, what is apparent to every by-passer 
in the streets, that the Italian restaurateur finds London to his 

liking. In almost every 
^ thoroughfare in and 
out of London, the 
city and suburbs 
alike, he may be 
found plying his 
trade of cheap con¬ 
fectionery, chocolate, ices, 
lemonade, in some instances 
fair Italian wines, and tolerable 
cookery. Some of these rest¬ 
aurants are not to be despised, 
and we remember one or two 
that are exceptionally good. 
But the visitor will have to 
pay for his experience in testing the merits of such places. Try 








86 


London of To-Day. 


Torrino’s, 45, Oxford Street; Pagani’s, in Great Portland Street ; 
and Pinoli’s, in the Strand, eastward of Wellington Street. 

Kettner’s, in Church Street, Shaftesbury Avenue, has a 
reputation rather of yesterday than of to-day. Torrino’s, afore¬ 
said (on the south side of Oxford Street nearly opposite the 
Music Hall), is entitled to mention as a supper-resort. 

Everyone knows the Holborn Restaurant, with its splendid 
marble columns, rich ornamentation, attractive upholstery, 
spacious accommodation, and musical dinners. It is a favourite 
resort of visitors and others, for whom a cheap and liberal 
table-d'hote dinner has attractions, with the additional allure¬ 
ment of music. The evening, of course, is the time for dining 
here ; though the Grillroom and Luncheon Bar are very 
popular at midday. The former is one of the handsomest places 
of the kind in London. Indeed, the whole building is well 
worth seeing: the Private dining-rooms included. 

Writing of London grill-rooms, which are common Luncheon 
resorts now, as well for ladies as for gentlemen, one of the best 
and most central is that of the “ Grand,” nearly opposite Charing 
Cross Post Office. It is not at all expensive : is. 6 d., or there¬ 
about, for a particularly well-served “chop,” vegetables and bread. 

You will get an English dinner, at a moderate price, and served 
in good style, at the First Avenue Hotel Restaurant in Holborn. 
We have been well satisfied here (and with a bottle of very fair 
claret to boot) for a few shillings. There is also a grill-room and 
buffet attached, which, as regards the former, is well patronized 
by ladies to whom the Holborn shopping resorts are a source of 
periodical pleasure; and, as regards the latter, by lawyers and 
business men. The charges are reasonable, and the fare liberal. 

Simpson’s, in the Strand, is about the only London dining- 
place which seems to keep to the old fashion of a quarter of 
a century ago, and to flourish. But the old fashion at 
Simpson’s was better than the new. 

As to chop-houses redolent of literary and other memories, 
these no longer exist. The Cock, and let’s hope the old 




t 



The Holborn Restaurant. 




7 


* 































































“ Where shall we Dine?” 


87 

Tennysonian quotation about the plump head waiter, have been 
struck out of guide-books; and the reputation of the steak- 
puddings of the Cheshire Cheese is no longer passed from 
triend to friend. Dolly’s has long since vanished, and the 
Chapter Coffee-house is brand new. The Guildhall Tavern 
lives, and daily shelters many a disciple of the old fashion 
of English dining, which perhaps is best studied in the City, and 
by him whose capacity for mock turtle, turbot, beef, and port 
is no less admirable than the British drayman’s for beer. 

In the Strand are one or two noticeable dining-places, The 
Tivoli, for example. 

There are some excellent lunching-places and restaurants 
within the City. Among establishments of its class, Sweeting’s, 
at the north-west corner of Cheapside, fronting Newgate Street, 
takes the lead. Nowhere will you eat oysters in greater 
perfection, or, in season, taste of a more refreshing salad of 
lobster, salmon, or dressed crab. 

The Queen Anne Restaurant, 27, Cheapside, deserves to be 
named as a well-managed restaurant, moderate in respect of 
tariff, and with good daily bill of fare. 

Pimm’s, in the Poultry, is a luncheon place for anyone 
who is tough of muscle and even of temper, who does not 
mind, in fact, a little mud on his boots or his coat being torn 
in striving to get a sandwich. Tall gentlemen who are adepts 
in a supper-room scrimmage in a West End mansion will come 
off best at Pimm’s—at least between the hours of 12.30 and 2. 
It is no place for frail lads or for men less than the inferior 
limit of standard height for infantry. 

There are one or two out-of-town dining-places which may be 
named here, though their fame is rather of the past than of the 
present. The Ship Hotel at Greenwich may be mentioned. The 
view on a fine summer evening at time of high water from its 
windows overlooking the Thames, is one of unusual interest. 
But for the pleasure of a seat at one of those windows one is 
expected to pay pretty handsomely. The time, however, is gone 


88 London of To-Day. 

by for whitebait dinner parties. The fashions are changed, and 
Greenwich no longer does the thriving business it once did in 
summer, in serving that little fish to bachelors, and others, who 
ordinarily dined not wisely but too well. 

The Star and Garter at Richmond was once - in great repute. 
It still does a fair business in the summer season ; but its 
dining-room is not so crowded as it used to be. 

The most moderate in respect of charges of the out-of-town 
resorts is the Wheatsheaf at Virginia 
Water; and we are bound to say 
it deserves support, not merely 
on that account, but for the charm 
of its situation and delightful 
surroundings. 

On Sunday, if one should be com¬ 
pelled to dine away from his hotel or 
lodgings, he must arrange to take his 
principal daily meal either between 
i and 3, or after 6 afternoon. The 
London restaurants are closed till i, 
and between 3 and 6. Dining-places 
are usually full on Sunday nights, 
being largely patronized by gen¬ 
tlemen who treat their wives and 
daughters to a mild dissipation to 
break the monotony of Sunday, or 
by more conscientious folk who dine out to give their servants 
a rest. 






Hyde Park in the Season. 












































































































Some Places of Fashionable Outdoor Resort. 89 


Chapter VI. 


SOME PLACES OF FASHIONABLE OUTDOOR 
RESORT. 


A /f RS. DELANY, in a letter to her great 
friend the Duchess of Portland, re¬ 
marks, “What company is in town you are 
sure of meeting in the Park.” And what was 
true of her day remains true of our own. To 
find out “who’s in town,” meaning to engage 
in the occupation of critically surveying from 
an open carriage the youth, beauty, celebrity, 
and wealth of the town, is one of the earlier 
pleasures of the London season. This may 
be enjoyed to most advantage in the parks, 
but especially Hyde Park, where the upper 
classes of the English fashionable world con¬ 
gregate between 5 and 7 o’clock, partly to 
take the air, but chiefly to see and be seen. There is no finer 
sight in London than “ the drive ” on a June afternoon. The most 
stately mansions in Mayfair, Belgravia and Tyburnia, contribute 
to the gay throng of distinguished personages who, for the space 
of two hours, in stately procession, two carriages deep, drive 
round and round the Ladies’ Mile. In the morning, between 
11 and 1, the ride called Rotten Row—a wide avenue flanked 
by trees extending along the southern boundary of the park—is 
crowded with ladies and gentlemen on horseback, representatives 
of “ the upper ten.” The singular name of this thoroughfare, 
we may parenthetically remark, is sometimes said to be a corrup¬ 
tion of Route du Roi, or King’s Road; but Timbs mentions that 
it is derived from the word rotteran, meaning to muster, and 








90 


London of To-Day . 

that its origin is traceable to the military reviews which used to 
be held here. The name is libellous and unpleasing, and might 
well be changed for another that would do justice to the delight¬ 
ful avenue; some name that might reflect the soft, translucent 
foliage that borders it in summer, or the flowers which are bedded 
in rich masses along its walks, or the distinction that belongs to 
its frequenters. 

Rotten Row is the entrance-way of the London fashionable world. 
Nowhere else is the assemblage so aristocratic, so little diluted with 
the streams of inferior humanity. Shabbiness never ventures here. 
Seated in one of the chairs along “ the Row ” at the proper hour 
of the day, one may catch a glimpse of the most notable people 
in London : now of a Cabinet minister ; now of a famous ambas¬ 
sador or foreign prince; now of a popular bishop; now of a 
leading Radical M.P.; now of the Prince of Wales and his sons ; 
now of a City magnate and ruler of the financial world ; now of 
some famous artist, actor, or popular author. The dress of the 
riders is faultless as the horses they ride. For aught one can 
discern in Rotten Row on a Midsummer morning, all the world 
is prosperous, dignified, well-tailored, and well-groomed. There 
is no such thing as poverty, and no such thing as work ; all the 
world is bent on pleasuring. Occasionally the music of the band 
of a regiment of Life or Horse Guards, stationed at Hyde Park 
barracks, lends strength to the illusion. 

Royal and aristocratic wealth and state, whatever other results 
they may have had upon English growth and society, have 
at least conferred upon London its chief embellishments and 
adornments ; and chief among these are its Parks. Had not 
Henry VIII. desired a park within reach of Whitehall, in which 
to lounge away an idle hour, and to hunt the deer, this magnifi¬ 
cent possession of four hundred acres would probably long since 
have passed into the energetic hands of the builder. Hyde Park, 
indeed, remained a royal park, to which none but the Sovereign 
and the Court people were admitted, for centuries after Henry had 
for ever done with beheading wives and defying Rome. The 


Some Places oj Fashionable Outdoor Resort. 91 

people, however, in time acquired the privilege of wandering at 
will over the royal domain ; and it now, as everyone knows, 
belongs to the people who, truth to say, the fashionable habitues 
of “ the season ” notwithstanding, find ample enjoyment in its 
unfenced meadows and beautiful walks. The restrictions which 
confront one in many pleasure-grounds are here absent; and the 
purpose of public recreation is not defeated by arbitrary warnings 
against going this way or going that. 

KENSINGTON GARDENS. 

A drive down Piccadilly, past Hyde Park, as far as the Cavalry 
Barracks, places one within ten minutes’ walk of Kensington 
Gardens. 

These gardens, which lie contiguous to, and practically form a 
part of, Hyde Park, and for which the 
public is indebted to the taste of William 
of Orange, Queen Anne, and Caroline, 
the complacent queen of George II., 
have been a favourite resort of Londoners 
for more than a century and a half. “ The 
ladies of Queen Anne’s days here loved to 
display their rich brocades and glossy 
damasks, while the wits and politicians 
of the Augustan age exchanged polished 
sarcasms on Stuart or Hanoverian, accord¬ 
ing to the political likings of the speaker’s 
J party.” What was at that time the close 
preserve of the Court and aristocracy is now a public park 
lor the people ot Bayswater and Kensington. Nursery-maids 
and children in the morning, and their elders and betters in the 
afternoon, have taken the place of the Court ladies and the wits 
of the “ Augustan age.” “The Gardens,” separated from “the 
Park” by a sunken wall and a bridge across the Serpentine, 
are a triumph of the landscape gardener’s art. The trees 



92 


London of To-Day, 


are planted with discrimination, and the foliage is luxuriant. 
The surface undulates, and the paths wind now along the shore 
of a lake, now under a leafy archway, and now into an open 
space, bedded out with flowers of brilliant hues. Kensington 
Palace, which adds somewhat to the picturesqueness of the 
Gardens, was originally the residence of the Earl of Nottingham, 
and was purchased from him by William III. Within it Queen 
Mary, the consort of that king, died; and Queen Anne subse¬ 
quently occupied it, giving those splendid fetes, which were 
attended by all the great world of London, attired in 11 brocaded 
robes, hoops, flycaps, and fans.” She, too, died within its walls; 
and in it also died George II., who, with Queen Caroline, had 
spent most of his time in it. It became the home of the Duke 
and Duchess of Kent, to whom, on the 24th of May, 1819, was 
born Alexandrina Victoria, her present Majesty. It was here 
that news was brought her of the death of William IV., she 
receiving the messengers just as she had left her bedroom, “ in a 
loose white nightgown and shawl, her nightcap thrown off, and 
her hair falling upon her shoulders, her feet in slippers, tears in 
her eyes, but perfectly collected and dignified.” The Broad 
Walk in Kensington Gardens used to be—we do not know 
whether it may be so now—the fashionable promenade of the 
wealthier inhabitants of Bayswater and Kensington on Sunday 
afternoons, between four and six o’clock. Within five minutes’ 
walk of Kensington Gardens, adjacent to the Royal Albert Hall, 
on the southern side of the unfortunate Horticultural Society’s 
garden, the imposing structure of the Imperial Institute of the 
United Kingdom, the Colonies, and India, has been raised. 


st. james’s and the green parks. 

It was Henry VIII. who unconsciously endowed the inhabit¬ 
ants of London with what promised at one time to be the prettiest 
of all the parks—that which takes its name from St. James’s 
Palace. But there is nothing here, remarks a recent chronicler 



Rotten Row. 
























































Some Places of Fashionable Outdoor Resort. 93 

of London, “ to fill a man with envy by reminding him of the un¬ 
equal distribution of the world’s honours and riches ; whatever his 
poverty may be, he can find rags to match his own ; and if he be 
splenetic, he may, as Goldsmith says, meet companions with 
whose groans he may mingle his own. The pinched faces of the 
‘ lower orders ’ (as the labouring classes are called in England), 
may be seen as often as others; and the hands are not dainty 
which share the contents of wicker luncheon-baskets and paper 
parcels with the water-fowl on the lake, which are said to be the 
direct descendants of those introduced by Charles II.” This is 
so within the park, no doubt, though at times of the day and 
at certain periods of the year it makes some show of gentility. 
Being on the high-road to the clubs and Government Offices, a 
steady stream of “ swells ” flows daily through the “ Mall; ” and 
on “lev€e” and “drawing-room” days it is thronged with gay 
carriages, whose occupants are proceeding to pay their respects 
to royalty. To the student of contemporary manners, the hour 
between one and two, afternoon, passed in St. James’s Park on 
these occasions (the daily papers announce the dates) will bring 
some entertainment. 

The Green Park, in the very midst of the aristocratic quarter, 
adjoins Piccadilly on one side and St. James’s on the other. It 
consists principally of greensward, but there are some fine trees 
in the north-western part, and some pretty flower-beds. The 
broad road crossing the park to Buckingham Palace is called 
Constitution Hill, at the top of which stands the equestrian statue 
of the first Duke of Wellington. The great improvement effected 
by the enlargement and widening of Hyde Park Corner deserves 
mention. 


regent’s park. 

Unlike the noble series of parks we have noticed, extending 
from Whitehall to Kensington, Regent’s Park, north-westward of 
Oxford Street, was never a royal resort, and may be said to date 
from to-day. The largest of all, it was laid out under the 


94 


London of To-Day. 

direction of the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV., in the 
year 1812. It was formed out of crown lands, and derived its 
name from the title of the royal gentleman who gave it to the 
people. It is a beautiful open space, enriched with lakes, plan¬ 
tations, shrubberies, and beds of flowers. North of it rises the 
broad, gradual slope and cone-like summit of Primrose Hill, 
worn bare these many years by the feet of the multitude, 
having scarce any foliage, but with a look-out over London from 
the top which might have delighted the contemplative eye of 
Professor Teufelsdrockh. The park is surrounded by extensive 
ranges of buildings, forming terraces, variously designated. On 
the western limit is the cosy and pleasant district of St. John’s 
Wood, with its little secluded cottages and villas. On the oppo¬ 
site, eastern, side of the park is that land of semi-suburban 
lodging-houses and comfortable retreats, Kentish Town; and a 
little farther off the somewhat more prosperous Camden Town ; 
while just north of these are the picturesque heights of Hamp¬ 
stead and of Highgate, redolent of memories of Coleridge, Lamb, 
Leigh Hunt, Keats and Shelley. 


THE BOTANICAL GARDENS 

are situated in the Regent’s Park, occupying the chief part of the 
space within the inner circle. They are supplied with a rich 
collection of exotic, as well as native, plants ; and hither, at cer¬ 
tain seasons of the year, on certain days (duly advertised in the 
daily papers), come a multitude of fashionable folk to the exhi¬ 
bitions and flower shows of the Royal Botanic Society. The 
Spring Exhibitions of Plants and Flowers usually take place on 
Wednesdays in the last week of March and April; the Summer 
Exhibitions of Plants, Flowers, and Fruits on Wednesdays in 
May and June. The great attraction of the year is the Evening 
Fete and Floral Exhibition, which takes place on Wednesday 
early in July. There are also “special exhibitions” during May 
and June, and “ promenades ” every Wednesday, from the first 


Some Places of Fashionable Outdoor Resort. 95 

Wednesday in May to the first Wednesday in August. Admis¬ 
sion by strangers is obtained through the courtesy of Fellows of 
the Society, and on special occasions by payment. The first 
page of the Times , or the fourth of the Daily News , will afford 
information on this point during the season. 


THE ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS 

occupy a triangular space of about fifteen acres at the northern 
end of the Broad Walk, and along the Regent’s Canal. This 
place has long been the pride of London, and no expense or 
care has been spared to make it the most interesting and 
complete zoological exhibition in the world. The “Zoo” in time 
past was as favourite a fashionable resort as Rotten Row. It 
was the custom of the “ upper ten ” to resort thither on Sunday 
afternoons, and promenade in its pleasant avenues enlivened by 
the sights and sounds of a bewildering variety of the animal 
world. As admission to these Sunday rendezvous was only to 
be had by permits from a Fellow of the Society, the general 
public were excluded, and the “ best people ” had the spacious 
grounds to themselves. In later years the “ Zoo ” has become 
less fashionable on Sundays, though this day is still set apart 
for the admission of Fellows and their friends. 

In striking contrast with these exclusive gatherings is the 
multitude which invades the “Zoo” on] Monday, which is 
the “popular-price” day, when a sixpence opens the gate to the 
neediest. Then you may see troops of sturdy, good-natured 
wondering folk—men, women, and children—who come thither, 
not to see each other, but to stand amazed at the animal show, 
to ride on the elephants and camels, and see the hungry lions 
fed, and gaze amused at the ridiculous antics of the monkey com¬ 
munity in their cage. On other days the price of admission is a 
shilling, and large crowds of people frequent the “ Zoo ” on 
Saturday afternoons, when a cavalry band discourses music near 
the refreshment pavilion. 


96 London of To-Day. 

The Refreshment Pavilion, by the way, is now in the hands of 
Messrs. Spiers & Pond, Limited. Now, perhaps, the holiday 
public, which so largely frequents the Zoological Gardens, and 
which has at least as much claim to have its hunger appeased as 
the greater carnivora will have its wants in that direction 
attended to. The Pavilion in former times was one of the 
worst and most expensive refreshment places in London. In 
that respect it was about on a par with Mugby Junction, of 
time-honoured fame. 



























* 











































* 



























































































































The Grand Staircase, Buckingham Palace 





































































































































































































































































































































































































































































The Court: Draiving-rooms and Levees. 97 


Chapter VII. 

THE COURT: DRAWING-ROOMS, LEVEES, BALLS, 
AND RECEPTIONS. 



E have somewhere 
read that the origin 
of etiquette is Eng¬ 
lish. An English 
gardener in the 
service —- if our 
memory serve—of 
Louis XV. was 
harassed by the 
havoc made among 
his flower-beds at 
Trianon by the 
gentlemen of the 
Court stepping 


upon them. He complained to the king, who gave permission 
for a ticket to be placed in a conspicuous position warning off 
such inconsiderate trespassers. To the surliness of an English¬ 
man we are therefore principally indebted for that little word 
which still governs the grand world, and in no small degree 
limits the privileges of those who belong to the lesser. 

“After all, what is etiquette?” asks Madame Campan. 
“ Nothing but a symbol of the involuntary respect which man¬ 
kind pays to courage, genius, glory, or virtue.” True politeness 
disdains ceremony, as when we ask our familiar friend to “ come 
and take potluck; ” and true greatness may dispense with it, 
as when H R.H. the Prince behaves “just for all the world the 
same as you and I,” which by the way is an exact description of 



98 London of To-Day. 

H.R.H.’s carriage on an important occasion, delivered to us by 
one present who happened to take note of it. 

“All ceremonies,” remarks Lord Chesterfield, the Great, “are 
in themselves very silly things; but yet a man of the world 
should know them ” [his lordship forgot the women]. “ They are 
the outworks of manners and decency which would be too often 
broken in upon, if it were not for that defence, which keeps the 
enemy at a proper distance.” The “ outworks ” are well planned 
and regulated by officials of the Queen’s Court. Not so strong 
as they were, they are yet sufficiently so to deter a good many 
from attempting to override or break them down. 

The Queen’s Drawing-rooms, of which four are held in every 
year, preserve the few remaining relics of the etiquette of the 
English Court. It is etiquette for these (or at least two of them) 

to be held in London shortly 
after noon in the early days of 
treacherous spring. It is eti¬ 
quette for ladies to appear at 
them with plumes, lappets, and 
trains, in full dress with low 
bodices and short sleeves—this 
regulation has been lately some¬ 
what relaxed—though the damp 
rigour of the climate of London 
in March and April is hardly less 
trying than the dry rigour of the 
plains of Siberia. It is etiquette 
for the lappets to hang down 
and the plumes to be so worn 
that they may be visible in the 
Presence : “ one long feather 
drooping at the side and two 
curling over towards the face.” And it is essential, if not 
etiquette, for the young and older ladies who pay this due and 
voluntary respect to their Sovereign to cultivate the necessary 







Front of Buckingham Palace (Unfamiliar to the Public). 







































































































































The Court; Drawing-rooms and Levees. 9 $ 

presence of mind for the final ceremony of the Presence- 
chamber, while submitting to the ribald jeers of ribald boys 
and men, in a public thoroughfare, in a close carriage, blocked 
by other carriages, on a bleak day in depressing March, or fickle 
and capricious April, in the town of London. 

Everyone who has taken his full of history can trace the 
origin of the Drawing-room which is now always held at Buck¬ 
ingham Palace. It is a survival of the ancient custom of Royalty 
to dine in public, as the Levee is of that of receiving persons of 
high rank while the Sovereign was completing his toilette. At 
the Court of Louis XIV. the change of clothing was a solemn 
function, one peer having the right to hand the monarch his 
shirt, and another to hold a candle while he removed that gar¬ 
ment to don his nightgown. It is easily seen from Pepys and 
and St. Simon that the old custom of the drawing-room was 
that all properly-qualified persons, having sufficient quarterings 
or powerful protectors, were allowed to come and go about the 
palace during the evening, and gamble if they liked at le jeu du 
roi , the king’s table being kept for him by some nobleman in 
whom he had confidence. This is the undoubted origin of 
public gaming-tables, and was developed to great lengths by the 
prince-bishops and other small German potentates, as well as 
by the patricians of Venice. 

In the reign of George II. the scandal of such proceedings as 
Charles allowed at Whitehall was attenuated to a reception 
every evening, when “ all persons properly dressed,” and, we 
may suppose, presented, were admitted while the Royal Family 
amused themselves playing at cards. By degrees this compara¬ 
tive freedom of intercourse between sovereign and subject was 
diminished. After the death of Queen Caroline receptions were 
held only twice a week, and later still the king gave up even¬ 
ing receptions, an/d held his state earlier in the day, a practice 
confirmed by George IV., and continued ever since. 

This simple explanation tells why colourless dowagers and 
shivering damsels are now called upon to don evening or ball- 


100 


London of To-Day, 


room attire on cold spring mornings and present a ridiculous 
spectacle to ribald spectators in the Mall and St. James’s Park. 
Perhaps old Court customs and modern Court rules had better 
be left to antiquaries and gentlemen ushers. In the light of day 
they seem a little ridiculous ; and doubtless, in a few years to 
come, will be merely interesting as the gossip of history. 

We need not here enter upon the Regulations to be observed 
by those proposing to attend the Queen’s Drawing-room. These 
are duly recorded in the office of the Lord 
Chamberlain (Stable Yard, St. James’s 
Palace), and may be had on application. 
As to the dress most suitable to the occa¬ 
sion, we dare not venture on such delicate 
ground. Madame Kate Reily, Messrs. Lewis 
& Allenby, and a dozen other equally com¬ 
petent authorities may readily be consulted ; 
and, doubtless, whatever is most becoming 
and befitting for each lady will be forth¬ 
coming at the right moment. 

Levees are conducted somewhat on the 
same plan, but are confined exclusively to 
men, who wear uniform or Court dress, 
and the presiding Royal personage is now 
H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, and the place 
of the Levee St. James’s Palace. The old 
Court dress, sometimes seen now, comprised 
shoes with buckles, satin or velvet breeches, 
a cloth coat, with that curious appendage a bag wig, and richly 
embroidered waistcoat with lace ruffles, a cocked hat, and sword. 
About fifteen or sixteen years ago the Lord Chamberlain an¬ 
nounced that dark cloth trousers of the same colour as the 
coat, with narrow gold stripes down the sides, might be 
worn at Levees, but breeches are, we believe, part of the full 
dress for Drawing-rooms. The coat is of a form known 
as a dress coat, single-breasted, with gilt buttons, and a 



The Court: State Concerts and Balls. IOI 

straight collar, embroidered, as are the cuffs and pocket flaps. 
A white waistcoat, white tie and cocked hat, and sword 
complete the 
suit. It may 
be in velvet or 
in cloth. On 
certain days of 
the year, the so- 
called “ Collar 
days,” high 
diplomatic and 
distinguish ed 
personages 
wear the collars 
and badges of 
the Garter, 

Thistle, St. Patrick, Bath, and other Orders of Knighthood. 

Two State Concerts and two State Balls are ordinarily held 

every year at Buckingham 
Palace, and comprise the 
principal State festivities of 
the London Season. A 
“ command ” to either should 
place an enterprising and 
ambitious lady on the high 
road to invitations for any 
number of lesser functions 
organized by individual mem¬ 
bers of the aristocracy. The 
Times newspaper after the 
event advertises the names 
of the invited in full so that 
he (or she) that runs may 
read. When the Season is in full swing, that Times advertise¬ 
ment should be worth considerably more than its weight 







102 


London of To-Day. 

in gold. The Morning Post, true to its old-time policy of 
mainly recording the doings of Royalty and haut ton, is another 
valuable vehicle of communication as to who’s invited where. 
When the “where” is the Palace, it is needless to say that 
the names of the “whos in” are keenly scrutinized by the 
“ whos ” left out. Though, by the way, the invited to State 
ceremonials are mostly limited to those with some official claim 
to appear at them. Ladies on such occasions wear ordinary 
full evening dress, but gentlemen appear in Court dress or 
uniform. 

The State Concerts, at which the best professional singers 
perform, are held in the grand concert-room of the Palace. 
A fine organ is at one end, with huge standard candlesticks 
in front; the Royal Family occupying an alcove at the opposite 
side of the apartment. All the rooms are thrown open, and 
in certain of them refreshments are served. All the high Court 
and State Officials and Yeomen of the Guard are in attendance. 
An invitation is deemed “ command,” and the company are 
supposed to be in their places before the Royal Family enter. 
At the Balls, Royalty begins the dancing with a quadrille at the 
upper end of the room; afterwards it becomes general. There 
is always on these occasions a magnificent display of dresses, 
flowers, and plate. The lighting is very effective, and the rooms 
of course brilliant in every degree. A State Ball is a splendid 
sight, once seen not likely to be forgotten; though to those 
invited, outside the charmed circle of the best society it may 
be a dull affair. 

The Prince and Princess of Wales generally give a Ball in the 
Season at Marlborough House, when the list of guests includes 
“ the cream of society ” and those /amous in all branches of the 
professional, artistic, and political world. The popular and 
beautiful Princess of Wales receives her guests, and both host 
and hostess dance most of the evening, and enter into the 
entertainment with spirit. One of the last events of the Season 
usually is a Garden Party at Marlborough'House. The grounds 


103 


The Court: Balls , Receptions , etc. 

and the house itself are very charming, and well arranged. The 
Prince and Princess also in most years give a “ Royal Picnic ” 
at Virginia Water, at the conclusion of the festivities of the 
Ascot week. Many of the chief balls of the London Season 
are honoured by the presence of princes. 

Subscription dances, under the patronage of a long list of 
ladies, are given at the Town Hall, Kensington, and Prince’s 
Hall, Piccadilly, both capital places for dancing, with good 
floors, ample space, and surroundings of comfort and prettiness. 
In order to join any of these, it is necessary to be introduced 
by a steward or patroness, from whom vouchers are obtained. 
Surplus money is handed to a charity. The cost is not great; 
for six of the best, including refreshments, £2 ioj. At 
Chelsea Town Hall in the Winter Season similar subscription 
dances are held. 

























































104 


London of To-Day . 

Before the erection of these buildings London was badly off 
in the way of ballrooms. Most of the public balls were held 
at Willis’s Rooms, where “ Almack’s ” flourished. 

Willis’s Rooms are no longer the chosen resort of youth and 
beauty. The capital Whitehall Rooms of the Metropole have 
taken their place. The larger number of the “ swell ” Balls and 
Dances of London are now given here, and a good many private 
ones too; and a right pretty and effective scene many of them 
present. We might name one that “ drew all the town,” 
when a fair year’s income was spent upon floral decorations 
alone. But that was a Ball in honour of the most charming 
lady-representatives of the theatrical art, who can always, as we 
know, command a prodigious shower of costly bouquets when¬ 
ever they have a mind to communicate their personal wishes 
to any half-dozen of their legions of male admirers. The Royal 
Caledonian Ball and that of the Wiltshire Society, the Shrievalty 
and Logic Club Balls, and a host of others arranged by wealthy 
and well-known people, are held at the Whitehall Rooms, where 
everything is done in capital style from the programme to the 
supper. 

When Parliament meets, the political receptions begin. These 
are all much of a kind, on whichever side in politics the givers 
happen to be. The throng come and go from about io to 12, and 
the more crowded the more successful. Sometimes there is a 
band; often the only attraction is seeing and being seen. 
A buffet with light refreshment is set in one of the rooms. 
None of these reunions are so celebrated nowadays as those 
held by Lady Palmerston and Lady Waldegrave, though I.ord 
Hartington hospitably throws open the doors of Devonshire 
House, and Lady Salisbury collects crowds in Arlington Street. 
The ambassadors in diplomatic uniform, and ministers in their 
blue and gold, give life and colour to the affair. Ministers and 
the Diplomatic Corps, too, entertain a great deal. 

Whether as regards political or social entertainments, the 
entree is only obtained into the charmed circle, for strangers, 


The Court: Receptions and Dances. 105 

by personal introductions, or through their own embassies on 
some occasions. 

The Lady Mayoress usually holds receptions at the Mansion 
House on stated days in June and July, from 3 to 5, afternoon. 
The Grosvenor Club, in Bond Street, and the Lyric Club, in 
Coventry Street, have “ladies’ nights,” which are among the 
fashionable entertainments of the day. The Grosvenor Club is 



a recent development of fashionable London, and its ladies’ 
gatherings are also among recent successes. 

The Soiree of the Royal Academy, at Burlington House, 
usually given in the middle of June, is an event to which 
fashionable London looks forward with interest. The Evening 
Fete and Special Exhibition of the Royal Botanic Society in 
July is another, and perhaps the most delightful of all the 
entertainments arranged for the special delight of London 





io6 London of To-Day. 

society. An open-air fete within reach only of the very select 
is that arranged by the officers of the Household Cavalry, when 
the “ I Zingari ” match with officers of the Life or Horse Guards 
takes place at Windsor, generally in presence of members of the 
Royal Family. Another (before mentioned) is the Royal Picnic 
at the Fishing Temple and Cottage, Virginia Water, a charming 
pleasure-ground. The Annual Reception of the President and 
Council of the Royal Society at Burlington House, is generally 
held in May. The President receives a large number of the 
most distinguished scientific men of the day, and entertains his 
guests, among other things, with a sight of many scientific 
curiosities, curious drawings of anthropological studies, sketches, 
maps, etc. The Benchers of the Inner and Middle Temple give 
a Garden Party in July in the pleasant gardens of the Temple. 
There is a Strawberry Fete, arranged by the Royal Horticultural 
Society in the society’s gardens at Chiswick. This pleasant 
event takes place early in July or in the last week of June. 

The President and Council of the Royal Institute of Water 
Colours hold, in their public galleries at Piccadilly, occasional 
Conversaziones, which are a happy compromise between the 
private view, with its daring flights of millinery, and the smoking 
concert (as of the British Artists), with its genial Bohemianism. 




Dinners: Anniversary and Ceremonial 


107 


Chapter VIII. 

DINNERS : ANNIVERSARY AND CEREMONIAL. 



HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUKE OF CAMBRIDGE IN THE' CHAIR. 


“ TT has often perplexed me to imagine,” wrote Nathaniel 
Hawthorn , 1 “ how an Englishman will be able to reconcile 
himself to any future state of existence from which the earthly 
institution of Dinner shall be excluded. . . . The idea of dinner 
has so imbedded itself among his highest and deepest character¬ 
istics, so illuminated itself with intellect, and softened itself with 
the kindest emotions of his heart, so linked itself with Church 
and State, and grown so majestic with long hereditary custom 
and ceremonies, that by taking it utterly away Death instead 
1 Our Old Home: “ Civic Banquets.” 







108 London oj To-Day. 

of putting the final touch to his perfection would leave him in¬ 
finitely less complete than we have already known him. He could 
not be roundly happy. Paradise among all its enjoyments would 
lack one daily felicity which his sombre little island possessed.” 
No city, town, part or section of the globe enjoys that “ felicity ” 
in greater measure than London in the Season. 

The month of May ushers in the season of dinners. The ad¬ 
vertisement columns of the leading journals now become charged 
with notices of forthcoming dinners of a public or semi-public 
character. Some of these are arranged in the interests of chari¬ 
table institutions ; some to perpetuate the fame of a great school; 
some to bring together the past and present officers of various 
regiments of the Queen’s service ; others to revive the memories 
of a great victory; others again for political purposes; and others 
solely for the pleasure of eating and drinking, and not unfrequently 
chiefly at the cost of those who are not made partakers of the feast. 

Examples of the first in order may be found in the annual 
dinners of the Royal Literary Fund, the Newspaper Press Fund, 
and the Artists’ General Benevolent Institution ; of the second 
in the annual commemoration of old Rugbeians, or of the past 
scholars of Winchester, Marlborough, or Cheltenham ; of the 
third in the regimental dinners of the Royal Artillery, the 1st or 
Grenadier Guards Club, the loth Hussars, or the Royal Marines; 
of the fourth, in the anniversary of “the glorious 1st of June;” 
of the fifth in the annual banquets of the National Liberal and 
Cobden Clubs; of the sixth and last in any of those nice little 
dinners at the “ Star and Garter,” Richmond, or “ The Trafalgar,” 
Greenwich, arranged by enterprising financiers, directors, and 
committee-men. From the epicure’s standpoint these last 
dinners are generally the best, possibly because no expense is 
spared in providing the most delicious dishes, and other people’s 
money is sometimes freely spent to make them alike gratifying 
to the palate and pleasant to the memory. 

In addition to such entertainments of a public, semi-official, or 
commemorative character, there is the annual dinner of the Royal 


Dinners: Anniversary and Ceremonial. 109 

Academy, and the series of banquets given in the Season by the 
Lord Mayor at the Mansion House to the Judges, Bishops, 
Cabinet Ministers, Provincial Mayors, Representatives of Com¬ 
merce, the Arts, Literature; and the like, which are also largely 
shared in by other members of society. The Inns of Court have 
also their periodical feasts—“ Grand Nights,” as they are termed 
—on which occasions more or less distinguished guests are enter¬ 
tained by the Benchers of the several societies in the Halls of 
those societies. 

Then there are the Parliamentary Full-Dress dinners, usually 
eight in number, to which M.P.’s alone are bidden, given by the 
Speaker of the House of Commons ; the Sessional dinners of each 
House ; and finally the Ministerial Whitebait dinner, given at 
the end of the Session. Interspersed with these we have dinners 
innumerable of Clubs, Societies, Civic Companies (for the most 
part the most desirable of any in London), and those of a com¬ 
plimentary character gotten-up in honour of individuals. 

Few gratifications are more desired by London mortals than 
an invitation to the Royal Academy’s dinner. The dear objects 
of men’s desires are seldom easy of attainment; and an invitation 
to the Royal Academy’s dinner is no exception to the common 
rule. A man may not only be a very respectable person, but 
may even be in a certain sense a very distinguished or influential 
person, and yet have little chance of being invited to that May 
banquet. The President of the Royal Academy has to recognize 
the claims of the Academicians and of distinguished painters who 
are not Academicians. Then, the dinner is understood to be 
representative in its character. There are always one or more 
members of the Royal Family present. The Church, the Senate, 
the Bar, Medicine, Literature and Science, the Army and the 
Navy, the City—all these claim their living illustrations in the 
company. The President would find it difficult to entertain in 
One dining-room, or even within the enclosure of one reasonably- 
sized building, all the men in these various walks of life who 
consider that they have some claim to be regarded as distinguished 

9 


110 


London of To-Day . 

or influential. It is to be feared that a good many persons are 
doomed to look out year after year with unavailing expectancy 
for an invitation to the Academy’s dinner, and to find each year 
bringing only its new disappointment. 

To-day, the scene of most public dinners—anniversary, com¬ 
memorative, testimonial, charitable, inaugural—is the Hotel 
Metropole, whose sumptuous and spacious Whitehall Rooms, 
have taken the place of “Willis’s” of time-honoured memory. 
These same Whitehall Rooms comprise the handsomest suite 
of their class to be found in London—two splendid, principal 
ball-rooms, so-named, and six others conveniently, arranged en 
suite as ante-room, withdrawing-room, coffee-room, ladies’ cloak¬ 
room, and so on. 

The larger proportion of the annual military and other banquets 
are given here : ist Life Guards; Grenadier and 3rd Guards ; Royal 
Artillery, Royal Engineers, Rifle Brigade, the “crack” Cavalry 
corps, etc., etc. At the Whitehall Rooms last year, on the occasion 
of the Military Jubilee Banquet to the Duke of Cambridge, all the 
Field-marshals of the English army were assembled ; they are 
not many, it is true; but this gathering of the illustrious was 
sufficiently imposing, and is hardly like to occur again. 

As regards commemorative and charitable dinners—those, for 
example, of the Royal Society; the Newspaper Press Fund; the 
General Theatrical Fund ; Royal Geographical Society; the Metro¬ 
politan Hospitals ; Bankers’ Association ; London Chamber of 
Commerce; Stock Exchange; Officers of Royal Yachts—the 
Metropole receives all, or nearly all; and with a little ingenuity, 
the curious traveller might perhaps “get wind” of what’s trans¬ 
piring at the Whitehall Rooms during the Season, and pick and 
choose his dinner. 

If he likes good speech with his dessert, something novel and 
interesting in the way of speech, why, he would do well to 
manoeuvre for an invitation to the banquet of a learned society; 
if a little anecdote and humour is more in his line, let him lay 
down his guinea for the Theatrical or Newspaper Fund banquet; 






At the Whitehall Rooms : 11 My Lords and Gentlemen ! Please Silence 
for His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales.” 




















Dinners: Anniversary and Ceremonial. hi 

if he would pump his neighbour as to dividends and stocks, 
some “man in the City” might perchance obtain for him an 
invitation to a feast where money matters and City intelligence 
lie within the possibilities of after-dinner oratory. Anyone may 
attend a charity-dinner who has a guinea to spend on a ticket, 
and one or more, let us hope, to hand to the secretary after 
dinner. 

After dinner, of course, come the speeches, which arej generally, 
by far the worst part of the banquet. There are, possibly, a 



score public men in England gifted with the faculty of after- 
dinner oratory. If the charitably-disposed guest be so fortunate 
as to find one of these occupying the chair he may be deemed 
lucky. For ourselves, we may remark that the worst examples 
of after-dinner speeches we ever listened to were delivered 
by a Cabinet Minister, an ex-Lord Chancellor, a scientific 
General, and a distinguished Admiral, and the best by a London 
Vicar of a West End parish, and a well-known journalist and man 
of letters. 

Secretaries of charitable institutions are generally on the look¬ 
out for an illustrious or distinguished personage to fill the chair 
at these anniversary dinners, but as a rule these illustrious and 
distinguished personages are but indifferent orators. 






112 London of To-Day. 

Dinners at the Mansion House are pleasanter and more de¬ 
sirable every way than most public banquets elsewhere. But it 
is not everyone who has the honour of an invitation from the 
Lord Mayor, though we have known instances where the exercise 
of a little diplomacy on the part of a stranger has secured one. 
Civic authorities are proverbially hospitable, and especially to 
foreign visitors. The Lord Mayor by ancient custom gives a 
dinner on Plow Monday (the first Monday after the Feast of the 
Epiphany) to his household; on Easter Monday to the Spital 
Preacher (the person appointed to preach the annual sermon 
before the Corporation on that day at Christ Church, Newgate 
Street), and the governors of the so-called Royal Hospitals ; and 
later in the year he entertains the Fruiterers’ Company, after their 
annual presentation of fruit. There are other dinners given at 
the Mansion House during the months of April, May, June, and 
July, but none depend upon any custom, though they are 
annually given. 

The City Companies’ banquets are, on the whole, the best 
arranged and most delicious feasts given within the jurisdiction 
of the Lord Mayor. Interest with the Prime Warden, Master, or 
Clerk of a Company might possibly procure an invitation to one 
of these, though it can hardly be a pleasant ordeal to ask for 
one ; and the only excuse for doing so would be a legitimate 
desire to study the customs of these ancient guilds. 

“ Grand Nights ” at the Middle Temple and other of the Inns 
of Court, are occasions of pleasant festivity. Comparatively few 
guests are admitted to these banquets of the lawyer. Personal 
distinction or intimacy with one of the Benchers seems to be the 
best passport to their hospitality. If the “Grand Night” feasts 
of these days are not characterized by the pomp and profusion 
that distinguished them in the early history of the Inns of Court, 
there is none the less attention paid to the important considera¬ 
tion of good eating and drinking. 

A Regimental dinner is, of course, open only to those gentle¬ 
men who have served or are at present serving with the corps or 


Dinners: Anniversary and Ceremonial. 


”3 


regiment in honour of which it is given. These banquets are 
unusually good, if somewhat expensive. They are mostly held, v 
as we have said, at the Metropole and Grand Hotels, less 
frequently now, perhaps, at the Ship and Turtle (in Leadenhall 
Street), and Limmer’s Hotel; in point of fact, at those dining- 
places where a good dinner commands a good price, and where 
the price paid is, generally speaking, sure to command a good 
dinner. They mostly take place between the last week of May 
and first week of July. The Derby and Ascot weeks are favourite 
dates for regimental dinners in London, because officers serving 
with their regiments at Aldershot, Chatham, Portsmouth, and 
other garrisons generally manage during those weeks to get a day 

















































114 London of To-Day. 

or two’s leave for “ a run up to Town.” The consumption of food 
Is not the only object which brings brothers, or rather grandfathers 
and uncles in arms, to mess with their old regiment in London. 
There is a great attraction in having worn the same badge and 
marched under the same colours, and it is naturally interesting 
to soldiers, who have long since turned their swords into reaping- 
hooks, to run up to town and meet the “young fellows,” the 
competition youngsters who have invaded the service of late 
years. 

There are some other dinners given during the season, a seat 
at which one might be pardoned for coveting, if solely on the 
ground of curiosity. Of such, we might name the annual 
“Derby” dinner (given on the evening of the Derby Day) at 
which all the greater personages of the racing world are present, 
If we mistake not, this banquet is now given by H.R.H. the 
Prince of Wales. The Trinity House dinner should be also 
mentioned as one of note ; and the annual dinner-of the Royal 
Navy Club (composed of distinguished naval officers) to the First 
Lord of the Admiralty is an interesting event. A “command” 
dinner at Windsor Castle would no doubt be a novel experience 
to one curious as to the etiquette of the Court, if curiosity in this 
matter were not a sure bar to the honour of a “ command.” 






I 













* 


































































* 

























































<££ 






•< 5 : : • 








Tea on the Terrace in July. 

(By permission of Messrs . Fradelle & Young), 






































Lords and Commons in Session. 


115 


Chapter IX. 


LORDS AND COMMONS IN SESSION. 
NGLAND, contrary to most other nations, holds the Parlia 



mentary Session in the summer, or, to be strictly accurate, 
during spring and summer. While most persons are pining to 
live in the country, England’s assembly of wise men prefer being 



IN THE HOUSE OF LORDS. 


cooped up in town. They devote to legislation and town life 
exactly that space which intervenes between the death of the 
last pheasant and the shooting of the first grouse, as by law 
permitted—that is to say, between the middle of February and 
the second week in August. Many visitors to London look 
forward to a night in the House of Commons as one of the most 
interesting engagements of their stay. The proceedings of Par¬ 
liament, however, are, as a rule, very dull; and, except for the 
gratification of a pardonable curiosity in seeing the people’s 
representatives engaged in the people’s business, are hardly worth 
the studying at Westminster. The newspapers print more than 
most persons care to know of the “ wordy talk ” of England's 
legislators. As to the great majority of M.P.’s themselves, any¬ 
thing noteworthy in their appearance may best be studied in the 









ii 6 


London of To-Day. 


brief half-hour before four in the vicinity of Westminster Hall 
under guidance of a friendly policeman. It is not easy to learn 
beforehand when the great popular leaders may be expected to 
make set orations; as these are generally worth hearing, it behoves 
the earnest student of English men and manners 
to be watchful of his opportunity, and to read his 
newspaper. On such interesting occasions, the 
demand for seats by strangers is always greatly 
in excess of the accommodation provided. In¬ 
deed, the British House of Commons will hold 
only about one half of the members actually 

elected to 
sit in it, on 
either side 
of Mr. 
Speaker 
There are 
306 seats 
onthefloor 
of the 
House. In 
addition, 
accommo¬ 
dation is 
provided 
for 122 
members 
in the side 
galleries, 

where they can see very little, and whence, in accordance with 
unwritten rule, they, till lately, never took part in debate. Of 
the 670 members for whom the Constitution finds constituencies, 
only two-thirds can find seats of any kind in the House of Com^ 
mons. The accommodation for strangers is on a correspondingly 
limited scale. 



IN COMMITTEE. 


































Lords and Commons in Session. 117 

The only point of particular interest to our readers in connec¬ 
tion with the House of Commons is the admission of Strangers 
to hear the debates. 

The accommodation available above the Floor of the House is 
as follows:— 

The Side Galleries are strictly reserved for Members; but 
clerks and officers of the House are allowed to use the seats 
farthest from the Speaker. 

The Peers have a Gallery of their own on the left of the clock 
looking towards the Speaker; the corresponding seats to the right 
are reserved for Diplomatists and “ Distinguished Strangers.” 

All the seats above, including those of what was formerly 
known as the Speaker’s Gallery, now belong to the Members’ 
Strangers’ Gallery, and are practically those solely reserved to 
the public. Strangers (including ladies) are occasionally, for a 
brief time, and as a special privilege, permitted to have a view of 
the proceedings from the Floor; but this privilege is only ac¬ 
corded to members accompanying friends, and to a very limited 
extent. 

Admission to all the Galleries, save the Members’ and Peers’, 
is to be had only on the order of the Speaker, obtainable on 
application through a Member. 

Places in the Ladies’ Gallery are balloted for a week in ad¬ 
vance : and the competition for these places among Members is 
so keen that it often happens that a Member fails to secure seats 
once during a Session. There is a smaller private Gallery for 
Ladies, to which admission is only to be had by favour of the 
Speaker’s wife; and at the opposite end, behind the Strangers’ 
Gallery are a few places at the disposal of the Serjeant-at-Arms. 

Applications for admission may be made to Members for a 
week in advance. 

On any Stranger presenting his ticket of admission, he is 
required to sign his name and write his address. 

After 5 p.m. applications for admission to fill any vacancies 
are made by Members to the Serjeant-at-Arms. 


118 London of To-Day. 

There is a so-called “ Lobby List,” under which Strangers are 
admitted to the Members’ Lobby under the supervision of the 
Serjeant-at-Arms. 

Parliamentary Agents are generally admitted to the Members’ 
Lobby until half-past 5 o’clock. 

Subsidiary to these regulations are others carried out by the 
police for the regulation of the admission of Strangers to the 
Dining, Tea, Smoking Rooms, and Terrace. But as no Stranger 
enters the House except by introduction of a Member, it is 
unnecessary to refer to these. 

The House of Commons now meets at 3 o’clock afternoon; 
and, save when the rule is suspended for urgency, opposed busi¬ 
ness ceases at midnight. On Wednesdays, however, the sitting 
is from 12 noon to 6 p.m. 

If after 3 p.m., or at any time during the sitting, 40 members 
should not be present, a “count” may be moved. A “count” 
cannot be moved on Wednesdays before 4 p.m. 

The Parliamentary Session begins, as we have said, in Feb¬ 
ruary, and ordinarily ends in August, with recesses at Easter 
and Whitsuntide. The daily business of the House of Commons 
commences with prayers read by the Chaplain, who comes in with 
the Speaker, officially robed and wigged, attended by the Ser- 
jeant-at-Arms in Court dress, carrying the mace, which he deposits 
upon the table farthest from the chair. The mace remains here 
so long as the Speaker sits in the chair; when he vacates it, and 
the House resolves itself into Committee, it is laid to rest on a 
rack under the ledge of the table. From three till half-past seven 
the House is usually well attended; but during what has come to 
be known as the dinner-hour, which extends to ten or a little 
later, it is, as a rule, comparatively empty. But it does not 
follow that some of the more interesting proceedings of Parlia¬ 
ment may not take place during the dinner hour and before it. 
Before dinner, one may be witness of the “badgering” of 
Ministers, during dinner of, possibly, the farce of a “ count; ” 
after dinner of, perhaps, the excitement of a critical division. 




































































































































































Lords and Commons in Session. 119 

It would be well, therefore, that the stranger should be in his 
seat in the Gallery—if he desire to hear the best speakers and 
make himself acquainted with all the more interesting procedure 
of the House—at the hour of meeting, and be prepared to continue 
in it till the time of adjournment at midnight. To that end he 
would do wisely to refresh himself both inwardly and outwardly 
before going down to the House, or he may find himself some¬ 
what exhausted in attempting to stay through the whole of 
the sitting. Ladies are more hospitably treated in their Gallery, in 
being supplied with tea and other light refreshment. Generally 
the more important speeches in debate—that is to say, of 
Ministers and the Opposition Leaders—are delivered after the 
dinner hour. The preliminary work of “ keeping the pot boiling ” 
is left to bores and bad speakers, and a sufficiently dreary business 
it is—at least, to those not actually occupied with it. A good 
“square ” meal and an even temper will tend greatly to alleviate 
the wretchedness of being wedged in tightly in the Strangers’ 
Gallery on a hot night with all sorts and conditions of men, 
listening for three or four hours to the commonplace speeches of 
feeble orators. 

Here is the character given to the House of Commons by one 
of its newest members: “ It is too much of a mere talking shop, 
and not a place for a man whose chief desire is to do some useful 
practical work. At its best, the House is the best of all repre¬ 
sentative assemblies, while it is impossible for any assembly to 
be worse than the House at its worst; and it is at its worst three 
days out of four, and five nights out of six. It is a huge organiza¬ 
tion for the waste of time and the dissipation of energy. Further, 
the House excels in all kinds of sense except common sense.” 

Admission to hear the debates in the House of Lords is ob¬ 
tained through the written order of a peer. A courteous appli¬ 
cation generally meets with a speedy answer and the requisite 
order. The Lord Chancellor takes his seat on the woolsack (the 
official seat) about 4, and the House rises on most evenings of 
the Session between 6 and 7. Occasionally, but not often, its 


10 


120 


London of To-Day. 

debates are prolonged to a later hour. The arrangements of the 
House of Lords are somewhat similar to those of the Lower 
Chamber. Members of the Government and its supporters sit on 

PLAN OF THE HOUSE OF COMMONS. 



that party occupy eeats below the gangway on the right; the Parnellites seats 
below the gangway on the left of the Chair. 

the right of the Lord Chancellor; the Opposition to the left. 
On the “ cross-benches ” below the table sit the Princes (when 
they are present), the Duke of Cambridge, and the more " inde- 













































Lords and Commons in Session. 121 

pendent ” members. The Bishops are always seated to the right 
of the Lord Chancellor. The doings of the Upper Chamber have 
little interest for the majority of the citizens of London, except 
when it interferes with the progress of legislation by coming in 
too eager conflict with the House of Commons. A stranger will 
find more to interest him, perhaps, in the Lords’ debates in the 
brief space of two hours than the average Englishman will find 
in the course of six months. At all events a visitor should be 
able to gratify his curiosity by looking on the Throne, the Lord 
Chancellor, the Woolsack, possibly four or five Bishops in their 
lawn and black satin robes, and (on exceptional occasions) 
maybe fourscore or more elderly gentlemen of noble ancestry, 
seated on roomy red-leather-covered benches. The House of 
Lords has always contained among its members some of the most 
eminent lawyers of the country, a successful general or two, and 
a considerable number of the more wealthy landowners of the 
kingdom of more or less ancient nobility. A friendly occupant 
of a seat in the Gallery would no doubt be willing to point out to 
a stranger the statesmen and “ men of light and leading ” among 
these. , 

There is no “ muddy flood of saponaceous blather” to over¬ 
whelm listeners in the “ Lords.” They may be lulled to sleep four 
evenings out of five by a trickling stream of pure Toryism—that 
is, when the “ Lords ” sit after dinner, which is seldom. 

Lord Coleridge, however, has observed that, “if any man 
knew a debate was going to take place in that Assembly, in 
which those present would be sure to hear the Duke of Argyll, 
the Bishop of Peterborough, Lord Salisbury, Lord Rosebery ^ 
and Lord Selborne, he would be a fool if he did not try for a 
ticket,” 


122 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter X. 
THE CLUBS. 



' NOUGH has been written of the Lon¬ 
don clubs for everyone to know their 
names, their location, and the privileges 
of their members. We say some¬ 
thing on this subject 
elsewhere (“Parliament 
Street to Pall Mall ”). 
Men seek admission to 
them for various reasons: 
for the convenience of 
a permanent London 
address ; for political 
reasons ; for the honour 
permitted to write on club- 
paper; for the right of imprinting 
the club name on their visiting- 
cards ; for the sake of a good dinner well-served at a moderate 
price ; for the pleasure of entertaining their friends in better 
fashion than at home, in lodgings, or at a restaurant; for the 
sake of a little gambling in genteel society; as a refuge from 
domestic worry. 

Strangers to London seldom obtain the privilege of the entree , 
unless they happen to be distinguished strangers, though English 
gentlemen visiting a foreign city are usually invited to become 
honorary members of every club in the place, and that by natives 
of very slight acquaintance. One might be pardoned for think¬ 
ing that the “Union,” “ Somerset,” or “St. Botolph” Clubs of 
















The Clubs. 


123 


Boston are not one whit less respectable or exclusive (in the 
vulgar sense of the word) than the “ Carlton ” or “ Reform,” or, 
let us say, the “ Garrick ” of London. The Englishmen who 
have been admitted to the honorary membership of the former 
during a visit to Boston must outnumber the Americans who 
have been admitted to the privileges of the latter as ten to one. 
The number of Americans connected with letters to whom the 
doors of the “ Athenaeum ” of London have been opened might 
be computed at one to ten in comparison of English literary men 
to whom the hospitality of the “ Century ” or “ Union ” of New 
York has been freely offered. Visitors to London, then, will not 
think it unfriendly if, not being of the class of “ distinguished 
strangers,” they find clubland rather a region of inhospitality and 
frigid reserve than of amiability and fraternal kindness. 

After all, we do not know that they miss much in not having 
access to the clubs. An idea prevails among the uninitiated 
that a London club is an epitome of sumptuous comfort. There 
can be no greater delusion. The majority of clubs wear, in the 
daytime especially, a singularly comfortless aspect. The rooms 
are, unquestionably, of handsome proportions, and the upholstery 
of superior though weighty grandeur ; but these things alone do 
not convey any sense of comfort or snugness. Club-rooms are 
generally lacking in warmth of colour, and their grim severity is 
unbroken by the pretty little occasional tables, cabinets, and 
screens—in a word, those graceful superfluities which give to 
rooms an aspect of home. 

The Strangers’ Room for diners is generally sufficiently 
dreary as an eating-place, and apart from the dinners served 
in them, and the pleasure of partaking of a friend’s hospi¬ 
tality, to be avoided by anyone who has a dining-room of his 
own. Most club smoking-rooms are on a par with smoking- 
rooms elsewhere, neither better nor worse. Men talk, smoke, 
drink, and snore; and the loudest talkers and snorers are voted 
nuisances by those about them. It is a mistake to suppose there 
is anything like general conversation or general introduction as 


124 


London of To-Day. 


in military mess-rooms or in the ward-room of a ship of war, 
Host and guest keep together and converse with timorous speech 
as if afraid of being overheard ; and as for listening to the gossip 
of the town, a stranger hears about as much of this in a London 
club as he does in Covent Garden Market. The card-rooms 
and billiard-rooms have their attractions; but on the whole 
we incline to think that the three great inducements to club- 
life are those which the Reading, Breakfast and Dining Rooms 
afford. 

The palatial building which stands fronting the Thames 
Embankment, at the bottom of Northumberland Avenue, built 
at a cost of ^150,000, for the accommodation of the National 
Liberal Club, is one of the largest clubhouses in the world, if 
not actually the largest, and is a handsome addition to the 
striking array of public buildings located on the north bank 
of the Thames. The club is new in more senses than one. It 
marks a great advance in prosperity and consideration in one 
section of the middle class. It is as comprehensive in the social 
as in the political qualification, and is, perhaps, the most hospit¬ 
able to strangers of all the London clubs. The Constitutional, 
near at hand, occupies relatively the same position in the Conser¬ 
vative world as the National Liberal in the world of Liberalism, 
Radicalism, and Home Rule. 

The suburban clubs constituted for the purpose of social 
entertainments should be noticed. Such are Hurlingham, 
Ranelagh, the Orleans, Hurst Park Clubs, etc. They are 
conducted upon the ordinary club plan, but own grounds (as 
well as a house) where polo, pony and galloway racing, pigeon¬ 
shooting, lawn tennis, and other outdoor amusements are carried 
on. Members may admit friends of either sex, and on summer 
afternoons usually take down parties to see the polo, or play 
lawn tennis, and to dine afterwards. 

There is a new development of the same sort in London, where 
what may be called cafe and casino clubs have been established. 
At the former, such as the Bachelors’ Club, ladies are invited 








A Ladies’ Night at the Lyric Club 







































































































































The Clubs. 


125 


to dine or sup by the members before or after the theatre. A 
notable addition to this class of clubs is the Lyric, in Coventry 
Street, which, besides the ordinary conveniences, provides musical 
and dramatic entertainments periodically. Altogether it has one 
hundred rooms, including a concert-hall or theatre. It has a 
suburban summer branch at St. Ann’s, Barnes; allows ladies the 
privilege of entrance and of dining and supping ; notifies Sunday 
evening smoking-concerts and Thursday night soirees as winter 
attractions in town; and in the summer 
season ladies’ concerts at Barnes on Sunday 
evenings. The Grosvenor Club, in Bond 
Street (late the Grosvenor Gallery), and the 
Amphitryon Club, in Albemarle Street, may 
be added to the list of institutions of this 
class; though the latter is essentially a dining- 
club, referred to more particularly in our 
fifth chapter. 

It is unnecessary to refer to the mul¬ 
titude of proprietary and more or less 
Bohemian clubs generally known to the 
Londoner; many of them of mushroom 
growth, which, like the mushroom, spring 
up in a day, decay, and are gone, few but 
the originators care whither. 

Among London clubs with which a curious 
r stranger might be pardoned for desiring 
better acquaintance are the Marlborough, in Pall Mall (a long way 
the top of the list); the Savage, now occupying new premises on 
Adelphi Terrace: the Garrick, in Garrick Street, W.C.; the Arts, 
in Hanover Square; the Beefsteak, in King William Street, 
Strand ; and, shall we add the Pelican, in Gerrard Street ? 

Among clubs to which the stranger (properly accredited and in¬ 
fluentially “backed”) may perchance gain admission, as honorary 
member for a short time, are all the Political, Social, and Naval 
and Military Clubs ; naval and military officers only to these last. 

















126 


London of To-Day. 

The best clubs, most difficult of entrance, are the Athenaeum, 
the Carlton, the Senior United Service, some of the St. James’s 
Street group of old-fashioned clubs, and perhaps the Oxford and 
Cambridge. The Marlborough may be attempted by “foreigners 
of distinction ; ” for that matter so may all the rest. 

Of dinner clubs exclusively, we would rather an invitation from 
the members of the Grillon Club than any other in England. 
So, probably, would a great many others if they knew anything 
about its history. By the way, Cunningham, best of commenta¬ 
tors on the topography of London, says nothing of the site of 
Grillon’s Hotel in Albemarle Street. Grillon looked after the 
creature comforts of Louis XVIII. during his stay in London. 
M. Grillon was in his day a distinguished professor of the 
Physiologie du Gout; and so by the way was the royal guest. 
He and the Due d’Escars are said to have invented between them 
a dish, truffes d la puree d'ortolans } and so jealous were they 
yd their gastronomic secret that they invariably prepared the dish 
with their own hands. One night, after partaking plenteously of 
it, the Due was seized with a fit of indigestion, and his case was 
declared hopeless. On hearing of it, his majesty exclaimed, 
“ Dying is he, of my truffes a la puree ? I was right then. I 
always said that I had the better stomach of the two.” 

One of the most remarkable outcomes of London of To-Day in 
the way of clubs is the Pelican in Gerrard Street, Soho, once a 
neighbourhood of not too-fashionable aspect, but now growing 
quite “swell” and comely. The Pelican Club stands perse among 
London clubs—a dining, supping, sleeping, musical and dramatic, 
fencing, boxing, Indian-clubbing, parallel-barring establishment 
for gentlemen ; advertised into notoriety by the “great glove fight 
between Peter Jackson and Jem Smith:” “Peter Jackson, the 
coloured pugilist of Australia, and Jem Smith, the heavy-weight 
champion of England.” And by all accounts a supremely edify¬ 
ing spectacle it must have been in the early hours of a Monday 
morning in November 1889—quite a spirited revival of the fine 
old times of Ben Caunt, Nat Langham, and others of that ilk. 


The Royal Italian Opera . 


127 



Chapter XI. 

THE ROYAL ITALIAN OPERA. 


T TALIAN OPERA has revived in London under the enter- 
prising direction of that indefatigable organizer, Mr. Augustus 
Harris. The brilliant opera audiences that were seen at Covent 
Garden during the months of June and July of last season excelled 
those of 1889, when Italian Opera reached what was then con¬ 
sidered the zenith of social popularity. Last year it scaled a higher 





128 


London of To-Day. 

alp. The constant patronage accorded by the Prince and Princess 
of Wales has naturally influenced fashion in this direction. The 
marvellous displays of jewellery made on special nights far ex¬ 
celled those of previous years, except on the famous gala night 
when the Shah was present in July 1889. 

A few years ago Italian Opera in London had fallen almost to 
its lowest state. Managers trained in the school of thirty years 
ago, could think of no more powerful antidote to the growing 
popularity of the theatre than a wearisome round of hackneyed 
works supported by “star” performers. It was the late Mr. Carl 
Rosa who first perceived that a change of plan was needed in 
operatic management, and the principles he laid down for himself 
as to opera in English have been extended by Mr. Harris to opera 
in Italian. Newer, and spectacular works, intelligently mounted, 
and (even in the absence of “ stars ”) adequately performed, have 
revived the interest of the wealthy classes, and made the great 
house in Covent Garden once more the resort of fashion in the 
London Season. 

Again, we have the old-time mounting of the guard under the 
colonnade without; and on special occasions—nights of per¬ 
formance of some favourite modern work—the coup d'csil within 
reveals all the accustomed splendours of the grand toilette , and 
other striking arrangements of colour, which in themselves form 
not the least of the many attractions of the Covent Garden 
Opera House in the season. 

“ Taken together,” wrote Evelyn of the Diary , describing his 
and my Lord Bruce’s impressions of opera at Venice in 1645 ; 

“ taken together, it is one of the most expensive diversions the 
wit of man can invent.” We have made considerable progress 
in musical, dramatic, and scenic diversions since 1645 ; but opera 
still remains, primarily, the most expensive of all. 

The Prima Donna “ lives, as it were, in a glass case.” Madame 
Christine Nilsson has told us so. To unlock that glass case 
requires a golden key, which, according to a moderate computa¬ 
tion, would require to be made of five hundred golden sovereigns. 



m i i r \mam 




zk',’ 9 *'*. 

i< f&JS 4! - 

♦ t ♦• 








A Sketch in the Strand: 8 p,m 










































129 


The Royal Italian Opera. 

The singing-bird being released, she carols a song or two, and 
then back she trips into the glass case again. Another golden 
key has to be wrought of another mass of fine gold, before the 
glass case may be again opened. So that before fifteen trips out 
of the glass case may be made, the manager of the Royal Italian 
Opera-house in London must needs have in the strong-box of the 
Bank of England, or elsewhere, sovereigns sufficient to pay—let’s 
say, quite a decent Civil List pension for life to the widow of 
some distinguished literary man. 

Regarding payments to great operatic singers of to-day, it was 
said (and the statement was not contradicted) that Madame 
Patti would receive no less than twelve thousand guineas, plus 
travelling expenses (to use the words of the official communique) 
“for herself and suite”—with a special train over the Russian 
railways during her Russian engagement. In return she would 
give three operatic representations at St. Petersburg, and three 
at Moscow, besides three concerts in each city. For her concert 
tour with Messrs. Harrison, she was to be paid ^500 per night 
in the provinces, and ^Boo in London. In South America, 
however, the great prima donna has received considerably more 
than these sums, and one of her contracts provided for her 
remuneration at the rate of ^1,000 per night certain, plus half 
the receipts over £2,000 nightly. Thus the gossips. 

We are far from saying that “ soprani of the first line ” are not 
entitled to every fraction of their full fee. And as no portion of 
it comes out of our own purse, why it would be most ungracious, 
not to say impertinent, to carp at its payment by others. If only 
we might receive half such a fee for a month’s work, carpers and 
criticasters might go hang for us. We would make our case of 
the brittlest German glass, so that an infant’s mottled fist might 
smash it at a touch. 

Eighteen operas in all were performed during the ten weeks’ 
season of ’90. Five—that is to say ,Le Prophete , Hamlet , Romeo 
et Juliette, La Favorite and Mr. Goring Thomas’ Esmeralda— 
were given in French; and twelve—to wit, Faust , Les Pecheurs 



London of To-Day. 


de Perles, Lohengrin , II Trovatore, Hugue?tots, La 

Sonnambula , Ztf Traviata, Don Giovanni ,, Figaro, Lucia, 
Rigoletto, and Meistersinger in Italian; while Carmen 
(which earlier in the year had been performed at Drury Lane in 
English), was heard both in Italian and French. A large com¬ 
pany, and the failure early in the season of several new comers 
to gain the favour of opera-goers, from time 
to time necessitated various changes in the 
casts. But in general the works most fre¬ 
quently performed were those which could 
boast the co-operation of M. Jean de Reszke, 
who last season more than ever maintained 
the position of leading artist of the troupe ; 
while that so many operas were heard in 
the French tongue was due almost entirely 
to the fact that the famous Polish tenor, and 
several of his associates, found it convenient 
\ to sing in that language. 

The old system of the 
“Subscription” will be the 
mainstay of the present 
season, as it was of the 
past. It consists ordinarily 
of about forty perform¬ 
ances, during ten weeks, 
beginning this year some¬ 
what earlier, in April 
namely. 

. The prices range from £7 7s. and £6 6s. for a grand-tier 
box to ios. 6 d. for an amphitheatre stall; the intermediate 
prices being £4. 4.?., £3 3s., £2 12 s. 6d., £1 is., for an orchestral 
stall; and 15s. for a balcony stall. The gallery seats are 
2s. 6 d. 














































































































































































































> < njj -yjyj TX 




WMHSJI 

nm f 




One of the Entrances : Royal English Opera-House, 

















































The Royal English Opera. 


I 3 i 


THE ROYAL ENGLISH OPERA. 



NE of the things to be done by everyone who comes to 


London, this year will be, to go to Mr. D’Oyly Carte’s 
magnificent new Opera House (the finest theatre, mark you, in 
the Kingdom), to witness a performance of Ivanhoe, a work 
which not only commands present popularity, but which is 
destined to live. In point of fact, to see and to hear that 
Opera—words by Mr. Julian Sturgis, music by Sir Arthur Sullivan 
—will probably be the first thing attempted in the way of amuse¬ 
ment upon arrival in London : to be accomplished at all hazards 
and at any expense, before accepting invitations to dine, dance, 
or “call,” or indeed to appear anywhere in English society, 
not fashioned on the solitary-confinement-silent-system of 
Wormwood Scrubs. 

It may be that the topic of Ivanhoe will have worn itself out 
at fashionable dinner-tables before the month of July has come 
to an end: so that the guest who is able to say that he has not 
seen the opera performed will be hailed with delight, as himself 
affording a suitable subject for conversation. But it will not be 
wise to trust entirely to chance in this matter. “Society” is 
proverbially fickle, and is just as likely to refuse to sit at meat 
with him, as to receive him to herself, as at once the most 
simple-minded and ingenuous youth, outside the limits of the 
clerical profession, that ever encased himself within the measure 
of a superfine black-cloth coat with tails. 

“ Delight with the music, delight with the superb performance, 
delight with a rnise en scene that has never been excelled for 
artistic beauty on any London stage, unqualified admiration 
of the theatre itself,” these are sufficient temptations to anyone 
to adventure a paltry 15.?. on a Royal Tier Stall, at our fine, 
new, and undoubtedly Royal, and everyway splendid English 
Opera House of Mr. D’Oyly Carte’s founding, Mr. Collcutt’s 
designing, and Sir Arthur Sullivan’s inaugurating with an 
English Opera every way worthy of his fame. 


11 


i 3 2 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XII. 
MUSIC. 



TV fl USIC, like every other class of entertainment in England, 
centres in London, where there are a surprising number 
of regular performances during the year, generally well patron¬ 
ized by students and admirers of the art. 

Such are the Subscription Concerts of the old-established 
Philharmonic Society ; the Oratorios and other special perform¬ 
ances at the Royal Albert Hall and Crystal Palace ; the world 
renowned “ Popular ” Classical Concerts given throughout the 
winter, from October to March ; the weekly “ Ballad ” Concerts of 
Mr. Boosey; the admirable series of Saturday Afternoon Concerts 
at the Crystal Palace, at which the best classical and popular 
music is heard ; the excellent Richter Concerts at St. James’s 
Hall; the performances under direction of the management of 
the Royal Italian Opera; the course of Pianoforte Recitals, to 
which the genius of Sir Charles Halle and others give character; 



























The Inevitable Encore 
















































































■ 







Music. 


133 


the Concerts of the Royal Choral Society and the London Sym¬ 
phony Concerts; those of the Royal Academy of Music and Royal 
Society of Musicians; the Promenade Concerts at Covent Garden 
Theatre; and finally the crowd of 
lesser meetings at which the best music 
may be heard—all (with one or two 
exceptions) filling the London winter 
and spring. In general the most 
noteworthy musical performances are 
those which are given at that period 
of the year. The daily newspapers 
make note of all that is transpiring in 
the musical world ; failing these, the 
visitor will do well to seek information 
at St. James’s Hall, where he will be 
sure to meet with courteous attention 
from Mr. Basil Tree, whose fuller advertisement of actual 
arrangements lor the spring and summer season is printed 
farther on. 

It is probable, he tells us, that Madame Patti will sing at the 
Royal Albert Hall in May and June, an 
opportunity for admirers of the great 
operatic songstress too seldom nowadays 
occurring. 

With regard to other fixtures, the 
following are notes of some of the more 
important Concerts given in London at 
stated periods of the year, any of which 
will be found highly interesting to those 
who appreciate good music. 

The Monday Popular Concerts, held 
weekly at St. James’s Hall, under direc¬ 
tion of Mr. S. Arthur Chappell, beginning 
in October of each year, and ending in the following March. 

The Saturday Popular Concerts, also held at St. James’s Hall 





134 


London of To-Day. 

under the same direction, beginning in November and extending 
through the same period. 

The London Ballad Concerts, under direction of Mr. John 
Boosey, weekly, at St. James’s Hall, beginning in the last week 
of November, and ending in March following. 

The Crystal Palace Concerts, held at the Crystal Palace, 
Sydenham, weekly, under direction of Mr. August Manns, on 
each successive Saturday during the winter season, and also in 
the summer season, beginning in February, and continuing till 
the third week in April. 

The Philharmonic Society’s Concerts, six in number, given at 
St. James’s Hall, at stated 
intervals during the months 
of March, April, May, and 
June. Among the possible 
performers are Mesdames 
Frickenhaus, Norman-Neruda 
(Lady Halle), Schumann and 
Menter, and Signor Piatti. 

The Royal Choral Society’s 
series of Concerts at the Royal 
Albert Hall, South Kensington, 
in January, February, March, 
and April, and those of the 
Royal Amateur Orchestral j 
Society at the same place in 
December, March, and May. ‘ 

The Richter Concerts at St. James’s Hall in May, June and 
July. 

The London Symphony Concerts on Thursday evenings from 
November to February. 

Sir Charles Halle’s Orchestral Concerts given within the same 
period. 

In addition to the foregoing noteworthy yearly arrangements, 
concerts are given at the Town Hall, Westminster, by the 















Music. 


135 

Westminster Orchestral Society, in December, January, April 
and May. 

The Handel Triennial Festival will be held this year at the 
Crystal Palace, from June 19th to June 26th, and also a Jubilee 
Festival of Tonic Sol-fa singers numbering several thousands. 

Fashionable reunions of musical people are afforded by the 
well-patronized entertainments of the Strolling Players, of the 
Stock Exchange Orchestral Society, and of the Royal Amateurs 
heretofore incidentally referred to. 

The London Musical Society generally give two concerts— 
one in March and the other in June. 

The Royal Academy of Music give concerts at St. James’s 
Hall in February, March, April, May, June and July. 

Mention may properly be made here of the musical evenings 
of Mr. Henschel and of Mr. Dannreuther ; of the recitals at 
St. James’s Hall of Mdlle. Kleeberg; of Mr. W. G. Cusins’s 
annual concert at the same place; of the Bach Choir’s and 
Signor Sarasate’s series of six concerts in May and June; and 
the concerts of the Royal College and the Guildhall School of 
Music. 

Not less worthy of mention are the Free Concerts which have 
been given (and which we trust are yearly to be continued) in 
the Queen’s Hall of the People’s Palace, that noble institution 
which has sprung from the Beaumont bequest in the East of 
London (Mile End Road). The entertainments, chiefly ballad 
and orchestral music, have been provided by professionals and 
amateurs who have given their services gratuitously. The 
audiences, estimated at about 2,000 a night, have comprised 
many of the poorest classes. Assistance from professionals 
and others has been forthcoming in abundance. 

At Prince’s Hall, Piccadilly, some capital concerts are 
occasionally given—Dramatic and Musical Soirees; “ Chamber 
Music; ” Amateur Banjo Concerts; Bohemian Concerts and 
so on. Information and Tickets at the Hall. 

The Smoking Concert is much in vogue nowadays, and 


London of To-Day . 


136 

embraces almost every style and description of music. In the 
lower grade the “smoker” is of course little better than a 
compromise between the severity of the classical concert and 
the inanities and vulgarities of the Music-hall. But the sym¬ 
phony performances given by the Stock Exchange band, by the 
Wandering Minstrels, the Royal Amateurs, the Meistersinger, 
and other orchestras, and the private chamber concerts held at 
the Crichton Club, the German Athenaeum, and elsewhere, have 
proved conclusively that many men can enjoy music far better 
with a Havannah in their mouths, than amid the stiff formality 
of the St. James’s or the Prince’s Halls. 

We can only again suggest to the reader to have recourse to 
Mr. Basil Tree at the St. James’s Hall ticket-office bureau, if he 
requires fuller information on the concerts to be given in London 
during the present Season. That gentleman periodically publishes 
a List, comprising dates of all forthcoming musical events at 
St. James’s Hall and Royal Albert Hall, which may be had 
gratis, by sending him a stamped directed envelope. 


The Theatres. 


137 


Chapter XIII. 
THE THEATRES. 


T F we Londoners are nothing 
■*- else, we are a theatre-going 
^ people. And we must be 
tolerably wealthy in the 
aggregate- 
nay, are — 
otherwise the 
|gg= capital mana¬ 
gerial adver- 
tisements, 
“ Boxes full; ” 


' “Stalls full;” “Dress-circle full;” 
“ Balcony full; ” “ Pit full; ” “ Gallery full,” 
would not be so familiar in the London Strand 
and thereabouts at nightfall. 

We have heard it said that a half-million or so ot pleasure- 
seekers every evening want “places” at the various London 
entertainments, and of these seventy or eighty thousand persons 
look for, and get them at the theatres. Allowing that each of 
these expends, on an average, let’s say, what ?—two shillings 
for a seat, we have a good round total of close upon 160,000 
shillings nightly spent at the London theatres. 

Still, like Oliver Twist, we go on asking for more. The 
London theatres are not yet sufficient to satisfy the public 
demand for accommodation. The Royal English Opera House 
and the rebuilt Olympic have been opened since we last wrote. 
The Vaudeville has been made new. Rumours are in the air of 








138 London of To-Day. 

other new theatres, and of a new suburban theatre in the vicinity 
of the Edgware Road. 

And why not more suburban theatres ? Some one will make 
a fortune by catering for suburban Londoners some day. It 
is a positive infliction to go from the suburbs to a West End 
theatre nowadays. Even the most ardent playgoer hesitates 
to encounter the inconvenience. To be kicking one’s heels 
about on a draughty London railway platform at midnight is 
not a satisfactory ending of an otherwise pleasant evening’s 
entertainment. 

Moreover, where’s our supper ?—our supper without night¬ 
mare. Suburban folk do not all dine at 7.30 p.m. To cut a 
long complaint short, some London managers might safely try 
the experiment, we think, of throwing open his doors at 7, 
and allowing the principal piece to begin at 7.45, or there¬ 
about. Why not name his theatre “ The Suburban Theatre,” 
and go for the many thousands of people, fortunately possessed 
of shillings and half-sovereigns, who live a little way out of 
town? Mr. Frederick Wedmore says, “No audience is so 
provincial as an audience in the Strand.” Let it presently be 
said that there is no audience so suburban as an audience in 
Shaftesbury Avenue, within easy reach of Victoria, Charing 
Cross, and Ludgate Hill Railway Stations. 

You look for your information touching the play nightly to 
be performed, in the column before the “ leader ” in the day’s 
newspapers. Following is a list of the theatres under whose 
several titles such information may be found:— 


Adelphi, Strand. 

Alhambra, Leicester Square. 

Avenue, Northumberland Avenue. 
Britannia, Hoxton. 

Comedy, Panton Street, Haymarket. 
Court, Sloane Square. 

Covent Garden, Bow Street. 
Criterion, Piccadilly East. 

Drury Lane, Catherine Street, Strand. 
Empire, Leicester Square. [Avenue. 
English Opera House, Shaftesbury 


Gaiety, Strand. 

Garrick, Charing Cross Road. 

Globe, Newcastle Street, Strand. 
Grand, Islington. 

Haymarket, Haymarket. 

Her Majesty’s, Haymarket. 

Lyceum, Wellington Street, Strand. 
Lyric, Shaftesbury Avenue. 

Novelty, Great Queen Street, W.C. 
Olympic, The New, Wych Street, 
Strand. 


The Theatres . 


139 


Opera Comique, Strand. 

Prince of Wales’s, Coventry Street, 
Haymarket. 

Princess’s, Oxford Street. 

Royalty, Dean Street, Soho. 

St. James’s, King Street, St. James’s. 
Savoy, Beaufort Buildings, Strand. 


Shaftesbury, Shaftesbury Avenue. 
Strand, Strand. 

Surrey, Blackfriars Road. 

Terry’s, Strand. 

Toole’s, King William Street, Strand. 
Vaudeville, Strand. 



Certain of the foregoing theatres have acquired a reputation 
in a particular line of dramatic art, as, for instance, the Lyceum 
in the representation of the serious drama, the Haymarket and 
St. James’s for comedy of the higher kind, the Savoy for light 
opera, the Gaiety for burlesque, the Adelphi for the melodrama, 
Toole’s for farcical comedy, Drury Lane for spectacular plays, 
the Surrey for melodrama of the old-fashioned kind, etc. The 
visitor to London may see, vve think, the best examples of the 
art of acting in England if he find time to visit the Lyceum, 
Savoy, Garrick, Haymarket, and Criterion, each of these, in its 
special line, having the best company that enterprise and money 
can secure. On the other hand, if he keep his eye on the 
newspapers, he is very sure to find at other theatres actors and 
actresses whose performances are well worth seeing. 

Mr. Daly’s Company of Comedians 
of New York will perform at the 
Lyceum during September, 
October and November. This 
will be welcome news to all who 
had the privilege of witnessing 
their admirable perform¬ 
ances in London last year. 
The representation of 
As You Like It by that 
company in London 
was an event of ex¬ 
ceptional interest to 
. the play-going world last 
season ; and the rendering 
of Rosalind by Miss Ada Rehan attracted more than ordinary 


140 


London of To-Day. 


attention. Miss Rehan’s Rosalind is a delightfully fresh and 
unconventional reading of the part. One of the best known 
of our dramatic critics remarking upon her performance, says: 
“ While the love of Rosalind for Orlando is of course the pre¬ 
dominant feature, the actress blends such admirable touches of 
comedy, such graceful sentiment and brilliant humour, as to 
make her conception of the character exquisite. It is a combina¬ 
tion of everything that is picturesque, natural, and artistic. Her 
scenes in the forest with Orlando were in the best vein of Shake¬ 
spearean comedy, and her delivery of the text was full of point and 
significance. Miss Rehan’s fascinating style has seldom pleased 
the audience so much as in this character, which suits her perfectly. 
Her musical voice gives adeqate expression and variety to the 
changing moods of the heroine, and she presents a graceful ap¬ 
pearance in masculine costume. The high-water mark of Miss 
Ada Rehan’s ability as an actress is seen in her Rosalind. 

“Excellent support was given by Mr. John Drew as Orlando. 
His admirable delivery deserved commendation, while in the 
scenes with Rosalind in the forest Mr. Drew was at his best. 
Mr. James Lewis was the Touchstone, a quaint, dry, and effective 
representative of the character ; he delivered the speeches of the 
immortal clown with appropriate humour, and his stage business 
was excellent. Mr. George Clarke was careful and efficient as 
the melancholy Jacques, giving the ‘Seven Ages’ speech with 
effect. As Celia, Miss Adelaide Prince was bright and agreeable 
in her acting; and the oddities of Audrey afforded full scope for the 
humour of Miss Isabel Irving. Phoebe, the scornful shepherdess, 
was prettily played by Miss Edith Crane. Corin, by Mr. C. 
Leclercq, and Sylvius, by Mr. F. Bond, were adequately rendered, 
and as Amiens Mr. Macauley sang agreeably. Merit was seen in 
the representation of the smaller characters. 

“ Taking the performance as a whole, Mr. Daly’s company 
may be credited with having distinguished themselves, while 
in the more prominent parts the acting was entitled to rank 
with the best seen on the English stage. Miss Ada Rehan, Mr 


The Theatres . 


141 

John Drew, and Mr. James Lewis deserved the highest praise 
for their finished and artistic embodiment of their respective 
characters.” 

Theatre-parties are 
among the fashions of 
modern London so¬ 
ciety. A dinner party 
sometimes forms the 
prelude — not unfre- 
quently a wedding. A 
row of stalls is booked 
for host and guests; 
and all drive off to the 
theatre, after the house- 
festivities are con¬ 
cluded. A wedding 
feast or a pleasant 
dinner party suggests 
light and agreeable 
music as the most 
befitting conclusion. 

“ The Savoy ” was the theatre chiefly in favour with theatre- 
parties. Now, perhaps, it will be the Royal English Opera 
House. 

The Court Theatre (next Sloane Square railroad station) is a 
favourite fashionable rendezvous after the dinner hour, with 
those who find in Comedy, rather than the severer Drama, 
the most invigorating digestive after the usual six courses and 
dessert. 

Drury Lane affords a fine opportunity to those for whom the 
“grand spectacular drama” has attractions. 

Of the Lyceum, and what it offers patrons of the theatre, it 
is hardly necessary to write. To see Mr. Irving in this, that, 
or the other “part,” is one of the common excuses for coming 
to London. 









142 


London of To-Day. 

The Haymarket Theatre Company, which that admirable actor, 
Mr. Beerbohm-Tree, leads and manages, is one of the best and 
most carefully selected in London. 

The Adelphi Theatre is the favourite resort of suburban 
people. It still thrives upon the “ creepy ”—or what was once 
called “transpontine”—form of drama. To persons who like 
that style it will be found entertaining. Fightings and shootings, 
threatenings and abductions, with the usual concomitants of 
skilfully arranged scenery, are among the chief. 

The Gaiety nowadays often changes its companies. It is not 
safe to prophesy what is forthcoming in any season. In general, 
burlesque. 

The Prince of Wales’s has made its reputation with light 
opera, which, having served it so well, it will probably look for 
similar service, from similar sources. 

St. James’s Theatre still keeps to comedy to secure patronage. 

Terry’s Theatre, with Mr. Terry as the leading attraction, is 
invariably productive of mirth. With Mr. Terry in the bills, we 
can suggest no theatre so likely as his to bring a Metropole 
dinner to a satisfactory conclusion. 

Toole’s Theatre should not be missed. A high authority in 
the theatrical world has named its genial and popular lessee 
“the droll” of London. One must always do the thing to be 
in the fashion; and one of the things to be done is to go to 
Mr. Toole’s Theatre. 

The Vaudeville is not far away. Mark it down on the tablets 
as unusually successful in the production of some worthy 
examples of modern comedy from the old Masters. 

Comedy is also the strong point of the Criterion Theatre, and 
its company is unusually well able to cope with the best modern 
examples in that department of dramatic work. The contiguity 
of the theatre to the restaurant, and of the stalls to the fashion¬ 
able “ East Room,” invites the well-dined epicurean to the play, 
which at the Criterion is generally conducive of healthful gaiety 
of spirits. 


The Theatres. 


143 


The Shaftesbury Theatre is one of the recent additions to 
the London theatres. By general consent of its patrons it is 
said to possess the best 
“ pit ” in London. 

“ The Lyric,” not far away 
in the same thoroughfare, is 
more recent still; and the 
Garrick (Mr. Hare’s Theatre) 
is of yet later date. 

That old favourite, the Prin¬ 
cess’s, mostly produces now 
the severer form of Drama, 
which, perhaps, is more in 
favour with younger than 
older patrons of the theatre. 

When one is young he can 
better digest strong food. 

As regards the New Olympic Theatre, Mr. Wilson Barrett, 
believing that high prices tend to make Playgoing too expensive 
a luxury to be often indulged in, has determined to adopt the 
following scale of charges:—Private boxes, £1 is. to £2 ioj. ; 
stalls, 6 j. ; dress circle, 5.?.; upper boxes, 3s .; pit, 2 s .; gallery, 
is. The reduction in the prices will not in any way affect the 
character of the performances, we are told. It is calculated that 
the theatre will hold about ^350, a sum far in excess of the 
probable expenses attending the production of high-class 
romantic and historical plays, upon which class of drama it is 
the intention of the management of the New Olympic mainly 
to rely. 

The Opera Comique, the Strand, and the Avenue Theatres can 
generally show some pretty plays, good actors, and attractive 
actresses; and where these essentials of theatrical success are 
combined, the public is not slow to avail itself of the accommo¬ 
dation provided in stalls and boxes. 

The Empire and Alhambra Theatres in Leicester Square are 



144 


London of To-Day. 

favoured homes of the Ballet. Gentlemen, as we know, rather 
than ladies are its best patrons ; though why a lady may not, 
seated by the side of her husband, find some attraction in well- 
arranged dances and pretty scenery and inspiriting music, and 
last, not least, graceful and shapely and handsomely dressed 
women, is one of those mysteries which perhaps can best 
be explained by the fact that Ballet is danced by women 
solely. 

The London theatrical season runs from September to the 
end of July. In boxes, stalls, and dress circle it is usual, 
during May, June and July, though not positively compulsory 
at all theatres, to appear in evening dress, as at the Opera, 
Cloak-rooms, refreshment-rooms, and here and there smoking- 
rooms, are provided at the leading theatres. A front seat in the 
“pit” is as good as any in the house; but as this is seldom to 
be obtained without much patience and no little discomfort in 
waiting for the doors to open, and is hardly desirable in the case 
of ladies, we advise the “dress circle” or “upper circle” as 
moderate in respect of price. A “stall” on a “first night” is 
worth striving for, and will repay the curiosity of the playgoer. 
One may generally see then gathered together the most promi¬ 
nent dramatic authors, critics, and theatrical patrons of London. 
To the more venturesome the pit on such occasions offers 
many attractions, though fewer comforts. Theatrical “ first 
nights ” of late years in London have, however, been few and 
far between. 

The theatres generally open their doors at 7.30, some few at 7 ; 
and the performance of the principal piece usually commences 
at 8 or 8.15. There are “Box” or ticket offices, open daily 
from 10 to 5, at all the theatres, at which seats may be booked 
in advance. The prices of admission range from is. for a seat 
in the gallery to £3 3s., £4 4?., or even as high as ^8 8s., for 
a private box. The popular prices are: Pit, 2s.; amphitheatre, 
2s. 6 d .; upper circle, 3s. and 4s. ; upper boxes, 4s.; and dress 
circle, 6s.; stalls are half-a-guinea each. 


The Theatres . 


145 



“scene from a night off.” 


At some of the London theatres a payment is exacted, varying 
trom 2 d. to 6 d., for a programme; as if a programme were not 
necessary to a proper understanding of the performance. If 
actors and actresses were wise, they themselves would combine 
to protest against this petty exaction, for frequently playgoers 
resist the demand, which is no less to the player’s loss, who 
lives by publicity, than the playgoer’s, who cannot follow the 
play. 

It may be hoped, as there are rumours in the air of the Prince 
of Wales setting the example of dining earlier, that we shall 
have our Plays presented also earlier, and so get to bed betimes. 
Thus we may rise the more refreshed the next morning and the 
better able to cope with the further business of Pleasure, always 
sufficiently pressing in London. 


I'l 


146 


London of To-Day . 


Chapter XIV. 

MISCELLANEOUS ENTERTAINMENTS. 



MR. AND MRS. GERMAN REEDS. 

/^VF miscellaneous entertainments there is never any lack in 
London, as every successful “showman” makes, or endea¬ 
vours to make, it a resting-place in his travels round the world. 

Some of these, at one 
time transient and 
shifting, have become 
established in Lon¬ 
don, and now take 
their place alongside 
of the theatres" in 
competing for the 
patronage of the pub¬ 
lic. Of such, “ Mr. 
and Mrs. German 
Reed’s Entertain¬ 
ment,” given at St. 
George’s Hall, Lang- 
ham Place, has long 
taken the lead in pub¬ 
lic favour. It com¬ 
prises a little excellent music, and a little excellent acting, and 
a good deal of merriment of one kind and another, the whole 
managed and arranged by a group of admirable performers, of 
which Messrs. Alfred Reed and Corney Grain are the leading 
spirits. This cheery little company of players represents one of 
the most popular institutions of modern London, that of the 
so-called drawing-room entertainment. 


MR. CORNEY GRAIN. 















- 
























Mr. Maskelyne cuts off Mr. Cook’s Head 













































































Miscellaneous Entertainments. 


14 7 


THE EGYPTIAN HALL, PICCADILLY. 

Mr. J. N. Maskelyne not unfitly names this time-honoured 
Institution of West End London “ England’s Home of Mystery,” 
albeit there is little to mystify about Mr. Maskelyne himself. 
He is the most frank and communicative of modern illusionists, 
and frankly tells you that his excellent entertainment is mere 
clever invention, designed to amuse but not to trick. His spiri¬ 
tualistic exposes were the talk of London a few years back. As 
the public denouncer of the slippery spiritualist brethren and 
their idiotic frauds, he gained the thanks of the community. 
All the tricks of the professional media were in turn very skil¬ 
fully presented at the Egyptian Hall by Mr. Maskelyne ; and 
his quiet humour and genial sincerity in turning a good strong 
light on the mysterious motions of “spirits” in the air, under 
the table, locked in cabinets, bound with ropes, or otherwise 
embarrassed, long delighted the town. 

He still entertains it every evening at 8 o’clock, and on six 
afternoons of the week at 3, by a little first-rate juggling, very 
cleverly manipulated; an amusing and sensational sketch, in 
which his partner’s head is apparently removed from his body ; 
an excellent display of sleight of hand by a lady and gentleman ; 
and a capital spiritualistic skit with very startling effects. 

This Egyptian Hall School of Mystery is one of the most 
interesting to study in. Mr. Maskelyne has the inventive faculty 
strongly developed, not merely in regard of his professional 
work, but outside of it. A man of his stamp is always enter¬ 
taining and instructive; and if our readers only gain half the 
information from him that we have, their holiday-shillings will 
be productive of very generous interest. 

MR. GEORGE GROSSMITH. 

Mr. George Grossmith, most admirable incentive of merriment, 
having closed his career at the Savoy Theatre, has entered the 
ranks of public entertainers on his own account, and probably 


14B 


London of To-Day. 

we shall hear him during the season in London, elsewhere than 
in the privileged drawing-rooms of Belgravia, Tyburnia and 
Mayfair. 


THE MOORE AND BURGESS MINSTRELS. 

This entertainment is a very old favourite, and a survival of a 
very old favourite. Its beginnings might, we think, be traced to 
“Jim Crow,” whose cacophonous strains so captivated Londoners 

nearly fifty years ago. 
The Ethiopian Serena¬ 
des brought a new plea¬ 
sure to our shores some 
eight or ten years after 
“Jump Jim Crow” had 
left them. Then came 
the Christy Minstrels, 
special favourites of our 
boyhood. These again 
gave place to the popular 
performers of to-day, un¬ 
der direction of Messrs. 
Moore and Burgess, who 
for more than twenty 
years have been helping 
to amuse London. To 
the “Ethiopian” and the 
“ Christy” Minstrels we 
are indebted for many 
a favourite melody long 
since forgotten. Thirty years ago “ Lucy Neal,” “ The Dandy 
Broadway Swell,” “Old Uncle Ned,” “Way down upon de 
Swanee Ribber,” “ Massa’s in de Cold, Cold Ground,” “ Old 
Dog Tray,” “ Hard Times,” and other melodies of these singers 
were as popular as those of Henry Russell. 

Of the thousands whom these, and between two and three 



MR. MOORE. 


Miscellaneous Entertainments. 149 

hundred other popular songs from the same hand moved to 
laughter or to tears, few ever heard the name of the author. 

“ He must have passed,” says an American writer, “ unnoticed 
through the streets, when from every lighted concert room, from 
almost every family circle, from every hand-organ, or roaming 
ballad-singer’s lips, were poured forth his irresistible melodies.” 
His name was Stephen Collins Foster, a native of Pennsylvania, 
born in 1826. His songs were translated into most of the 
European languages, and published by tens of thousands in 
England. He was taken ill in a hotel in the Bowery, and carried 
to a hospital, where he died in 1864. 

THE CRYSTAL PALACE AT SYDENHAM. 

There are two primary attractions at the Crystal Palace— 
the Saturday Concerts and the Fireworks. The concerts, under 
Mr. Manns’ direction, are second to none in England; the fire¬ 
works (belonging to the season of summer only) as a display 
are second to none anywhere. 

On a fine summer’s day the Sydenham resort is one of the 
pleasantest holiday-rendezvous around London. It is easy 
of access from almost any London railway-station ; and the 
price of a first-class return-ticket, including admission, is but 
half-a-crown. 

You may be sure of having your money’s worth in-doors or out- 
of-doors. There are the always interesting classical courts and 
picture galleries to be inspected within ; and on certain specified 
days (for which see the daily newspapers), excellent theatrical 
performances, daily concerts, and the like to be seen and 
listened to. Without, you- have a fine view of suburban 
London, with picturesque range of lawns, shrubberies, and 
gardens to roam about; a lake to boat upon ; the fountains 
at play to add to the charm of the scene ; and pastoral ballets, 
illuminated walks, and (on Thursdays) fireworks to keep you 
interested after dinner. 

The Flower Shows, than which few exhibitions are prettier, 


i5o 


London of To-Day . 

take place periodically in April, May, June and July. The 
great Rose Show (which all should see who love roses—and who 
does not ?) is usually held at the beginning of the latter month. 

The curious American visitor should not fail to note the great 
popular festivals at the Crystal Palace: Easter Monday, Whit 
Monday, August Bank Holiday, Choral Meetings and Society 
Fetes. These are well worth being present at, if one desires to 
enlarge his knowledge of mankind, and especially of England’s 
portion of it. 

There are certain permanent exhibitions at the Crystal Palace, 
besides those of the several Courts, which are well worthy the 
attention of visitors. Chief among these is the Picture Gallery, 
under the capable and painstaking direction of Mr. C. Wentworth 
Wass. It contains an interesting collection of examples of the 
modern English and other schools, periodically contributed so 
as to form independent exhibitions, such as are to be found 
elsewhere in London, and usually comprising not a few pictures 
by artists of well-known reputation. There is an annual Art 
Union in connection with the principal exhibition; and medals 
are offered by the Directors for competition among the contri¬ 
butors, the elected judges being members of the Royal Academy, 
or other equally competent Art-authority. 

On the whole, the Crystal Palace Art Gallery is every way 
entitled to the support of artists and the public both. To the 
first-named it provides advantageous opportunity for the periodi¬ 
cal exhibition of works of merit, which pass-under the review 
of professional critics ; and as regards the public, it offers an 
agreeable and pleasing variety to the numerous other daily 
attractions the Crystal Palace itself affords. 

The Museum, too, in the First Gallery, on the Garden side of 
the Palace, is deserving mention. It comprises a collection of 
exceptional interest, formed and arranged by the late Dr. David 
S. Price, including illustrations of matters connected with Arctic 
Exploration; specimens illustrating the manners and customs 
of the Yarkand and Tibet Court; also of Modern Egypt, and 


Miscellaneous Entertainments. 151 

various relics and products of the Tasmanian Colony aboriginal, 
and of modern date. There is a Chinese Court; and last, not 
least, the Pompeian House, a reproduction of portions of the 
residence of a Roman nobleman contemporary with Pompeii. 

The Refreshment Department, an always essential part of 
every popular institution, allows of considerable latitude in the 
way of personal expenditure, ranging from that entailed upon the 
modest luncheon, to that of the more costly dinner a la haute 
cuisine Frangaise , pre-arranged with the appointed authority. 
The French Court provides an agreeable retreat for afternoon 
tea, and there are the Terrace Dining Rooms, and a well- 
furnished Grill-room for all and sundry thitherward attracted at 
the appointed hours. 

With very great pleasure we print the following letter from 
an old friend touching this Institution :—“ I have travelled much, 
and I unhesitatingly say, that the Crystal Palace is unique in the 
world. It has no counterpart, and nothing to compare with it. 
Its amusements are first-class. Nearly all the best theatrical per¬ 
formances appearing there, in the afternoons at cheap prices;- 
occasional operas, a pantomime second to none. The Classical 
Concerts, which I seldom fail to attend, are simply a i ; and there 
are probably not more than one, or perhaps two, as fine bands as 
the Crystal Palace Band in England. It has replicas of works 
of Art existing nowhere else, and which can never be replaced; 
for, when'the Palace was started the Royal Family and the 
Government exerted themselves, and the Crystal Palace has 
copies of works of Art from all countries, especially from Italy, 
obtained by their influence, which the laws of Italy now would 
prevent any parties whatever obtaining in future. The various 
shows, as the recent Mining Exhibition' (absolutely unique in 
Europe), the Dog Show annually held, and the Poultry Show, are 
all absolutely first-class. The Institution is a great national one, 
and its loss, if it should ever occur, would be nothing short of a 
national calamity. There are few things of which the country 
may be more proud, and Americans, as I frequently heard when 


152 


London of To-Day . 

there, willingly admit it. I have omitted to mention its Educa¬ 
tional institutions, which are excellent. The theme is one on 
which you may well dilate, with the strictest and most conscien¬ 
tious accuracy, and, in so doing, you will be doing a service to 
your readers. This year, as you know, the Handel Festival (an 
institution again unique, and without a rival) will be held.” 

MADAME TUSSAUD’S WAXWORKS. 

There is our old friend, Madame Tussaud, of “Waxwork” fame, 
long established and justly celebrated, whose portrait-models ol 
every one of any notoriety, worthies and unworthies from kings 
and princes to hangmen and assassins, need no particular mention 
from us to make their repute known to the public. A new home 
has been found for the famous collection of waxwork figures, close 
to Baker Street Station, conspicuous to the evening visitor by the 
well-lighted domes of glass which crown the edifice. 

THE MUSIC-HALLS. 

In that admirable piece of 
comedy, “The Newcomes,” the 
curtain rises upon a Drinking 
Chorus. The set-scene is the 
Cave of Harmony (by long odds 
the best example of a London 
music-hall we have ever known ; 
albeit somewhat too oozy in its 
day of whisky and tobacco); and 
the personages of the little comedy 
are the worthy Colonel and young 
Clive, Pendennis (of Lamb Court), 

Jones (of Trinity), King (of Corpus), 

Martin (of Trinity Hall), Young 
Nadab, Hoskins, the host, various 
minor personages of the stage, 




Miscellaneous Entertainments. 153 

and that shameless reprobate and hoary old sinner, Captain 
Costigan. 

Jones of Trinity (a fellow of very kind feeling, who, later, went 
into the Church), nudges Hoskins and passes him a pencilled 
slip of paper, hinting that a boy is in the room, and a gentleman 
“ who is quite a greenhorn ; ” hence that the songs to be sung that 
evening had better be carefully selected. 

So Hoskins pipes his inoffensive “ Old English Gentleman all 
of the olden time; ” the Colonel makes bold to follow with 
“ Wapping Old Stairs ; ” Young Nadab improvises a tolerable 
song d firofios (which carries a harmless refrain of ritolderol- 
ritolderol-ritolderolderay) ; and all goes decently and pleasantly 
at the Cave till Costigan happens in. Then this ex-captain in 
the king’s army, “ setting his face into a grin, and leering as 
he was wont,” volunteers one of his “ prime songs ”—a song 
fired off with a tipsy howl and breaking into a boisterous strain 
of disgusting ribaldry. Whereupon the Colonel impetuously 
rises to his feet, seizes his hat and stick, demands of old Costigan 
if he dares to call himself a gentleman qualified “to sit down 
amongst Christians and men of honour,” scowls round upon the 
entire company of scared bacchanalians, and indignantly stalks 
away, his boy after him. King (of Corpus) winces; Jones (of 
Trinity) smarts; Pendennishas recourse to his conscience and inter¬ 
leaves a paragraph ; Hoskins questions his honour; and Costigan 
once more falls upon his own, sodden, whipped and inarticulate. 

Readers of Thackeray will recall the sequel in Mr. Arthur 
Pendennis’s chambers in the Temple, wherein the Colonel, 
descanting upon the roistering habits of Messieurs Tom Jones 
and Joseph Andrews and the gay sparks of their day, delivers 
his own opinion upon the attitude to be observed by a gentleman 
in regard of his pleasures. Boozing, fuddling, and listening to 
indelicate songs indecently sung, were not, in his view, habits 
that a gentleman might properly indulge in. 

He had gone to the Cave to enjoy his after-dinner cigar, sip his 
sherry-cobbler, meet the wits (if haply any should be present), 


154 


London of To-Day. 

give his boy a little treat, and also to hear a glee or two, or a 
ballad, becomingly rendered according to the programme. There 
was no harm in that. ’Til Costigan appeared upon the scene 
“ a lady’s school might have come in; and but for the smell of 
brandy-and-water and cigars, have taken no harm by what had 
happened.” Thackeray says so ; and Thackeray was a gentleman. 

“ Caves of Harmony ” and “ Back Kitchens ” are no longer the 
vogue in London. “ Palaces of Variety” and “ Halls of Dazzling 
Light ’ have taken their place. We are not altogether sure that 
London has profited by the change. “ Evans’s,” we make bold 
to say, was (save on “ Boat-race night,” when a gang of ill-con¬ 
ditioned boys made things uncomfortable)—“ Evans’s,” in the old 
days, and minus Captain Costigan, was, to our thinking, the best 
example of a music-hall the Metropolis has known. In lieu of 
the Glees, Madrigals, Choruses, and Part Songs belonging to its 
pleasant repertoire we now have a programme of twaddling comic 
songs, set to snatchy music; character sketches, of not very original 
rendering; a little juggling, tumbling, and tomfoolery of the 
“ variety ” order ; and here and there a good ballet or two, which 
is the most attractive item in the evening’s entertainment. 

The cigars and brandy-and-water business remains as hereto¬ 
fore, and is, so to say, the treble-lined “ whip ” to all and sundry 
to attend the music-hall entertainment. Without that business, 

0 

two-thirds of the London music-halls might as well close their 
doors, and their respective proprietors and directors turn their 
attention to co-operative stores, and other enterprising adventures 
of commerce. Take away the privilege of smoking and drinking 
from the music-hall, and little is left but twaddle and pantomime. 

The London County Council, however, has lately had these 
places in review and initiated a kind of “ Pride’s Purge ” in the 
matter of their management. Old Costigan will, henceforward, 
be refused admission, and his disciples will have to attemper 
their singing, if not with wit, at all events with decency. 
Mesdames Stephanie and Blanche Rose will have to be more 
circumspect in the arrangement of their skirts. Hoskins has 


The Music-Halls. 


155 


been warned to look to his managerial P’s and Q’s. And little 
Nadab must consider the manner of his predecessors. Music- 
halls, we are told, ought to be a place for harmless amusement 
and respectable people. “ Prime songs ” are no longer in order, 
and coarseness and vulgarity are to be swept away. 

1 No end of virtuous promises have been from time to time 
made; and it is to be hoped that, as time goes on, we shall be 
in the way of having the better part of those promises fulfilled. 
“ We are not to expect in a music-hall” (we have been warned) 
“ the refined songs suitable to a concert given at a girls’ school; ” 
which is a kind of trifling with an intelligent man’s patience. 
But we may be allowed to hope for a fair measure of decency 
and decorum, and perhaps of harmless waggery and fun ; a song 
or two exhibiting some small parts of humour; a trifle of more 
originality in the business of the stage ; and, perhaps, a modicum 
of less trickery in the business of the bar! 

There is no reason why a gentleman should not take his son 
to a London music-hall and enjoy the entertainment, if the 
proprietors and managers would conduct their several establish¬ 
ments with somewhat of the circumspection exhibited by “Paddy” 
Green at “ Evans’s ” in the latter days of his direction, when 
Herr von Joel played upon the little tin whistle, and we ate of 
our chops and baked potato to the chorus of “ Up, rouse ye then, 
my merry, merry men.” To hear any such tuneful English glee 
in a London music-hall nowadays one must go to Whitechapel 
or the old-time “ Vic.,” where volunteer singers form the choir, and 
the poorer classes comprise the audience at 3 d. a head. 

The Pavilion, the Trocadero, the Empire, the Aquarium, and 
the Alhambra are representative of the music-hall of London of 
To-Day. The Empire and the Alhambra rely more upon the 
ballet than on songs and juggling to attract their patrons, and 
display the best-arranged of that kind of stage “ business ” to be 
seen in London. For the rest, you will get a better glass of 
punch, and a more fragrant cigar at any good London hotel, than 
at the best of the Music-halls. 


156 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XV. 


ART GALLERIES AND EXHIBITIONS. 



^'P'HE London Galleries of Art might be thus classified: (i) 
The permanent Public Galleries, such as the National, 
South Kensington, National Portrait, and kindred institutions ; (2) 
the periodical representative Exhibitions, such as those of the Royal 
Academy, the Royal Society, and Royal Institute of Painters 
in Water Colours ; (3) the supplementary major Exhibitions, such 







Art Galleries and Exhibitions. 


157 


as those of the New (Regent Street) Gallery; (4) the supplemen¬ 
tary minor Exhibitions, of which that of Boussod-Valadon & Co., 
of Bond Street, suggests a sufficient, and attractive, example. 

In the first three classes, the visitor, if he be in earnest, will 
find his most promising and productive fields of study and 
criticism. As regards the fourth, he may have to go far and wide 
to see what is worth seeing, and the search cannot always be 
said to be rich in results. Picture-dealers’ exhibitions are of very 
variable and fluctuating merit. Sometimes one finds a collection 
of unusual and commendable excellence, but not with great 
frequency ; and as for the pictorial rubbish, he may light upon 
representative examples of that in almost any street he has a 
mind to turn into, and without paying a shilling for admission to 
the shop where they are exhibited. 

The inauguration of the London Art Season takes place the 
last week of March, with the festival known as “ Show Sunday.” 
Afterwards, the galleries of the Water Colour societies are opened 
for the spring exhibitions. Then follow the “Critics’” and 
“ Private View” days at the Royal Academy and New Gallery in 
the last week of April. On the first Monday of May the doors of 
Burlington House are thrown open to the public, and thereafter 
reihain open till the last week of July. The visitor will be likely 
to find in each of these annual commemorations somewhat to 
arrest his attention, and perchance not a little to instruct and 
amuse him. 

“ Show Sunday ” is the day on which artists who exhibit, or 
hope to exhibit, at the Royal Academy and elsewhere receive 
their friends and friends’ friends at their studios. 

The artist-localities of London no longer centre in Fitzroy 
Square, as in the days of Clive Newcome, and Mr. Gandish. 
Within the last ten years they have become extended to the 
remoter suburbs of London—to Hampstead and Highgate on 
the north, Kensington and Chelsea in the west, Chiswick and 
Putney in the south. It is a far cry, as some people know, 
from the Chelsea Embankment to St. John’s Wood; and the 


158 


London of To-Day. 

picturesque settlements of Holland Park, at Kensington, are suffi¬ 
ciently remote from the ancient art regions of central London. 
Moreover, Highgate and Primrose Hill are not so nigh to 
Bedford Park, Chiswick, that a hansom cabman will accept, with 
graceful courtesy, a half-crown as his legal fare. 

To compass all these outlying districts, and in the intervals of 
driving and “entraining” (a word for which we have to thank 
the War Office), to twist through folds of silks and satins, and to 
view a great variety of pictures, and listen to a still greater variety 
of twaddling criticism concerning them—these are the ends of 
“ Show Sunday.” 

The great aim of everyone in London society is to be before¬ 
hand with everyone else. A Londoner of fashion, who is in a 
position to say he has seen all the pictures of the year, worth 
seeing, on “ Show Sunday,” is a more important person at May- 
fair dinner-tables than one who has to wait till the “ Critics’Day.” 
And he who has the entree to the Academy on the “ Critics’ Day ” 
is a greater person than he who has to wait till the “ Private View 
Day.” And he who has the entree then is to be preferred before 
one who has not. But the game is hardly worth the candle. As, 
however, there may be some who might wish to indulge in it, we 
can but point the way. Invitations for “ Show Sunday ” are 
to be procured through the introduction of any artist of position; 
though it might not be so easy to obtain admission to the studios 
of all the Academicians. This should be no great disappointment, 
and the visitor might find compensation in seeking out the studios 
of less illustrious artists. To receive an invitation to the galleries 
of the Royal Academy on “ Critics’ Day ” one should, of course, 
be the accredited representative of some journal of recognized 
position and influence, though, by the way, this is not so neces¬ 
sary now as in years gone by. 

The entree to the “ Private View Day,” a privilege eagerly 
sought in the fashionable world, is exclusively in the bestowal 
of the Royal Academicians. Influence in that direction would no 
doubt secure admission ; but the galleries are generally so over- 














































13 

. 







* 










Recent Addition to the National Collection. 

The Portrait oj Admiral Pulido-Pareja, ot the Spanish Armada, by Velazquez. 




























Art Galleries and Exhibitions. 159 

crowded that the chief delight is to be found, not in criticising 
the pictures, but in criticising the company. 

In the department of “ Private Views,” as of some others of 
our social life, the appetite may be said to grow with what it 
feeds on. One would suppose that a full dose of “ private view” 
on a Wednesday would limit the temptation to a second full 
dose on a Friday. But not so; the relish for this kind of London 
excitement is prodigious once it sets in. People will do “ the 
New” and half-a-dozen smaller Bond Street Galleries in a week, 
and crave for more. They are quite ready to tackle all the full 
Galleries of the Academy itself if these fall within the period; 
and having “ done the Galleries,” and beaten the record of their 
acquaintances and friends, they are content to rest from their 
labours, so far as the London Art season is concerned. The Art 
Galleries Private Views of London of To-Day are an awful ex¬ 
perience, not to add exercise of mind and body both. 

We should not omit to remind the reader here that the national 
exhibitions are—those of the National Gallery (in 1887 com¬ 
pletely reorganized); the National Portraits, temporarily at 
Bethnal Green Museum ; the Picture Gallery (Sheepshanks and 
Chantry Bequest) at the Museum, South Kensington; the 
recently opened City Art Gallery at Guildhall; to which may be 
added the collections at Hampton Court Palace, Dulwich College, 
the Soane Museum—all more particularly referred to elsewhere. 

The Royal Academy of Arts, Burlington House, Piccadilly, 
was instituted by George III. in 1768 ; one of the primary objects 
for which it was founded being “ the 'establishing of an annual 
exhibition open to all artists of distinguished merit, where they 
may offer their performances to public inspection, and acquire 
that degree of reputation and encouragement which they shall 
be deemed to deserve.” There are, at present, forty-one Royal 
Academicians and thirty Associate members, with various Hono¬ 
rary Retired Academicians, Honorary Foreign Academicians, 
Honorary Members, Professors, and a Secretary. 

The annual Royal Academy Summer Exhibition of pictures 


t6o 


London of To-Day. 


and statuary opens, as we have said, the first Monday in May, 
and continues until the last week in July. Admission from 8 a.m. 
till dusk ij., catalogue is. The last week of July the galleries 
are open from 7.30 till 10.30 p.m., the price of admission is 6 d. f 
and that of the catalogue 6 d. 

The Winter Royal Academy Exhibition of the works of Foreign 
Old Masters and of Deceased British Artists generally opens 
towards the end of December, and continues till March. Besides 
the exhibition galleries, there are in the Royal Academy building 
a theatre for lectures, etc., schools of art for male and female 
students, and a fine library. The Diploma and Gibson Gallery 
is open free daily from 11 a.m. till 4 p.m. 

The Royal Society of Painters in Water Colours, 5, Pall Mall 
East, S.W., was formed in 1804. The exhibition of the works 
of this society are held twice in the year, in April (continuing 
through the Season) and December. Admission is. 

The Royal Institute of 1 Painters in Water Colours, whose 
















Art Galleries and Exhibitions. 161 

location is the Art Galleries, Prince’s Hall, Piccadilly, was 
founded in the year 1831, as “ The New Society of Painters in 
Water Colours,” a title subsequently altered to that which it now 
bears. It holds exhibitions in the spring (continuing through 
the Season) and winter. Admission is. 

The Society of British Artists, Suffolk Street, Pall Mall East 
founded in 1823, “for the erection of an extensive gallery for 
the Annual Exhibition and Sale of the Works of Living Artists 
of the United Kingdom in the various branches of Painting (in 
oil and water colours), Sculpture, Architecture, and Engraving, 
at the period when the tasteful and opulent are usually resident 
in the Metropolis, viz., during the months of April, May, June, 
and July.” It holds two exhibitions, one in the spring and one 
in the winter. The former opens in March; the latter in 
November. Admission is. 

The New Gallery, Regent Street, has now taken its place 
among the principal Art Galleries in London. It was established 
in 1888, and the usual summer exhibitions of the works of living 
artists have been held in May ; and in the autumn of each year 
the Arts and Crafts Exhibition Society has gathered together 
a collection of works of design and handicraft. In January 
of 1891 an interesting exhibition of pictures and relics of the 
Royal House of Guelph was held. This was preceded in 1890 by 
a collection illustrative of the Tudor period, both of which 
exhibitions were unusually successful. 

In addition to the foregoing, the visitor might find a good deal 
to interest him in the periodical exhibitions of Boussod-Valadon 
& Co. (116 & 117, New Bond Street). 

At the French Gallery (Pall Mall) may usually be seen a good 
collection of modern French pictures; at the Fine Art Society’s 
rooms (148, New Bond Street) water-colours, engravings, and 
etchings; at Agnew s in Old Bond Street examples of the modern 
English School; at McLean’s (7, Hay market) and at Tooth’s, near 
at hand, water colours and engravings, etc.; so also at Messrs. 
Dowdeswell’s (160, Bond Street); at Mr. Le Fevre’s in King 


162 London of To-Day. 

Street, St. James’s, and at Mr. J. P. Mendoza’s, also in King 
Street, St. James’s. 

The Dore Gallery, Limited, still holds to the old premises in 
New Bond Street, where so much money has hitherto been made 
by former proprietors, in the shillings of patrons, and by the sale 
of engravings of Dore’s works, of somewhat uneven merit be it 
added. 

Regarding the Grosvenor Gallery, heretofore included among 
the Art-institutions of West End London, Sir Coutts Lindsay has 
informed the public that he is “no longer able to carry on the 
yearly Exhibition of Works of Art in these Galleries, on account 
of the heavy loss it entails on his resources, the outlay consequent 
on the Exhibitions being far in excess of the counter-balancing 
receipts. The Galleries are now taken over by the Grosvenor 
Club, which, with the Circulating Library, will henceforth occupy 
the whole of the premises. It is with deep regret that he is con¬ 
strained to forego such efforts as he has been able to make in the 
cause of arts and artists by means of these Galleries during the 
last twelve years. He is, however, confident that the club now 
prospering in the Grosvenor will enable a large number of pic¬ 
tures, not necessarily works of the year, to pass under the eye of 
purchasers. It is proposed to hang these pictures on the walls 
of the Club Galleries, and they will be seen by many thousand 
people at the periodical receptions of the Club in the course of 
the Season, and will be for sale at the discretion of the exhibitor. 
These pictures will be changed from time to time ; and the Club 
intend, should the scheme take root, to give a yearly percentage 
on the capital they represent.” 


The May Meetings. 


163 


Chapter XVI. 

THE MAY MEETINGS. 

HERE is one feature of the Season, more particularly of the 
month of May, which is noteworthy. We are always 
reminded at this time of the year of how vast an organization 
of religious and philanthropic effort the English Metropolis is the 
centre. A great stream of beneficent intention and endeavour, 
which is running silently all the year, comes to the surface in the 
spring, and observers are astonished at its vast volume and its 
unfailing flow. The May Meetings in London are the outward 
and visible signs of the quiet work which goes on, Otherwise 
unnoted, all over the United Kingdom, and all round the world. 
There is no part of it where men are in need, no social stratum 
of England’s own population, in which some of the societies 
which meet in Exeter Hall during the two months from the 
middle of April till the middle of June, are not engaged in a 
struggle against ignorance and evil. The sums of money collected 
and expended every year in these efforts tell up to millions. 
The money has to be gathered on the one hand and distributed 
on the other by organizations which need for their successful 
maintenance unflagging effort and zeal. The vast sums dealt 
with in the reports read at these May meetings are usually made 
up of small contributions, and their number and vast aggregate 
amount are striking signs of the diffused wealth and the more 
widely spread philanthropy of English society. The most signi¬ 
ficant feature of these meetings is the vast background of national 
feeling which they embody and represent. Whatever drawbacks 
may be associated with the organizations themselves, and how¬ 
ever large the expenditure on mere machinery may be, the one 


164 


London of To-Day. 


striking fact which stands out above all others is, that a vast 
proportion of the English people are ready year by year to give 
considerable sums of money for purposes which are entirely 
unselfish, their personal interest in which is solely that of 
religious or philanthropic feeling. 


THE SALVATION ARMY. 

The world has recently heard so much of this organization and 
its work in “ Darkest England ” that it would seem supererogatory 
to indulge herein in any particular references to it. Everyone 
by this time knows that it is a religious outcome of London of 
To-Day: an enthusiastic aggregate of men and women marshalled 
and officered by General Booth, his relations, friends and 
adherents; the rank and file comprising many thousands male 
and female, working, as they conceive, for the spiritual salvation 
of sinners, and assuredly for the temporal advantage of the 
outcast and poverty-stricken of the Metropolis. 

The Headquarters of the Army may be found in Queen 
Victoria Street, City. Thitherward, the inquiring stranger 
should direct his steps, if he wish to make himself better 
acquainted with its work, which can hardly fail to be otherwise 
than interesting to the serious-minded. However opinions may 
differ as to the lawfulness of the encroachments of the Army 
on the peacefulness of neighbourhoods, few will gainsay the 
right of its members to worship God in their own way, and still 
fewer will withhold sympathy in their endeavours to reclaim 
the outcast and fallen. 


Some Resorts of the People. 


165 


Chapter XVII. 

SOME RESORTS OF THE PEOPLE. 


THE PEOPLE’S PALACE IN EAST LONDON. 


\ 7TSITORS who buy our book may wish to see a building 

» specially designed and set apart for the people’s recreation 
in the poor district of East London. Then let them go to the 
People’s Palace in the Mile End Road, which they may reach by 
omnibus or rail—from the Bank in the one case, or Liverpool 
Street railway terminus in the other—and study that bazaar of 
popular recreation. 

The various sections of work undertaken by the Beaumont 
Trustees at the People’s Palace under the chairmanship of that 
indefatigable citizen, Sir Edmund Hay Currie, may be briefly 
stated as follows :— 

1. Works especially for young folks, as represented by the 
People’s Palace Institute. 

2. The Recreative and Literary Department for the public, by 
means of the Free Library, Exhibitions, Concerts, etc. 

3. The Educational Section, open to both sexes of all ages. 

In the first department of their work many Social and Recrea¬ 
tive Clubs, such as Debating, Sketching, Choral, Band, and 
Athletic Clubs, have been started, and are at present in a most 
successful condition, showing an enrolled strength of over 4,000 
young men and women, paying a subscription at the rate of 
ys. 6 d. and $s. per annum respectively. 

In the Gymnasium 1,500 of the men are enrolled as members, 
also some 300 of the girls are regular attendants, whilst a further 
200 occasionally avail themselves of the advantages of the calis- 
thenic instruction given. Several public Gymnastic Displays 


166 London of To-Day. 

have been given, notably those before H.R.H. the Prince of 
Wales, the Earl of Rosebery, the Duke of Westminster, K.G., 
and other personages of rank. 

Difficulty being experienced in this over-populated district, of 
affording adequate facilities for Cricket and Football matches, 
the Corporation of the City of London granted the use of about 
ten acres of the Wanstead Flats, very easy of access from the 
Palace, to the members of those Clubs. 

A fine Swimming Bath (given by the Earl of Rosebery), 200 
feet long, is another special attraction to the Palace members, 
who obtain admission at a fee of 2d. 

The efforts of the Trustees in catering for the general public 
have been marked by great success. The special features of 
this department have been the Concerts, Exhibitions, Shows, 
etc., held from time to time in the Queen’s Hall. 

The Concerts are given throughout the winter on Monday 
and Saturday evenings ; and at these the Trustees have been 
assisted by numerous Choirs, Musical Societies, Bands, etc. 
Special reference might be made to the Handel Society, the 
Guildhall School of Music, the Stock Exchange Orchestral 
Society, the Popular Musical Union, the Scots Guards Band, 
etc., etc. These concerts have proved immensely attractive. 
They commence at eight o’clock, and the charge is now 3 d. to 
all parts of the hall. On Saturdays it fills to overflowing, and 
half-an-hour before the time of commencement the announce¬ 
ment is generally made that the hall is full; 4,000 is the 
average attendance, and it is calculated that these concerts 
will pay the expenses of maintaining the new library. 

The Shows and Exhibitions have included Poultry and Flower 
Shows, Apprentices’ Exhibitions; a Dog, Cat, and Rabbit Show; 
and a Workmen’s Industrial Exhibition. 

The Literary Section, as represented by the Reading Room 
and Library, is largely used by the working classes, and augurs 
well for the success of the handsome Library and Reading Room. 
As an indication of the success of this department of the work, 


Some Resorts of the People. 167 

it is only necessary to say that over 800,000 persons visited the 
Palace within a period of eight months, either for the Exhi¬ 
bitions, Concerts, or in order to use the Reading Room and 
Library. 

Such in brief are matters of interest in connection with the 
People’s Palace in East London ; at all events to those who find 
in London somewhat more than a mere fair-ground of perpetual 
pleasure and selfish enjoyment. 

TOYNBEE HALL. 

Those who make the pilgrimage to East London will find in 
Oxford House and Toynbee Hall noteworthy examples of the 
benevolent movements of the day in behalf of the working 
classes of London. The first stands but a short distance from 
the Bethnal Green Station of the Great Eastern Railroad (Liver¬ 
pool Street terminus); the second is in Commercial Street, 
Whitechapel, a continuation of Fenchurch Street and Aldgate, 
in the City district. 

Oxford House and Toynbee Hall are often known by the 
name of the “University Settlements” in East London. Of 
late years there has been a great and growing interest in the 
condition of the East End, in which the English Universities 
have largely shared. 

Two colleges at Oxford, and nearly every college at Cam¬ 
bridge, have a religious mission in that poor immense region, 
which is a city of itself. Some of the great Public Schools have 
a similar mission, and various clergymen are turning their 
University training to good account in the course of their labours. 
Oxford House and Toynbee Hall have their special aims, and a 
unique interest of their own. Of all the new agencies at work 
for the poor, these are perhaps the most typical of the present 
time, and, with the exception of the People’s Palace, have 
attracted the largest share of general attention. 

Each is of recent foundation (1881), and each seems to aim 


London of To-Day. 


168 

at the same idea of friendship and co-operation between the 
Universities and the so-called masses, in offering such leisure 
and knowledge as is available from the cultured classes to those 
who need them; and by practical association with the life of a 
working city, to obtain some of the necessary data for dealing 
with the great social questions of London of To-Day. 


PLAYGROUNDS AND PLEASURE-PLACES OF THE PEOPLE. 



The great anniversaries of the London year are Easter Mon¬ 
day, Whit Monday, the first Monday in August, and the day 

following Christmas Day— 
commonly known as Bank 
Holidays. 

On either of these days 
the stranger with¬ 
in our gates may 
witness the inte¬ 
resting spectacle 
of the People at 
Play. 

Their favourite 
open-air resorts are 
Epping Forest (on 
the Great Eastern 
Railroad); Hampton 
Court, Bushey Park, 
Richmond, Kew, and Windsor (on the South 
Western); Hampstead Heath and Highgate Woods (on the 
north side of London) ; Greenwich Park, Blackheath, and Clap- 
ham and Tooting Commons (on the south) ; Battersea Park (on 
the west); Victoria Park, London Fields, and Hackney Downs 
(on the east,). 

Other great trysting-places of the working and artisan classes 
on these holidays are the Zoological Gardens in the Regent’s 


Some Resorts of the People. 169 

Park; the Crystal Palace at Sydenham ; the South Kensington 
and Natural History Museums at Kensington; the Tower of 
London, by the Thames; the Museum at Bethnal Green; and 
the People’s Palace in the Mile End Road. 

On one Bank Holiday (Whit Monday), no fewer than an 
aggregate of 80,000 gathered on Hampstead Heath, and 37,400 
persons “booked” by train from Liverpool Street to (Chingford) 
Epping Forest; and to adjacent stations travelled another 
22,600. 

On the same Bank Holiday, 26,413 persons passed the pay- 
turnstiles of the Zoological Gardens ; 19,992 those of the South 
Kensington Museum; 13,000 visited the People’s Palace, and 
65,546 went to the Crystal Palace. 

The State Apartments at Windsor (a half-crown return railway 
fare from London), were inspected by 6,753 persons; and the 
Tower of London (very limited in space), by 9,002. 

The total amounts to 280,706 persons at play in and near 
London, taking no account of 53,713 of the people who paid 
for river-trips by steamer ; of the 13,682 who booked “in twelve 
special trains ” for Brighton; or of those who needed eighteen 
“ cheap trains ” to take them to Kempton Park for the races. 

On the first Monday in August, when our treacherous climate 
admits of it, the working population of London go farther afield 
into the Country and to the Seaside. The scene at Margate, on 
the Kentish coast, on that day, would be difficult to match in 
any popular resort in the world. 


London oj To-Day. 


170 


Chapter XVIII. 

HINTS FOR DRIVES AND EXCURSIONS. 

T T is not easy to say much that is new upon this topic. Every. 
^ one knows the Parks. To the parks of London we have 
referred in one of the opening chapters of our book. No one 
requires to be told that a drive in “ the 
Park”—that is to say Hyde Park—is one 
of the commonest ways of killing time in 
the London Season. It is not the sort of 
drive that would commend itself (isn’t 
“ride” the correct American phrase?) to 
a gentleman, say, of the Silas Lapham 
school, to whom fast trotters on a clear 
road are the principal inducements to out¬ 
door exercise. But such as it is, the 
Hyde Park drive on a June afternoon is 
not to be lightly written of. As a means 
of seeing the great world, it presents many 
attractions. To be seen of the great world 
one’s self is another inducement. For the 
sole purpose of rolling on wheels and tak¬ 
ing the air briskly, it is the very worst 
drive that ever was known—that is to say 
—from 5 to 7 p.m. in the London Season. 

A far more interesting and bracing exercise would be to drive 
through Piccadilly and cross the river to Battersea Park, thence 
through Wandsworth to Kingston Vale, entering Richmond Park 
by Robin Hood Gate, and, having made the circuit of the beauti¬ 
ful woodland to Richmond, return thence by way of Putney and 
Fulham, 



Hints for Drives and Excursions. 


171 





The Regent’s Park is a noble pleasure-ground, once one gets 
to it. A good excuse for the drive would be the Botanical 
and Zoological Societies’ Gardens, both of which are charming 
in summer. 

A fine, breezy, picturesque upland is Wimbledon Common. 
No “ swells ” go there in carriages except to garden parties, 
probably because it is so breezy and invigorating, and one 
must be enervated in June to be in the mode. But the drive 
to Wimbledon via Chelsea, Fulham, and Putney, is specially 
worth noting. 

It used to be fashionable to take the road to Greenwich. The 
train is far the better way of going there; and we do not know 
that Greenwich is worth going to at all. Fish dinners at the 
Trafalgar and Ship are “ played out.” The Naval College, 
aforetime Greenwich Hospital, is a noble pile of buildings, 
most imposing when viewed from the river front. The river 


\J2 London of To-Day. 

Thames steamboats are not particularly comfortable craft; but 
the trip from the Temple Pier to Greenwich is certainly worth 
taking. 

Woolwich is the headquarters of the Royal Artillery, with 
barracks for cavalry and infantry, and a large military hospital. 
A pass from the War Department (Pall Mall, London) is neces¬ 
sary in order to view the Arsenal. The friendly offices of an 
artillery officer of the garrison would be of great advantage in 
seeing what is to be seen, including, doubtless, the interior of 
the Mess Room of that regiment, than which a more hospitable 
shelter is not to be found in England. 

Hampstead Heath is called a cockney resort. Then cockneys 
are to be congratulated. We were reading the other day an 
American lady’s opinion of Hampstead, published in a fashionable 
New York journal. The lady (who is a distinguished actress) 
says its attractions to her are so many that she hopes to spend a 
month or six weeks of every year in the neighbourhood. We 
trust she may. She says it is the most delightful suburb of 
London. It certainly was years agone. What it is now, with 
Fitzjohn’s Avenues and other fine ranges of bricks and mortar we 
know not. We loved its rural simplicity, redolent of so many 
pleasant literary memories—of Steele, Pope, Johnson and their 
coterie; and later of Coleridge, Lamb, Leigh Hunt, Shelley and 
Keats. 

Of course everyone goes to Richmond. At one time everyone 
went to the “Star and Garter” as well. And all ladies used 
to eat of those confectionery trifles called “ Maids of Honour.” 
Perhaps the healthiest inducements to visit Richmond are the 
Park and the view from the hill-top. This, “ they say,” is not to 
be matched in England. Perhaps not. Very few hills have 
a river Thames winding at their foot. At all events, the famous 
Hill commands a beautiful landscape on a clear day. To the 
right rise the towers of Windsor Castle and the hills of Bucking¬ 
hamshire ; and in the middle distance may be seen the low- 
lying tracks of Runneymede and Chertsey. To the le£t the 


Hints for Drives and Excursions. 


1/3 


horizon is bounded by the bold outline of the Surrey Downs. 
One may catch sight of the church spire of Harrow-on-the-Hill 
and the steeps of Highgate. Immediately at foot, the placid 
waters of the Thames wind for miles through the welbwooded 
, and picture3que champaign. The whole forms a picture which, 
once seen, is not readily forgotten. 

Richmond may be reached most conveniently from Waterloo 
Station (Loop Line); or a party of four might find more enter¬ 
tainment in hiring an open carriage, and going down by road. 

Visitors to Richmond may be induced to visit the Church for 
the sake of the persons who lie buried there,—Thomson the 
poet of “ The Seasons,” Barbara Hofland and Edmund Kean 
the actor. It may be well to mention that in the vicinity, on the 
left bank ol the Thames, is Twickenham, whose church contains 
some interesting monuments, especially a tablet to the memory 
of Pope. Twickenham has many literary associations, “that 
quiet village by the silver Thames to which Essex, Bacon and 



14 


1 74 


London of To-Day. 

Hyde, by turns, retired from the bustle of Court and the toils 
of active life; and where, at a later period, Pope made love to 
Lady Mary (Wortley Montagu), received the visits of Swift and 
St. John, and indited verse that will never die.” Pope’s villa has 
gone, and of the grotto scarce a trace remains. Horace Walpole 
lived hard by, at Strawberry Hill. 

Kew, not far away, suggests another opportunity for an 
excursion away from the heat and turmoil of the town. There 
are two attractions at Kew—the Botanic Gardens and the 
Pleasure Grounds. Money has been wisely, and lavishly, spent 
upon this beautiful spot. An immense conservatory with accom¬ 
panying flower gardens have been planned; many plant-houses 
have been erected; a museum built; a pinetum planted; and 
the whole is thrown open for the benefit of the public. To fill 
these gardens and conservatories, all the ends of the earth have 
been ransacked for their floral treasures. It is well, by the way, 
to warn the visitor that the Gardens are not open before 12 o’clock, 
except on Bank Holidays; on those days they open at io. A 
pleasant way of reaching Kew is by steamboat from Chelsea Pier, 
which may be reached by omnibus (“ white ”) from Piccadilly, 
or any of the more westward river piers, Westminster, Charing 
Cross, Temple, etc. Trains run from all Metropolitan and 
District Stations, or from Waterloo (Loop Line) Station to Kew. 
The river steamboats, for a city like London, are still far behind 
the age and abominably bad. 

Hampton Court has many attractions not solely associated 
with its famous Palace, amid the memorials of the illustrious 
personages who lived in it. The neighbourhood is replete with 
rural charms, not the least pleasing of which are the walks in 
the Palace gardens and through the far-famed avenue of Bushey 
Park, which adjoins them. Hampton Court is some twenty 
miles from Westminster by the river (the journey this way is 
somewhat tiresome), and fifteen miles by (London and South 
Western) railway. It was the palace of Wolsey (by whom it was 
built), Henry VIII., Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth, Charles I., 



On the Upper Thames. 























*75 


Hints for Drives and Excursions. 

Charles II., James II., William III., Queen Anne and the first 
of the Hanoverian kings. A great mass of picturesque old 
buildings, containing many relics of departed royalty, is set in 
the midst of grounds of which the gardener’s art has made 
a paradise of flowers. When the excursionist is weary of 
wandering through stately halls and ancient chambers, wherein 
are the dusty furniture, the bedsteads, the chairs, the tapestries, 
and the portraits of many princes, he may pass through the 
ancient courtyard into the palace grounds, where the air is 
soft and fragrant, and where there are trees which mayhap had 
reached maturity before the great cardinal who built the palace 
had himself won fame. 

The collection of pictures (scarcely less than a thousand in 
number) will repay a visit to Hampton Court in winter or 
summer; but to know how lovely the surroundings of the quaint 
old palace are, one should visit it on a fair May day, when the 
chestnuts in Bushey Park are in bloom, and their towering 
branches uphold big bouquets of fragrant white and pink flowers. 
London can offer nothing more beautiful than this spot. It 
may be remarked that Hampton Court Palace is one of the very 
few public places in or near London open on Sundays. 

It is a pleasant drive (or walk) hence to Teddington through 
the Park. Twickenham, Teddington, Surbiton, Kingston, Sun- 
bury, and Shepperton, all not far away, afford charming views 
of Thames scenery, and are much frequented in the summer 
months by oarsmen and anglers. Farther away Maidenhead and 
Marlow have great attractions for boating parties. The scenery 
on the upper Thames is lovely. 

Windsor is some distance “ out of town.” The most direct 
way of reaching it is by rail from Waterloo (Loop Line) Station 
of the London and South Western Railway. A four-horse coach, 
starting in most seasons from the White Horse Cellars, Piccadilly, 
about ten, and running to Windsor and Virginia Water, offers an 
attractive, but more expensive, route. Again, another way is 
from Paddington Station of the Great Western Railway. 


176 London of To-Day. 

Along summer’s day may be spent in roaming about Windsor. 
It is as well to say that the State Apartments at the Castle are 
open gratuitously on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and 
Saturdays, from April istto October 31st, between 11 and 4 ; and 



rom November 1st to March 31st, between 11 and 3. Tickets 
and guide-books may be procured at the Lord Chamberlain’s Store 
within the Castle after passing the Chapel. When Her Majesty 
is in residence the State Apartments are closed to the public. 

The State Apartments are sufficiently interesting; but on the 
whole the great attraction of Windsor is St. George’s Chapel, one 
of the most famous of sacred edifices. It is full of historic 
interest, and is a beautiful example of the florid-Gothic style of 
architecture of the days of Edward IV. The interesting archives 
of the Public Record Office, show a patent of Richard II., with 
the date 1390, describing the chapel as falling into ruins, and 
appointing a clerk of the works to superintend its repair. The 
salary of this functionary was to be two shillings a day, and 
the name of the man first appointed to the post was Geoffrey 
Chaucer. 

Entering the choir from the nave, the scene is very striking. 
On either side are the carved stalls of the Knights of the Garter, 
the canopies being sculptured in the most delicate yet fantastic 
Gothic. Above are the silken banners of each knight, with 
mantle, sword, helm, and crest on a pedestal below. At back 


Hints for Drives and Excursions. 

of the altar is a reredos showing some beautiful carving in 
alabaster. The wainscoting about the communion-table is also 
rich in wood-work. Not far from the altar, on the north 
side, is a small gallery, called “ The Queen’s Closet.” It is a 
plainly-furnished apartment, with sofa and chairs upholstered in 
purple velvet. The wainscot and canopy are in the Gothic style, 
painted to imitate Norway oak. The Queen uses it on occasions 
on which she attends service in the chapel. 

The stained-glass windows are splendid examples of art: one 
of these, the west window, fills the entire width of the nave; 
another, over the altar, in the choir, is considered a chef -d’oeuvre , 
and cost some thousands of pounds. The whole of the ceiling 
of the chapel proper is decorated with the arms of many 
Sovereigns and Knights of the Order of the Garter, beautifully 
emblazoned; and all the decorations in the choir and around the 
wainscoting of the altar are in accordance with the same designs. 
The services of the Church of England are read daily in the 
chapel, morning and afternoon. On Sundays certain of the seats 
are free to visitors, and if a person be fond of fine music and 
singing he will hear both in St. George’s Chapel. Many royal 
personages are buried here: Edward IV., Henry VI., Henry VIII., 
Jane Seymour, Charles I., George III., George IV., William IV., 
the Duke of Kent, the Duchess of Gloucester, etc. 

The Albert Chapel, erected by the Queen (on the site of an 
ancient edifice called Wolsey’s Chapel) in memory of the Prince 
Consort, is a magnificent and worthy memorial; as also is the 
Royal Mausoleum at Frogmore, built by the Queen, and which 
contains the remains of the Prince. This is not open to the 
public. 

Windsor Park should be visited, and a drive might be taken 
to Virginia Water. Eton College is in the neighbourhood, about 
half an hour’s walk from the Castle. A ramble from Slough 
Station, near Windsor, will take the visitor to the scene rendered 
memorable by Gray’s “ Elegy.” 

In the opposite direction—south-east of London—the Crystal 


London of To-Day. 

Palace at Sydenham has long been a favourite resort of pleasure- 
seekers, wherein enjoyment may be found adapted to every taste, 
and at a cost within the humblest resources. At all seasons of 
the year the Crystal Palace affords a genial welcome to every 
comer. 

There may be added to the foregoing certain places of fashion¬ 
able resort, not accessible to the public: such as Hurlingham, 
Hurst Park and Oatlands Park within easy reach of London; 
and also the country around Epping Forest, to see which it is 
best to go to Chingford (from Liverpool Street Terminus) and 
thence stroll onward to the Royal Forest Hotel. From that 
pleasant rendezvous, a four-horse coach starts daily in the Spring 
and Summer Seasons for drives in the neighbourhood. 


Some Events of the Season. 


*79 



Chapter XIX. 

SOME EVENTS OF THE SEASON. 


T T is truly curious to contemplate the enthusiasm with which 
one branch of national education is pursued in England; 
that relating, namely, to the Natural History and Training 
of the Race-Horse. The schools in which these subjects 
are taught (it might be more correct to say “crammed”) are 
the most democratic in the whole world; and their pupils 
may be numbered by hundreds of thousands. No question of 
rank, precedence, or intellect governs the election of the 


i8o London of To-Day. 

professors, who are indiscriminately selected from all classes 
of society from lords to lacqueys. More frequently than not, 
the professors are self-elected, and no voice has ever been known 
to be raised in protest. A costermonger has equal chance with 
a duke, and a cabman with an earl. Among Regius Professors 
of this branch of the human Letters, by no means the least 
successful are the most illiterate in the land. 

As in most other schools, the subject taught generally divides 
itself into one or more branches or sub-divisions of such subject 
taught, naturally growing from the parent stem; and it not 
seldom happens that, from one cause or another, aptness or 
dulness, liking or misliking, on the part of the pupils, just as, 
say, in Art, Music, Literature, Science or Commerce, the branch- 
subject is taken-to, studied and mastered with greater readiness 
and proficiency than the subject as a whole. 

So in this matter of the Natural History and Training of 
the Race-Horse, the subject as a whole discovers fewer in¬ 
terested students and certificated graduates, than in its several 
branches or sub-subjects. Of these last, the most popular and 
ardently pursued is Betting—Betting on the running of the Race- 
Horse. The graduates in this particular accomplishment are 
more numerous by many thousands than all other graduates put 
together.* 

The disadvantages, nay more, the evils, arising from this 
enormous and persistent influx of students always towards one 
school has been frequently pointed out by authorities; but 
recently it has greatly occupied public attention in England. 
It has been discovered that Betting is a breach of the Eighth 
and Tenth Commandments and a curse. Not to seem flip¬ 
pant, we discovered that on Hampton Race Course years ago, 
when a gentleman made free with our winnings and bade us 
be d-d. 

For the third time in four years the subject of Betting and 
gambling came before the last Church Congress. The Hon. 
and Rev. E. Carr-Glyn, a well-known London clergyman, related 


Some Events of the Season. 181 

what resolutions had been passed by convocations, synods and 
conferences; though he had to add that nothing practical had 
been done “ to put an end to what is acknowledged to be 
amongst the curses of the age.” Betting and gambling the 
reverend gentleman defined as positive breaches of the Eighth 
and Tenth Commandments. 

The point of his paper most cordially cheered was, that 
betting and gambling are an abuse of Sport. We want a law, 
he says, to make a publication of the “ odds ” illegal; to put 
the bookmaker [Professor, mark you] on the footing of the 
keeper of a gambling table, or at least to make him take out 
a licence ; to place all clubs under the supervision of the police 
(“Athenaeum,” “Senior United Service,” and “Marlborough” 
included, eh, Mr. Carr-Glyn ?); to make betting in public an 
indictable offence ; and to stop such corporations as those of 
Doncaster and Nottingham from setting apart space for betting 
purposes. 

Another speaker, Major Seton Churchill, estimated that there 
are 10,000 professional bookmakers [Regius Professors, and Pro¬ 
fessors, that is] fattening upon the national vice of Betting. 

“With a spontaneous cheer before he opened his mouth” (we 
are told) “the Dean of Rochester w r as, as may be supposed, 
quite in his element on the subject, upon which he hit out right 
and left.” He denied that he had ever advocated sixpenny 
points at whist. Then he vigorously denounced gambling, and 
marvelled how any Christian father or husband could permit 
wife or daughter to join such a company as he (the Dean) had 
seen at Monte Carlo, or how any modest woman could endure 
it. When he heard a painted person at the station saj', “Me 
and the Duchess has won a pot,” he felt profoundly sorry for the 
Duke. Possibly the Duke and Duchess were painted images 
of the real thing. No vice is fraught with such degradations, 
says the Dean. He, however, defended bazaars and their raffles 
because they produce so much money for churches, hospitals 
and schools. Truly, the weakest argument] ever advanced by 


i 82 


London of To-Day. 

Very Reverend Dean, and one well calculated to give him over 
into the hands of his enemies. He had not much faith in the de¬ 
crease of gambling and betting in the middle and lower classes 
until the purifying stream shall percolate from the upper stratum. 

At a recent Rochester Conference, where the same subject had 
been discussed, Mr. Horsley had said, “ My Lord, if you will 
bring this matter personally before the Prince of Wales we shall 
be able to report progress.” This remark being boisterously 
cheered, the Dean went on to add that although not many would 
be so ignorant, impudent and unjust as to ask his Royal Highness 
to retire from the race-course, the Prince might be entreated to 
lead a crusade against gambling and betting. Alas, poor Prince 
of Wales! The Very Reverend speaker did not conclude without 
recommending an appeal to Parliament for a law prohibiting all 
newspapers from publishing, not descriptions of Races, but 
Betting details and the odds. 

Meanwhile, we go on as heretofore. The schools are flourish¬ 
ing and full to overflowing of pupils as ever, the Professors, 
Regius and the rest, no less eloquent and instructive. And 
once more it becomes part of our duty to gossip about Racing 
near London. 

No races near London equal in popular interest those of the 
Epsom Summer Meeting, held at the end of May or the beginning 
of June. Any stranger who has taken part in this great gathering 
of Englishmen need not trouble to journey to another race¬ 
course. He has looked upon the finest in the world with the 
exception of Newmarket, and if he has seen the “Derby” run, 

the remembrance of that scene will last a lifetime. To strict 

% 

amateurs Of the Turf, the Epsom Meeting is a mere national 
unketing. For serious racing they go to Newmarket, Doncaster, 
Kempton and Sandown. The Derby race is not what it was. 
It is no longer, as regards value, the one race of the year which 
it is the main object,of every sportsman to win ; and this being 
the case the strength of the field is declining—a fact which in 
itself helps to diminish the number of spectators. While at 


The Derby. 


183 


Ascot many prizes have an endowment of a thousand pounds (one 
of double that amount), and while at meetings like Manchester 
and Leicester there are prizes worth a clear two thousand to 
the winner, the managers of the Epsom Meeting have endea¬ 
voured to stand upon the old ways so far as the Derby and the 
Oaks are concerned, not a shilling of money being contributed 
by the fund to 

eitherevent. Still, i\ - 

Epsom continues - - — - 

the popular resort 
at present. It is 
so near town that 
the humblest 
sportsman can 
tramp to it, while 
all manner of ram¬ 
shackle wheeled 
vehicles, and the 
most abject speci¬ 
mens of the equine 
race are com¬ 
pelled to “ stay 
the distance.” For 
the million, Epsom 
on the Derby Day 
embodies all that 
need be wanted to make a holiday. Given fine weather and 
prosperous times, and there is none other so fruitful of fun and 
entertainment. A person who may have a decided aversion to 
race-meetings in general, as being associated with a great deal 
of disgusting vice and besotted dissipation, will yet find in that 
of Epsom something to interest if not to entertain him. 

Thousands of people “ go to the Derby ” for the simple 
purpose of seeing the fun of the fair, much as people used to go 
to old Greenwich Fair. They have a curiosity for realizing 








184 London of To-Day. 

a scene of which they have read in books and newspapers, or 
gazed at in pictures, or, perhaps, seen caricatured on the stage. 
The abundant literature which has instructed us year after year 
in the more quaint and suggestive elements of the gathering 
has forced an almost universal enthusiasm and curiosity on 
every class. 



THE GRAND STAND. 


When the day comes round, all England turns out and joins in 
the frolic, the great majority of the holiday-makers caring less, 
perhaps, for the great event of the day than if it had been a race 
of donkeys jockeyed by wooden-legged naval pensioners. The 
real “ Derby ” is very like the “ Derby ” of novelists and journal¬ 
ists. This is the impression made upon a spectator who sees 
the race at Epsom for the first time. On the whole, “ going to the 
Derby ” is an experience worth realizing ; and not one of the least 
stirring emotions developed by it in a new-comer is the famili¬ 
arity of the scene to his mind, and the distinct way in which his 






The Derby—Ascot Races. 185 

imaginary conceptions of it, both personal and borrowed, are 
brought before him in a concrete, visible shape. 

The ways of going down to the Derby (such is the phrase) are 
three : by road, by rail, or on foot. A place on a “ drag ” or on 
an omnibus can generally be had by making up a party before¬ 
hand ; and the cost, with luncheon included, ought not to be more 
than a couple of sovereigns per head. The distance by rail from 
Waterloo Station or Victoria Station is about fifteen miles, and 
the return-fare by “ special trains,” of which many run on the 
race-day—making the journey without stopping—is ys. 6 d. and 
ioj. 6 d. Few persons are vigorous enough to make the journey 
on foot, but if any such should be found, we advise them to begin 
early, about 5 or 6 o’clock a.m., and to take the route by way of 
Clapham Common, Tooting and Merton. 

The “ Oaks Day ” (Friday) usually attracts a more select con¬ 
course of people, including many ladies, to Epsom Downs. 

ASCOT. 

The Ascot race-week, following close upon the Epsom Summer 
Meeting, has many and great attractions for London Society. It 
is the annual festival of the aristocracy, as the “ Derby ” is that 
of the people. Ascot race-course on the Cup day is the rendez¬ 
vous of the more illustrious personages of the English fashionable 
world. The gathering is moreover a royal one—princes and 
princesses, together with their august relatives, being present 
in State. Her Majesty, who before her widowhood followed 
the example of her two immediate predecessors in being present 
at Ascot races, is now represented by the Prince and Princess of 
Wales. The royal party drive on to the course in State carriages, 
preceded by the Master of the Buckhounds and attendant hunts¬ 
men in State uniforms. This little piece of pageantry forms a 
very effective prologue to the proceedings of the principal race- 
days. The Royal Enclosure is filled with elegantly dressed ladies, 
whose chief object would seem to be to rival each other in the 


London of To-Day. 


186 



richness and splendour of their cos¬ 
tumes. The racing at Ascot comes to 
most of them as an opportunity for 
displaying the resources of their ward¬ 
robe. The attendant gentlemen, for the most 
part, are no less elegantly attired in the 
choicest garments of Poole, Whitaker, and other masters 
of the tailor’s craft. The members of the Four-in-Hand 
and Coaching\clubs muster in great force. Their “ drags ” 
are, however, but units in the multitude of greater and lesser 
vehicles which' 1 fringe the course, in most seasons forming an 
unbroken line, at many points three and four deep, for over 
a quarter of a mile. There was a day when there were never 
more than two or three hundred people at Ascot races, when 
the jockeys used to ride in silk stockings and shoes with buckles, 
and when after each race the company used to walk up and down 
the course, as the fashionable folk still do the path skirting Rotten 









Ascot Races. 


18; 

Row. Those were in the quiet days of Ascot, when the royal 
meeting was little more than a family gathering, where everybody 
knew everybody else, and upon which the London mob never 
thought of intruding. 

There is no race-meeting in the Calendar which depends so 
much for its success upon fine weather as Ascot; but if the skies 
are propitious the scene upon the Berkshire heath is one of no 
ordinary brilliancy, and entirely worth the trip from London to 
view it. In point of fact, you have not “ done London ”—fashion¬ 
able London—until you have trod the Lawn at Ascot. Whatever , 
else you accomplish, do not leave Ascot out of your notes of June 
engagements. 

While the social aspect of Ascot, which comes as a convenient 
break in the London Season, has undergone but little change, the 
meeting has gained enormously, we are told, in sporting interest 
of late years. At one time the Gold Cup, the Ascot Stakes, and 
one or two other races alone possessed any real importance, but 
the whole programme for the four days is now so long that the 
great majority of the prizes bring together horses of the highest 
class. 

It is scarce surprising that such should be the case ; as long 
before the introduction of the new races which are made to appear 
so valuable by the simple process of pooling the entrance money 
of the subscribers, the conductors of the Ascot meeting endowed 
the various prizes with sums till then undreamed-of. This policy 
has been continued ever since, and, at the present time, the 
amount of added money given from the funds exceeds fourteen 
thousand pounds. 

There are two ways of reaching Ascot—by the London and 
South Western and the Great Western Railways. The former 
will be found the most convenient. To those who journey by 
the latter, the drive through Windsor Park is a delightful one. 

It is by this route that the great majority of the coaches find their 
way to the course, though some come from the other side of 
Ascot Heath if their owners happen to be staying near for the 

15 


188 


London of To-Day. 

race-week. A few send their coaches to the coufse early in the 
morning from some neighbouring stables, and come from London 
by rail each day ; and there are yet a few who make the journey 
by road. 

GOODWOOD, SANDOWN AND KEMPTON PARK RACES. 

Goodwood, too, should tempt the stranger. This is one of the 
prettiest race-grounds in England, planted in the midst of charm¬ 
ing scenery, -surrounding the country seat of the Duke of Rich- 
, mond. The races are held the last week in July. Chichester 
is the nearest railroad-station, and a cathedral town worth visit¬ 
ing—to be reached easily, it may be iibted, from Victoria Station, 
Pimlico. There are other ways of reaching Goodwood, and the 
latest route opened is by no means the least desirable, for the 
South Western Railway now runs a special tr&in through from 
Waterloo to Midhurst, and from thence there is a branch line to 
Singleton, within two miles of the course. The situation of the 
little town of Midhurst, for ever associated with the respected 
name of Richard Cobden, is very picturesque, but visitors to 
Goodwood by this route do but skirt Midhurst in their short walk 
from one station to the other. The railway from Midhurst to 
Singleton runs through a very pretty country, and the walk or 
drive from Singleton itself is full of beauty for all who can appre¬ 
ciate woodland scenery. This route has the advantage, too, of 
saving one from the crowd, which is always more or less consider¬ 
able—and unpleasant—at Chichester; and there is doubtless a 
great future before it, unless the Goodwood meeting itself is 
destined to die of inanition. This is perhaps taking a very 
pessimist view of things ; but it must be admitted that the sport 
is going from bad to worse, and the attendance at Goodwood of 
late is said, upon the best of authority, to have been the smallest 
known for a quarter of a century. The races at Sandown Park 
(near Esher) are fashionable. The First Summer Meeting takes 
place early in June; the Second Summer Meeting towards the 
middle of July. And Kempton Park races are growing in favour. 


The Four-in-Hand Club. 


189 


MEETS OF THE FOUR-IN-HAND AND COACHING CLUBS. 

A singular ceremony is repeated at intervals during the 
London Season, which may be regarded as one of the most suc¬ 
cessful efforts of the kind yet invented. On a given morning 
(usually in the week before the great Epsom race), shortly after 
noon, some twenty splendid equipages belonging to members 
of the Four-in-Hand or Coaching Clubs muster in Hyde Park. 
These are the representative English driving clubs, founded on 
the lines of an old and exclusive club which used to start 
from Chesterfield House, Mayfair, and drive down to Bedfont. 
The leaders of this club were Lord Chesterfield, Sir Henry 
Peyton, and the Duke of Beaufort. Its members might drive 
down visitors, but could not dine them at the club table. Con¬ 
sequently guests (as eating and drinking play an important part 
in all social gatherings in England) would not come, and the 
pastime subsided into dreariness. To remedy this, the Richmond 
Driving Club was soon started. The Richmond Club members 
invited guests tg their dinner-table, and thus escaped the charge 
of unsociability brought against the old club driving to Bedfont. 
But the Richmond Club died out, and then coaching seemed to 
be on its last legs. Only one coach went oilt of London from 
Hatchett’s; and very few drove four-in-hand even down to the 
races. Then a revival sprang up in the founding of the present 
Four-in-Hand Club, which was originally limited to fifty members, 
who on grand occasions used to turn out some twenty-four teams. 
One reason for this limitation was, that it was difficult to find 
places within convenient distance of London to give dinner or 
luncheon to more than a hundred persons. There was no idea 
of exclusiveness; but as the coaches had to be driven somewhere, 
and to carry guests, the latter had to be entertained. The 
founding of the Coaching Club was the result of this limitation 
of members by the older and more famous club. 

The coaches of these clubs are built on the model of the old 
mail-coaches of fifty years ago, and therefore answer the purpose 


London of To-Day . 




190 


of being useless except for show. Each of them costs perhaps* 
^500, and to each are harnessed four magnificent horses worth at 
least another ^1,000. Upon these wait, two grooms in faultless 
breeches, top-boots and coats, neither of whom stands there 
under f8o to fioo a year. When all are mustered the coaches 
start (with a number of “ swells” seated outside) with becoming 
solemnity, and oftentimes no little difficulty, and make the tour 
of Hyde Park, some perhaps going as far as Hurlingham or the 
Crystal Palace to lunch. One would have thought that this 
absurd and useless “ ceremony ” could have little interest save 
for the distinguished members of the clubs and their friends. 
Yet year after year it attracts thousands of spectators, who are 
massed in the vicinity of the Powder Magazine, Hyde Park and 
at other points upon the line of route. A picture of these parts 
of the Park on a morning of one of the meets would some¬ 
what astonish an earnest-minded foreigner bent on studying the 
manners of the English. A far more sensible affair is the Cart 
Horse Parade in Battersea Park on Whit Monday. 


MILITARY REVIEWS AND SPECTACLES. 

The visitor who has an eye for military spectacles should 
Hot fail to glance at the “ Military Intelligence ” in the London 
daily papers. The War Office authorities seldom give long 
hotice of what is arranged to take place in this way. There are 
occasions on which the troops stationed in London parade in 
review order and go through a few manoeuvres; but these are 
restricted to the day on which the Queen’s birthday (May 24th) is 
kept, and to the annual reviews of the Guards in Hyde Park 
and Household Cavalry at Wormwood Scrubs. On the Queen’s 
birthday (or the day set apart for its official celebration), the 
regiments of Guards, with two or three troops of Household 
Cavalry, march from their respective barracks to the parade- 
ground in rear of the Horse Guards, Whitehall; and there 
(at 10 a.m.), usually in presence of the Prince of Wales and 


Military Reviews . 


191 

other members of the Royal Family, and of the Commander- 
in-Chief and a brilliant staff, the ceremony of “ trooping the 
colours ” is gone through, followed by a “ march past ” and 
general salute. Afterwards the bands of the regiments present 
are massed, and play a selection of music in the courtyard 
of St. James’s Palace (nearest Marlborough House), where, by 
the way, daily at 10.45 guard is mounted and relieved, the band 
playing the while. An inspection of the Guards is ordinarily made 
in Hyde Park during the summer by the Commander-in-Chief, 
in presence of a distinguished company; and almost weekly, in 
May, there are sham fights on a small scale on Wimbledon 
Common, in which artillery, cavalry, and infantry take part. 

But the more important military reviews are only to be seen 
at Aldershot, Woolwich and Chatham; and it is impossible 
to fix, even approximately, the dates when these are held. 
A friendly introduction to an officer on the Headquarters 
staff should prove serviceable in securing early information of 





192 London of To-Day. 

forthcoming military spectacles near London ; but, as a rule, the 
visitor will have to rely on the newspapers, and these are 


seldom in a position to announce such events more than a day 
or two in advance. Aldershot is the great military centre, and 
here reviews on the largest scale take place. At Woolwich 
the most interesting military spectacles are those in which the 
Artillery bear the leading part, this being the headquarters of 
that branch of the service. At Chatham siege operations on an 
extensive scale occasionally take place, this being a large garrison 
and the headquarters of the corps of Royal Engineers. Shoe- 
buryness, at the mouth of the Thames, on the Essex shore, is the 
place where long-range gunnery practice usually goes on, the 
National Artillery Association holding its annual meeting here 
at the end of July. At Woolwich experiments in gunnery are 
made. Canterbury is a cavalry training depot of some note; 
but Aldershot is the only place where cavalry manoeuvres of 
any interest are carried on. The best opportunities of forming 
an opinion of the military spirit of the “ Volunteer ” corps of 
London are those which the Saturday afternoon drills on 
Wimbledon Common afford- There, during May and June, 















Boating on the Thames . 193 

the visitor may make sure of seeing two or more of the “ crack ” 
regiments of volunteers manoeuvring. 

BOATING ON THE THAMES. 

The great aquatic anniversary of the Thames is the Oxford 
and Cambridge Boat-race, held just before Eastertide, too early 
in the year to have much interest for most visitors to London. A 
large proportion of the good people of the town who yearly flock 
to the river-side to see it, care no more about that race than a 
baby in arms for the play his mother watches from the gallery 
of the Surrey Theatre. Fashion, and the continuous advertising 
of the daily practice of the rival crews by the Press, induce many 
to do that which, if left to themselves, they would very probably 
not do. A regatta like that of Henley, Cowes, Ryde, or 
Plymouth, in midsummer weather and amid charming sur¬ 
roundings, is a very pretty and enjoyable sight. Parenthetically, 
we would advise those who may happen to have a day or two 
to spare during a visit to London in August, to take a trip to 
Cowes or Ryde during the regatta-week. Plymouth is out of the 
way; Cowes and Ryde, however, may be more easily reached. 
The matches there arranged between yachts and boats, with 
accompanying festivities, are well worth a railway journey from 
London to see and partake of. But the annual race from Put¬ 
ney to Mortlake between the representative crews of Cambridge 
and Oxford is (barring the usual incidents of a London holiday) 
one of the most uninteresting that can be imagined. At Hammer¬ 
smith, which is accounted a good spot from which to see the 
rowers at their best, the boats are in view for not more than 
three or four minutes. Then all is over, so far as the spectators 
there are concerned. And so at other principal points on the 
river-bank towards Mortlake. The pleasantest part of the race 
is to be seen from the upper end of a well-spread table in a 
lawn-marquee, wherein the representative crews may be said 
to be typified in the numbers of the guests. The “ Boat-race 
Day” is one of considerable rejoicing among residents at Putney, 


194 


London of To-Day. 


Barnes and other places bordering on the river. Breakfasts 
and luncheons, to which many pretty girls dressed “ all in their 
best ” are bidden, and handsome young fellows skilled in those 
little attentions which most delight them,—these are the chief 
inducements towards the Thames on the Oxford and Cambridge 
race-day. For those to whom such inducements, unhappily, do 
not come, it may be mentioned that the starting-point at Putney 
Bridge, near the bridge at Hammersmith, the winning-post at 
Mortlake, are advantageous places for catching a glimpse of the 
crews. By rail to Putney, Barnes or Mortlake, from Waterloo 
Station (London and South Western Railway), suggests the most 
convenient means for reaching either suburb. 


THE RIVER CARNIVAL. 



The period of London’s River Carnival is from May till the 
end of August, when the scenery of the Upper Thames is at its 
best, and the genial weather usually admits of the enjoyments 
of boating. 






Henley Regatta 












The River Carnival. 


195 


The place oi the River Carnival might be said to extend from 
Taplow to Henley; though no inconsiderable section of the 
community who own boats, hire boats, or take an interest in 
boating, find abundant opportunity for engaging in this favourite 
summer recreation of the Londoner, everywhere along the river- 
course from Putney to Oxford. 

We can suggest no pleasanter summer holiday to the readers 
of this book than that they should set apart a day for seeing the 
scenery of the Upper Thames ; and we could hardly suggest a 
more convenient or pleasanter starting-point than Great Marlow. 

Great Marlow is on a branch line of the Great Western 
Railway from Paddington Terminus, about an hour’s journey 
from London. Taplow, Maidenhead, Cookham and Bourne 
End, are equally good points of attraction, and lie on the same 
line of road near to each other. 

Henley is a little more distant (perhaps half-an-hour in point 
of railway time), and is one of the prettiest villages on the 
Upper Thames; well known as the scene of the annual July 
regatta, which has been rightly styled the premier aquatic 
festival of England. 

Four convenient daily trains (8.25 a.m., 11.55 a.m., 1.2 p.m., 
and 1.53 p.m.) leave Paddington for Great Marlow; and five for 
Henley (8 a.m., 9.5 a.m., 10.40 a.m., 1.40 p.m., and 2.30 p.m.). 

In the summer season, Saturdays and Sundays (it is our duty 
to report the fact, let those cavil who will) are the great boating 
days—it is only fair to suppose, because Londoners for the most 
part are too busily occupied with other affairs during the rest of 
the week to find time for river excursions. 

There are two Sunday trains to Great Marlow (at 8.25 a.m. 
and 10 a.m.), and two to Henley (at 9.5 a.m. and 2.30 p.m.). 

Artists, who ever have a keen eye for picturesque scenery, and 
who never fail to pick out the “ prettiest bits ” from Nature’s 
well-filled sketch-book, have time and times again instructed us 
in the attractions of the river Thames. The subject is seldom 
absent from the picture galleries or the illustrated journals ; and 


London oj To-Day. 


196 

the stranger who comes our way will be well pleased if he 
accepts our hint to study it for himself on the spot. It is replete 
with charms for those who love the simple summer beauty of 
rural England—the quaint old fashioned villages ; the well- 
grown meadow lands ; the sweet-smelling clover and the hay; 
the ripe, golden cornfields; the curious old churches and 
comfortable, old-fashioned inns; the picturesque woods and 
trim flower-bedecked lawns ; and pretty summer retreats hidden 
among the trees, whose foliage dips into the limpid gently- 
rolling river, as warm with boats, freighted with prettily-dressed 
women and athletic oarsmen. 

It may interest some who contemplate a river trip to know 
that good roomy Boats—a double-sculling skiff, for example, 
sufficient for four with comfort: two rowing and two being 
rowed—may be hired at, and above, Maidenhead for from six 
shillings to twelve sh-illings per day, according to the period of 
hiring. 

A steam-launch, with due supply of fuel and properly-qualified 
captain, may be hired for about LS P er day. 

A well-found House-boat during the Henley Regatta week 
would be difficult to hire at any price. The average rental 
might be stated at ^10 per week, the hirer finding his own 
servants. 

Cookham Reach is a good place for studying the life and 
luxurious ways of owners of House-boats. Some of these, too 
suggestive of the times of the Mosaic Cosmogony in regard of 
exterior build, are very modern in respect of luxurious interior 
equipment. 

Quarry Wood and Cliveden Wood (the Duke of Westminster’s 
place) should not be lost sight of by the Thames tripper—Great 
Marlow the starting-place. 

HENLEY REGATTA. 

Since the old pageants of Venice, nothing has been produced 
to excel the beauty of the scene at Henley during the Regatta. 





% 


Venetian Gondola at Henley 

















































































































































Henley Regatta. 197 

It is far and away the prettiest festival of the kind London, or 
indeed England, has to offer. Formal aquatic processions on the 
Thames have dwindled to the “Fourth of June” Celebration at 
Eton, for the Lord Mayor’s pageant no longer returns by water 
to the City from Westminster. Athleticism has taken the place 
of antique ceremonial; and we have now at Henley, apart from 
the cause of the gathering, such an assemblage of parti-coloured 
boats, awnings, flowers and flags, not to mention pleasant 
company, as could hardly be matched anywhere. Fine summer 
weather is indispensable to the full enjoyment of the Regatta, for 
then the charming upper reaches of the Thames are seen at their 
best. The visitor who can command the hospitalities of a 
“ house-boat ” is to be congratulated. At the annual season of 
festivity, all the hostelries and available ancillary lodgings of 
the little town are occupied. The only method left of enjoying 
the scene in reasonable comfort is that of having a home on the 
waters, a floating house of one’s own (or a share of one with a 
friend), “ a fluviatile analogue,” as has been said, of the four-in- 
hand at Ascot, and the family landau at “Lord’s” during the 
Universities’ or the Public Schools’ cricket matches. Excite¬ 
ment in the sport going forward is agreeably tempered by straw¬ 
berries and cream, and “cups’’and dainty drinks mingled and 
iced too wisely and too well. From a little country jollification, 
Henley Regatta has, like Ascot Races, been growing to the pro¬ 
portions of a national holiday, though, luckily, the distance from 
London and the absence of a betting-ring, keeps the rougher 
people away. The competition of rival clubs and crews at 
Henley is fiercer than of yore. The absence of the repre¬ 
sentative University crews, which formerly met there, has been 
amply compensated by the presence of the numerous boating- 
clubs which have grown into existence since the Oxford and 
Cambridge crews rowed their first race over the Henley course* 
As watermen’s regattas and rowing matches fell into discredit on 
the Lower Thames, clubs of amateurs increased and multiplied. 
Selected crews of the best of these clubs, from the Oxford and 


igS London of To-Day. 

f , 

Cambridge Colleges and the Public Schools, and occasionally 
from America and France, combine to give a zest to the 
Henley Regatta, by exhibiting their “best form” in the several 
competitions. 


PROCESSION OF BOATS AT ETON. 

Eton “Fourth of June” (to use the time-honoured phrase) 
still remains one of the events of the London Season, more 
interesting perhaps to old Etonians and those who have sons 
at Etonjjthan to less privileged’folk. A former captain of 



Eton College says:—“The Fourth-of-June procession of boats 
was instituted in commemoration of a visit of George III., and is 
held on his birthday. It is the great trysting-day of Eton, when 
her sons gather from far and wide—young and old, great and 
small, no matter who or what, as long as they are old Etonians ; 
that magic bond binding them all together as brothers, and 
levelling, for the time, all distinctions of age or rank.” The 
proceedings on this anniversary begin with the “ speeches,” de¬ 
livered in “Upper School,” in Greek, Latin, French, Italian, 
German and English. These being gone through, and “absence ” 













199 


Procession of Boats at Eton . 

called in the old quadrangle of the college, the principal guests 
go to the Provost’s lodging, where luncheon is served, and where 
one might meet half the Cabinet, a fair sprinkling of the “ Lords,” 
certain of the bench of bishops, a field-marshal or so, a number 
of members of the “ Commons,” and many of the most distin¬ 
guished persons in England. Entertainments on a smaller scale 
are given in the various tutors’ houses for the boys themselves. 
At 3 o’clock there is choral service in the chapel (one of the 
finest collegiate chapels in England) ; and after sisters, mothers 
and cousins have refreshed themselves with tea, a gay sight 
awaits them at “ the Brocas,” a large open meadow down by the 
rivbr, whence starts the procession of boats to Surly Hall, a 
hostelry of that name, on the right bank of the Thames, some 
three and a half miles from the bridge which separates Eton 
from Windsor. It is a queer and picturesque gathering—guards¬ 
men from the neighbouring barracks, boatmen and fishermen, 
young folks from London, with the ordinary admixture of street- 
minstrels, lollipop-vendors, gypsies, fruit-sellers, and policemen 
giving greeting to the boys and the distinguished guests. The 
procession of eight or ten boats is pretty enough, as, headed 
by a quaint, old-fashioned barge rowed by Thames watermen, 
containing the band of the Life Guards, it passes in front of the 
assembled spectators. Military music breaks upon the ear; the 
Windsor bells peal out; there are nods, and waving of handker¬ 
chiefs, from the banks; the silken flags are dipped so as to trail 
along in the water; and there is much cheering and general 
clapping of hands. 

When the boats are returned to “the Brocas,” the last act of 
the day is gone through. A rocket from an island in front of the 
boat-houses announces that the final scene of fireworks is set* 
The townfolk on the bridge, and the great people on the river- 
banks, give the orthodox moan of surprise as the rockets burst 
in the still night into stars of blue, green, crimson and gold; and 
round about and in and out the punts, skiffs, wherries and 
miniature barges, you may see the Eton crews rowing their 

16 


200 


London oj To-Day. 


orthodox “three times” round the eyot in the middle of the 
stream. Then the boats toss their oars, and salute ; the fine old 
bells in the Curfew Tower ring out a merry peal; the Eton 
Arms, with the motto Floreat Etona , are written in letters of 
fire; the boys cheer; the bands play “ God save the Queen; ” 
the last squib splutters in a slow and flickering death; and 
George III.’s birthday has been well and truly kept by the 
descendants of his “young friends” of the Royal College of 
Eton. 


ROYAL THAMES YACHT CLUB RACES. 

About the time that spring begins to lengthen into the longer 
and warmer days of summer, London—or at least that part of it 
which has a good deal of money and no occupation beyond 
pleasure-seeking—is reminded of the yacht-racing season. For 
yachting round the coast, and dawdling pleasantly from regatta to 
regatta in craft constructed with reference to the comfort of those 
on board, it is customary to wait till cricket is on the wane, and 
sportsmen are preparing for moor and stubble ; but yacht-racing 
must be earlier served, and comes in as it were with the flowers* 
The Royal Thames Yacht Club races in May begin a yachting 
season which is not unlikely to prove interesting to all who care 
for one of England’s most national pastimes. It is not unworthy 
of notice that despite the strenuous commercial instincts with 
which they are associated in the minds of foreigners, no people 
in the world have more thoroughly organized amusements than 
Englishmen. Unfortunately, many of their sports are accessible 
only to a limited number of persons, but others, such as cricket, 
fox-hunting, and yachting, afford enjoyment to many more than 
are lucky enough to take part in them. Cricket matches supply 
interest and excitement to thousands who by no means desire 
to face the redoubtable Mr. Spofforth, of Australian fame. In 
similar fashion, yacht-racing, besides providing subject of lively 
comment around the coast, especially in the centres of yacht 


Cricket Matches of the Season. 201 

building, affords a capital pretext for a trip to the sea, with the 
possibility of a pleasant cruise after reaching it. With such 
purpose in view, we call attention to the races of the Royal 
Thames and Royal London Yacht Clubs. The Thames sailing- 
barge match is also an event to be noticed. The journey to 
Erith or Gravesend by river steamboat is an interesting and (in 
summer weather) an agreeable one ; and arrived thus far, it may 
be hoped that the hospitality of some member of the club will 
ensure the visitor, if he be in the humour, a longer trip seaward. 
It may be mentioned that the London daily papers give due 
notice of these races (in May, June and July), and their adver¬ 
tising columns of the means of reaching from London Bridge 
the rendezvous of the yachts. 

CRICKET MATCHES OF THE SEASON. 

Stronger testimony to the popularity of cricket in London 
could scarcely have been afforded than by the interest shown in 
last year’s match between Surrey and Nottinghamshire, at Ken- 
nington Oval. In the course of two days more than thirty-seven 
thousand people paid for> admission to the Surrey Ground ; and 
only the fact that the game was as good as over the second day 
prevented the gathering of another crowd on the third. There 
are no county matches nowadays in which the competition is 
quite so keen as in the meetings of Surrey and Notts, and the 
match we name, though it finished rather tamely in a victory for 
Surrey by seven wickets, produced some superb cricket, such as 
is a sure “draw” from all parts of London. 

“Lord’s” and Kennington Oval are the chief cricket-grounds 
of London. The former lies in the St. John’s Wood district, a 
little north of Baker Street, the latter on the south side of the 
Thames, a short distance from Vauxhall Station of the London 
and South Western Railway. Lord’s is the headquarters of the 
Marylebone Club, the premier cricket-club of England; Ken¬ 
nington Oval of the Surrey Club, which also enjoys considerable 
distinction. From a society standpoint the great cricket-matches 


202 


London oj To-Day. 



of the London Season are those at Lord’s between Oxford and 
Cambridge Universities, generally held the last week in June; 
and between Eton and Harrow School's, falling about the second 
week of July. On each occasion a large crowd of fashionable 
people, including a great many ladies, assembles to watch the 
play. The scene at the Eton and Harrow match is in many ways 
remarkable. 

“North v. South” at Lord’s, “Surrey v. Middlesex” at Ken- 
nington Oval, “ Gentlemen v. Players of England ” either at the 
Oval or Lord’s, the several meetings between the Counties, and 
those in which the Australians take part, are cricket matches of 




















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of the.Royal Military Tournament at the Agricultural Hall, Islington. 






































The National Artillery Association Meeting. 203 

the Season well worth the notice of a visitor who has a fondness 
for sports, or inclination for the entertaining incidents of a 
London gathering. 

THE NATIONAL RIFLE ASSOCIATION MEETING. 

In July 1889 the annual meeting of the National Rifle Asso¬ 
ciation on Wimbledon Common came to an end. 

For eight-and-twenty years that breezy and picturesque up¬ 
land of south-western London had been its summer home, and 
many are the pleasant memories connected with the Volunteer 
Camp there pitched in July, the sojourners in which, drawn from 
all parts of the United Kingdom and Colonies, came to compete 
for the Queen’s gold medal and other prizes offered for the best 
rifle-shooting of the year. 

The site of New W'imbledon is Bisley Common, a pictur¬ 
esque stretch of ground lying next the London and South Western 
railroad (Waterloo Terminus, main line), adjacent to Brook- 
wood. The time occupied in the journey there is an hour. 
Brookwood Station is alike accessible by the Midland, North 
Western, and Great Northern lines, and in these respects is 
more convenient than old Wimbledon by the Putney route. 

Visitors to Bisley might bear in mind that Aldershot and 
Sandhurst (military stations) are not far away, and that Ripley, 
Cobham, Weybridge, Guildford and other picturesque rural 
retreats of Surrey lie within measurable distance. 

THE NATIONAL ARTILLERY ASSOCIATION MEETING. 

This takes place yearly in August at Shoeburyness, at the 
mouth of the Thames northwards. It holds relatively the same 
importance (perhaps more) in Volunteer Artillery organization, 
as the National Rifle Association Meeting in Volunteer Infantry 
annals. The Artillery meeting lasts for a fortnight, and is one 
of downright hard work from beginning to end. 

The place of meeting is best reached from London by railroad 
from Liverpool Street or Fenchurch Street Stations. 


204 


London of To-Day. 


THE ROYAL MILITARY TOURNAMENT, 


This has now come to be regarded as a national enterprise. 
It is probably the most popular military display ever planned, 

and is certainly the most in¬ 
teresting and instructive of 
its kind held in London. The 
period of the Tournament 
is brief, though this year, we 
are glad to announce, it is 
somewhat extended. Before 
the public has well got to 
know it is in progress it is 
over. This is unfortunate, for 
there are many thousands of 
Londoners who have never 
seen it. The exigencies of 
military discipline have of 
course to be considered, but 
these could hardly be very 
seriously interfered with, one 
would think, by placing the 
annual Military Tournament 
on the same footing, as re¬ 
gards the period allotted to 
it, as the annual competitions 
of the Volunteer Artillery and Rifle Corps, at Shoeburyness and 
Wimbledon respectively. But we must take things as they are, 
and be thankful. 

The Royal Military Tournament will commence this year on 
Tuesday, May 26th, and terminate on Saturday, June 6th, 
immediately following the Horse Show at the Royal Agricultural 
Hall, Islington. It is expected that one or more detachments of 
Colonial troops may be able to attend. 

No one who is in London at that time should fail to see it. 




BAYONET FENCING. 



HAILING THE VICTOR. 


Sketches at the Royal Military Tournament, 

















































































































































. 
































' 
















































































































































































) 











205 


Royal Military Tournament. 

The most entertaining display is on the opening day, though 
the daily tournaments have the peculiar merit of increasing 
in popularity as they proceed. Horses and men become more 
expert in the purely spectacular parts, and the personal en¬ 
counters are arranged on a system which ensures, so far as 
possible, the survival of the fittest until the end, so that the 
interest of sightseers is likely to increase rather than to wane. 
Possibly there may be a limit beyond which the repetition of 
athletic feats, skilful horsemanship, and exciting episodes would 
begin to pall upon the most persistent admirer, but that limit 
has not yet been reached. In the exhibitions of swordsmanship 
and similar exercises, there is comparatively little interest taken, 
as the more exciting stages of these combats are reached only 
after preliminary trials, and one cannot go to the Tournament 
every day. No incident rouses the spectators to so much enthu¬ 
siasm as the appearance of the sons and daughters of old soldiers 
and sailors—the two hundred and eighty boys from the Royal 
Naval School at Greenwich and the two hundred children of the 
Royal Caledonian Asylum, who go through “musical” drill and 
dumb-bell exercise with surpassing neatness and the regularity 
of a mechanical motion. 

The Royal Horse and Field Artillery batteries give a brilliant 
display of driving at a trot and gallop, the thundering stride of 
horses and the roll of guns producing a great impression on the 
visitors unaccustomed to suc|i spectacles. Then a blare of 
trumpets heralds the approach of Life Guards, who in all the 
glory of their glittering accoutrements go through the intricate 
evolutions of a musical ride with faultless precision. Riding 
with firm, easy seats, light hands, and stately bearing, these 
stalwart troopers look the perfection of cavalry soldiers. At a 
canter their horses “change feet,” without pause or break, as 
they circle right and left, and keep time to the music like skilful 
dancers in a cotillon. When, having finished, they slowly march 
out of the arena, the applause that follows them is loud and 
long. After this come riding and leaping competitions, for 


20 6 


London of To-Day. 

which gorsed hurdles, timber, a double, an imitation stone wall, 
and a water jump represented by a brook of painted canvas, are 
the obstacles to be negotiated. Then we have a cavalry display 
representing the work of an advanced party sent forward to feel 
for and keep touch of an enemy. Without dismounting, the 
men make their horses lie down and go through a series of 
evolutions in which the results of high training and admirable 
discipline are very apparent. The more exciting scenes are 
brought to a close by a combined display of all arms, in which 
Royal Engineers, Artillery, etc., with mule battery, machine guns, 
Infantry and the Medical Staff Corps, generally take part. 

THE JUNE HORSE SHOW. 

This popular Annual fixture, which has now reached its 
twenty-eighth anniversary, and which increases [in favour year 



by year, both with exhibitors and the Public, is undertaken by 
the Royal Agricultural Hall Company jointly with the English 
Horse Show Society. It is generally held at the Agricultural 
Hall, Islington, about the second week in June, the show usually 
continuing for a week. This year, owing to the Royal Military 








20 7 


Athletic Sports , £/c. 

Tournament being fixed for an earlier date than usual, the Horse 
Show will probably follow, instead of as heretofore precede, that 
popular display. As we are at some disadvantage in respect of 
this Hand-book in having to compile necessary information so 
long in advance of actual events, the visitor interested in the 
Horse Show will do well to keep an eye on the advertising 
columns of the newspapers, when June comes round. 


ATHLETIC SPORTS, ETC. 



The chief places for Athletic sports in London are the 
London Athletic Club Grounds, Stamford Bridge, near to the 
Walham Green Station of the District 
Railway, and the Queen’s Club Grounds 
near West Kensington on the same 
line. The annual meetings of the 
various athletic associations at 
these places are largely attended 
by the public. The athletic sports 
of Oxford and Cam¬ 
bridge, usually held in 
March, and of the Civil 
Service, in June, or 
thereabouts; or the 
periodical meetings of 
the London Athletic 
Club at Stamford Bridge, 
are specially 
interesting. 

There are 
Archery grounds at 
the Crystal Palace, at 
Regent’s Park, and Sandown 
Park. Lawn Tennis may be seen to best advantage, perhaps, on 
the “All-England” grounds at Wimbledon, near the station, in 






208 


London of To-Day. 


the pleasant days of June and July. Rowing may be seen at its 
best in July and August in one of the delightful Saturday-to- 
Monday trips on the Thames above Teddington or Hampton 
Court, or in an excursion from Putney to Richmond on Satur¬ 
day ; or, better still, above Taplow, Maidenhead, Cookham, 
Great Marlow and Henley. Football matches are played during 
the winter months at Kennington Oval, Blackheath, Battersea 
Park and on most of the Commons ; golf chiefly on Wimbledon 
Common and Blackheath. A flourishing club is now in operation 
with its headquarters at the Royal Forest Hotel, Chingford. 
Rifle shooting is practised at Wormwood Scrubs, and many 
other places in the environs of London. 


FAREWELL TO THE SEASON. 

Praed sings :— 

“ Good-night to the Season !—the dances, 

The fillings of hot little rooms, 

The glancings of rapturous glances, 

The fancyings of fancy costumes ; 

The pleasures which fashion makes duties, 

The praisings of fiddles and flutes, 

The luxury of looking at Beauties, 

The tedium of talking to mutes; 

The female diplomatists, planners 
Of matches for Laura and Jane ; 

The ice of her Ladyship’s manners, 

The ice of his Lordship’s champagne.” 

The races at Goodwood mark the end of the Season. Thither 
go the “ Quality ” whose residence for a few brief but busy 
weeks of summer in the capital served to denote that joyous 
period of the year. Goodwood is Ascot over again, with fewer 
“ citizens,” and “ alarms and excursions ” of the London betting 
gang, as in the Shakespearian stage directions. There are 
generally the same horses, the same jockeys, the same sets of 

























‘H * V 




\ 

























































































Farewell to the Season. 


209 


44 swells,” the same smart frocks and bonnets, the same grand 
array of delicacies and drinks. When Goodwood is over, comes 
the season of seaside places. 

To the majority of mankind, the end of the Season is a matter 
of complete indifference. If one is obliged to stay in London (as 
a large number of persons not of the “ Quality ” are compelled 
to do), he finds that the streets are quieter, there are not so 
many men in the club; he can pass Marlborough House, and so 
into Pall-Mall without being arrested by a Crowd of tag-rag and 
bobtail waiting to see the Prince and Princess of Wales. The 
nights are not so noisy, the days are less crowded, “ our hustling 
morrows,” do not hustle each other so rudely, and there is an 
end of the matter. So writes a philosopher in that admirable 
journal of social and political philosophy, the Daily News. 
But to many persons as much outside the pleasures of the 
Season as any philosopher (and much more so than philosophers 
who have made their fame, and are 44 taking their fling ”) : to 
many persons the end of the Season means the end of their 
harvest. The people with the money have gone away. 41 The 
cab-tout feels their absence. He leaves the theatre-doors, and 
prowls about in search of cabs covered with luggage. The 
hansom cabman will soon abate his pride. For months he has 
put intending fares through a catechism—‘Where are they 
going ? ’ ‘ Brixton ; ’ 4 Oh, that won’t suit! ’ and the lordly cab¬ 

man drives on in a neat new pair of gloves. With the close of 
the Season he descends from the perch of pride. Instead of 
superciliously staring at persons who hail him, he hails them. 
He is anxious to be employed, and no longer picks and chooses.” 
Waiters at the restaurants and hotels are less haughty and more 
attentive. One may doff his “ stove-pipe ” or 44 chimney-pot ” 
hat, and take to mouse-coloured felt without incurring the 
reproach of the select. It is even permitted to take a bite of a 
pear in Piccadilly without fearing the 44 cut direct ” of the man 
one would least desire to meet while in the act of sucking the 
luscious juice of a “ Marie Louise” in the aforesaid aristocratic 


210 


London of Jo-Day. 


thoroughfare. In short, the end of the Season brings its 
delights, its festivities, and pastimes; and perhaps the most 
delightful of all three is the knowledge that the “ greatest swell ” 
may now dress as he likes, walk where he likes (even within 
the sacred boundaries of the “ Row ”), eat and drink what, and 
at the time, and how he likes, and even be seen in the pit of the 
theatre, or on the “knifeboard” of an omnibus, without loss of 
caste, or danger of being outlawed. 











Out of Town. 


.. ./X. ~ 




fit 







* 











Out of Town . 


211 


Chapter XX. 

OUT OF TOWN. 

, . A. 



T 7ISITORS to London in the Spring and Summer months, 
* proposing to take occasional trips about England, would 
do wisely to make themselves acquainted with the Tourist and 
Excursion Arrangements of the Railroad Companies. We need 
hardly limit this not altogether unprofitable line of research to 
those of the company by whose road it is proposed to travel. 
Visitors will not find such arrangements stated in full in the 
familiar but intricate “ Bradshaw’s Guide,” nor in the more easily 

1 7 




212 


London of To-Day . 

to be comprehended “ ABC.’’ At the Railway Station from which 
they propose to set out, let them ask for a copy of the Company’s 
own Official Tourist and Excursion Programme, overflowing with 
information as to Long Trips and Short Trips, Daily Excursions 
by Land and Sea, Saturday to Monday, and other possibilities 
for leaving London; and stating the exact cost of return or 
excursion tickets (reduced to a minimum for the Tourist 
Season,), extending generally throughout England from May ist 
to October ist. 



The railways running south of London afford, perhaps, the 
best and cheapest facilities for short trips seaward; those 
running north and west for longer excursipns and tours inland ; 
and that going east for trips to Norfolk and Suffolk, and across 
the North Sea to Holland and Belgium. 

The London and South Eastern, with its convenient central 
London terminus at Charing Cross, will take you through Kent, 
and to some of its pleasantest summer resorts—to Tunbridge 
Wells, for example, or Shorncliffe or Hythe (there is a pleasant 
hotel at Seabrook), Folkestone or Dover; and by a recently 
opened and pretty section of railway (the Elham Valley line) 
to Canterbury. Folkestone is a delightful summer resort; and 
once there (try the Pavilion Hotel, which is very comfortable) 





Out of Town . 


213 


you may make short trips to Boulogne, or along the south-east 
coast-line to Deal, Ramsgate or Margate, for very moderate fares. 

For ys. 6 d. you may make the Channel trip to Boulogne and 
back, and for something less than 305 . a circular trip first-class 
to Boulogne, Calais, Dover, etc. 

The Continental Fast Trains of this company are not to be 
bettered in England for comfort and a convenient rate of speed. 
These, it should be noted, however, do not carry third-class 
passengers. 

Margate, Ramsgate, Deal (all very popular with Londoners 
for Saturday-to-Monday trips) are easy to be reached by this 
line from Charing Cross. 

There is no English railroad company that shows greater 
liberality and foresight in management, and more enterprise in 
providing for the wants of the pleasure-going public, than the 
London, Brighton and South Coast Company. Its Brighton 
main-line passenger traffic has possibly conduced to this, as being 
largely made-up of London visitors to that fashionable and 
popular watering-place. And where fashion and popularity go 
hand in hand, a railway company is bound, as a matter of 
policy, to do its best to maintain a good service of trains to the 
place which fashion and popularity make attractive. 

The Tourist and Excursion Programme of the Brighton Com¬ 
pany, issued annually in May, deserves more general attention 
than it probably receives. The advantages it offers for trips 
inland and seaward are considerable, and illustrate the com¬ 
pany’s liberality. Thus for 85 -. a first-class return ticket may be 
had for a Sunday trip from London to Littlehampton; for the 
Saturday-to-Monday trip it is 15 ^. 6 d»: the distance is about 
eighty miles. The third*clas 3 fares are 3 s. in the one case, and 
Js. 6 d. in the other. 

For 3 ?s. a monthly first-class ticket may be had for the South 
Coast and Isle of Wight tours, offering facilities for visiting 
Hastings, St. Leonard’s, Eastbourne, Brighton, Worthing, Little¬ 
hampton, Bognor, Portsmouth, the Isle of Wight; and almost 


2i4 London of To-day. 



every intermediate coast town and village, comprising nearly 
three hundred miles of some of the most pleasant railway and 
steamboat travel in the United Kingdom. 

There is a Saturday-to-Tuesday train from London to Brighton, 
the return third-class fare being but 5«y. On Saturday, Sunday 
or Monday, one may travel there (by “cheap train”) for 3«y. the 
return journey, or less than a halfpenny per mile. 

By special fast train, London to Brighton, the daily return 
first-class Pullman car ticket is 12 s. 6 d .; the ordinary first-class 

IOi 1 . 

If you are sojourning, let’s say at Eastbourne, and wish tem¬ 
porarily to vary the temperature and position of your iholiday 
resort, you have a choice of two daily trains to Tunbridge Wells, 
for a return first-class fare of 45“. 6 d. 

You may cross to the Continent by Day»Tidal Express from 
Victoria, and pass a month at Dieppe, including about four hours 
of channel passage each way in first-class steamers (a summer 
yachting excursion) for 36.?. the return first-class ticket. 

Look at the L. B. & S. C. Tourist and Excursion programme 
for further hints. Apply 8) Grand Hotel Buildings, Charing Cross. 






Folkestone : On the Pavilion Lawn. 



































































Out of Town. 215 

The London and South Western Railway runs through Surrey, 
Hampshire, Wiltshire, Dorset, Somerset and Devon—six of the 
most charming counties in England. Its London suburban 
traffic extends through the Thames Valley of Middlesex and 
Surrey, and many charming parts of Berkshire—as Egham, 
Virginia Water, Wokingham and Reading. 

The company has many popular seaside resorts and pleasure- 
places on its line; is enterprising and liberal in respect of tourist 
and excursion arrangements ; affords good daily service of trains, 
express and ordinary, both local and main line; is reasonable in 
respect of fares (save at one period of the year, the brief few 
days of Epsom and Ascot Races) and makes endeavour to meet 
the ever-increasing demands of the travelling and holiday-making 
public. 

Of late it has become an enterprising competitor of the London 
and North Western for American passenger traffic. A large and 
increasing number of English and Americans now travel by the 
German Mail Steamships to and from Southampton and New 
York. It has become a fashion to do so. Whether the fashion 
will be fleeting, like all other fashions, remains to be seen. “ They 
say ” (a vague but persuasive phrase) that the North German 
Lloyd’s steamers are among the finest and best-ordered on the 
Atlantic, and provide all manner of alluring baits to Atlantic 
travellers, one of which is a band of musicians, who play daily 
during dinner. We wonder how they play, where they play, 
and to whom they play in a stiff north-west gale in the “ Roaring 
Forties ” ? 

Of seaside resorts on the South Western line, which may be 
recommended to the notice of Londoners and visitors to London, 
as affording uncommon facilities for taking the sea-air, and 
seeing pretty scenery, we should name Bournemouth as the 
chief. 

A direct line now takes Londoners to Bournemouth. By the 
old route passengers continued east and west from Brockenhurst 
to Ringwood, and then turned direct sguth to Christchurch, 


London of To-Day. 


2.l6 



The new section represents |the base of 
the irregular triangle thus formed, pro¬ 
ceeding in a south-westerly direction. 
The new line is between ten and eleven 
miles in length ; and the journey from 
London is made in about a couple of 
hours at a cost of 285“. 6 d. first-class, 
and 21.9. 6 d. second-class, return tickets, 
available from Friday or Saturday to the 
Monday week following. It depebds a 
good deal upon Bournemouth how often 
the journey will be repeated or how long 
the visitors will remain. The statement 
has obtained some currency that this 
yvateripg-place is proud enough of its 
charms to make its patrons pay pretty 
dearly for becoming acquainted with them. 

We may add that one of£the T most- 
charmingly’, located and well r managed pf 


Jt3 A 







217 


Out of Town. 

English hotels is to be found at Bournemouth in the Royal 
Bath Hotel. It is picturesquely placed on the sea-front of the 
east cliff, overlooking attractive pleasure-grounds, and is, in 
all respects, a delightful winter and summer resort. We have 
sojourned here for a brief holiday, and can strongly recommend 
it from personal experience. Bournemouth itself and the neigh¬ 
bourhood of Bournemouth provide never-failing sources of 
enjoyment. The foregoing illustration affords a good view of 
the Bath Hotel and its locale. 

Poole (those who love large lobsters and juicy prawns should 
go to Poole) is worthy of attention, and so are Weymouth, beloved 
of George III., and Swanage, to which places pleasant trips may 
be made by steamboat in the summer season from Bournemouth, 
As to these trips, one must needs go to local authority, to the 
“ Bournemouth Express Steam Packet Company,” and its com¬ 
petitor “ the Bournemouth and Swanage Steam Packet Company,” 
for fuller information. 

It is not necessary to refer here to the London and South 
Western Railway route to Southsea, Portsmouth and the Isle 
of Wight. But Southsea is an attractive place for a day or two. 

Among inland places on this line of railroad we can recom¬ 
mend Guildford, Liphook, Lyndhurst (the New Forest) and 
Winchester (with its fine cathedral and ancient college) as 
pleasant resting-places. Windsor is too much of a show-place, 
too well-known, to call for special remark 

By the London, Chatham and Dover Company’s line you may 
travel Kent in zigzag, or in undeviating course. You may follow 
the road direct to Dover : the coast-line route to Ramsgate ; the 
road indirect to Ashford on the one side, or to Sheerness (the 
officers of the old “Formidable” guardship used to call this 
muddy Thames estuary “ Sheernasty ”) on the other ; and com¬ 
plete your survey of Kent, its cathedral cities, seaside towns, 
pleasure places, gardens and hop-fields, by journeying from 
Dover to Walmer and Deal, the resent terminus, south-egst, of 
the company’s system. 


218 


London of To-Day. 

Herne Bay (commonplace and dreary) ; Birchington (monoto¬ 
nous, but restful); Westgate (aristocratic, and dull); Margate 
(lively, and vulgar); Ramsgate (less lively, and a trifle less vulgar) ; 
Broadstairs (pleasant, and invigorating): all popular summer 
seaside-resorts with Londoners, lie on the London, Chatham and 
Dover line of railroad. You may visit all these places in a 
Friday-to-Monday trip at an outlay of 15s. for a first-class return 
ticket; or of 8 s. for a third. 

To Dover you may journey from London for 22s. 6d. first-class, 

1 js. 6 d. second-class, or lay. 6 d. third-class; return tickets, and 
available Saturday to Monday. 

If you wish to travel farther away, you may buy a return 
ticket from London to Calais, available from Friday to Monday, 
for 34^. 6 d. first-class; 27s. second-class ; or 19.?. 6 d. third-class. 

If, staying at Dover, you have a fancy for the Channel trip, you 
may gratify your inclination at a cost of ys. 6 d. for first-class 
saloon, or $s. 6 d. fore-cabin ticket by the Mail Steamers leaving 
Dover daily at 9.55 a.m. and 12.55 P- m - * returning from Calais 
at 1.30 p.m. and 3.45 p.m. on the same day, or at 1.30 a.m. on 
the following morning. 

There are certain cheap week-day Local Excursions which 
are well worth looking over by any who will be at the trouble of 
buying this Company’s programme (price 2d.) for the month 
of June. Apply at Victoria Station. 

In the summer season the Tourist and Excursion traffic of the 
Midland Company is conducted with great liberality. There are 
no Saturday-to-Monday places on this line; but within a week 
a tourist may see a good deal of the picturesque inland parts of 
England travelling on it. For example : the Derbyshire districts, 
the valley of the Dove, and Matlock, Buxton and the rest of its 
beautiful watering-places. 

American visitors to England, particularly those landing in 
Liverpool from the Atlantic mail steamships, will find it of 
advantage to look through the official Excursion and Tourist 
programme of this Company, to be had at Liverpool (Midland) 


219 


Out of Town. 

Station, or on board the steamer itself, or they may ask for it 
at Queenstown. They will, probably, find themselves several 
shillings in pocket in the end, by mapping out a tour in accord¬ 
ance with its programme ; and we may safely add that of all 
the routes to Edinburgh from London, that of the Midland (the 
Waverley Route) is the most picturesque and enjoyable. The 
service of trains is excellent, and the comfort of passengers is 
well studied. 

The curious traveller, if he have time, should try the Broad 
Gauge route of the Great Western Railway from Paddington to 
Plymouth. For speed, ease of travelling, and spacious accom¬ 
modation, the carriages of this line are not excelled in England. 
Only two or three main-line trains daily travel over the Broad 
Gauge system: if we remember rightly, these are the 11.45 





220 


London of To-Day. 

a.m. (“Flying Dutchman ”), and the i p.m. and 3 p.m. expresses, 
from Paddington, running the first part of the journey, 53^ miles, 
in one hour. 

Certain of the river-side resorts, very popular in the summer 
months among boating men, lie on the Great Western line of road : 
as Taplow, Marlow, Maidenhead, Henley, Windsor and Reading. 

Among other pleasant places on the Great Western system, 
equally suitable for brief excursions from London, we should 
name Leamington, pretty in summer and sufficiently cosy in 
the winter of the year, a convenient centre from which to 
visit Kenilworth, Warwick and Stratford-on-Avon; Bath, one 
of the snuggest of winter cities ; Cheltenham, more fashionable 
in earlier days than now; Gloucester, a curious old cathedral 
city of interest; Malvern, one of the most frequented and 
fashionable health resorts; and last, not least, Oxford, the 
city of colleges and learning. All these may be reached from 
Paddington. 

The Tourist Tickets are generally available to the above 
places for two months at these fares: To Bath, first-class, 
32 s. 6 d.\ second-class, 24s. 6 d.; third-class, 16s. To Leamington, 
first-class, 28^. 3 d.\ second-class,, 21.?. 9 d.\ third-class, 145. 6 d. 
To Malvern, first-class, 38s. 9 d .; second-class, 27s. 6 d .; third-class, 
i8j. ; and it is well to note that the tickets to this last place 
allow of visiting Oxford and Worcester without further charge. 

Friday-to-Tuesday tickets to Malvern are issued at the 
following fares: first-class, 25 s. qd .; second-class, 19s. 6 d; 
third-class, 13^. 

A word of praise is due to the Great Eastern Company 
(Liverpool Street terminus) which of late years has greatly 
improved its passenger accommodation. Its first-class carriages 
on the line to Harwich, the land of the Broads, Yarmouth* 
Lowestoft (all bracing Saturday-to-Monday seaside resorts, 
albeit somewhat more distant from London than the southern 
sea-places) are comfortable, commodious, tastefully upholstered, 
and rendered pleasing to the eye by a number of capital photo- 


Out of Town. 


221 



graphs of bits of scenery and pleasure places on the Company’s 
road. 

The advertised table of accelerated and improved summer 
service of fast and express trains, to popular places on the Great 
Eastern line, will convey an idea of what opportunities are 
within reach, of seeing somewhat of the counties of Suffolk 
and Norfolk. The Company issues fortnightly and Friday-to- 
Tuesday tickets. The fares are reasonable. 

A favourite resort with Londoners on this line is Epping 
Forest. It is a capital place for a summer excursion; or for 
that matter a spring, autumn, or winter excursion. There is a 
comfortable, commodious and well-managed hotel at Chingford 
(the Royal Forest Hotel) which provides all manner of enter¬ 
tainment for visitors. It is picturesquely placed on the borders 
of the forest, and is become a favourite rendezvous in spring of 
riders and pedestrians, in summer of young men and maidens 


222 


London of To-Day. 

who indulge in lawn-tennis, picnicking and other open-air 
pastimes; in autumn and winter of the personnel of one of the 
most prosperous of London Golfing clubs. Lovers of Dickens’s 
literature will find in it a convenient starting-point for the old- 
fashioned land of Barnaby Rudge, which may be said to centre 
at Chigwell. A four-horse coach makes a pleasant daily excur¬ 
sion from the Forest Hotel in that and other directions, and 
brings you back to a well-served dinner. 

Epping Forest is to East what Richmond Park is to West 
London. We have spent many a pleasant day at its well-known 
hotel, which deserves to be better known to West End Londoners. 
They may take our word for it that a drive through Epping Forest 
in early summer is one of the pleasantest, most picturesque 
and invigorating, to be found around London. Chingford is your 
place of destination; the Great Eastern your line of road, 
Liverpool Street your point of departure ; 2 s. 6 d. your first-class 
return fare; and the Forest Hotel your rendezvous. 

The London and North Western railroad (whichds probably 



THE LAWN TENNIS GROUNDS, FOREST HOTEL, CHINGFORD. 










Out of Town. 


223 



the greatest commercial 
line in the kingdom) 
has few short-trip plea¬ 
sure resorts easily ac¬ 
cessible to Londoners, 
though there are many 
quiet rural towns about 
it which promise a pleasant 
holiday. 

As to the Great Northern rail¬ 
road it is the great route to Scotland 
and the North ; and its show-places are 
too remote for Londoners to visit, except 
when going away for the usual annual 
holiday. 

The Great Eastern Railway Company 
yearly in spring issue and distribute at 
their stations a list of farmhouse and country lodgings in Essex, 
Hertfordshire, Cambridgeshire, Suffolk and Norfolk. This is an 
interesting addition to railway literature, besides suggesting 
agreeable holiday associations. It seems to be carefully compiled 
locally; and states the county, name and address of the occupier, 
description of the house, the number of rooms to let, the nearest 
station, how far the lodgings are from it, the distance from 
London, the return fares from London, and the length of time 
for which a return ticket is available. The list contains some 
two hundred houses in which there is accommodation for visitors, 
and offers encouraging remarks as to Boating, Fishing and Driving 
opportunities. 

All the railway companies carefully advertise their own Hotels 
in London and elsewhere. Out of town we have stayed in the 
Midland Hotel at Derby, and can honestly recommend it. The 
Pavilion Hotel at Folkestone has “ something to do with 
the South Eastern Company. It is one of the most comfortable 
and best-conducted hotels in the kingdom. The Midland, Great 





224 


London of To-Day. 


Western, Great Eastern, Great Northern, London and North 
Western, South Western and Brighton Companies have each 
and all hotels under their control. We have observed on the 
South Eastern line that maps of the routes of the railway, with 
the names of the stations, are placed in the carriages, so that he 
who runs by railway may read. A similar plan of the railway 
lines hung up at the stations would be a boon to British holiday 
explorers of their own country. Even if the companies were 
liberal-minded enough to include sketches of their neighbours’ 
lines so as to encourage pedestrians to take those journeys which 
facilitate cross-country walks from one line to another, they would 
not lose by it in the long run. But this, perhaps, is too much 
to hope for from competing companies. We can scarcely fancy 
the South Eastern advertising the Chatham and Dover Routes 
through Kent, or the Chatham and Dover the South Eastern 
way to Folkestone. 


Sunday in London. 


225 


Chapter XXI. 


SUNDAY IN LONDON. 


g EFORE you read this chapter, friend, who hath touched us 
on the arm for a little advice on this matter, buy a little 
book entitled “ The Professor at the Breakfast Table,” and read 



it. Maybe 
when (or 
if) you 
have done 
so, you will 
pass this 
chapter by. 
TheChurch 
of the Galileans 

I 

or the Church 
of Saint Poly¬ 
carp will equally 
meet your case; 
and you have no 
need to seek far 
in London for either 
place of religious wor- 
, p ship. If, on the other hand, 

I" you thrust the “Profes¬ 
sor ” aside (if he permits it 
without a fight), as being too worldly, or too abstruse, or too 
argumentative, or too metaphysical, and want our advice cut and 
dried, and every particle of it too, why, in that case, we are 
bound to serve you. 


18 


226 


London of To-Day. 

Every variety of religious service is within your reach, from 
that of the “Positivists” at Newton Hall, Fetter Lane, to that of 
the Church of England in Westminster Abbey. Within these 
limits, there ranges a choice of one hundred and seventy different 
sects—remember, one hundred and seventy sects, each assured 
of being the right one—whose places of meeting, scattered over 
the Metropolis, are freely open to strangers. 

With respect to the Churches in London, these will be found 
to represent almost every period of ecclesiastical history, and 
every grade of religious opinion—extreme “ ritualistic ; ” “ high ; ” 
moderately “ high ; ” “ broad ; ” and “ low.” The Roman Catholics, 
too, are well represented in every part of London. 

The innumerable Chapels of the Baptists, Wesleyans, Congre- 
gationalists, Presbyterians, and of other denominations, provide 
an unlimited choice to the Nonconformist. 

In addition to these, there are “halls” and rooms where 
assemble those who adopt the “Theistic” or the “Rationalist” 
teaching, or the practice of the “Humanitarians,” and the like, 
all too numerous to be stated here in detail. Lastly, there are 
the mission preacher and the street preacher, whose services are 
conducted in the open air. 

It is of no particular interest how many Churches and Chapels 
there are in London. There is no chance of shirking your 
religious duties for lack of knowing the whereabouts of either; 
and there is an unlimited choice if you are particular in the 
manner and method of your devotion. 

There is the Fashionable Church with a plenty of ecclesiastical 
furniture, pictures, windows, flowers on the altar, and so on, 
and a fine choir (singing “ Gregorians ”), and a professional 
organist. There is the Unfashionable Temporary Church with 
a corrugated iron roof and a harmonium, and a poor curate 
preaching two sermons on Sundays, both original. There is 
the City Church with splendid coloured windows and pulpit 
carvings, and a fine organ, and a well-paid non-resident vicar, 
and no congregation. There is the suburban Church—“ Low ” 


Sunday in London. 


227 


♦ ■' 

on that side, “ High ” on this, “ very Ritualistic" on the other: all 
clamorous after worshippers. There are the Brompton Oratory 
and the pro-Cathedral and St. George’s Cathedral, frequented 
by the devout among Catholics and curious among Protestants. 
There are Mr. Spurgeon’s and Dr. Parker’s, and a long list (see 
Daily News on Saturdays) of Nonconformist Chapels, all 
eager to teach, aid and to save everyone. There is General 
Booth ready to give you a commission if you will in his great 
army, crying after salvation. There are Jewish Synagogues 
which will give you courteous welcome. And there is a meeting¬ 
house that we once attended, presided over by an educated 
gentleman, in which his hearers think it adds to their dignity 
or comfort, or possibly to the respect due to him to keep their 
hats on while he discourses. Lastly, there is the open-air meet¬ 
ing on the common, or in the street, or on any unused plot of 
unsavoury ground, where everyone is bullied and thumped into 
sharing the boisterous theology of the preacher. 

There are, as we have said, Churches in London where 
“ fashionable ” people congregate. We shall gratify no curiosity 
as to where these may be found. And we shall write no sermon 
on the motives which should lead us to church. Modish bonnets 
and gowns, and well-fitting coats, and dramatic proprieties of 
ritual, and the merits of Gregorian and Anglican professors, may 
have an influence with some ; but let these wilfully seek their 
own salvation. 

The Rev. Charles Honeyman still flourishes somewhere in 
Vanity Fair, preaching his “charming” sermons as of yore, and 
attracting “ large and fashionable congregations.” The curiosity 
that attracts visitors to hear him may be most healthily gratified 
by leaving them to search for his chapel themselves. Perchance 
in the doing so, they may happen upon some preacher less 
fashionable, but more earnest and sincere. 

The following list of well-known Churches and Chapels and 
hours of service in London may be useful to those who have 
not read the sermons preached by the Professor at the Breakfast 


228 


London of To-Day . 

Table before the Little Gentleman, Iris, the Divinity Student, 
and others of Boston, U.S.A., and elsewhere. 


PRINCIPAL HOURS OF SERVICE—CHURCH OF ENGLAND. 


St. Paul’s Cathedral . . . 
Westminster Abbey . . . 

Chapel Royal, St. James’s . 


Chapel Royal, Savoy . . . 

Temple Church. 


Lincoln’s Inn Chapel . . . 

Gray’s Inn Chapel .... 
Foundling Chapel .... 
All Saints, Margaret Street, W. 
St. Alban’s, Holborn . . . 

St. Andrew’s, Wells Street . 
St. Margaret’s, Westminster. 
St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields 
St. Mary Magdalene, Mun¬ 
ster Square. 

St. James’s, Piccadilly. . . 
St. James’s, Marylebone . . 


Morn. 10.30; aft. 3.15; eve. 7.0. 

„ 10.0; „ 3.0; „ 7-0- 

(Service in the Nave in the sum¬ 
mer months only.) 

Morn. 10 and 12 ; eve. 5.30. 

(A11 order from Lord Chamber¬ 
lain’s Office is necessary to 
obtain admission to the 12 
o’clock service.) 

Morn. 11.30; aft. 4.0; eve. 7.0. 
„ 11.0; „ 3.0. 

(An order from a “ Bencher,” or 
barrister necessary to obtain a 
seat at the beginning of the 
service.) 


Morn. 

no; 

aft. 3.0. 



It 

11.30. 




ft 

11.0; 

aft. 3.30. 



If 

10.30; 

» 3 -°; 

eve. 7.0. 

ft 

no; 

» 3 -o; 

ft 

7.0. 

ft 

n.15 ; 

» 3 - 30 ; 

ft 

7.0. 

ft 

n.o; 

». 3 -o; 

ft 

7.0. 

ft 

11.0; 

m 3 -o; 

ft 

7.0. 

ft 

n.o; 

» 3 -o ; 

ft 

7.0. 

ft 

n.o; 

1, 3 -o; 

ft 

7.0. 

ft 

n.o; 

ft ** 

ft 

7.0. 




Sunday in London . 


229 


NONCONFORMIST CHURCHES AND CHAPELS. 


Baptist Chapel, Bloomsbury Street, 


w.c. 

Morn. 

11.0; 

eve. 7.0. 

Bedford Chapel, Bloomsbury (Rev. 
Stopford A. Brooke). 

99 

11.0; 

„ 7 - 0 . 

Christ Church, Westminster Bridge 
Road (Rev. Newman Hall) .... 

99 

no; 

„ 6.30. 

City Temple, Holborn Viaduct (Rev. 
Dr. Parker). 

99 

11.0; 

„ 7.0. 

Clapham Common (Rev. J. G. Rogers) 

99 

no; 

„ 7 - 0 . 

Finsbury, South Place (Dr. S. Coit) . 

99 

11.15; 

„ 6.30. 

Great Queen Street (Wesleyan Chapel), 
W.C. 

99 

10.45 ; 

„ 6.30. 

Islington (Union Chapel; Rev. Dr. 
Allon). 

99 

11.0; 

„ 6.30. 

Islington, Colebrooke Row (Presby¬ 
terian) . 

99 

11.0; 

„ 6.30. 

Marylebone, Upper George Street, 
Bryanston Square (Rev. Dr. Donald 
Fraser). 


n*o; 

„ 7.0. 

Metropolitan Tabernacle (Rev. C. H. 
Spurgeon). 

99 

10.45; 

„ 6.30. 

Regent Square, Gray’s Inn Road, W.C. 
(Rev. John McNeill). 

99 

11.0; 

„ 7.0. 

Scottish National Church, Crown Court, 
Russell Street, Covent Garden . . 

99 

n.o; 

„ 6.30. 

Theistic Church, Swallow Street, 
Piccadilly (Rev. Charles Voysey) 

99 

11.0; 

„ 7.0. 

Unitarian Chapel, Little Portland Street 
(Rev. P. H. Wicksteed). 

99 

n.15 ; 

„ 7.0. 

Westminster (Congregational), James 
Street, Buckingham Gate .... 

99 

11.0; 

„ 6.30. 












230 


London of To-Day. 


ROMAN CATHOLIC PLACES OF WORSHIP. 

Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (The Oratory), 
Brompton Road. Morn. 6.30 to 11 ; eve. 3.30 and 7. 

French Chapel, Little George Street, Portman Square. Morn. 
11 ; eve. 3.30. 

Great Ormond Street, 46, Great Ormond Street (near Russell 
Square). Morn. 8.30 and 11.30; eve. 3.30. 

Pro-Cathedral Church of Our Lady of Victories, Newland 
Terrace, Kensington Road. Morn. 8, 9, 10, 11 ; eve. 3 and 7. 

Royal Bavarian Chapel, 12, Warwick Street, Golden Square. 
Morn. 11; eve. 3.30 and 7. 

St. George’s Cathedral, Westminster Bridge Road. Morn. 
6.30. 7-3°, 8.3°, 9.30, and 11 ; eve. 3 and 7. 

St. James’s (Spanish), Spanish Place, Manchester Square. 
Morn. 11 ; eve. 3.30 and 7. 

St. John the Evangelist’s, Duncan Terrace, City Road. Morn. 

7, 8, 9, 10, and n ; eve. 3 and 7. 

St. Mary’s, Cadogan Terrace, Sloane Street. Morn. 7.30, 9, 
10, and 11 ; 3, 7, and 8. 

St. Mary of the Angels, Westmoreland Place, Bayswater. 
Morn. 7, 8, 9, and 11 ; eve. 3.30 and 7. 

St. Mary Moorfields, Blomfield Street, Finsbury. Morn. 7, 

8, 9, 10, and n ; eve. 3 and 7. 

St. Peter’s (Italian), Clerkenwell Road, facing Hatton Garden. 
Morn. 11 ; eve. 4 and 7. Daily, 10 a.m. 


CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC. 

The principal places of worship of this denomination are 
at Gordon Square, near Russell Square; Harrow Road, Pad¬ 
dington ; College Street, Chelsea; and Camberwell New Road. 


Sunday in London. 231 

Hours of service on Sunday, 6 and 10 a.m., 5 and 7 p.m. The 
ritual of these churches is elaborate. 


JEWISH SYNAGOGUES. 

Great Synagogue, St. James’s Place, Aldgate. Services daily, 
7 a.m. and sunset. 

Jewish Synagogue, Great St. Helens, St. Mary Axe, Leadenhall 
Street. Service begins an hour before sunset every Friday. 

Great Central Synagogue, Great Portland Street. Service as 
preceding. 

Office of the United Synagogue, 2, Charlotte Street, Portland 
Place, W. 


SOCIETY OF FRIENDS. 

Friends’ Meeting House, between no and iit, St. Martin’s 
Lane, Charing Cross; and 12, Bishopsgate Street Without, 
E.C. 


THE NEW JERUSALEM, OR SWEDENBORGIAN, CHURCH. 

This persuasion has eight Chapels in London, the principal 
being in Argyle Square, King’s Cross; Palace Gardens Terrace, 
the Mall, Kensington ; and Camden Road, Holloway,—all open at 
11 and 7 on Sundays. 


UNIVERSITY HALL. 

“ University Hall,” Gordon Square, has been inaugurated since 
we last wrote: an institution the origin of which belongs to 
Mrs. Humphry Ward, the talented lady-author of “ Robert 
Elsmere,” a remarkable novel known to most of us. The pro¬ 
moters make no pretence (as has been attributed to them) of 
starting a new religion. The Hall, on the contrary, is to be the 


232 


London of To-Day . 

€ 

home of an educational and social experiment, the aims and work, 
of which will be partly religious and partly social. As to the 
religion to be followed, we are told that this is to be “ the religion 
of Jesus without the supernatural and miraculous garments which 
men have manufactured; no confession of faith will be asked 
from either the residents or those members who assist in the 
outside work.” The rules and regulations are very similar to 
those adopted at Toynbee Hall and other settlements of the kind 
in London. The Rev. Philip Henry Wicksteed, M.A., is the 
First Warden, and the Rev. Henry Gow, B.A., his assistant. 

THE SALVATION ARMY. 

Readers of our book interested in this now-familiar religious 
and benevolent movement of the day, will find its London head¬ 
quarters at Queen Victoria Street, not far from St. Paul’s Railway 
Station. Courteous information is accorded all inquirers by the 
staff daily on duty (See page 164.) 


AFTER CHURCH. 

Thackeray was for 11 allowing a man to have harmless pleasures 
when he had done his worship on Sundays.” Thackeray was 
for conceding this, be it remarked, at a time when, in some 
households, it was deemed a sacrilege to read a newspaper or 
write a letter on Sunday. In this (at that time) courageous 
expression of opinion the great novelist simply inculcated, what 
one would have thought to be, a common-sense view of the way 
Sunday may be spent without harming one’s self or offending 
others. Some of the electors of Oxford city (we are writing 
of nearly thirty years ago) thought otherwise. They hissed 
Mr. Thackeray when he uttered the opinion, and slandered him 
afterwards, so that he had to appeal to them to say whether in 
any of his books there was anything written that “ should not 
be read by anyone’s children, or my own, or by any Christian 


Sunday in London. 


233 


man.” If he had but printed and scattered abroad on a fly-leaf 
the scene in the little bedroom in the Charterhouse, when dear 
old Colonel Newcome, ex-Carthusian, feebly mutters his final 
“ Adsum,” his censors would have slunk away condemned. Even 
in the present day we are very intolerant in this matter of keeping 
Sunday : a good deal of nonsense is written and spoken of what 
should be done and what should not be done on Sunday; but 
fortunately we are a little more liberal-minded now than we 
were thirty years ago. 

As to how Sunday may be most profitably spent after Church 
we must leave to the discretion and inclination of the Reader. 
We can only refer him to previous chapters as to the facilities 
for getting out of London. A breath of fresh air, a walk on the 
breezy downs, or a stroll by the river, is more satisfying to most 
persons than lounging about the streets. 

A subject that exercised the members of the Bench of Bishops 
in Convocation early in the year 1888 was the observance of 
Sunday by the upper and fashionable classes of London society. 
The Bishop of Exeter initiated its discussion by laying on the 
table of the House a petition, asking counsel on the subject, and 
suggesting a protest against Sunday excursion trains, and a 
remonstrance against Sunday amusements generally. 

The petition declared that there had been of late a very marked 
increase in the employment of the afternoon and evening of the 
Lord’s Day by amusements of various kinds in the upper and 
fashionable classes of society. That the “ society ” papers (so- 
called) in particular, and occasionally the daily papers on Monday, 
gave more or less full accounts of entertainments which had 
taken place. “ Those of recent date include formal dinner¬ 
parties, smoking concerts, theatrical and semi-theatrical perform¬ 
ances, comic recitations, and amusing programmes of fun and 
frolic, exhibitions of jugglery, Sunday parades in Hyde Park, 
coach drives of clubs, the drags assembling at Hampton Court, 
Richmond, and other places of resort; the * Sunday up the 
river ; ’ boxing at the Pelican Club, lawn tennis, dances at clubs 


234 


London of To-Day. 


and private houses, exhibitions (once at least) of the Wild West 
Show ; Show Sunday in the Studios of Artists.” 

Some of these, the petitioners said, are novelties in the way of 
Lord’s Day profanation. The long lists of those present at these 
Sunday amusements which are given in the Society papers 
embrace men of eminence in art, science, politics and commerce, 
as well as mere dilettanti , men and women, whose prominence 
is only that of devotion to pleasure. So the petition set forth, 
adding that many of these amusements are public. The presence 
of such persons at them, “ testifies to very loose Sunday habits 
on the part of the rich and great and noble of the land. Such 
abuses of the Lord’s Day evidence an insatiable desire for 
distraction and dissipation, a very low regard for the claims 
of the Word of God, and a determination to put away the 
restraints of religion.” 

The signatories to this petition number 104 persons, “ including 
M.P.’s, clergymen, and others.” If there be four millions of 
people living in London, a balance of 3,999,896 is unaccounted 
for. Allowing, for argument’s sake, the greater proportion of 
these to be men, women, children, of the working-classes, and a 
very small minority “swells,” we have probably, what?—shall 
we say, one million of the middle classes, who know nothing 
of Sunday smoking-concerts, theatrical and semi-theatrical per¬ 
formances, comic recitations, coach drives to Hurlingham and 
the like, but who spend Sunday in quiet reasonable fashion 
at home. 

In these days some latitude of opinion is conceded as to how 
Sunday may be spent. That the majority of Londoners keep to 
their churches, chapels, gardens and homes on that day, anyone 
with half an eye can see for himself, who strolls into any London 
suburb. There is hope for “Modern Babylon” yet. At all 
events, the number of its churches, chapels, clergy, pastors, 
preachers and religious sects ought to do something towards 
saving it from perdition. 

In the days of King George III. and Queen Charlotte, when 


Sunday in London. 


235 


everyone went to church to be bullied and thumped into heaven 
by threats and fears, Sunday parties were much in vogue, not 
only at private houses, but at public rooms. “ Sunday evening,” 
says Fanny Burney, writing of a party at the Thrales’, “we had 
the Bishop (of Peterborough), his lady, and Mr. Murphy; and 
Right Reverend and all were most outrageously merry!' Now 
that we are not driven into heaven, but allowed to find it in our 
own way, our merriment of Sundays is less outrageous, and 
Bishops and their flocks keep quietly to their own palaces and 
homes. 
























* 








































































































THE 


STREETS. 




















































The Streets and Public Buildings. 239 


Chapter XXII. 


THE STREETS AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 


INTRODUCTORY. 


OU only find in Rome what you take thither,” said Goethe. 



In Goethe’s sense you only gather in the streets of 
London what you take into them, what you have heard or read 
about them. 

An hour or two in a library with the works of Cunningham, 
Leigh Hunt, Jesse, or Timbs, is about the best preparation one 
can have for a ramble through the London streets. If the visitor 
looks forward to finding now many of the once familiar vestiges 
of Old London—familiar even to us of to-day—he will be dis¬ 
appointed. It is true we may still point with pride to a few 
splendid monuments of bygone centuries—the “ Minster of 
the West; ” the Hall of William the Red ; the Round of the 
Templars ; and the Tower of William the Norman ; but of 
buildings of lesser fame and out-of-the-way works of interest, 
old houses, old inns, old shops, and the like, the rambler in 
search of the picturesque will find but few remaining. 

To the historical student, of course, the streets of London are 
paved with memories. Dr. Johnson, when he took his walk, 
down Fleet Street, passed from end to end of it as he might 
have paced from end to end of his library. Each side of the 
road was full of suggestions to his well-stored mind, and spoke 
of men and things perhaps unheard-of by the companion of his 
ramble. In like manner may the student of the present—the 
student versed in the rich antiquarian lore of London of the 
past—trace the plan of the Roman city, identify the sites of 
buildings of Norman and Tudor times, and of what were once 


240 


London of To-Day. 


the homes, birthplaces, or graves (since many of the old church¬ 
yards are now made over as gardens to the poor) of those whose 
fame is written in the pages of England’s own eventful story. 
But he must no longer expect to eat his dinner in the Thatched 
Hodse Tavern or Turk’s Head of Johnson’s day, or sit in the 
little room where Marvel refused the bribe of Danby, or stand 
within the railed gallery looking down upon the courtyard of 
the Belle Sauvage Inn. He may be directed to the spots where 
once these stood; but every vestige of the buildings sacred to 
such memories has disappeared under the rapidly destructive 
influences of metropolitan and city improvements. 

One of Lamb’s friends (Godwin) proposed a subscription to 
all well-disposed people, “ to raise a certain sum of money to 
be expended in the care of a cheap monument for the former 
and the future great dead men. The monument to be a white 
cross with a wooden slab at the end telling their names and 
qualifications.” This wooden slab and white cross to be per¬ 
petuated to the end of time ; to survive, as Lamb humorously 
writes, the fall of empires and the destruction of cities, by 
means of a map which in case of an insurrection or any other 
cause by which a city or country may be destroyed, was to be 
carefully preserved. When things got again into their regular 
order, the white-cross-wooden-slab-makers were to go to work 
again and re-establish the wooden slabs in their former places. 
Charles Lamb cuts a joke at the project in his kindly way, and 
tells how his friend wrote a pamphlet of many pages in its 
favour. But if such a map had been drawn—a map on the 
scale of the splendid sheet published by the proprietors of the 
London Graphic , “London, as seen from a Balloon, 1884,”— 
indicating the exact sizes of the various birthplaces, some time 
dwellings, chambers, lodgings, etc., of the great men who once 
flourished in London, what an interesting record we should 
have! We might, for example, have taken in at a glance the 
whole domestic career of Lamb himself, beginning with the 
lodgings at No. 7, Little Queen Street, Holborn, through his 


The Streets and Public Buildings. 241 

several removals — Southampton Buildings, Chancery Lane ; 
Mitre Court, Temple; 4, Inner Temple Lane; 20, Russell Street, 
Covent Garden; to Enfield; and, lastly, to Church Street, 
Edmonton. We might have traced Thackeray through his 
wanderings from street to street, Dickens through his, and all 
the other great writers, whom we love to think about in our 
ramblings over London, through theirs. As it is, we have to 
go to innumerable books for a key to each particular house, and 
even then we may miss it.* 

Like all other cities and towns, the great city had a beginning. 
The original Llyn-din, or Fort of the Lake, a collection of rude 
huts set upon one of two or three knolls, rising out of fens, salt 
estuaries, and tidal swamps, denotes that beginning. This gave 
place to Roman London, of which we may yet trace the plan, and 
show many relics to this day. We have still the Roman mile¬ 
stone, fragments of Roman walls and of Roman houses, and 
the line of Roman streets. In Cripplegate, for example, not far 
from the General Post Office, may yet be seen a splendid speci¬ 
men of the original Roman wall. The Londoner may (or until 
lately could) lave his limbs in a genuine Roman bath of icy 
water, for the trouble of turning a few paces down Strand Lane. 
One of the only two Roman milestones in Britain remains in 
Cannon Street, the other being at Chesterholm in Northumber¬ 
land. There is Roman work about the Tower. Until quite 
recently an old Roman turret was standing within a hundred 
yards of Ludgate Hill Station. These and other remains faintly 
attest the perfection to which our first conquerors brought the 
system of colonization. The visitor may view, in the museum of 
the Guildhall of London, statues, pavements, altars, domestic 
utensils, which have been found in Leadenhall Street, in Lime 
Street, in Lombard Street, in Broad Street—their shapes and their 
colours almost as fresh as when interred. A recent writer (it is 
impossible to give his name, since he appears anonymously in 

* Since this was written Mr. Laurence Hutton’s “ Literary Land¬ 
marks of London ” has been published. 


19 


242 


London of To-Day. 

the columns of a London newspaper),* remarks :—“ It would be 
a curious task, albeit an almost impossible one, to map out 
Roman London as the Rome of the Caesars is mapped out—to 
see the temple of Diana standing hard by what the stone in 
Panyer Alleyf says is the highest ground in the City; 

‘ When you have sought the city round, 

Yet still this is the highest ground; ’ 

—to trace the street which converged at the milestone in Cannon 
Street—the Watling Street £ coming from the south and proceed¬ 
ing again north-west; the Ermine and Stane Streets from the 
south-east; the North Road running to the ancient colonial 
capital; the east road going to Colchester ; to place the pleasant 
villas along the Wall-brook,§ and the Old Bourne ;|| to see the 
great citadel in its entirety, and to follow the sturdy wall with 
its turrets and gates around the city. If, as archaeologists aver, 
the great Roman temple stood where now stands the chief Pro¬ 
testant Cathedral of the world; if the ancient London Forum 
was where is now the Royal Exchange ; if the chief Roman 
cemeteries were on the sites of the Bunhill Fields burying- 
ground and St. Sepulchre’s Church ;^[ if the Roman citadel was 
where now stands the Tower of London—it is sufficient proof 
that posterity has been faithful to the lines laid down by the old 
Roman colonists. The great arteries of London run almost pre¬ 
cisely upon the line of the great Roman arteries; we have still a 
Watling Street and a Stone Street; the Gray’s Inn Road, for¬ 
merly in the North Road, was known before the railway era as 

* Globe , April 5th, 1884. 

f A street leading out of Cannon Street towards St. Paul’s. 

| A narrow thoroughfare between Paternoster Row and Newgate 
Street. A stone built into one of the houses on the east side bears 
the inscription. 

§ Walbrook, a street on the west side of the Mansion House. 

|| Hoi born. 

^| St. Sepulchre’s Church stands at the western end of Newgate 
Street, 


243 


The Streets and Public Buildings. 

Maiden Lane, a name still preserved by the same road in Maiden 
Way, far up into the North ; there is Stratford to the East. So 
there is little reason to doubt that the archaeologists are right in 
their former supposition.” 

From the time of the Roman colony to the era of the Con¬ 
quest, we are able to place the sites of a series of buildings civil 
and ecclesiastical, and have scores of local names which remain 
to this day. That great edifice and memorial of English history, 
the Tower of London, of the beginnings of which Gundulph, 
Bishop of Rochester, builder of the old Norman Keep in his 
episcopal city, is the reputed architect, stands among the fore¬ 
most of London’s Norman buildings. The Abbey of Westminster 
commemorates the church dedicated to St. Peter, built by Sebert 
on the Isle of Thorney; as does St. Paul’s, “the stately and beau¬ 
tiful ” structure described by William of Malmesbury as erected 
in the place of Ethelbert’s first Christian church. The original 
Westminster Hall, the work of William Rufus, which was “only 
a bed-chamber in comparison with the building he intended to 
make,” is yet another memorial of the Norman age. Then we 
have the St. John’s Gate at Clerkenwell; the relics of the priory of 
St. Bartholomew at Smithfield; and the beautiful reproduction 
of the Chapel of St. Stephen’s (which has given a name to the 
House of Commons),—taking us back to Norman times. 

Langbourne, Tyburn, Ludgate, Bishopsgate, Cripplegate, 
Blackfriars, Whitefriars, Cheapside, Eastcheap, St. Martin’s-le- 
Grand, St. Mary-le-Bow, Holywell, Clerkenwell, are among the 
local names of that or of a subsequent period which still re¬ 
main ; and to these others might be added. The Temple 
Church, restored in recent years, kept its original beauty to the 
commencement of the fourteenth century. In the Savoy (still 
retaining its ancient designation) we stand upon the ground 
where once stood the palace of John of Gaunt. The thorough¬ 
fare which borders the Thames from Blackfriars to the Tower, 
and known centuries ago by the name of'Thames Street, marks 
the place where lived Geoffrey Chaucer, “ in the house of his 


244 


London of To-Day. 

father, a vintner.” The Vintry, the district occupied by the 
wine-sellers of the Plantagenet period, still survives in the civic 
“ ward ” of that name. 

Coming to a later period, we find memorials on every hand of 
the prominent personages of English history—Gresham Street, 
commemorating the public-spirited merchant of Tudor days who 
founded the Royal Exchange ; Essex Street, the sometime re¬ 
sidence of Elizabeth’s favourite; Northumberland Street, of 
Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, son of the poet Surrey; 
Rupert Street, taking us back to the period of the Civil War; 
Chandos Street, to Queen Anne’s days and the magnificence of 
Canons; Milton Street, commemorating the poet Milton, and 
so on 

“If,” says Mr. Frederic Harrison, “you omit Dryden, Pope, 
Handel, Addison, Swift, Fielding, Richardson, Johnson, Gold¬ 
smith, Burke, Garrick, Hogarth, Reynolds, Turner, Byron, Lamb, 
Dickens, Thackeray and De Quincey—if you strike out of our 
literature, our history, our law, our art, all that is locally asso¬ 
ciated with definite spots of London, London sights, London 
life, and London monuments—the gap would be huge. The 
features of London are themselves so vast, their local history 
so rich, that they each have a history of their own. No city in 
Europe possesses a river like the Thames, with its leagues of 
historic buildings along its course, its mighty ports, and bridges, 
and docks ; nor have the Rhine or the Tiber a closer association 
with poetry, literature and art. English history and English 
literature abound with memories of the river. Nor has any city 
of Europe so great an array of parks associated as much with 
poetry, literature and art, each with a long history and endless 
traditions of its own.” 

We propose now, the Reader willing, to point out some of the 
traditions of the more noteworthy spots which we shall visit in 
a ramble through London streets. 


“ The Bustling Strand.” 


245 


Chapter XXIII. 

“ THE BUSTLING STRAND.” 

HE Strand, which so greatly delighted Charles Lamb, and 



X which, in a letter to Wordsworth, he described as having 
as many charms for him as had the tinted hills and lakes and 
leaves rustling in the wood for the poet, is still the “ bustling 
Strand.” It is still the great main thoroughfare of London from 
its most central point to the City. From early morning till past 
midnight it is more frequented than any other London street. It 
is the locality of the principal Theatres, the Law Courts, the 
Inland Revenue Departments, of not a few important newspaper 
offices, and many of the best shops. Its historical associations 
are innumerable. Where now the maze of little courts and side 
streets extends to the Thames Embankment, there stood, cen¬ 
turies ago, the town-houses of the bishops, the ambassadors, and 
the powerful nobles. Beautiful gardens surrounded them, and 
against their walls plashed the waters of the then “ silver ” 
Thames. Here was Bedford House, Essex House, Northumber¬ 
land House, the palace of John of Gaunt of the Savoy, and the 
mansion of the Lord High Admiral Seymour, now vanished from 
the places where they stood, and leaving only their names to the 
streets and districts of new London. 

Northumberland House, on the site of which (or near it) now 
stands the Grand Hotel, was the last of all the great mansions 
which lorded it on the river-side. It stood till 1876. It was 
built by Henry Howard, Earl of Northampton, son of the famous 
Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, the poet; but a very unworthy 
son, except in point of ability. “He was one of those men,” 
says Leigh Hunt, “ who, wanting a sense of moral beauty, are in 
every other respect wise in vain, and succeed only to become 


246 London of To-Day. 

despised and unhappy. . . It is thought by the historians that he 
died just in time to save him from the disgraceful consequences 
of the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury.” 

Taking the south side of the Strand from Charing Cross, 
leaving the Grand Hotel—between the entrances of which are 
to be noticed two or three good shops—we find the mansion of 
the earls of Northumberland commemorated in Northumberland 
Street, still one of the older streets of London, where are the 
offices of the Pall Mall Gazette. In Craven Street, a quiet 
street running parallel with it, there are many good lodging- 
houses and private hotels patronized by Americans. Dr. Frank¬ 
lin lived here in 1771 ; a plaque on the front distinguishes the 
house. The Craven Hotel stands upon the site of an inn of very 
ancient date. The Golden Cross, on the opposite side of the 
Strand, was at the beginning of the present century an hotel of 
European reputation. The Charing Cross Railway Station—a 
copy of the ancient cross erected to Queen Eleanor in what was 
once the hamlet of Charing should be noticed in the courtyard— 
is the terminus of the South Eastern Company, the most conve¬ 
nient and, on the whole, the pleasantest route to the Continent. 
The Church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, across the road, built in 
the reign of George I., was years ago one of the “ fashionable ” 
churches of London. Its Corinthian portico fronting on St. 
Martin’s Lane is imposing. Within the church lie buried the 
remains of Nell Gwynne, the “little sprightly, fair-haired woman 
with laughing blue eyes, round but beautiful face, and turned-up 
nose,” who was one of the “ favourites ” of Charles II. Here, 
too, are interred Roubiliac, the sculptor of some fine monuments 
in Westminster Abbey; Farquhar, author of The Beaux' Strata¬ 
gem ; Hunter, the distinguished surgeon; and Robert Boyle, the 
philosopher. This is the parish church of the many hotels in the 
vicinity of Trafalgar Square, and is freely open to strangers most 
week-days, as well as Sundays. Charing Cross Road, running 
north from this point to Oxford Street, has taken the place of 
acres of “ slums ” once standing on its line of route. 



Charing Cross. 















































































































- . . - 




































“ The Bustling Strand” 


24 7 


Villiers Street, on the south side of the Strand, so named after 
the dukes of Buckingham, whose town mansion once stood here, 
leads to the Charing Cross Station of the Underground Railway, 
the Charing Cross Steamboat Pier, and to one of the prettiest of 
the Thames Embankment Gardens. Here one may see a last 
relic of one of the great mansions which stood by the river¬ 
side, in the Water Gate of old York House, “unquestionably the 
most perfect piece of building that does honour to Inigo Jones.” 
Hungerford Market, so late as 1859, stood at the eastern foot 
of the railway bridge. George Street, Villiers Street, Duke 
Street, Buckingham Street (where once lived S. Pepys) all com¬ 
memorate the second Duke of Buckingham, George Villiers, 
who pulled down the famous York House, and built these 
in place of it. 

The streets in the Adelphi—John, Robert, Adam, etc., are 
named after the builders. Garrick lived on the Adelphi Terrace 
in 1771. The rooms of the Society of Arts (open from 10 till 
4, except on Wednesday and Saturday) are in John Street. 
Between Adam Street and George Street, on the other side of 
the Strand, is Bedford Street, the site of an old mansion of the 
earls and dukes of Bedford. Coutts’s Bank is nearly opposite. 
The Adelphi Theatre (twice rebuilt), a few doors east of Bedford 
Street, was at one time the famous home of English melodrama. 
It still shows some preference for that side of dramatic art. The 
Vaudeville Theatre, whose speciality is chiefly comedy, is near 
at hand. On the same side of the Strand, after passing South¬ 
ampton Street (leading to Covent Garden), is Haxell’s Hotel. 
Mr. Haxell has a good and indeed unique collection of theatrical 
portraits in the smoking-room. The famous Savage Club (now 
permanently located on Adelphi Terrace) once had rooms at this 
house, resorted to by literary men, actors and artists. Exeter 
Hall (the headquarters of the Young Men’s Christian Association), 
a building with a narrow but tall and conspicuous frontage, with 
a Greek inscription on the fascia of the pediment, is next the 
hotel. The large hall is chiefly used for public meetings ; it was 


248 London of To-Day. 

erected in 1831, and is capable of accommodating upwards of 
4,000 persons seated. During May many religious and other 
societies hold their annual meetings here. 

On the south side of the Strand, on the site of Cecil and 
Salisbury Streets, presently to be cleared away, stood the 
mansion of Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury, “ the cunning 
son of a wise father.” In Beaufort Buildings once lived Fielding, 
author of “ Tom Jones ; ” and at the corner, near the site of Mr. 
Rimmell’s shop, flourished Mr. Lillie, the perfumer so often named 
in the Tatler . Close at hand is the Savoy, once famous as the 
locality of the palace of the dukes of Lancaster. Here is the 
interesting restored Chapel Royal of the Savoy. It is a small 
building, richly decorated, and is historically remarkable as the 
scene of the Savoy Conference for the revision of the Liturgy at 
the Restoration of Charles II. The Savoy Theatre lies within the 
ancient “ precincts.” 

At the end of Wellington Street is Waterloo Bridge'(opened in 
1817), leading to the terminus of the South Western Railway. 
From the centre of the bridge a good view of Somerset House 
and the principal buildings on both sides of the river may be 
obtained. At night, when the Embankment is lighted up, the 
scene is very impressive. On the north side of the Strand, with 
its chief entrance in Wellington Street, is the Lyceum Theatre, 
where Mr. Henry Irving and his excellent company have obtained 
their greatest successes. The Gaiety Theatre, originally a music- 
hall, built on the site of old Exeter ’Change, is close at hand. 
Somerset House, over the way, occupies part of the site of the 
former palace of the Protector of that name. Here, in the old 
building, Henrietta Maria (consort of Charles I.) and Catherine 
of Braganza (Charles II.’s wife) held their courts. Cromwell’s 
body lay in state here. The present handsome and spacious 
building dates so late as 1776, and was planned by Sir William 
Chambers. It is now the seat of various Government offices— 
Exchequer and Audit, Inland Revenue, Registrar-General, and 
Wills and Probate. In this last office all wills are proved. The 


“ The Bustling Strand .' 1 


249 


calendars may be searched for is. ; the original of a will may be 
seen for is .—the wills of Shakespeare, Newton, Dr. Johnson, 
and of nearly all the great Englishmen of past times, among the 
number. The rooms to the right of the Strand entrance were 
used for the exhibition of the pictures of the Royal Academy in 
the days of West, Fuseli, Reynolds, Opie, Sir Thomas Lawrence, 
and others. Notice the statue of George III., at the north end of 
the quadrangle, and the fine bronze allegorical figure of The 
Thames, the work of John Bacon. 

Next Somerset House are King’s College and Schools, founded 
in 1828 ; one of the most prominent of the great educational 
institutions of London. Near here stood the Turk’s Head Coffee¬ 
house, frequented by Dr. Johnson. The Church of St. Mary-le- 
Strand, opposite the entrance of King’s College, was built by 
Gibbs, the architect of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. In front df 
the spot where the church stands a “ tall May-pole overlooked 
the Strand,” which, in the days when May ushered in a great 
holiday in the streets of London, was decorated with flags and 
garlands. The May-pole was removed in 1718. The Strand 
Theatre, once the most popular play-house for burlesque in 
London, lies not far from the church on the south side ; nearly 
opposite to it is the Opera Comique. 

Between the Strand and Drury Lane and Wych Street (where 
is the New Olympic Theatre) is Holywell Street, so called from 
the former existence of a spring or holy well. This street, which 
is a narrow thoroughfare, is principally inhabited by the sellers 
of cheap and second-hand books and clothes. There has been a 
talk for some years past of taking down the two churches which 
now stand in the Strand roadway, together with the block of old 
buildings which separate Holywell Street from the Strand. This 
would widen the Strand at a very congested spot—that opposite 
the Graphic Office—and would create a fine space in front of the 
Palace of Justice. These alterations made, and the widening 
of Ludgate Hill completed, there would then exist one grand 
thoroughfare from Charing Cross to St. Paul’s. 


250 


London of To-Day . 


In Norfolk Street, at the south-west corner, lived Penn, the 
founder of Pennsylvania; and there also lived and died here Dr. 
Brocklesby, the friend and physician of Dr. Johnson. In Surrey 
Street lived Congreve, the dramatist; and Mrs. Bracegirdle in 
Howard Street, adjoining. The Church of St. Clement Danes 
(which Johnson attended), opposite the Offices of the Graphic 
and Illustrated London News , was built in 1682 by William 
Pearce, from a design of Sir Christopher Wren, on the site of a 
former edifice of the same name, which was said to have been 
called “ Danes,” because in it were buried Harold, a Danish king, 
and others of his nation. The poets Otway and Nat Lee lie 
buried here, and Dr. Brocklesby, above-named. The chimes 
still ring out from St. Clement’s steeple, as Falstaff describes 
having heard them with Justice Shallow. Clement’s Inn, north 
side of the church, still retains its name, but the older part of it 
has been demolished, like everything else old about London. 

Essex Street, on the site of which stood Essex House, and 
Devereux Court, upon the south side of the Strand, formerly 
known as the “ Outer Temple,” were named after Robert 
Devereux, Earl of Essex, the favourite of Queen Elizabeth. Dr. 
Johnson established one of his minor clubs, called “Sam’s,” at 
the Essex Head Tavern. Essex Hall still holds to its ancient 
connection with Unitarianism. The Grecian Coffee-house, in 
Devereux Court, was one of the famous coffee-houses of London 
in the last century. In this court are the premises of one 
of the oldest firms in London—those of the Messrs. Twining, 
tea-dealers and bankers. 

The aspect of the East Strand has been entirely changed of 
late years by the erection of the Royal Courts of Justice. These 
fine buildings, built from designs of the late Sir G. E. Street, 
were opened to the public with great ceremony and by the 
Queen in person in December 1882. Including staircases, 
corridors, halls and rooms, there are 800 apartments in the main 
edifice, and 300 in the eastern building. The contract price for 
erecting them was ^700,000. The land upon which they are built 


“ The Bustling Strand 


251 


cost the country ^1,453,000. It was occupied of late years by 
some of the most wretched tenements in London. It is hardly 
necessary to remind the reader that the Law Courts had pre¬ 
viously been held in Westminster Hall from the days of the early 
English Sovereigns to those of Queen Victoria. The migration of 
the Judges from that ancient building was an event of the highest 
historic interest, for it broke a continuity of 800 years. For all 
that time justice had been dispensed within the precincts of the 
earliest palace of the English kings at Westminster. The old 
Law Courts in Westminster Hall are now gone, and the west 
side where they stood for so many years has been restored. 


252 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XXIV. 

ROUND ABOUT COVENT GARDEN. 

T 3 OW STREET, now best known for its police-court and for 
the theatrical costumiers who make this thoroughfare and 
the streets adjoining their headquarters, was once the Bond 
Street of London. Those were the days when the oldest and 
most honourable of the coffee-houses “ sacred to polite letters,” 

“ Will’s,” stood at the corner of Bow Street and Russell Street. 
The district was at that time fashionable. Macaulay’s description 
of “ Will’s ” has been very often quoted ; it is in its way as classic 
as the classic spot itself: “ Earls in stars and garters, clergymen 
in cassocks and bands, pert Templars, sheepish lads from the 
Universities, translators and index-makers in ragged coats of 
frieze ”—these, among others, comprised its habitues. “ The great 
press was to get near the chair where John Dryden sat. In winter 
that chair was always in the warmest nook by the fire ; in summer 
it stood in the balcony. To bow to him, and to hear his opinion 
of Racine’s last tragedy, or of Bossu’s treatise on epic poetry was 
thought a privilege. A pinch from his snuff-box was an honour 
sufficient to turn the head of a young enthusiast.” 

When about a hundred years later Doctor Johnson, then still 
an obscure man, came to collect materials for the “ Life of Dry- 
den,” there were only two old people living who could remember 
the glory of “Will’s”—Mr. Swinney, successively director of 
Drury Lane and Haymarket Theatres (died 1754) and Colley 
Cibber, comedian and dramatic poet (died 1757). But before 
that time Steele and Addison had made the place once more 
famous, when Button’s Coffee-house took the place of “ Will’s. 
This became Addison’s resort, as “ Will’s ” was that of Dryden. 
“ Button’s,” sacred to the memory of England’s greatest wits and 


Round about Covent Garden. 


253 


essayists, was pulled down in 1865. “ I myself remember to have 
seen it,” writes Mr. Julius Rodenburg.* “ Often have I come into 
this neighbourhood, standing between the two houses in the com¬ 
paratively quiet street, to think of the departed times and men. 
On the right was Covent Garden, whose two piazzas, once highly 
fashionable, the Great and the Little Piazza, built after the designs 
of Inigo Jones, surrounded by red-brick houses with balconies, 
have long ago been changed into the famous market; on the left 
was Drury Lane Theatre, the old street and the theatre blackened 
by smoke and soot, if not by age. In a little side street, Maiden 
Lane, in the time of Queen Anne inhabited by the finest milliners, 
there lived, in the house of the * White Peruke/ Voltaire (1728-30), 
when he was writing his 4 Lettres de Londres sur les Anglais ; ’ 
and before me, over the arches of the Adelphi, rose the terrace on 
which the 4 New Exchange’ bazaar showed its tempting treasures 
in gloves, ribbons, and fine 'essences to the fair world in hoop 
petticoat and peruke. Will’s Coffee-house alone survives ; but 
it is now inhabited by a respectable butcher.” It is needless to 
say that not a vestige of 44 Will’s ” now remains. 

At the house of 44 Mr. Thomas Davies the actor,” then book¬ 
seller, of No. 8, Russell Street, Boswell was introduced to Johnson. 
To 44 The Hummums,” an old-fashioned hotel which occupied the 
south-west corner of the street, Londoners used to go to bathe, 
or “take the warm bath,” as a luxury,” much as they now do 
the Turkish bath. The 44 Hummums” of Johnson’s day was the 
44 Hammam ” of our own. A new 44 Hummums ” hotel has taken 
the place of the older structure, and the old Bedford has gone ; 
in fact, little remains of old Covent Garden and its neighbourhood, 
but the Northern Piazza and the Tavistock Hotel. 

St. Paul’s, Covent Garden, the church facing the market, is the 
burial-place of several actors, and others of more or less fame— 
Butler, the author of 44 Hudibras,” among those of greater. He 
lies in the churchyard, as do Arne, the celebrated musician ; 
Macklin, the famous comedian, who died at the age of 107; and 
* 44 England, from a German Point of View ” (Bentley & Son). 


254 London of To-Day. 

Sir Robert Strange, the “ greatest of engravers.” Sir Peter Lely, 
the painter of the meretricious beauties of the court of Charles II., 
also rests here, with one or two others of lesser note. Henrietta 
Street, now almost completely rebuilt, is said to have been named 
after Charles I.’s queen. In King Street was born young Arne, “ a 
musician against his father’s will, who practised in the garret on 
a muffled spinnet when the family had gone to bed.” “Arne,” 
says Leigh Hunt, “ was the most flowing, Italian-like musician 
of any we have had in England; not capable of the grandeur 
and profound style of Purcell, but more sustained, continuous, 
and seductive. His ‘ Water Parted ’ is a stream of sweetness ; 
his song, ‘When daisies pied’ is truly Shakespearian, full of 
archness and originality.” 

Writing of old English music reminds us that one of the 
most popular and best conducted (during the reign of genial 
“ Paddy Green ”) of the supper-rooms of London, “ Evans’s,” 
where one could hear a good old English glee well sung, while 
smoking a cigar, or, if hungry, partaking of a well-cooked mutton 
chop, stood opposite the church at the north-west corner of 
Covent Garden. Tavistock Street on the south side, parallel 
with Henrietta Street, was once the great emporium of millinery, 
but not one of the older houses once so dear to the “ bucks ” 
remains. Garrick Street is completely new from end to end; on 
its south side is the “ Garrick Club,” the membership of which 
is generally supposed to be restricted to men of letters and 
actors. As a matter of fact, a number of persons who are but 
remotely connected with either profession belong to it. It is one 
of the most popular and comfortable of London clubs. 

Long Acre, so named when it was but a rural highway skirting 
the fields of St. Giles, is now the headquarters of the carriage- 
builders. During the early days of Whig and Tory, when party 
spirit ran high, it was famous for beer-drinking clubs, called 
“mug-houses,” where “gentlemen, lawyers and tradesmen” 
used periodically to meet to sing patriotic songs and discuss the 
political situation. These mug-houses might be said to be the 


Round about Covent Garden , 


255 


fore-runners of the Cogers’Hall, “discussion forum,” and artisan 
clubs, of our day, though hardly, perhaps, conducted with so much 
decorum. “They had a president, who sat in'an armchair some 
steps higher than the rest of the company, to keep the company 
in order. A harp played all the time at the lower end of the 
room, and every now and then one or other of the company rose 
and entertained the rest with a song. . . . There was nothing 
drunk but ale (a considerable improvement on our day) and 
every gentleman had his separate mug, which he chalked on the 
table where he sat, as it was brought in. . . . One was obliged to 
be there by seven to get room, and after ten the company were 
for the most part gone.” 

At the western end of Long Acre runs St. Martin’s Lane, once 
the favourite residence of the artists. Here may be said to have 
originated the Royal Academy. Says Leigh Hunt: * “ Perhaps 
there was not a single artist contemporary with Sir Joshua 
Reynolds who was unconnected with St. Martin’s Lane, either 
as a lodger, student, or visitor.” Wilson and Gainsborough lived 
here; Hogarth and Sir Joshua in Leicester Square adjoining; 
the latter at No. 47, now Puttick & Simpson’s auction rooms; 
Hogarth at the south-east corner, where Archbishop Tenison’s 
Schools now stand. Sir Isaac Newton lived in St. Martin’s 
Street, on the south side of the square; his house was after¬ 
wards occupied by Dr. Burney and his clever daughter, Madame 
d’Arblay, who wrote her most popular novel here. “ The 
Alhambra,” originally the Panopticon of Science and Art (1852), 
whose beautiful fountain, reaching to the many-coloured roof, was 
the delight of our boyhood, subsequently a circus and later a 
theatre, burnt down in 1882, and rebuilt and re-opened in 1883, was 
long the recognized home of the Ballet. The Empire Theatre, over 
the way, has seen vicissitudes, but is now the most popular music- 
hall and place of ballet spectacle in London. On its site once 
stood the town mansion of the Sydneys, earls of Leicester— 
whence the name “ Leicester Square ”—of the family of Sir Philip 
* “The Town ” (Smith, Elder & Co.: 1859). 


20 


256 London of To-Day. 

and Algernon Sydney. Afterwards it became the residence of 
some of the family of “ the Georges.” “ Here George III. passed 
his boyhood,” says Hare,* “ and used to act plays (of which the 
handbills still exist) with his little brothers and sisters. It was 
in front of this house that he was first proclaimed king.” The 
mansion was pillaged in the Lord George Gordon riots, when 
the people tore up the rails of the square and used them as 
weapons. It was afterwards a public exhibition as to its upper 
part, and a dining saloon as to its lower. In the centre of the 
pleasant public garden, for the which the weary pedestrian is 
indebted to the generosity of Mr. Albert Grant, stood, not many 
years ago, “ Wyld’s Great Globe.” It sheltered among other 
things of greater and lesser note a statue of George I., brought 
from what was the magnificent seat of the Duke of Buckingham 
and Chandos at Canons. The last time we saw the statue it 
had been painted in striking colours by some jocose individual 
as a protest against the dilapidated condition of the statue and 
the square generally. Mr. Albert Grant’s gift remedied that 
state of things. Leicester Square has been long the popular 
resort of foreigners of the middle classes ; as the restaurants, big 
and little, good and bad, in the smaller thoroughfares and courts 
leading therefrom sufficiently testify. The region of Soho, at 
the back of Leicester Square, is crowded with lodging-houses 
patronized by foreigners. At No. 43 in Gerrard Street—its 
windows used to look out upon the garden of Leicester House 
—lived (for a time) and died John Dryden. In this street also 
resided Edmund Burke; and here, at the Turk’s Head, was 
founded, in 1764, one of the many clubs of Dr. Johnson, the 
“ Literary Club ”—on the whole, the most famous of them all. 
Originally it met on Monday evenings, afterwards changed to 
Friday. The Literary Club, which met at the Turk’s Head 
till 1783, when the landlord died and the house was shut up, 
still survives in “The Club,”f which now meets periodically 

* Walks in London ” (1878). 

f “ Boswell’s Johnson ” (Napier : 1884). 


Round about Covent Garden. 257 

elsewhere. From the foundation to this time the number of 
members has been one hundred and eighty-four; among whom 
are found—omitting the mention of living members—many 
illustrious historical names Johnson, Goldsmith, Adam Smith, 
Walter Scott, Sydney Smith, among men of letters; Burke, 
C. J. Fox, Sheridan, Windham, Canning, Mackintosh, Brougham, 
Russell, among statesmen ; Gibbon, Hallam, Grote, Macaulay, 
among historians ; Reynolds, Chantry, Lawrence, among artists ; 
Davy, Wollaston, Young, Whewell, among men of science; and 
Copleston, Wilberforce, Milman, Stanley, Tait, among Church¬ 
men. In Cranbourne Street, which runs into Long Acre, lived 
Oliver Cromwell, then “Captain Cromwell, 5 ’ from 1637 to 1643. 
The site of his residence, like many another once famous spot in 
London, is not known, but it is stated that his house stood on 
the south side. 


258 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XXV. 

THROUGH FLEET STREET. 

“P? VERY part of Fleet Street brings to mind some interesting 
memorial of the earlier history of London. That famous 
obstruction, “the Griffin,” marks the place where once stood a 
yet more famous obstacle to the traffic citywards, Temple Bar. 
The citizens were trying to remove it for the best part of a 
century, and now it is gone there are not a few old-fashioned 
people 1 who lament its loss. But the other day we were asked 
if it might be possible to view the stones which composed it. 

The modern history of this the last of the ancient City gates, 
presents some memorable scenes in the history of London. It 
stood the silent witness of many an exciting and auspicious event 
after the Great Fire, the period which marked the removal of its 
predecessor. These include state pageants and Lord Mayors’ 
processions without number ; Mohock and ’prentice raids 
Templar frolics: exhibitions of traitors’ heads; the exciting Temple 
Bar battle for “ Wilkes and Liberty ; ” the rioting of Lord George 
Gordon; the passage of kings, queens, princes, statesmen, 
heroes, philanthropists, ambassadors, judges and thousands of 
less important personages, to partake of the City’s hospitality; 
the funerals of Nelson and Wellington, and the public rejoicings 
associated with many national victories, beginning with those 
of Marlborough, and ending with those of the Crimean War. 
When the houses on old London Bridge were demolished 
Temple Bar became the Traitors’ Gate of London, oA which the 
heads of persons executed for treason were exposed. One Sir 
Thomas Armstrong, Master of the Horse to Charles II., a ring¬ 
leader in the Rye House Plot, was the first whose head was stuck 
on one of the spikes which originally stood over the archway. 


Through Fleet Street. 259 

Child’s Bank, the first house on the south side of the Temple 
Bar memorial—at one time the bank’s muniment room was the 
principal chamber of the Bar itself—was founded something over 
two hundred years ago. The earliest notice relating to the bank 
is an advertisement dated 1661, respecting the loss of a gold 
watch : “ Whoever brings it to the ‘ Marygold ’ (the ancient sign 
of the bank), a goldsmith’s shop without Temple Barre, shall 
receive with hearty thanks.” The goldsmiths anciently kept 
“ the running cashes ” of the citizens. On the site of Child’s 
Bank stood the Devil tavern, the resort of Ben Jonson and the 
wits of his time; while opposite was Sheer, or Shire, Lane (so- 
called because it divided “thecity” from “the shire”), otherwise 
Rogue’s Lane. 

A short distance beyond the bank is Middle Temple Lane, 
and a few doors farther on is the gateway of the Inner Temple, 
one of the so-called Inns of Court. Originally colleges for legal 
study, these Inns of Court are now little more than offices for 
lawyers, or indeed for any one who chooses to hire chambers 
in them. They are not incorporated, and cannot, consequently, 
make by-laws; but, by prescription, their customs have obtained 
the force of laws. A law student, before being called to the 
Bar, has to be entered as a member of one of these inns, to 
attend lectures, to dine a certain number of times in the common 
hall, and to pass an examination at the end of his studentship. 
The Inner and Middle Temple, in the “ liberty,” or district so 
called, are the two senior Inns. These famous abodes of the 
lawyers occupy the ground between Fleet Street and the Thames, 
north to south; and east to west from Whitefriars to Essex 
Street, Strand. A few years ago the rental of this property was 
stated to be ^32,866 per annum, but it is probably very much 
more now, since the rebuilding of a large part of the premises. 
The Temple is a refreshing and delightful resting-place from the 
whirl and confusion of Fleet Street. If the “ Benchers ” permitted 
the citizens the quiet enjoyment of the pleasant gardens (under 
suitable rules and regulations, such as govern the admission to 


2(X) 


London of To-Day. 

other open spaces in the Metropolis), the concession would be a 
precious boon in the summer months to the toil-worn wayfarer. 

The Temple came into the possession of the law students in 
the fifteenth century. Originally it belonged to the Knights 
Templars, some memorials of whom are still to be found in the 
highly interesting Round (built 1185) of the Temple Church, 
which forms the older portion of the present fabric. Under the 
roof of this ancient edifice the solemn ceremonies attendant upon 
the admission of a novice to the holy vows of the Temple were 
in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries performed. It was the 
severe religious exercises, the vigils that were kept up at night in 
this old church, together with the reputed terrors of the peni¬ 
tential cell connected with it, that gave rise to those strange and 
horrible tales of impiety and crime, of magic and sorcery, which 
led to the unjust and terrible execution at the stake of the Grand 
Master and some hundreds of the Knights Templars themselves 
and finally to the suppression and annihilation of their powerful 
Order. The final blow came in 1310, when an examination into 
their conduct took place in St. Dunstan’s Church (the parish 
of St. Dunstan’s still exists in Fleet Street), and the Pope dis¬ 
solved the society ; the last Prior of the great religious house 
dying in the Tower of London. Upon the pavement of the 
Round are the cross-legged effigies of buried Knights, so repre¬ 
sented in token that they had assumed the “ cross,” and taken 
the vow to march to the defence of Christendom. The cloisters 
adjoining the church were built by Sir Christopher Wren, as was 
the Middle Temple Gateway. 

Not far from the altar, in the modern part, is a white marble 
tomb over the remains of the learned Selden, who died in 1654 
“He was,” says Wood (“Athenae”), “a great philologist, anti¬ 
quary, herald, linguist, statesman, and what-not;” and in the 
little vestry beneath the organ gallery is a marble tablet to Oliver 
Goldsmith, buried at the east end of the choir, April 9th, 1774. 
His tomb, with the inscription “ Here lies Oliver Goldsmith,” is 
without the church on the north side. There are memorials in the 


26i 


Through Fleet Street. 

church erected to Plowden, the jurist; to Howell, writer of 
the “ Familiar Letters ; ” to Edmund Gibbon, an ancestor of the 
historian ; to Lord Chancellor Thurlow ; and to other eminent 
English lawyers. There is also, on the south wall, a tablet to 
Ann Littleton, 1623, daughter-in-law to Sir Edward Littleton, 
with the following^quaint'epitaph :— 

“ Keep well this pawn, thou marble chest J 
Till it be called for, let it rest; 

For, while the jewel here is set, 

The grave is but a cabinet.” 

Middle Temple Hall, half-way down Middle Temple Lane, was 
built in 1572, and there is a tradition that here Shakespeare’s 
Twelfth Night was first played. The interior is well worth 
seeing. The Inner Temple Hall is modern, as is also the Middle 
Temple Library. The list of illustrious personages, lawyers, 
and men of letters who at one time or other have occupied 
chambers in the Temple would fill a book : among their number, 
Bacon, Clarendon, Raleigh, Selden, Blackstone, Somers, Mans¬ 
field, Beaumont, Wycherley, Congreve, Rowe, Fielding, Burke, 
Goldsmith, Johnson and Lamb. Goldsmith died on the second 
floor of 2, Brick Court, April 4th, 1744. Johnson’s chambers 
when he lived in the Temple, were on the first floor of No. I, 
Middle Temple Lane. 

Between the Temple Gates in Fleet Street at one time lived 
Bernard Lintot, who was in no better esteem with authors than 
the other great bookseller of those times, Jacob Tonson. There 
is an anecdote of Dr. Young’s addressing a letter, intended for 
some other person, to Lintot, which began thus; “That Lintot 
is so great a scoundrel,” etc., etc. The Cock Tavern, stood for 
more than two centuries opposite Middle Temple Lane, on the 
site now occupied by the branch bank of the Bank of England. 
Once a popular resort of the students of the law; it has been 
immortalized by Tennyson in the lines beginning, “ O, plump 
head-waiter at the Cock, to which I most resort!” The cock of 


262 


London of To-Day. 

gilt, proudly perched upon a bottle, which served as the sign, 
has gone along with the tavern. Chancery Lane, anciently 
called Chancellor’s Lane, the great legal thoroughfare of London, 
leads to the Public Record Office and Lincoln’s Inn, in the 
erection of the garden wall of which worked Ben Jonson, the 
poet, as a bricklayer, “having a trowel in his hand and a book in 
his pocket.” To the west, till the reign of the Stuarts, fields 
extended to St. Giles’s and Tyburn, and on the east was the 
garden of the Rolls. The Chapel of the Rolls lies within the 
gateway to the right, a short distance Up “the Lane.” 

No. 120, Fleet Street, is said to be the site of Izaak Walton’s 
old shop from 1627-34. Cardinal Wolsey resided “ over against 
the Rolls.” Clifford’s Inn, an ancient Inn of Court, lies in the 
rear of St. Dunstan’s Church. The house No. 17, a hairdresser’s 
shop (next Inner Temple Gate), one of the oldest in the street, 
is stated to have been “ formerly a palace of Henry VIII. and 
Cardinal Wolsey,” but without any authority for the statement. 
No. 19, close by, is the banking-house of Messrs. Gosling; the 
“Three Squirrels” over the entrance is the sign under which 
the firm traded in the year 1650. The house of Messrs. Hoare, 
the bankers, on the same side, a few doors east, occupies the site 
of several buildings (34 to 39), including the famous old Mitre 
Tavern, at which Johnson, Goldsmith and their friends used to 
sup. Between Chancery Lane and the Church of St. Dunstan- 
in-the-West (Crown Buildings) is the well-known banking 
house of Messrs. Praed & Co. St. Dunstan’s Church stands 
on the site of an older edifice dedicated to the same patron 
saint, and dating from the thirteenth century. The present 
building was erected in 1831. The registers of this church 
are extremely curious, says Mr. T. C. Noble in his entertaining 
accounts of this district,* having been handed down in unbroken 
sequence from Elizabeth’s reign. Fetter Lane, on the same side 
of the way, is said at one time to have had the honour of 
Dryden’s presence. Johnson also lived here for & time. In 
* 11 Memorials of Temple Bar ” (T. C. Noble : 1863). 


Through Fleet Street. 263 

Fleur-de-Lis Court the infamous “ Mother Brownrigg ” used to 
starve and torture her apprentices. She was executed at Tyburn, 
1767. At No. 32 in the lane, is the Moravian Chapel, originally 
one of the eight conventicles where divine worship was permitted. 
Here, 1662, Richard Baxter preached, and was lecturer till 1682; 
and here Wesley and Whitefield preached before the founding 
of the “ cradle of Methodism ” in Moorfields. 

Going back into Fleet Street, a little to the left, is Crane 
Court, where resided Dr. Nicholas Barbone, promoter of the 
Phoenix Fire Office, son of the extraordinary personage Praise- 
God Barebone. His house was rebuilt by Wren, and ultimately 
(1710) came into possession of the Royal Society ; and here the 
Society remained for seventy-two years. In Red Lion Court, a 
few doors farther east, was the press of Nichols & Sons, who 
for some years (1779-81 and 1792-1820) printed the old Gentle - 
man's Magazine. Dr. Johnson, who is so intimately connected 
with the history of Fleet Street, lived, successively, in Fetter 
Lane, Boswell Court, Gough Square, in Inner Temple Lane, 
Johnson’s Court, and finally, and for the longest period, in Bolt 
Court (No. 8), where he died. Bolt Court is opposite the 
Daily News advertising office. In Gough Square (No. 17), 
lying in the rear of this and Johnson’s Court (by the way, this 
particular locality is not named after the great lexicographer), 
he (1747-58) compiled the largest portion of his Dictionary. At 
No. 6, Wine Office Court, Oliver Goldsmith finished his charming 
“ Vicar of Wakefield.” The old Cheshire Cheese Tavern in 
this court once enjoyed more than a mere local reputation. 
Like all the other old taverns of London, it has seen its best 
days. 

Passing down Bouverie Street, on the south side of Fleet 
Street, we enter upon the district of Whitefriars, so called from 
a Carmelite convent which originally stood here. Before the 
Reformation Whitefriars had been a sanctuary for criminals, and 
till the reign of William III. it still gave protection to debtors, 
and took the cant name of “ Alsatia.” Insolvents thronged the 


264 London of To-Day. 

houses from cellar to garret, and knaves and libertines found 
shelter here with women as abandoned as themselves. Soon 
cheats, forgers and highwaymen, and worse, found within the 
“ precincts ” a refuge; and once within them, no peace officer 
dare follow. At a cry of “ Rescue!” all the available residents 
turned out in a body, and while the orders of the Lord Mayor 
were laughed at, those of the Lord Chief Justice could only be 
executed with the help of a company of His Majesty’s Guards. 
The “privileges” of “ Alsatia” were abolished by special Act in 
1697. A little lower down, on the right side of Fleet Street 
(from the Strand), is St. Bride’s Church, in the vicinity of which 
lived Milton “ at the time that he undertook the education of his 
sister’s children,” and at the west end of which lies buried 
Richard Lovelace, author of the beautiful ballad that contains 
the well-known lines— 

“ Stone walls do not a prison make, 

Nor iron bars a cage, 

Minds innocent and quiet take 
That for a hermitage.” 

In Salisbury Square, close at hand, then, with its approaches 
called Salisbury Court, lived Samuel Richardson, printer, pub¬ 
lisher, and novelist. Probably a good part of his works were 
composed there, as well as at Fulham, where he subsequently 
resided, for his pen was never out of his hand. He was a friend 
of Dr. Johnson and other well-known literary personages of his 
time. 

Shoe Lane, on the opposite side of the main thoroughfare, 
now one of the labyrinths of the newspaper world, leading to 
Farringdon Market and Holborn, was in Pepys’ time noted for 
its cock-pit. Earlier still, the town mansion of the Bishops 
of Bangor gave respectability to the locality. A portion of the 
garden, with its lime-trees and rookeries, existed till 1759. 

It is hardly necessary to tell the reader that the Fleet Street 
of to-day is best known as the place of publication of the most 


Through Fleet Street. 265 

important English newspapers—the Daily News , Daily Tele¬ 
graph, the Standard (in Shoe Lane), the Daily Chro?iicle, etc., 
etc., boasting of being “the largest daily,” “the oldest'Liberal,” 
“ the cheapest local,” and, what is more, of having the largest 
circulations in the world. The offices of these newspapers, whose 
enterprise, liberality and independence have secured them world¬ 
wide reputation, are to be found on either side of this interest¬ 
ing and still famous thoroughfare; with the exception of those 
of the Daily News , which are in Bouverie Street, and of the 
Standard in Saint Bride Street. 


266 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XXVI. 


LUDGATE CIRCUS TO ST. PAUL’S. 
TANDING at that corner of Ludgate Circus which [is 



occupied by the offices of the founders and organizers 
of tourists’ excursions, Messrs. Cook & Son, we have Ludgate 
Hill facing us ; New Bridge Street, leading to Blackfriars Bridge, 
on our right; and Farringdon Street, leading to Holborn Viaduct, 
on our left. Opposite, a little to the right, is the Ludgate Hill 
Station of the London, Chatham and Dover Railway. If the 
visitor be in the mood, he may here take the train for the 
Crystal Palace, or any of the pleasant places in the vicinity, or 
even farther afield—to Bromley, Sevenoaks, Rochester, etc. 
Blackfriars, marking the site of an ancient monastery of the 
Dominicans (of which, it is needless to say, not a vestige re¬ 
mains, or, indeed, of any other old part of this ancient highway), 
was in Elizabeth’s reign the Court end of the City. In Play¬ 
house Yard, at the back of the railway station, stood the famous 
theatre in Blackfriars where Shakespeare’s, Ben Jonson’s, and 
Beaumont and Fletcher’s plays were (in many instances) first 
performed. Here and in Printing-house Square are the offices 
of the Tunes newspaper. The curious in such matters may, we 
believe, see the work of printing the early edition by making 
application, by letter, to the publisher. But the Times , wealthy 
as it is, cannot boast the circulation, nor, indeed, the political 
prominence, of its cheaper contemporaries, though it is still the 
fashion to yield it place at the head of the London Press. The 
printing of the Daily News , Daily Telegraph , or Standard 
would be equally interesting, from the point of numbers printed, 


Ludgate Circus to St, Paul's. 267 

to anyone who cared to stay up till 4 o’clock in the morning to 
witness the process. 

In Bridge Street, opposite the railway station, stood the 
ancient palace of Bridewell, occupied, from time to time, by 
several of the earlier English sovereigns—Plantagenet, Lancaster, 
York and Tudor; and afterwards constituted one of the so* 
called royal hospitals of London by Edward VI. Of these, 

“ Christ’s ” and “Bartholomew’s” are the oldest present repre¬ 
sentatives. Belle Sauvage Yard, on the left side of Ludgate 
Hill, passing under the railway bridge, now occupied by the 
extensive printing and publishing company of Cassell, Limited, 
was the courtyard of the old Belle Sauvage Inn. Leigh Hunt 
says it was one of the inns at which the famous Tarlton used to 
act, in the days when comedy and tragedy were performed in 
the yards of carriers’ inns. In the galleries which formerly were 
built round the inn-yard the wealthier spectators used to sit, the 
servants and others on rude forms or benches, placed on the 
ground fronting the temporary stage. 

Sir Thomas Wyatt’s insurrection against Queen Mary was 
stopped at this spot, where once stood the old Lud-gate. A short 
distance farther up the hill, to the left, is the thoroughfare 
called the Old Bailey, where is Newgate prison, and adjoining it 
the chief criminal court of the Metropolis. Newgate is a gloomy- 
looking, ancient building, It is the beau ideal of prison archi¬ 
tecture, gloomy, massive and cold. Newgate has gone down in 
the world, and but for its convenience as a prison next the 
Central Criminal Court would probably have long since been 
demolished. Its days are supposed to be numbered. The 
names of Sidney Smith, a late governor, and the Rev. Lloyd 
Jones, long time “ ordinary,” are the pleasantest memories 
connected with the later history of old Newgate. In its early 
days it was devoted to the reception of persons of rank ; it has 
since submitted to the principle of legal equality, and rich and 
poor, high and low, have passed through its stunted outer door 
to freedom or to penal servitude—perhaps to a still more dreadful 


268 


London of To-Day. 

doom. The public executions which disgraced London thirty 
years ago took place in front of the heavy-looking door left of 
the “ quarters ” of the governor. 

Returning to Ludgate Hill: a small court, Stationers’ Hall 
Court, leads to Paternoster Row, the great centre of the book¬ 
selling and publishing trade of London. There was a time 
when Paternoster Row harboured the grocery trade of the City, 
while the upper stories of the houses were taken by marchandes 
des modeSy and visited by all the beauty and elegance of the old 
City. Gaiety gave way to religion, and the marchandes des 
modes took flight to more modern streets westward, their place 
being taken by the rosary girls of Henry VIII.'s time. Luther’s 
translation of the Bible was publicly burnt in this neighbourhood, 
and, soon after, warrants were issued against those who burned 
it. So varied have been the applications of this inconvenient 
dingy “ row,” in an ancient alley of which the wayfarer may read 
an inscription stating that this is the highest point of old London. 
Amen Corner and Creed, Sermon and Ave Maria Lanes will tes¬ 
tify to the sacred associations of the locality whose central point 
of interest is that great and famous landmark of metropolitan 
London, the Cathedral of St. Paul. 

The history of a church, albeit the grandest and best known 
in all England, that dates back less than two centuries, must 
needs be meagre in detail. Apart from its architectural glories, 
the historical interest of the present cathedral chiefly centres in 
the records of its predecessors. It is said that a temple to Diana 
of the Ephesians once occupied the same spot in the old days 
when the Romans had brought their pagan worship to Britain. 
In this spot the pagan temple was succeeded by the first St. 
Paul’s, which was destroyed by fire in the reign of Stephen. 
Then arose one of the most famous of the world’s churches, 
Old St. Paul’s, a splendid Gothic cathedral with a towering 
spire, worthy of the greatest city in the world. But it enjoyed 
no great reputation as a place of worship in the best sense of the 
term. Every reader of the old dramatists will call to mind 


Ludgate Circus to St. Paul's. 269 

Paul’s Walk, and to what strange uses it was applied. An Act 
of the Common Council of Mary’s reign was deemed necessary 
to prevent the citizens carrying casks of beer, or baskets of 
bread, fish, flesh, vegetables and fruit through the cathedral. 
Elizabeth, in her turn, forbade duelling, sword-drawing or 
shooting there, and made agreements to pay money there illegal. 
For the church was thronged, in those days, by business men, 
who turned it into an exchange, and by lawyers who met their 
clients there, each selecting a particular pillar, which he used as 
a place of consultation. Advertisements of all sorts covered the 
walls; the least desirable kind of servants came there to be 
hired; and even cheats, thieves and assassins made it their 
meeting-place. Bishop Earle describes the noise of this motley 
crowd “as that of bees—a strange hum, mixed of walking 
tongues and feet—a kind of still roar or loud whisper.” Another 
bishop, Bishop Corbet, speaks of 

“. . . . the walk 

Where all our British sinners swear and talk, 

Old hardy ruffians, bankrupts, soothsayers, 

And youths whose cozenage is as old as theirs.” 

Lotteries were, in old time, drawn at the west door; and alto¬ 
gether the great cathedral of London seems to have been a 
place which honest men and women might have been at some 
pains to avoid. One of the strangest facts in its story is that 
this ex-temple of Diana, with all its shame and all its glory, 
was nearly purchased of Cromwell by the London Jews for a 
synagogue. Old St. Paul’s was destroyed in the Great Fire of 
1666. 

The first stone of the present St. Paul’s was laid on the 21st 
of June, 1675, by Sir Christopher Wren, the architect of the 
building. He notices in his “Parentalia” a little circumstance 
connected with the preparations, which was construed by those 
present to be a favourable omen, and which evidently interested 
and pleased his own mind. When the centre of the dimensions 
of the great dome was fixed upon, a man was ordered to bring a 


270 London of To-Day . 

flat stone from the rubbish to be laid as a mark for the masons. 
The piece he happened to pick up for his purpose was the frag¬ 
ment of a gravestone, with nothing of the inscription left but the 
word “ Resurgam,” “ I shall rise again.” And true enough St. 
Paul’s did rise again, with a splendour which posterity has ever 
admired. It is undoubtedly the second church in Christen¬ 
dom of its particular style of architecture, St. Peter’s at Rome 
being the first. Inferior in point of dimensions, and gloomy in 
contrast of St. Peter’s comparatively untarnished freshness— 
destitute, too, of marble linings, gilded arches and splendid 
mosaics, save in respect of its beautiful reredos—it is, on the 
whole, as Eustace, a critic prejudiced on the side of Rome 
acknowledged, a most extensive and stately edifice: “ It fixes 
the eye of the spectator as he passes, and challenges his 
admiration, and even next to the Vatican, though by a long 
interval, it claims’superiority over all the trans-alpine churches, 
and furnishes a just subject of national pride and exultation.” * 
It was not till 1710 that the building was complete, when the 
architect’s son laid the topmost stone on the lantern of the 
cupola. The total cost was ^747,954. The opening sermon 
was preached December 2nd, 1697, on the text, “ I was glad 
when they said unto me, Let us go into the House of the Lord.” 
Sir Christopher Wren’s tomb was the first to be erected in the 
church in the crypt. The famous epitaph in Latin originally 
chiselled upon it is repeated in gold lettering over the north 
door: “ Subtus conditur hujus ecclesiae et urbis conditor Ch. 
Wren qui vixit annos ultra nonaginta, non sibi sed bono publico. 
Lector, si monumentum requiris, circumspice.” Which may 
be translated: “ Beneath is buried Ch. Wren, architect of this 
Church and City, who lived for more than ninety years, not for 
himself, but for the public good. Reader, if thou seekest his 
monument, look around.” 

For a long time the only tomb in the church was that of Wren. 

* “London in Ancient and Modern Times” (The Religious Tract 
Society: London). 


271 


Ludgate Circus to St. Paul's. 

The next to be admitted to the honour of sepulture there was 
Howard, the philanthropist. His biographers say he was a 
cantankerous fellow at home, in spite of his great philanthropy ; 
and his face looks cross enough in his marble portrait statue. 
The third tomb in St. Paul’s was that of the great painter, Sir 
Joshua Reynolds ; and then came the scholar, Sir William Jones. 
Since that day, St. Paul’s has become the mausoleum of great 
soldiers and sailors, as Westminster Abbey is of poets and 
statesmen. Nelson’s tomb is here, with a monument by 
Flaxman; and also the massive tomb of the Duke of Wellington, 
surmounted by huge allegorical groups in bronze. There are 
memorials also to Lord Cornwallis, Sir Ralph Abercrombie, 
Collingwood, Sir John Moore, Lord Rodney, Earl St. Vincent, 
Sir Thomas Picton ; to those lost in the ill-fated Captain , to 
General Gordon, the Special Correspondents in the Soudan 
Campaign, and others. 

For some unknown reason, painters have shared this mauso¬ 
leum of the soldiers and sailors, instead of finding what would 
have seemed a more fitting home with the poets and musicians 
in Westminster Abbey; besides Sir Joshua, West, Lawrence, 
Barry, Opie, Fuseli and others; but, above all, Turner. As a 
whole, the monuments in St. Paul’s are remarkable chiefly 
for their subjects, though some few have special merit. The 
Reredos lately erected is of great beauty. It has been made 
the subject of litigation by the intolerant. 

The inner dome, painted by Sir James Thornhill, portrays 
events in the history of St. Paul. The Whispering Gallery is 
reached from an angle under the dome by 260 steps. The 
Stone Gallery is outside the base of the dome. The Outer 
Golden Gallery is at the summit of the dome, and the Inner 
Golden Gallery at the base of the lantern, whence the ascent is 
made by ladders to the Ball and Cross. From the Outer 
Golden Gallery may be obtained at early morning of a clear 
day the most perfect view of London possible. “ In high winds 
the creaking and whistling resemble those of a ship labouring 

21 


272 London of To-Day. 

in a storm.’* Visitors are admitted to the cathedral without tee, 
daily, except during Divine Service, which is appointed on 
Sundays, at 8 and 10.30 a.m., 3.15 and 7 p.m.; on weekdays at 
8, 10 and 4. The arrangements for admission to the parts not 
open to the public generally are as follows: namely, choir, 
which contains much exquisite carving by Grinling Gibbons, 
free, but closed except during Divine Service; whispering and 
other galleries, 6 d .; clock, bell, library and staircase, 6 d .; ball, 
is. 6 d. Compared with the Abbey, St. Paul’s has but slight 
wealth of association, though its solemn and ponderous bell 
(the fourth largest in England) suggests many melancholy 
memories, since it never gives forth a sound save when it is 
tolled on the occasion of the death of some member of the Royal 
Family, the Archbishop of Canterbury, the Bishop or Lord 
Mayor of London, or the Dean of the cathedral. On the east 
side of the cathedral stood the famous St. Paul’s School, 
founded by Dean Colet, in 1639. This school, with all its 
traditions, has now passed to the less interesting but more airy 
district of Kensington. 


Cheapside to the Bank. 


273 


Chapter XXVII. 

CHEAPSIDE TO THE BANK. 

E are now well within “ the City’s ” boundaries and the 



' ' jurisdiction of the Right Honourable the Lord Mayor. 
His territory barely exceeds one square mile, and the numbers 
of its resident subjects are hardly more than 50,000; yet within 
a stone’s-throw of his official residence is concentrated most of 
the material wealth of London. At the farther end of Cheap¬ 
side, in the heart of the City, less than half a mile from the 
Thames and London Bridge, various streets meeting form an 
irregular open place. This irregular open place is one of the 
most remarkable spots in London. For no other place, except 
that of Westminster, can vie with this in the importance of its 
buildings and the crowding of its streets, though many may 
surpass it in extent, beauty and architectural regularity. It has 
been designated “ the Capitoline Forum of British Rome. It 
holds its temples, the Mansion House, the Exchange and the 
Bank of England. In the centre the equestrian statue of the 
saviour of the Capitol, the Duke of Wellington.”* “All round 
are islands of pavements, as in other parts of the town, for the 
foot passengers to retire to from the maelstrom of vehicles.” It 
is well that there are these “islands,” for the traffic of omni¬ 
buses, cabs, carriages and carts at this point is greater, more 
confusing and dangerous, than in any other part of London. 

The City of London is under the government of the Lord 
Mayor, two sheriffs, 25 aldermen, 206 common councilmen, a 
recorder, and other officers, and is divided for municipal pur¬ 
poses into 26 wards, each of which is under the government 

* “Saunterings in and about London ” (London : 1853). 


274 London of To-Day. 

of an alderman. How long this arrangement shall continue 
is at present a matter of grave deliberation in metropolitan 
London. The Saxon denomination for the governor of London 
was portgraf, or portreeve, which, about a century after the 
Conquest, was changed to Mayor. This officer was appointed 
by the Ctown till 1215, when the citizens obtained the right of 
electing their own mayor. The mode of election now followed 
Was fixed in 1476 by an Act of Common Council. The Lord 
Mayor is annually chosen from the body of aldermen, at a 
court held at Guildhall on Michaelmas Day, and is sworn-in to 
the duties of his office on the 9th of November following. A 
grand pageant takes place on the occasion, followed by a dinner 
at Guildhall. Generally (though not always) the alderman next 
in seniority to the Lord Mayor is elected his successor. He is 
always “free” of one of the City Companies, and must have 
served the office of sheriff. The Lord Mayor is second only to 
the Sovereign within the City, and at the Sovereign’s death, by 
courtesy, he takes his seat at the Privy Council. His powers 
are similar to those of a lord-lieutenant of a county, and his 
authority extends only over the City, or, as it is now designated 
the County of the City of London. 

At the Mansion House lives the Lord Mayor. Here he holds 
his court, and during his year of office receives the homage of 
Statesmen, Lords spiritual and temporal, leader^ of the Commons ; 
Her Majesty’s Judges, and others learned in the law; the repre¬ 
sentatives of art, science, literature and commerce; naval and 
military commanders, and his principal colleagues of the muni¬ 
cipality. During the time he holds, if not “the seals,” the gold 
chain and other insignia of the dignified and exalted chief 
magistracy, the greater part of that time is taken up in dispensing 
the hospitality of the City. To enable him to do this with 
becoming splendour, he receives an official salary not much 
less than that which was formerly paid to the President of the 
United States, and hgs reserved to his use plate and other 
historic valuables which, according to a moderate computation, 


Cheapside to the Bank. 275 

are worth not less than ,£20,000. The Lord Mayor is expected 
to spend all his official salary in maintaining the immemorial 
splendour of his office, as well in respect of the banquets and 
entertainments he provides for the guests of the municipality, 
as of the carriages, horses, and retinue of servants he keeps. 
It is highly meritorious in him if he should spend a great deal 
more. Loud are the cheers and congratulations that await him 
on his taking leave of the citizens in the Guildhall on the 8th of 
November if he shall have succeeded in spending double his 
official salary. 

It is only right to say that the Lord Mayors of London have 
been always ready to do something more for the citizens than 
give magnificent feasts and show themselves in gilded carriages. 
The civic power of which they are the elected representatives 
and spokesmen has been used to good purpose for the people 
on many an eventful occasion. It offered a firm bulwark against 
the encroachments of the kings of England of former days, 
supported as they too often were by venal judges and parlia-r 
ments. In evil days the City government became a champion 
of liberty against the State government at Whitehall. The 
monument to Lord Mayor Beckford in the Guildhall sufficiently 
testifies that the City magistrates have not been without bold¬ 
ness, and even eloquence, in addressing the sovereigns of 
England (though, by the way, there is some doubt as to whether 
Beckford did deliver the extempore speech imputed to him) 
when the occasion seemed to call for it. Having now, so to 
say, presented our humble duty to the Lord Mayor on entering 
his territory, let us retrace our steps, for the moment, to the 
westward end of Cheapside. 

To the left, in St. Martin’s-le-Grand, are the General Post and 
Central Telegraph Offices. The older building was designed 
and built 1825-9, by Sir R. Smirke; the modern building, by 
J. Williams, dates from 1873. The present penny postal system 
(adopted at the suggestion of Rowland Hill) was introduced in 1840. 

In 1839 (the year before the introduction of the new postage) 


276 London of To-Day. 

there were 82,000,000 of letters posted, of which about 1 in 
every 13 was franked. In 1840, the circulation rose to 169,000,000, 
although franking was abolished. In 1888 it had reached the 
astonishing total of 1,300,000,000. Statistics show that in 
Scotland each member of the community there writes on the 
average 31 letters in the year, while in England and Wales the 
number is 41 ; in Ireland only 17. But increased letter corre¬ 
spondence is only one item in the growth of the Post Office. 
The circulation of post cards now exceeds 144,000,000. In 
addition, 288,000,000 of book packets and circulars, and 
140,000,000 of newspapers passed through the post in one 
year, making a total of more than 1,852,000,000 of packets 
of one kind and another. The increase in the circulation 
during a single year is now nearly equal to the total number 
of letters carried by the Department in 1839. The conveyance 
of correspondence is no longer the sole duty which the Post 
Office undertakes. It provides a speedy and safe way of 
remitting money, by means of post office orders and postal 
notes. The Post Office also carries on an enormous banking 
business. One person in every ten in England and Wales is 
its customer, and it holds deposits to the extent of ^40,000,000. 
Investments in Consols have been placed within the reach of 
the poor through the medium of the Savings Bank, while 
children have been encouraged to make a beginning of saving 
by means of the penny stamp slips. The carriage of parcels, 
the most important reform since the introduction of the penny 
post, has been initiated, and sixpenny telegrams have long been 
in operation. At the present day there are nearly 6,000 post 
offices and railway stations opened for the receipt and despatch 
of telegraph messages, and more than 30,000,000 of such 
messages are forwarded in the course of the year. These con¬ 
tinual adaptations of the postal system to the needs of the 
public have quickened the interest felt in the General Post 
Office, and that far-reaching organization controlled by it which 
plays so active a part in our daily life. 


2 77 


Cheapside to the Bank , 

We are still at the point where Newgate Street opens into 
Cheapside, and before making our way eastward may find it 
convenient to take a peep at Christ’s Hospital, which lies at the 
back of the modern Post Office buildings. The main entrance 
is in Christchurch Passage, Newgate Street; and there is a 
private entrance in Little Britain. This school, which will 
probably soon be a reminiscence of the past (so far as Newgate 
Street is concerned), was founded by King Edward VI., June 
26th, I 553 » on the site of the famous Gray Friars Monastery as 
part of a general scheme of charity for London, which had for 
its purpose the providing for the wants of the sick poor, the 
thriftless poor, the aged poor, the afflicted poor, and the vicious 
poor. In course of time the qualifications for admission of 
children to Christ’s Hospital have been more and more relaxed, 
until the one si?ie qua non of Edward’s time, that they should 
be poor fatherless children, no longer exists. The government 
of the charity, which is the second richest in Great Britain, is 
vested in a President, Treasurer, and Board of Governors, com¬ 
prising every class of persons, from the Queen and Royal Family 
downwards. To admit of a person becoming a Life Governor, 
he must have subscribed ^400 to the school fund, which 
donation entitles him, always, to have one boy in the institution 
on his presentation, and to a vote at general meetings of the 
governors. The uniform of the boys is the same as that worn 
by children of humble rank in the days of the Tudors, a blue 
cloth gown with silvered buttons, black velveteen knee breeches, 
yellow stockings, shoes, a red leather belt, and clerical bands of 
white linen. Christ’s Hospital not only clothes, feeds, boards, 
and educates her children gratuitously, but in some cases pro¬ 
vides for them at starting in life. In connection with the 
institution are charities for assisting “Old Boys” in distress, 
and a society formed of ex-scholars themselves, called the 
“ Benevolent Society of Blues.” 

School work all through the year begins in the morning at 9, 
and ends at 12 ; in the afternoon at 2, and ends at 5. The 


278 London of To-Day . 

meals are taken in the “ Great Hall ”—next to Westminster the 
finest in London ; and everything in the way of diet is clean, 
ample and wholesome. Before each of the meals, which con¬ 
sist of breakfast, dinner and supper, grace is said by one of the 
“ Grecians,” or senior scholars, from a pulpit in the centre of the 
hall—which, among other things, contains a good collection of 
paintings, and one of the finest organs in London. The boys 
dine at 1, and strangers are permitted to be present. 

Adjoining Christ’s Hospital is another of the “royal hospitals” 
which were founded by Edward VI., that of St. Bartholomew. 
It may be most conveniently reached by leaving Christ’s Hos¬ 
pital by the lodge-gate in Little Britain, and keeping the same 
side of the street (the west) for about fifty yards. 

St. Bartholomew’s Hospital was first founded in the twelfth 
century, and refounded by Henry VIII. in 1546. The building, 
a spacious quadrangular structure, is principally modern, having 
been finished in 1770. It makes up 710 beds, of which about 
400 are for surgical cases. About 106,000 patients are relieved 
by this hospital annually, viz., 6,000 in-patients, 100,000 out¬ 
patients. Necessity is the only recommendation to this institu¬ 
tion ; and patients are relieved without limitation. The medical 
staff is equal to any in the Metropolis. Harvey, who discovered 
the circulation of the blood, was for thirty-four years phy¬ 
sician to St. Bartholomew’s. Abernethy was one of its famous 
lecturers ; and Richard Owen, “the greatest anatomist,” according 
to Cuvier, “of his age.” The staircase was gratuitously painted 
by Hogarth. 

Retracing our steps once more to the great central thorough¬ 
fare of Cheapside, one of the oldest and most famous of London 
streets, intimately associated with its civic glories for centuries 
past: on its north side is Foster Lane, where stands the hall of 
the Goldsmiths’ Company. Then follow in order, Wood, Milk 
and King Streets, all centres of great commercial activity, con¬ 
nected with the silk, woollen and “ Manchester” trades. 

At the foot of King Street stands the Guildhall, where the 


Cheapside to the Bank . 


279 


Corporation meetings, festivals and Common Halls are held. 
Having been much damaged in the Great Fire of 1666, it was 
replaced by an edifice in some part constructed of the materials 
of the old building, of which the crypt and walls alone remained. 
The present front was added in 1865-68, when the fine Gothic 
roof was built. The great hall, 153 feet in length by 48 in 
breadth, and 53 in height, built and paved of stone, is capable 
of accommodating 6,000 persons: at least that number were 
present at the grand entertainment given by the Corporation 
to the Allied Sovereigns in 1814. At each end of the hall is a 
magnificent painted glass window in the pointed style. In the 
hall are statues erected by the Corporation in honour of Lord 
Chatham and his son the Right Honourable William Pitt, 
Nelson and Alderman Beckford. On the pedestal of the latter 
is inscribed the reply (already referred to) made, or rather said 
to have been made, in 1770, by Beckford, who was then Lord 
Mayor and one of the Members for the City, to the answer of 
George III. to an address and remonstrance of the Common 
Council. At the west end of the hall are the two wooden 
giants called Gog and Magog, the subject of so many nursery 
tales. In the council-chamber, where the Lord Mayor, Aider- 
men and Common Council hold their courts, is a statue of 
George III. by Chantry. 

The adjoining library and City Art Gallery contain, besides 
a large and valuable collection of works of reference, etc., 
specimens of Roman antiquities found in London, and MSS., 
coins, medals, and pictures, interesting memorials connected 
with the City and its Corporation. The nucleus of the collection 
began with the interesting discoveries made in excavating for 
the foundations of the Royal Exchange. Thirty feet below the 
surface a deep pit was reached, and was found to be full of 
the remains of Roman London, comprising a number of coins of 
the Roman Empire, bushels of the red Samian pottery, sandals, 
tablets, bronze styles and other curious articles. 

In Cheapside, on the south side of the way, is the famous 


280 


London of To-Day. 


church of St. Mary-le-Bow, otherwise St. Mary de Arcubus, 
so-called from being built on arches, wherefrom was named the 
ecclesiastical Court of Arches, formerly held here. Bow Church 
is known to every student of English legendary lore for those 
bells which are supposed to have enticed Dick Whittington back 
to the City. That hero’s poetic fancy led him to believe (so, at 
least, runs the story) that they sweetly chimed out the invitation, 
“ Turn again Whittington, Lord Mayor of London.” So he made 
his way back from Highgate, and afterward rode in state as chief 
magistrate of the City through Cheapside no less that four times 
to the sound of these same bells. The bishops-elect of the 
province of Canterbury take the oaths of supremacy at this 
church before their consecration. 

In Bread Street, close at hand, England’s greatest epic poet, 
John Milton, was born (December 9th, 1608), being baptized in 
the Church of Allhallows,which till the year 1877, when it was 
demolished, stood in this old thoroughfare. Here also anciently 
stood the Mermaid, the tavern which Shakespeare most fre¬ 
quented, and where he held the famous sittings with his friends. 
Milton’s house showed the sign of the “ Spread Eagle,” after the 
arms of his family, which the poet also bore, and which sur¬ 
viving in a little alley named Spread Eagle Court, long indicated 
the spot where, before the fire of 1666, stood the house in which 
John Milton was born. The Mermaid was also destroyed in 
the same fire. Milk Street, nearly opposite, was the birthplace 
of Sir Thomas More. The greater part of the streets here¬ 
abouts, with the lanes adjoining, are occupied by the offices or 
warehouses of wholesale dealers in carpets, cloth, silk, hosiery, 
lace, etc., and are resorted to by London and country shop¬ 
keepers for supplies. Occasionally one may see some very 
beautiful “ newest fashions ” in those “ lines ” displayed in the 
somewhat dingy shop-windows hereabouts. The wayfarer, if he 
be in the mood, may perchance find an old church, churchyard, 
or court worth peeping into in these by-places off the main 
thoroughfares. At the east end of Cheapside is the Poultry, so 


Cheapside to the Bank. 281 

designated, in centuries past, when the stalls of the dealers in 
poultry stood here. Their principal market now lies at the back 
of Leadenhall Street. The father of Tom Hood lived at No. 31, 
in the Poultry, and here (1798) the author of the “Song of the 
Shirt” himself was born. It is perhaps unnecessary to say that 
the Old Jewry, which lies on the north side, was so named from 
the Hebrew merchants who once congregated here. The head 
office of the City Police is at 26, Old Jewry. Facing Cheapside 
is the building in which daily “ in all great States the fate of 
Europe is bought and sold.” The Royal Exchange, originally 
erected by Sir Thomas Gresham, in 1566, was burnt down in the 
Great Fire. It was rebuilt within three years, and extensively 
repaired between 1820 and 1826. Having been again destroyed 
by fire on the 10th of January, 1838, it was again rebuilt, from a 
design by Mr. Tite, and is now one of the colossal fabrics of the 
City. The building was opened in 1844. It is quadrangular, 
and has a colonnade and pediment fronting Cornhill. The 
court inside is surrounded by piazzas. The merchants and 
others frequenting the building long complained of not being 
sufficiently protected from the weather, a defect which is now 
remedied. In the quadrangle is a statue of Her Majesty, by 
Lough, and it is further ornamented with statues of Queen 
Elizabeth, Sir Thomas Gresham, and Sir Hugh Myddelton. 
Lloyd’s, and the Royal Exchange Assurance, have their offices 
in the building. The busiest time “on ’Change” is from 3.30 
to 4.30 in the afternoon, during which hour may be seen there 
the representatives of the great banking and shipping firms of 
London. 

On the north side of the Royal Exchange stands the Bank of 
England, which occupies some three acres of ground. From its 
first incorporation in 1694 to 1734 it transacted its affairs at 
Grocers’ Hall in the Poultry. The first stone of the present 
building was laid in 1732 ; forty years after the east and west 
wings were added; and in 1781 the Church of St. Christopher 
was taken down to make room for further additions, Until 


282 London of To-Day , 

1825 this edifice exhibited a great variety of incongruous styles ; 
but endeavours were subsequently made, and with some success, 
to secure uniformity. In shape the building is an irregular 
parallelogram, the longest side measuring 440 feet. Many of the 
rooms in the interior, such as the Bank parlour, payroom, and 
dividend office are spacious and well-proportioned ; the largest 
and loftiest of all is the rotunda, a circular hall 57 feet in 
diameter, and crowned by a handsome cupola and lantern. 
The chief transactions with the Funds take place in this apart¬ 
ment. The management of the Bank of England is vested 
in a board of twenty-four directors, a governor and a deputy- 
governor. Nominally, the election of the directors is in the 
hands of the stockholders; virtually, they are self-elected. In 
theory, a certain portion retire annually ; but if the board recom¬ 
mends it, they are re-elected. The elder members of the board, 
those who have passed the chair, constitute an important body, 
called the Committee of Treasury, which settles many vital 
questions affecting the money market. It may be mentioned 
that the qualification for governor is ^4,000 of stock; deputy- 
governor, ^3,000; and director, ^2,000. The directors meet 
weekly, on. Thursdays, at eleven. The Bank is the agent of the 
Government, on behalf of which it receives the taxes, pays the 
interest of the National Debt—about twenty-five millions in 
dividends to 284,000 holders of stock, and, in return for work 
done, the Bank receives a commission equivalent to about 
^120,000, with more than the same sum, usually, profit derived 
from the discounting of mercantile bills, with the floating balance 
of about four millions sterling of public money deposited in its 
cellars. It has notes in circulation to the value of eighteen 
millions, every note being cancelled on its being paid in. The 
Bullion Office is inaccessible to visitors except in company of a 
director ; the other parts of the building, as the weighing office, 
the bank-note machinery room, are open to the public by a 
governor’s order. The official hours are from 10 to 4. A sub¬ 
altern’s guard of one of the regiments doing duty in London 


Cheapside to the Bank. 


283 


takes possession of the Bank at night. Upwards of a thousand 
persons are employed by the “ Old Lady of Threadneedle 
Street,” the salaries and wages of whom amount to nearly 
£260,000 a year, in addition to pensions to superannuated 
officials amounting annually to ,£35,000. Close to the east side 
of the Bank of England, in Capel Court, is the Stock Exchange, 
whose origin may be traced to Jonathan’s Coffee-house, which 
in the last century had its location in Change Alley. The Stock 
Exchange has about 2,000 members, who pay an entrance fee of 
£100 and an annual subscription of £21, unless the candidate 
for admission shall have previously stood as clerk to a member, 
in which case he pays an entrance fee of £60, and an annual 
subscription of twelve guineas* 


284 


London of, To-Day. 


Chapter XXVIII. 


THROUGH THE CITY TO THE TOWER. 

E say “through the City,” although we are already more 



V * than half-way “ through ” its great centre thoroughfares 
in the direction of the Tower. But when one has arrived at the 
Bank, he has got to travel many a crowded street before he 
arrives at what we will suppose to be his destination. Few 
persons, on sight-seeing bent, go beyond the famous old fortress 
on Tower Hill; many, it is to be regretted, seldom get so far. 
A First Commissioner of Works, to whom is due the merit of 
restoring a portion of the old Tower wall, and pulling down the 
hideous warehouses that disfigured the river front, took a party of 
500 gentlemen, members of the Houses of Lords and Commons, 
to view the improvements he had brought about. Of that number, 
according to Mr. Shaw Lefevre, the Minister referred to, not 
more than a hundred had ever seen the interior of the Tower of 
London. We venture to hope that our readers may be more 
curious about a building of such world-wide fame as the Tower, 
and we therefore propose in the present chapter to devote some 
space to pointing out its most interesting features. 

Leaving the neighbourhood of the Bank by way of King 
William Street, and turning sharp round to the left, we enter 
upon Eastcheap, the Eastcheap of the famous Boar’s Head 
Tavern of Shakespeare’s days. We shall see nothing of that 
ancient hostelry, though some relics of it, in the shape of a boar’s 
head carved in wood, which some time served as its sign, and a 
parcel-gilt goblet, out of which Jack Falstaff drank (or is said to 
have drunk), are still, we believe, extant. The old tavern stood 
where the statue of William IV. now stands, facing London 




The Tower of London. 






























Through the City to the Tower. 285 

Bridge. On Fish Street Hill is the Monument, a fluted column 
of the Doric order, erected in 1671-77, by Sir Christopher Wren, 
to commemorate the Great Fire of London (1666), which com¬ 
menced at the house of one Farryner, a baker, in Pudding Lane, 
close by. It is 202 feet high, and the diameter at the base is 
15 feet; the cone at the top, with its blazing urn of gilt brass, 
measures 42 feet. On the west side of the pedestal is a bas- 
relief by C. G. Cibber. It is hollow, and contains 345 steps. 
Admittance from 9 till dusk; charge, 3 d. each person. At 
the north-west corner of London Bridge (to be seen from East- 
cheap) is the hall of the ancient company of Fishmongers, whose 
banquets are of the most sumptuous character, sumptuous even 
beyond those of its more famous contemporaries of the City 
guilds. Continuing our walk down Eastcheap, right and left of 
which are many well-known commercial thoroughfares, the proper 
description of which would require more space than we can con¬ 
veniently spare for the purpose, we come into Great Tower 
Street, and so upon Tower Hill, where stood the wooden scaffold 
on which so many eminent persons were beheaded in days past. 
Tradition points to the present garden of Trinity Square as the 
spot where it stood. It is best, before we proceed farther, to 
give the regulations for admission to the Tower; these are as 
follows :—Open on week days from 10 till 4 ; and on free days, 
from May 1st to September 30th, from 10 till 6. Free on Mondays 
and Saturdays. On other days 6 d. to the Armoury and the 
White Tower, and 6 d. to the Crown Jewels. 

The Tower of London was begun by William the Conqueror 
in 1078. The original building, now called the White Tower, 
was completed in 1098. Additions were made by Henry III. in 
1240, by Edward IV. in 1465, and the whole was substantially 
repaired in 1663, by Charles II. The Grand Storehouse, a large 
building north of the White Tower, begun by James II. and 
finished by William III., was destroyed by fire in 1841. On the 
site of this storehouse, barracks for the troops stationed here 
were built. The ditch, or moat, was drained in 1834. The Tower 


22 


286 


London of To-Day. 

was a royal palace during more than five hundred years. It was 
long also, and still in fact is, a State prison; and several royal 
personages and some of the most illustrious of Englishmen have 
perished in this edifice, not a few by the hands of public execu¬ 
tioners, and some by the dagger and bowl of the assassin. Next 
the river there is a broad quay; and on this side also there was 
a channel (now closed) by which boats formerly passed into the 
main body of the place. This water entrance is known by the 
name of Traitors’ Gate, being that by which, in former days, 
State prisoners were brought in boats after their trial at West¬ 
minster. It was generally considered to be a work of much merit 
architecturally ; and the spot itself is as sacred as any that recalls 
the notable events of English history. Through the grim old 
archway once passed Buckingham, “ no man’s enemy but his 
own,” though the professed enemy of the ambitious Wolsey,—a 
man, we are told, “ apparently too vain and incautious in dis¬ 
position.” Here stood Elizabeth refusing to land until the 
lords who escorted her threatened to use force; placing her foot 
upon the stairs, and declaring with the energy peculiar to her 
character: “ Here landeth as true a subject, being a prisoner, 
as ever landed at these stairs; and before thee, O God! I speak 
it, having none other friend than Thee.” In January of 1640, 
Strafford came back to the Tower through the gateway, with 
the axe towards him : that Strafford who, with composed and 
undaunted air, from the scaffold told the furious populace that 
were ready to tear him in pieces, “ He was come there to satisfy 
them with his head; but that he much feared the Reformation, 
which was begun in blood, would not prove so fortunate to the 
kingdom as they expected and he desired.” Fisher, the cardinal, 
and Surrey the elegant poet and distinguished soldier, landed 
here prisoners : as did Sir Walter Raleigh and Lady Jane Grey, 
and, tradition says, Wallace and Bruce, and many others whose 
names are to be found in the earlier pages of English history— 
“ names in which,” says Mr. Hepworth Dixon, “ the splendour, 
poetry and sentiment of England’s national story are embalmed.” 


Through the City to the Tower. 287 

There are three other entrances or postern-gates—Lion Gate, 
Iron Gate and Water Gate. The interior of the Tower is an 
irregular assemblage of short streets and courtyards, bounded 
by various structures. The White Tower, or Keep, is the oldest 
of these buildings ; and the Chapel in it is a fine specimen of a 
small Norman church. Other towers are—the Lion Tower, near 
the principal entrance; the Middle Tower, the first seen on pass¬ 
ing the ditch ; the Bell Tower, adjacent to it; the Bloody Tower, 
nearly opposite Traitors’ Gate; the Salt Tower, near the Iron 
Gate; the Brick Tower, the Bowyer Tower and the Beauchamp 
Tower. In the upper chamber of the Bowyer Tower, after the 
total defeat of the Lancastrians at Tewkesbury, during the Wars 
of the Roses in 1471, Henry VI. was murdered by the Duke of 
Gloucester, afterwards Richard III. In a room of the Bloody 
Tower were lodged Edward V., and his brother the Duke of 
York ; and here, behind a stair, were said to have been found the 
bones of these ill-fated youths in the reign of the Second Charles. 
Everyone knows the story of the murder of the infant princes. 

In the Bowyer Tower (named from being the residence of the 
King’s bowyer), the Duke of Clarence, brother of Edward IV., 
having been permitted to chose his mode of death, is said to 
have been drowned in a butt of malmsey, 1474. The Devereux 
Tower was named after Devereux, Earl of Essex, who was im¬ 
prisoned herein by Queen Elizabeth. In the Jewel or Martin 
Tower the Crown jewels were formerly kept. In the Salt Tower 
is a curious device on the wall, of a sphere, the signs of the 
Zodiac, etc., said to have been drawn by Hugh Draper, of Bristol, 
1561, imprisoned here on suspicion of sorcery. In the Bell 
Tower (the Governor’s House, not now exhibited) were im¬ 
prisoned Queen Elizabeth when princess ; Lady Lennox, grand¬ 
mother of James I.; Bishop Fisher, and Guy Faux and some of 
“ the Gunpowder Plot ” conspirators. The Beauchamp Tower- 
taking its name from the Earl of Warwick, imprisoned here in 
1 397-—is a very interesting museum of inscriptions, devices and 
coats-of-arms, sculptured by sad inmates (Anne Boleyn among the 


288 London of To-Day . 

number) to beguile the hours of imprisonment, many long years 
ago. A sentence rudely carved on the wall bears the superscrip¬ 
tion—“ Arundell, June 22, 1587. Quanto plus afflidionis pro 
Christo in hoc scsculo , tanto plus glories cum Christo in futuro .” 
There you have in a few words, says Mr. Hepworth Dixon, the 
“whole character of Philip Howard, Earl of Arundell, an austere 
man, the tenor of whose behaviour was not unbecoming the 
primitive ages of the Christian Church.” And there is a name— 
IANE—carved on the wall of the Brick Tower, that tells whole 
chapters of love, ambition and suffering—carved by th # e hand of 
a foolish but affectionate husband. Lord Guilford Dudley dug 
the word out of the masonry before he passed from his prison 
to the scaffold. Lady Jane Grey herself was imprisoned at 
“ Master Partridge’s lodgings,” probably the rooms of one of the 
officials of the Tower; Queen Anne Boleyn in “the palace,” 
long since demolished. The most ancient part of the fortress, as 
we have said, is the White Tower, ascribed to William the 
Conqueror. It has three lofty stories, and vaults below, each 
story having one large room and two smaller ones. The 
smallest apartment on the first floor, called Queen Elizabeth’s 
Armoury, has a doorway communicating with a cell 10 feet long 
by 8 feet wide, but unlighted except by the door. Sir Walter 
Raleigh is said to have been imprisoned in these rooms, and to 
have here written his “ History of the World.” There are in¬ 
scriptions near the door of the little cell of Rudstone, Fane and 
Culpepper, adherents of Sir Thomas Wyatt in his rebellion, 1553. 
Above it is St. John’s Chapel, one of the finest specimens of 
Norman architecture in England, but long unused for religious 
purposes. Upon the next floor is the Council Room and Banquet¬ 
ing Hall, when the kings of England held their Court at the Tower, 
but which is now used for the storage of small arms, arranged in 
various ingeniously contrived groups and devices. The Horse 
Armoury, which is the chief “show-place” of the Tower, con¬ 
tains a number of equestrian and other figures in the armour of 
.several reigns, from Henry VI., 1422, to James II., 1685. The 


Through the City to the Tower. 289 

Regalia, or Crown Jewels, to be seen in the Wakefield Tower, 
are said to be worth ^3,000,000. 

The little Chapel of St. Peter-ad-Vincula, on what was once 
Tower Green, stands at the north-west corner of the parade. It 
has been so often renovated that but little remains of the earlier 
structure. It was long used by the State prisoners in the Tower, 
and dates from 1305-6. The great historical interest which attaches 
to a spot where so many remarkable persons have been buried 
far exceeds that which the church itself possesses on the score 
of antiquity. “There is no sadder place on earth,” wrote 
Macaulay, “ than this little cemetery. Hither have been carried 
through successive ages by the rude hands of gaolers, without 
one mourner following, the bleeding relics of men who had been 
the captains of armies, the leaders of parties, the oracles of senates, 
and the ornaments of courts.” The memorial tablet at the 
entrance shows the names of thirty-four persons of historical 
note who were buried in this spot; among them Fisher, Sir 
Thomas More, Anne Boleyn, Thomas Cromwell Earl of Essex, 
Queen Katherine Howard, the Lord Protector Somerset, Lady 
Jane Grey, etc. The warders, one of whom is told off to con¬ 
duct the visitor and his party through the Tower, are vulgarly 
called “ beef-eaters.” These battle-axe guards were first raised 
by Henry VII., in 1485. They still attend the Sovereign on 
State occasions, standing guard in the corridors and on the stair¬ 
ways of the Queen’s Palace. The warders wear a costume 
which dates from Tudor Times. 

North-east of the Tower lies the Mint, the establishment in 
which the coinage of the realm is made. The rooms, the 
machinery, and processes for coining are full of interest, and may 
be viewed by “ visitors who have previously obtained a written 
order from the Master of the Mint, ‘Available but for one. day,’ 
marked thereon, and for a small number of persons not exceeding 
six, the number to be stated when the application is made.” 

The building north of the Tower (on Tower Hill) is the Trinity 
House, built by Samuel Wyatt for a corporation (founded temp. 


290 


London of To-Day , 


Henry VIII.) having for its object the increase and encouragement 
of navigation, the regulation of lighthouses and sea-marks, etc., 
and incorporated as “ The Masters, Wardens and Assistants of 
the Guild or Fraternity or Brotherhood of the most Glorious and 
Undividable Trinity.” There are here some pictures and busts 
of celebrated persons, a large painting by Gainsborough of the 
“Elder Brethren of the Trinity House,” and some interesting 
naval relics and curiosities. Applications for admission should 
be made to the secretary. Skirting the Tower to the east, the 
visitor will reach St. Katherine Docks, a part of London 
interesting only to travellers coastwise in the summer months, 
and to shippers. If he should be desirous of seeing the docks 
and shipping of the port, he can hardly do better than take the 
river steamer from London Bridge (Old Swan Stairs), on the 
south-west side of the bridge), to Blackwall, or the train from 
Fenchurch Street Station to the same point. 


Cornhill and the Neighbourhood. 


291 


Chapter XXIX. 


CORNHILL AND THE NEIGHBOURHOOD. 
ORNHILL is the principal street east of the Mansion 



House. It forms one side of a scalene triangle, of which 
Lombard Street may be said to form the other, and Gracechurch 
Street the base. Skirting the Royal Exchange for a short dis¬ 
tance, it terminates in Leadenhall Street, whence the wayfarer 
may reach Aldgate, Houndsditch (the Hebrew quarter) and the 
populous but poor district of Whitechapel. 

Between Cornhill and Lombard Street lie a number of courts, 
at one time well-known for their taverns and commercial rooms. 
Change Alley is not the least famous of these places. Here was 
Garraway’s Coffee-house, in its day one of the oldest in London 
—which existed, indeed, for more than two centuries. From 
the time of its establishment by Thomas Garraway, “tobacco- 
dealer and coffee-man,” in the seventeenth century, to the date 
of its being closed in 1866, it was a place for auctions—at first of 
wine, then of tea, and later of mahogany and logwood. During 
the year of the South Sea scheme the waves of speculation and 
of swindling rose nowhere higher than in and around this little 
alley. In a poem on this subject, Swift says that Change Alley 
is “ a gulf deep as hell, in which thousands are wrecked; and 
‘ Garraway’s ’ is the rock on which the wild race of wreckers lie 
in ambush to plunder those who are cast ashore.” The great 
auction room was on the first floor. Here public sales took 
place “by the candle”—that is, at the commencement the 
auctioneer lighted a bit of wax candle, usually an inch in length, 
and then decided in favour of him who, when the light went out, 
had made the highest bid. “Jonathan’s” Coffee-house, which 
was contemporary with “ Garraway’s,” was a place for stock¬ 
jobbers as early as the time of “Mr. Spectator.” “Lloyd’s” 


292 


London of To-Day. 

Coffee-rooms survives in the present world-famous “ Lloyd’s ” at 
the north-western corner of the Royal Exchange. The “Jerusa¬ 
lem ” was another celebrated commercial coffee-house which, like 
others, had its location between Lombard Street and Cornhill. 

Lombard Street is the centre of the banking interest of 
England. It derives its name from the Longobards, a rich 
race of merchants and money-lenders who settled here in 
Edward II.’s reign, and whose badge, the three golden balls of the 
Medici family, still survives in the well-known sign of the pawn¬ 
brokers. Pope (according to Dr. Warton) was born in this street. 

At the bottom of Cornhill, Bishopsgate Street branches out 
on the left, and Gracechurch Street on the right. In the first- 
named thoroughfare anciently stood one of the old City gates. 
Its principal places of historic interest now are the Church of 
Great St. Helen’s, in which are some memorials of eminent 
personages who in time past used to reside in the neighbour¬ 
hood ; and the restored Crosby Hall (in parts a fair example of ~ 
fifteenth-century architecture), now used as a restaurant. The 
original edifice was built by Sir John Crosby, an alderman and 
M.P. for London, in 1461. For four centuries it played a part 
in national as well as civic history. It was used as prison and 
as palace, was the scene of royal gaieties and civic splendour, 
and finally for commercial speculation. Its rooms have re¬ 
sounded with the wit and wisdom of More and Sully, the strains 
solemn and airy of Byrde and Morley, and with old Puritan and 
modern eloquence. Within sight of this tavern Shakespeare 
fixed his abode at that period of his career when he was writing 
some of the choicest of his works. The poet’s name appears 
(October 1st, 1598) in the parish records of St. Helen’s, 
Bishopsgate, as payer of an assessment of £5 13s. 4 d. Sir 
Thomas More (who himself once lodged at Crosby Hall) 
addressed to his “dearest friend,” Antonio Bonvici, merchant of 
Lucca (who, by the way, first taught the English to spin with 
the distaff), then living there, his last sad letter from the Tower, 
written with a bit of charcoal, on the night before his execution. 


Cornhill and the Neighbourhood ’ 293 

Leadenhall Street, well-known from its old associations with 
the East India House, which formerly stood here, and to which 
for many years Charles Lamb used daily to trudge to his un¬ 
congenial “ scribbling ” in the great leather-covered ledgers, is 
now the centre of the shipping trade. Its most interesting 
building to-day is the old Ship and Turtle Tavern, where 
may be had the toothsomest meal of turtle to be found within 
a city famous for its turtle. It is right to add that the Ship 
and Turtle does not provide this succulent dish without 
demanding a handsome quid pro quo . 

The Church of St. Catherine Cree (or Christ) Church is 
historically remarkable as having been consecrated (1631) by 
Laud, then Bishop of London, with such ceremonies as laid him 
open to the 'charges upon which he was subsequently tried. 
11 At his approach to the west door,” says Rushworth, “ some 
that was prepared for it cried with a loud voice, ‘ Open, open, 
ye everlasting doors, that the King of Glory may enter in.’ And 
presently the doors were opened, and the Bishop, with three 
Doctors of Divinity, and many other principal men, went in, and 
immediately falling down upon his knees, with his eyes lifted 
up, and his arms spread abroad, uttered the words : ‘ This place 
is holy, this ground is holy. In the Name of the Father, Son, 
and Holy Ghost.’ Then he took up some of the dust and threw 
it up into the air several times in his going up towards the 
church. When they approached near to the rail and com¬ 
munion table the Bishop bowed several times.” Laud, to judge 
from Rushworth’s description, afterwards went through such 
ceremonial at the communion table as anyone may now witness 
on most Sundays of the year at any of the so-called Ritualistic 
places of worship in London. 

Fenchurch Street, beyond which, eastward, it is not our pur¬ 
pose to take the reader, is best known as being the locality of 
the great markets for corn and colonial produce—Mark and 
Mincing Lanes. Here is the station for Shadwell, the East and 
West India Docks, Tilbury, etc. 


294 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XXX. 

FROM THE TOWER TO WESTMINSTER, BY WAY 
OF THE EMBANKMENT. 

HERE is a choice of ways of returning from the Tower 



district to “ the West End: ” either by the more direct 
route of Great Tower Street, Eastcheap and Cannon Street; 
or by Thames Street, up Fish Street Hill, and so into Cannon 
Street. Since by following the first we should be only traversing 
the same ground twice over, we will choose the second, though it 
is perhaps the more crowded and less desirable of the two. 

Thames Street—that part of it below London Bridge is called 
Lower Thames Street, the above-bridge portion being known as 
Upper Thames Street—is now one of the oldest, busiest and 
most crowded of London highways. Its narrow thoroughfare is 
hemmed-in on either hand by lofty warehouses ; those on the left 
fronting on the river. From early morning till late afternoon 
the street is almost impassable, by reason of the heavy waggons 
loading and unloading goods for, or from, the great railroads, the 
docks, and the shipping in the river. If the Reader were to search 
the City far and wide he would hardly find another so densely 
packed business quarter. Here, in the days when Edward III., 
that king who led the stalwart English bowmen against the 
French at Crecy, ruled England, lived Geoffrey Chaucer, at the 
house of his father, a vintner. Thames Street, dirty and gloomy 
and crowded as it now is, was then a peaceful and rural highway, 
connecting the king’s fortress of the Tower, by way of the Black 
Friars’ Monastery, the Strand, and the village of Charing, with 
the King’s Palace at Westminster. Trees, fields and such 
primitive gardens as were then in vogue skirted it, with houses of 
the well-to-do citizens at irregular intervals; and here and there 



The Embankment 















































T 
























9 










■ 

























■V 


4 













































« 































From the Tower to Westminster. 295 

stood some of the more imposing dwellings of the nobility. The 
river, broad and clear, flowed near at hand, its waters lapping the 
shingly shore which now forms the foundations of the City 
wharves and warehouses. At the eastern end, toward the 
Tower, was the broad approach to London Bridge (then not long 
built), forming the only access across the Thames to Southwark, 
and so to the main road through Kent to its capital city of Canter¬ 
bury. He, whose chief interest in London lies in bringing to 
mind such reminiscences as these, may in imagination follow 
Geoffrey Chaucer from his dwelling in Thames Street to The 
Tabard in Southwark, and thence follow the pilgrims in their 
journey through Kent to the sacred shrine in Canterbury 
Cathedral. We can only regret that our business with the 
reader does not admit of our going with him farther in that 
direction'. 

In Lower Thames Street are two public buildings whose 
river-front is somewhat imposing—the Custom House and 
Billingsgate Fish Market. The latter, though old in name, is 
comparatively a new building, greater part of it dating from 1877, 
when considerable additions to the older market were completed. 
Some persons, we believe, are sufficiently venturesome to 
visit Billingsgate when at the high-tide of business, namely, 
at five o’clock in the morning; but we cannot advise this 
excursion. The noise, wrangling and unsavoury smells, to say 
nothing of the great difficulty of pushing one’s way through the 
market, are enough to deter any but a very spirited student of 
London life from making such a visit. The “ river-borne ” fish 
arrive in steamers, smacks and boats from the coast or more 
distant seas, consigned to salesmen, who, during the early market 
hours, deal with the retail fishmongers from every part of London. 
The inferior fish, such as haddock and plaice, are bought by 
costermongers or street-dealers. When the season’s fish are 
scarce, the West End dealers will pay handsomely for the rarity ; 
hence a struggle between the boats to reach the market early. 
At times, so many boats come laden with the same kind of fish as 


306 London of To-Day. 

to it by Henry VII., who built the splendid chapel that still bears 
his name ; and at the beginning of the eighteenth century the two 
towers of the west front were added, from designs furnished, it is 
said, by Sir Christopher Wren. In 1803 a considerable part 
of the building was destroyed by fire, but it was subsequently 
completely repaired, and Henry VII.’s Chapel renovated in its 
original style. It has undergone still further renovation in recent 
time. No other church in the world is so rich in historic 
associations. In the words of Dr. A. P. Stanley, the eloquent 
and learned predecessor of the present Dean of Westminster: 
“ Here lies the body of the Confessor, himself like the now 
decayed seed from which the wonderful pile has grown. Around 
his shrine are clustered not only the names, but the early relics, 
of the principal actors in every scene of English history. 
Seventeen kings lie here, from PMward the Confessor to 
George II. ; and ten queens lie buried with them, amid England’s 
greatest statesmen, warriors, divines, poets and scholars.” 

The number of statues and monuments in Westminster Abbey 
is very great; most of them are contained in side chapels, of 
which there are several, viz., St. Benedict’s, St. Edmund’s, St. 
Nicholas’s, St. Paul’s, St. Erasmus’s, John the Baptist’s, and 
Bishop Islip’s ; besides Henry VII.’s, and Edward the Confessor’s 
Chapels. These chapels contain about ninety monuments and 
shrines, some of great beauty. 

Of the Anglo-Saxon line of monarchs, Sebert, king of the East 
Angles, and his queen Ethelgonda, lie beneath a sarcophagus 
next the shrine of the last of the Saxon kings, Edward the 
Confessor. Nine of the early wielders of England’s sceptre lie 
in Westminster Abbey, the warrior kings Edward I., Edward III., 
and Henry V., enshrined in marble altar-tombs; that of the last- 
named lacking the silver plates and silver head of the king’s 
effigy, which were removed by sacrilegious thieves in 1546. 
Weak Henry III., and that degenerate scion of a noble stock. 
Richard II., have no meaner tombs than better-deserving 
monarchs. A marble urn, erected by Charles II., suffices to 


307 


Westminster: The Abbey. 

record the interment of the supposed bones of Edward V. and 
his brother Richard of York. The shrewd founder of the Tudor 
line rests in one tomb with his consort, the Rose of York; his 
famous grand-daughter shares her canopied altar-tomb with her 
sister and predecessor; while not far from the grave of Elizabeth 
and Mary is that of the former’s thorn in life, Mary of Scotland. 
One may stand by the tomb of one of the wives of Henry VIII., 
and of his son by Jane Seymour, Edward VI. ; and out of seven 
queens-consort, not counting Anne of Cleves, the aforesaid wife 
of the eighth Henry, Westminster Abbey shelters the remains 
of Eleanor of Castile, the queen of many crosses; Philippa of 
Hainault, of Nevill’s Cross renown; Anne of Bohemia, and 
Elizabeth of York. Charles II. lies here, William III. and Queen 
Mary, Queen Anne, George II., and Queen Caroline. The choir, 
the transept, and the nave, also contain a large number of 
memorials—many specimens of sculpture in questionable taste, 
by the side of some of the first works of Flaxman, Chantrey, 
Nollekens, Bacon, Westmacott, Gibson, Behnes and others. 

Poets’ Corner, occupying about half of the south transept, is 
famous for the busts and monuments of eminent men there 
placed—including Chaucer, Spenser, Shakespeare, Drayton, Ben 
Jonson, Milton, Butler, Davenant, Cowley, Dryden, Prior, Rowe, 
Gay, Addison, Thomson,' Goldsmith, Gray, Mason, Sheridan, 
Southey, Campbell, Grote, Thirlwall and Macaulay. William 
Makepeace Thackeray does not lie here, but at Kensal Green, 
though his bust is placed next to the statue of Joseph Addison. 
On the 14th June, 1870, Charles Dickens was interred here. 
His grave is situated at the foot of the coffin of Handel, and at 
the head of that of Sheridan. Close by lie Dr. Johnson and 
David Garrick, while near them lies Thomas Campbell. Shake¬ 
speare’s monument is not far from the foot of Dickens’s grave ; 
Goldsmith’s is on the left. A bust of the poet Longfellow 
is at hand ; and a memorial tablet to Robert Browning. 

The most noticeable monuments in the nave are erected to 
great statesmen, to naval commanders, to former deans of 


308 London of To-Day. 

Westminster, and to England’s great Indian heroes. The in* 
scriptions on the memorials of the last-named are simple enough. 
That on the grave of Clyde briefly records his “fifty years 
of arduous service.” On Outram’s monument is a bas-relief of 
the memorable scene in which he met Havelock at Delhi, and 
resigning to him the command, nobly served as a volunteer under 
his military inferior. On Pollock’s grave is the appropriate text, 
“ O God, Thou strength of my health, Thou hast covered my 
head in the day of battle.” Under the bust of Lawrence are 
carved the striking words, “ He feared man so little because he 
feared God so much.” In the north transept, against those of 
George Canning and Earl Canning, and not far from that of Lord 
Beaconsfield, has been placed a monument to Lord Stratford de 
Redcliffe, “for fifty years the honoured representative of his 
Sovereign in Turkey and other foreign countries.” The tomb of 
Newton, one of the most beautiful in the Abbey, is well worth 
studying. The monument is by Rysbraeck. Over it is a celestial 
globe, on which is marked the course of the comet of 1680. 
Leaning on this is the figure of Astronomy, who has closed her 
book, as though, for the time, her labours were over. The very 
ingenious bas-relief below expresses in allegory the various 
spheres of Newton’s labours. At the right three lovely little 
genii are minting money, to indicate Newton’s services to the 
currency; near them, a boy looking through a prism symbolizes 
the discoveries of Newton respecting the laws of light; a fifth is 
weighing the sun on a steelyard against Mercury, Mars, Venus, 
the Earth, Jupiter and Saturn, which very strikingly shadows 
forth the discovery of the laws of gravitation ; at the extreme 
left, tw r o other genii reverently tend an aloe, the emblem of 
immortal fame. Over the bas-relief reclines the fine statue of the 
great discoverer, whose elbow leans on four volumes indicative 
of Divinity, Optics and Astronomy and Mathematics. 

There is one monument in the nave at which Americans will 
look with interest. It is the tomb of the gallant and ill-fated 
Andre. Every American knows how he was arrested in disguise 


309 


Westminster: The Abbey . 

within the American lines in 1780, and for a moment lost his 
presence of mind and neglected to produce the safe-conduct 
of the traitor Benedict Arnold. He was sentenced to be hanged 
as a spy; and in spite of the deep sympathy which his fate 
excited, even among Americans, Washington did not think 
himself justified in relaxing the sentence. 

Over the western door, with arm outstretched and head thrown 
back, as though, in loud and sonorous utterance, he were still 
pouring forth to the Parliament of England the language of 
courage and resolution, stands William Pitt. History is record¬ 
ing his words of eloquence; Anarchy sits, like a chained giant, 
at his feet. And within a few yards of this fine monument is the 
no less interesting memorial of Charles James Fox—of Fox, 
who opposed Pitt’s public funeral; of Fox, whom he once 
charged with using the language of a man “ mad with desperation 
and disappointment.” 

Archdeacon Farrar advises the visitor, before beginning to 
study the Abbey in detail, to wander through the length and 
breadth of it without any attention to minor points, but with the 
single object of recognizing its exquisite beauty and magnificence. 
He will best understand its magnificence as a place of worship if 
he visit it on any Sunday afternoon, and see the choir and tran¬ 
septs crowded from end to end by perhaps three thousand people, 
among whom he will observe hundreds contented to stand through 
the whole of a long service. u Here the Puritan divines thundered 
against the errors of Rome; here the Romish preachers ana¬ 
thematized the apostasies of Luther. These walls have heard 
Cranmer as he preached before the boy-king on whom he rested 
the hopes of the Reformation, and the voice of Feckenham as he 
preached before Philip of Spain and Mary Tudor. They have 
heard South shooting the envenomed arrows of his wit against 
the Independents, and Baxter pleading the cause of toleration. 
They have heard Bishop Bonner chanting the Mass in his mitre, 
and Stephen Marshall preaching at the funeral of Pym. Here 
Romish bishop and Protestant dean, who cursed each other when 


310 London of To-Days 

living, lie side by side in death ; and Queen Elizabeth, who 
burned Papists, and Queen Mary, who burned Protestants, share 
one quiet grave, as they once bore the same uneasy crown.” 

The Cloisters and the Chapter House are worth seeing. This 
latter, during three centuries of English history, was the meet¬ 
ing-place of the House of Commons, and was built in 1250 by 
Henry III. When the House of Commons was first convened in 
the Parliament of 1265—called by Earl Simon de Montfort, after 
the battle of Lewes, summoning two knights from every shire, 
two citizens from every city, and two burgesses from every 
borough—these first sat in Westminster Hall, side by side with 
the earls and barons, the bishops and abbots, who constituted 
the House of Lords. But from and after 1282, with a view to 
separate acts of self-taxation, the different estates of the realm 
were assembled in places apart from each other. The Commons 
were then provided with temporary accommodation in West¬ 
minster Abbey, for the convenience of being near the other 
members of the king’s parliament in Westminster Palace and 
Hall. They sometimes used to sit in the refectory of the ancient 
monastery, now destroyed; but at other times in the Chapter 
House, as might best suit the occasions of the abbot and his 
monks. Upon this tenure of good will and custom, as it appears, 
did the representatives elect of the people continue nearly 300 
years to occupy the quarters assigned to them, probably at the 
king’s request, in the precincts of the Abbey. But, on the dis¬ 
solution of the ancient monastery in 1540, the Chapter House 
passed into possession of the Crown. From that time the Dean 
and Chapter held their meetings in the Jerusalem Chamber, the 
Chapter House becoming a depository of public records. In 
1865, after the removal of the records to the Rolls House, on the 
eight-hundredth anniversary of the foundation of the Chapter and 
the six-hundredth anniversary of the House of Commons, its 
restoration was undertaken by Sir Gilbert Scott, at the. request 
of the Societ} T of Antiquaries. 

Among the interesting features of Westminster Abbey the 


Westminster: The Abbey . 311 

Coronation Chair has always been popular. Many years ago an 
inscription in Latin was attached to it stating that the stone was 
the pillow on which Jacob rested his head at Bethel; and the 
legend went on to say that.it was carried from Palestine to Egypt, 
and thence to Spain. From Spain it was said to have been 
conveyed to the Hill of Tara, in Ireland. In the year 1851, in 
order to meet the convenience of the visitors to the Great 
Exhibition held in London, the head guide of the Abbey wrote 
on a label a notice to the effect that the stone had been used at 
the coronation of the ancient kings of Scotland and Ireland ; but 
he omitted all reference to the legend relating to Jacob’s pillow, 
whilst retaining the closing part referring to Ireland. The label 
having become dusty and dirty, the guide, who had considerable 
antiquarian knowledge, wrote on the back simply the historical 
fact with regard to Scotland, and ignored the legend entirely. 
The present Dean of Westminster (Dr. Bradley) has stated that 
geologists have conclusively shown that the chair is of Scotch 
limestone, and that no stone of the kind is to be found in Pales¬ 
tine or Egypt. He has, however, altered the inscription, setting 
forth the curious legend of its travels in the Holy Land, as distinct 
from the authenticated history of the stone. 

Westminster Abbey is a collegiate church (the famous West¬ 
minster School, the nursery of so many of England’s foremost 
men, is an appendage of it), with a Dean and Chapter, which 
possess a considerable authority over the adjoining district, and a 
revenue of about ,£30,000 per annum. The Abbey may be con¬ 
sidered as sub-divided into chapels; but in the present day 
divine service (at 7.45, 10, and 3) is performed only in a large 
enclosed space near the eastern extremity of the building—except 
on Sunday evenings during a portion of the year, when service is 
performed in the nave, in a similar way to the Sunday even¬ 
ing services under the dome of St. Paul’s. This evening service, 
at 7 o’clock, is very striking in effect. There are usually a 
considerable number of strangers present at the services, particu¬ 
larly at that on Sunday evenings. The entrance chiefly used is 


312 


London of To-Day. 

that at Poets’ Corner, nearly opposite the royal entrance to the 
Houses of Parliament; but on Sunday evenings the great western 
entrance is used. There is admittance every weekday from 
9 to 6 free to the chief parts of the building (except during the 
winter months, when the Abbey is closed at 4); and to other 
parts on payment of a fee of 6 d. 

Westminster Hospital and the adjacent Sessions House stand 
upon the site of the ancient Sanctuary of Westminster, the only 
one of the old-time “ sanctuaries ” of London of which the name 
still exists. The right of sanctuary, or protection of criminals 
and debtors from arrest, was retained by Westminster after the 
Dissolution of Monasteries in 1540; and the privilege (which 
was not abolished until James I., in 1623) caused the houses 
within the precinct to be let for high rents. A church once 
standing here was removed in 1750, to give place to a Market 
House, which was pulled down fifty years later to make way for 
the present Sessions House—a mean-looking building, out of 
character with the surrounding edifices. The parish church of 
St. Margaret, opposite, dates from the time of Edward I., but was 
rebuilt in Edward IV.’s reign. It has been for many years the 
church of the House of Commons, and in this connection many 
historical reminiscences belong to it. 

Incidentally, we may remark that Lambeth Palace is not far 
from Westminster. Crossing the bridge, and taking the first 
turning to the right, it may be reached in ten minutes. Lambeth 
Palace has been a residence of the archbishops of Canterbury 
for more than six centuries. The chapel dates from 1244-70; 
the Lollards’ Tower from 1434-35. 


Parliament Street to Pall Mall. 


313 


Chapter XXXII. 

PARLIAMENT STREET TO PALL MALL. 

r 'TWO streets running in parallel lines lead from Westminster 
to Whitehall. One of these streets, King Street, is 
narrow, dark and gloomy; and probably will soon cease to be. 
In it lived Edmund Spenser and Oliver Cromwell; and through 
it passed Elizabeth, Charles and the Protector, whenever their 
presence was required in either House of Parliament. The street 
was large enough for the royal processions and parliament men of 
those days, but it became inconveniently narrow when the traffic 
of the Metropolis extended to this point. So Parliament Street 
was built, which is now become one of the most crowded 
thoroughfares of western London. After passing through it in 
the direction of Charing Cross, you emerge into a broader way, 
which is named Whitehall, after the palace which formerly stood 
midway between Westminster and the Strand. “ The whole 
district,” writes the gossiping author of “ The Town,” “ contain¬ 
ing all that collection of streets and houses which extend from 
Scotland Yard to Parliament Street, and from the river-side to 
St. James’s Park, and which is still known by the general appella¬ 
tion of Whitehall, was formerly occupied by a sumptuous palace 
and its appurtenances, the only relics of which, perhaps the 
noblest specimen, is the beautiful edifice built by Inigo Jones, 
and retaining its old name of the Banqueting House.” A recent 
writer calls it a singularly over-rated building. But with its archi¬ 
tectural merits we have no concern. Suffice it to say that, except 
for its interesting history, it would present fewer attractions to 
most persons than other public buildings in the vicinity. 

On the west side of Whitehall, we first notice the principal 
Government Offices, those nearest King Street forming one grand 

24 


3H 


London of To-Day. 

block, with a frontage to St. James’s Park. In this handsome 
range of buildings are located the India, Colonial and Foreign 
Offices. At the northern extremity lies Downing Street, an old- 
fashioned street, in which, on the north side, are the official resi¬ 
dence of the Prime Minister for the time being and the Privy 
Council Office. The Exchequer Office, Treasury, Education 
Department and Home Office front on Parliament Street. 

The Foreign Office is, of all the public offices, the one most 
worth seeing. There, meetings of the Cabinet are sometimes 
held, and such International Conferences in which Great Britain 
takes a part as may be appointed to be held in London. 
The principal apartments of the Foreign Office are very fine. 
The public are admitted to see them on application between 
2 and 5. 

On the east side of Whitehall, opposite these offices, is the 
mansion of the Duke of Buccleuch. In Whitehall Gardens, 
adjoining it, Lord Beaconsfield lived for a short time towards 
the latter part of his life. Dover House, now used as a public 
office (formerly York House, when tenanted by the Duke of 
York), built in 1774, is the building, with low dome over the 
entrance-way, next the edifice called the Horse Guards. Here 
for upwards of a century the Commander-in-Chief directed the 
affairs of the army. The building is still utilized for military 
purposes, though the Commander-in-Chief and his staff are now 
located at the War Office in Pall Mall. Mounted sentries, 
belonging to one of the three regiments of the Household 
Cavalry, are on duty at the principal gateway facing Whitehall, 
from 10 till 4. On the Horse Guards’ Parade, in the rear, 
military reviews occasionally take place in the presence of 
members of the Royal Family. There are some cannon here, 
trophies of the Peninsular campaign of the Duke of Wellington. 

Next the Horse Guards is the Admiralty, where the principal 
affairs of the navy are conducted. The famous reprobate, 
Villiers Duke of Buckingham, the second of that name, was 
born in Wallingford House, which occupied the site of the 


Parliament Street to Pall Mall. 


315 


present Admiralty. “ From the roof,” says Pennant, “ the pious 
Usher, Archbishop of Armagh, then living here with the Countess 
of Peterborough, was prevailed upon to take the sight of his 
beloved master, Charles I., when brought on the scaffold before 
Whitehall. He sank at the horror of the sight and was carried 
in a swoon to his apartment.” Wallingford House was often 
used by Cromwell and others in their consultations. The 
Admiralty Office is not a handsome structure ; its western front 
is, on the whole, the most pleasing part of it, notwithstanding 
the screen on the Whitehall side, which has been praised as a 
good example of the work of one of the brothers Adam, of 
considerable reputation as architects in the early part of the 
century. 

Whitehall Palace was the abode of a series of English sove¬ 
reigns, beginning with Henry VIII., who took it from Wolsey, 
the cardinal, and terminating with James II., at whose downfall 
it was destroyed by fire. The present Banqueting House, con¬ 
verted into a chapel by George I., and restored in 1829 and 
1837, alone remains to mark the site of the once famous palace 
of the Tudor and Stuart sovereigns. 

The Chapel Royal is closed as a place of worship, and has 
been handed over to the United Service Institution. Rubens is 
said to have painted the ceiling. The chief historical events con¬ 
nected with the present structure are the marriage of Charles I. 
and Henrietta Maria; the death of Charles I., who passed to 
execution through a passage in the wall, and was beheaded 
beneath its windows; and the restoration of Charles II. The 
royal alms were distributed here annually to deserving poor and 
aged persons, recommended by the metropolitan clergy, on 
Thursday in Holy Week. This ceremony was one of the few 
remaining relics of the times when the sovereign was Roman 
Catholic, and derived its origin from the washing of the feet of 
the poor, in commemoration of the Saviour’s act of grace and 
charity in washing His disciples’ feet previous to His Crucifixion. 
The last of the English sovereigns who performed the ceremony 


316 London of To-Day. 

of “ washing the feet” in person was James II. After his day 
the duty was for a time relegated to the kings lord high almoner. 
At the accession of the first of the Hanoverian sovereigns some 
changes were made in the ancient custom ; and in George III.’s 
reign (or, possibly, in the reign before) it was abolished, an 
increase in the royal bounties being substituted for the more 
imposing but less rational act of charity aforetime publicly done 
by the king. The Sovereign’s Easter bounties, designated the 
“ Royal Maundy,” are distributed to aged men and women, the 
number of each sex corresponding with the age of the reigning 
Sovereign. 

The Royal United Service Institution, a military and naval 
museum of interest, open free to the public, will, as we have said, 
be found removed from its old quarters in the rear, to what till 
recently was the Chapel Royal. Milton, when he was secretary to 
Cromwell lodged for a time in Scotland Yard. At the east end of 
Scotland Yard is the central office of the Metropolitan Fire Brigade. 
This part of London, has been, lately, almost entirely rebuilt. 
Spring Gardens, opposite, was originally a place of public enter¬ 
tainment ; it is now occupied principally by the Admiralty and 
other offices. The statue of Charles I., fronting Whitehall, stands 
on the site of the ancient cross which once marked the centre of 
the village of Charing. The pedestal of the statue is the work 
of Grinling Gibbons. On this spot, before it was erected, the 
regicides, so-called, were executed in a barbarous manner; and 
here for many years stood one of the pillories in which criminals 
and others used to suffer torture, and the infamy of public 
exposure. 

On the north side of Trafalgar Square, which faces us, is the 
National Gallery. The priceless collection of pictures here 
brought together originated in 1824 (during the administration of 
the Earl of Liverpool) in the purchase of thirty-eight pictures 
from Mr. Angerstein with a parliamentary grant of money. In 
1826 the collection was increased by a liberal donation of sixteen 
pictures by Sir George Beaumont; and in 1831 by a valuable 


Parliament Street to Pall Mall. 


317 


bequest of thirty-five pictures from the Rev. W. H. Carr. Other 
gifts and bequests were made from time to time by William IV., 
Lord Farnborough, R. Simmons, Robert Vernon, Turner the 
painter, Lord Colborne, Wynn Ellis, and by the nation at large. 
Of the entire number of works, more than one-third have been 
purchased by parliamentary grants amounting in the aggregate 
to about ^400,000. The National Gallery was in 1887 com¬ 
pletely reorganized. The Italian Masters are now for the first 
time arranged by schools, with such precision as the nature of 
the case permits ; the Dutch, Flemish and Early German pic¬ 
tures are better hung than ever before; and the three great English 
portrait painters—Reynolds, Gainsborough and Romney—have 
a room to themselves and may be studied in their perfection; 
the fine Hogarths are placed in one gallery; and the French 
pictures also. The effect is to bring home to every intelligent 
visitor the immense value and importance of the English National 
Gallery among the public collections of Europe. 

It is open to the public on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays 
and Saturdays (except in the month of October)—from 10 till 5 
in the winter months ; from 10 till 6 in summer. 

Cockspur Street unites Whitehall with Pall Mall on the south 
side of Trafalgar Square. It presents no very striking feature 
save on its right side, which is occupied by the Union Club¬ 
house. An equestrian statue of George III., by M. C. Wyatt, 
occupies the ground where Cockspur Street and Pall Mall East 
join. In Suffolk Street, a quiet thoroughfare leading to the 
Haymarket, lived Miss Vanhomrigh, who died for love of Swift. 
The famous Calves’ Head Club (in ridicule, it is said, of the 
memory of Charles I.) was held at a tavern here. It is perhaps 
unnecessary to say that the “ street ” of this, and of the Swift, 
period exists now only in name. At the corner is the house of 
the United University Club, one of the oldest of London clubs. 

A few yards westward the Haymarket leads to Regent Street 
and Piccadilly. On the east side of it is the Haymarket Theatre 
which has a history going back more than a century. The 


318 London of To-Day. 

present building, as regards its interior at least, was constructed 
by the Bancrofts (the late lessees) in 1880. This theatre has 
a well-earned reputation for comedy, to which, in general, it 
restricts itself. The acting has for several years been of a supe¬ 
rior character, and the pieces are mounted with much care an$l 
elaboration. At the west corner of the Haymarket is Her 
Majesty’s Theatre, an edifice of comparatively recent date, having 
been built, 1876-77, on the site of the older theatre destroyed by 
fire. Originally the only Italian Opera House in London, and 
afterwards the King’s, Her Majesty’s, theatre was the aristocratic 
play-house of the fashionable quarter. Of late years its doors 
have not been so frequently opened as formerly. 

We are now come to Pall Mall, one of the famous thoroughfares 
of London, deriving its present prestige from its club-houses. It 
is the resort of representative Englishmen of all classes and 
most professions. Every political celebrity belongs to one or 
other of these associations—either to the Carlton, the Reform, 
the Junior Carlton or the Conservative. The Army and 
Navy and the United Service Clubs embrace all the men 
illustrious in arms ; while the Church and learning are repre¬ 
sented by the Athenaeum and the Oxford and Cambridge. 
Fond as London is of Gothic architecture, that style has no re¬ 
presentative in Pall Mall. Here everything is classical, although 
the degree to which the classical architecture is adhered to differs 
widely between the chaste Italian of the Reform and the florid 
display of its next-door neighbour, the Carlton. The one blot of 
the street is the property of the nation. The War Office is alto¬ 
gether out of keeping with the clubs upon the same and opposite 
sides of the way. The building is already doomed, and some day 
another more worthy of its surroundings will rise in its place. 
At the south-east corner of Pall Mall and Carlton Place (the 
open space where stands the Duke of York’s column) is the 
Senior United Service Club, erected in 1826; members may not 
hold rank under that of major in the army, or commander in the 
navy. The Athenaeum, at the opposite corner, was opened in 


Parliament Street to Pall Mall. 


319 


1830. Membership is limited to individuals known for their 
literary or scientific attainments, artists of eminence, or gentle¬ 
men distinguished as patrons of literature, science and art. The 
Travellers’ Club-house, built in 1831, comes next the Athenaeum ; 
foreign travel is a necessary qualification for membership. The 
Reform Club adjoins this. It was erected in 1839. There is a 
large number of members, all of whom are supposed to be of 
Liberal politics. The Carlton, the most splendid of all the club¬ 
houses, is the headquarters of the Tory or Conservative party. 
It comes next the palatial mansion of the rival faction. The 
Oxford and Cambridge Club-house, built in 1838, follows next in 
order (with the War Office intervening—in the courtyard of which 
stands a statue of Sidney Herbert, a former Secretary of War), 
with the Guards’and another Club-house occupying the principal 
part of the ground between it and the Prince of Wales’s residence. 
The Marlborough Club, the membership of which is restricted to 
a few persons of social prominence, stands opposite. The Army 
and Navy Club-house, built 1847-50, and reserved exclusively for 
the use of officers of the military and naval services, is at the 
corner of Pall Mall and George Street, St. James’s Square, 
fronting the War Department. At the opposite corner is the 
Junior Carlton Club-house, members of which are in alliance 
with the Conservative party. At No. 14, St. James’s Square, 
near at hand, is the East India United Service Club-house; 
at No. 11, the Wyndham; at No. 12, the London Library; and at 
No. 10, the Salisbury Club-house. At No. 21 George III. was 
born. Returning to Pall Mall, in the direction of Waterloo Place, 
denoted by the memorial to the Guards who fell in the Crimean 
War, we have the Wanderers’ Club-house at the north-east 
corner. 

There are in all more than eighty clubs frequented by persons 
of the higher class in the Metropolis. A few of these establish¬ 
ments, such as White’s, Brooks’s, Boodle’s and Arthur’s, in St. 
James’s Street (White’s can show a record of more than a 
century) are of ancient date ; but their present arrangements and 


320 


London of To-Day. 


constitution are of modern origin. The accommodation they 
afford to gentlemen only occasionally visiting town, and to others 
desirous of enjoying the conveniences of a large establishment at 
a moderate expense, and of meeting with a great variety of 
society, has made them popular among the upper classes. The 
principal club-houses, as we have already seen in our walk 
through Pall Mall, are edifices of a sumptuous character. Each 
club consists of a limited number of members, varying from 400 
to 2,000, admitted by ballot and paying a certain sum at entrance, 
from five to forty guineas, and an annual subscription varying 
from five to twenty guineas. The club-houses generally are 
fitted up with some show of grandeur, have excellent libraries, 
take in the leading publications, and provide dinners, coffee, 
wines, etc., at reasonable prices. Some of the clubs are, as we 
have indicated, avowedly of a political character, and others are 
devoted exclusively to certain classes. Among the latter might 
be named the Garrick (in Garrick Street, Covent Garden), a 
theatrical and literary club; the Guards’, for present and past 
officers of the Guards; the Savage, for persons connected with 
literature, the arts, drama or science ; the Royal Thames Yacht 
Club, for yacht-owners and gentlemen; the Bachelors’ Club, 
ostensibly for gentlemen in their bachelorhood, who possess the 
advantage of a well-filled purse. In point of fact, a club is to be 
found somewhere in London suitable to all sorts and conditions 
of men, from working-men to peers. 


Regent Street and Piccadilly . 


321 


Chapter XXXIII. 

REGENT STREET AND PICCADILLY. 

TD EGENT STREET maintains its long-established supre- 
macy as one of the great show-places of fashionable London. 
It is a street of comparatively modern date, being one of the many 
metropolitan improvements effected by Mr. Nash (the architect 
of several important works) in the second decade of the century. 
At that time it was looked upon as the most noteworthy feature 
of the west end of the town, and it is still its most imposing 
public thoroughfare, if not from an architectural point of view, 
from the attractiveness and splendour of its shops. It forms a 
continuation of Waterloo Place, crossing Piccadilly Circus and 
terminating at Langham Place. The object of the architect was 
to make one grand street affording communication between St. 
James’s Park, in the south district, and Regent’s Park, in the 
north. In part he succeeded, as the continuity of design which 
forms the chief feature of Regent Street plainly testifies. 

With the exception of St James’s Hall and Hanover Chapel, 
there are no public buildings in Regent Street. Its main attrac¬ 
tion is its gaiety. During the Season—and, indeed, at all seasons 
of the year (except, perhaps, in the early autumn, when many 
Londoners are out of town)—it is thronged with the “ swells,” 
and grand dames of London, shopping, or making pretence to 
shop. Its interest, beyond the common one of looking at and 
criticising the passers-by, lies in its shop-windows, which display 
the choicest, prettiest and most fashionable things to be found 
in London. Some of the shops in Regent Street are of world 
known fame ; take, for example, those of Lewis & Allenby, 
Farmer & Rogers, Liberty,—each firm in its particular line 


322 


London of To-Day. 


unrivalled. If a lady does pay a little more for a dress or a piece 
of millinery in Regent Street than elsewhere, she may be sure 
that what she purchases represents the latest fashion from Paris, 
in that line of drapery or millinery. Of some of its shops we 
have something to say later on. We have already referred to 
its restaurants in an earlier chapter. 

Piccadilly is one of the pleasantest of London highways. That 
part of it which faces the Green Park is elegant, expensive and 
aristocratic; the other portion, which extends to the Circus, 
assumes a business aspect, and belongs to trade. But even that 
part of Piccadilly (as, indeed, was the site of the present Regent 
Street) which is now most fashionable, was but an ignoble 
thoroughfare but a hundred years ago. Thereabouts a great 
many taverns stood whose fame was none of the best. On 
review days, says a contemporary writer, the soldiers from the 
neighbouring barracks sat in front of the houses on wooden 
benches whilst their hair was being powdered and their pig-tails 
tied up. During this interesting operation they laughed and 
joked with the maid-servants who passed that way. The result 
was that the quarter was avoided by the respectable classes. 
Devonshire House (the residence of the Duke of Devonshire, at 
the corner of Berkeley Street), remained for some time, in the 
eighteenth century, the boundary of the buildings in Piccadilly, 
though farther on, by Hyde Park Corner, there were a few habit¬ 
ations. In aristocratic Mayfair there stood a chapel where a 
certain Dr. Keith, of infamous notoriety, performed the marriage 
service for couples who sought a clandestine union; and while 
the rich availed themselves of this provision, persons in humbler 
life found a similar place open to them in the Fleet Prison. 
Parliament stopped these scandals in 1753. Even so late as the 
closing years of the last century, the Prince of Wales (afterwards 
George IV.) and his brother the Duke of York, when very young 
men, were stopped one night in a hackney coach and robbed on 
Hay Hill, Berkeley Square, within view of the Duke of Devon¬ 
shire’s mansion. 


323 


Regent Street and Piccadilly. 

A short distance westward from Piccadilly Circus is the south 
entrance to St. James’s Hall. Opposite is the Royal School of 
Mines and Museum of Practical Geology, the entrance of which 
is in Jermyn Street. On the same side of the street is St. 
James’s Church, built by Wren in 1684; several prominent men 
have, in their day, been rectors of this church. Sackville Street 
leads to Savile Row, a quiet thoroughfare in which are one or 
two minor club-houses and the rooms of the Royal Geographical 
Society. The Albany, a dingy-looking, secluded building, with 
a courtyard in front (between Nos. 46 and 47 Piccadilly), consists 
of suites of chambers which are rented by wealthy single gentle¬ 
men. Many famous men once occupied rooms here: Lord 
Byron, George Canning, Bulwer Lytton, Lord Macaulay, etc. 
Some part of the “ History of England ” was written by Macaulay 
here. On the south side of Piccadilly, near St. James’s Church, 
is the Institute of Painters in Water Colours. 

At Burlington House, a few doors east of Bond Street, are the 
spacious galleries of the Royal Academy. These contain a valu¬ 
able collection of paintings, many of which have been bequeathed, 
the remainder being diploma works of Academicians (presented 
on their election), which may be viewed gratis. Annual exhi¬ 
bitions of the works of living artists take place in May, June 
and July, and of old Masters in January, February and March. 
Admission, from 8 till dusk, is. ; catalogues, is. Suites of 
apartments belonging to the six principal learned and scientific 
societies of Great Britain are also in this building—viz., the 
Royal Society, the Society of Antiquaries, the Linnaean, the Geo¬ 
logical, the Royal Astronomical and the Chemical Societies. 

The oldest of these learned bodies, having rooms on the eastern 
side of the quadrangle, is the Royal Society, which was incor¬ 
porated by royal charter more than two hundred years ago, and 
had for its first patron Charles II. He appears to have found in 
the experiments of the philosophers an agreeable change from 
the frivolities and dissipation of his court. The Society received 
from him as a gift the silver-gilt mace which still graces the table 


324 


London of To-Day. 

of the council-chamber at meetings. This illustrious body num¬ 
bers some 600 of the foremost scientific men of the day; and 
ever since its foundation it has been the adviser of the Govern¬ 
ment on matters of a scientific nature. The library comprises 
nearly 35,000 volumes, and is in all respects one of the most 
complete scientific libraries in existence. 

On the side of the quadrangle facing the Royal Society are 
the apartments belonging to the Antiquaries, the next to the 
Royal Society in point of age. It was, indeed, originally estab¬ 
lished in 1572; but it appears to have subsequently dissolved. 
It was not till 1751 that it was incorporated by charter; and 
about thirty years afterwards it was established in free quarters 
at Somerset House, in the Strand, where it remained till its 
removal to the present suite of rooms in Burlington House. 

The suite devoted to the Geological Society lies between the 
Royal Society and Piccadilly, thus forming the south-eastern 
corner of the block. Besides a library, meeting-room, etc., it 
comprises a small museum. The Geological Society was estab¬ 
lished in 1807. The Chemical Society is located in the front 
of the building, between the corner occupied by the geologists 
and the gateway. Belonging to the Society is a well-selected 
chemical library : it is the youngest of the six, and was in¬ 
corporated as recently as the year 1848, and numbers now 500 
members. 

The whole of the western front of the building is occupied by 
the Linnsean Society,—a body which took its rise as an offshoot 
of the Royal Society in 1788. It has a valuable library and col¬ 
lection of natural objects, for the latter of which a well-appointed 
herbarium has been provided. The rooms of the Royal Astro¬ 
nomical Society lie between the apartments of the Linnaean 
Society in front and the Antiquaries behind, on the western side 
of the quadrangle. The University of London occupies a hand¬ 
some building in rear of the Royal Academy, fronting on Bur¬ 
lington Gardens. It was founded in 1836 as an examining body, 
and for the purpose of conferring degrees in Arts, Science, Law, 


Regent Street and Piccadilly. 325 

Medicine and Music. The University is supported by parlia¬ 
mentary, votes, which are in great part repaid by fees received 
from candidates for degrees. It is represented in the House of 
Commons by one member. 

The. Burlington Arcade, a fashionable lounging-place for the 
“ swells ” of the town and their admirers, is next Burlington 
House. The Egyptian Hall, on the opposite side of Piccadilly, 
is a popular place of exhibition and entertainment. Among 
numerous exhibitions that have taken place here, that of General 
Tom Thumb in 1844 was, perhaps, the most famous of its day ; 
among entertainments, Albert Smith’s “ Ascent of Mont Blanc,” 
originating eight or nine years later. Crossing Bond Street, we 
have Albemarle Street on the right, where is the Royal Institu¬ 
tion, founded in 1799 to promote scientific and literary research, 
etc. Its lectures in the winter season are well attended by the 
public. There are one or two clubs of some note in this street, 
as well as comfortable private hotels patronized by the “ upper 
ten.” In Arlington Street have lived some notable persons, 
including Lady Mary Wortley Montagu and Sir Robert Walpole. 
Opposite is the White Horse Cellar, the namesake of a once 
famous landmark of London in the west. It was a point of some 
interest in the beginning of the century. Hither used to come the 
loungers of the clubs and others to watch the mail-coaches 
drive down Piccadilly e?i route to Bath, Bristol, Exeter, Plymouth 
and other towns in the west of England. On the King’s birth¬ 
day the scene was of exceptional interest. The horses were be¬ 
decked with gay rosettes and flowers, and coachmen and guards 
wore their new uniforms of scarlet laced with gold. The 
exterior of the Old White Horse Cellar was dressed with tiny 
oil-lamps of many colours, arranged in tasty lines, a pretty 
form of illumination, which fifty years ago was common enough 
in London. In the spring and summer four-horse coaches run 
daily from the White Horse Cellar to places within easy reach 
of London, as Beckenham, Box Hill, Dorking, Guildford, High 
Wycombe, Hampton Court, Windsor and Brighton. These 


326 


London of To-Day. 


coaches generally start about io. In Dover Street are some 
excellent private hotels ; Brown’s, the best of its class in London. 
From St. James’s Street to Hyde Park Corner the houses 
are mostly residences of the nobility and wealthy gentry. 
We have already mentioned the Duke of Devonshire’s town 
residence, Devonshire House, a large mansion with a screen in 
front, at the corner of Berkeley Street. It has no particular 
architectural character, but successive wealthy owners have 
collected within it valuable pictures, books, gems and treasures 
of various kinds. It was in the ball-room here, in presence of 
the Queen and Royal Family, that an amateur performance was 
given by Bulwer Lytton, Charles Dickens and other leading 
literary men, on behalf of the “ Guild of Literature,” which sub¬ 
sequently languished and came to nought. At the corner 
of Stratton Street is the mansion of Baroness Burdett-Coutts, 
and at No. 82 is Bath House, that of Lord Ashburton. The 
Duke of Cambridge lives at 136 ; Baron Rothschild at 148. 

The present Duke of Wellington resides at Apsley House, the 
mansion with gates in front, next Hyde Park, so closely associated 
with the memory of the first Duke. The shell of the house, of 
brick, is old ; but stone frontages, enlargements and decorations, 
were afterwards made. The principal room facing Hyde Park, 
with seven windows, is that in which the Great Duke held the 
celebrated Waterloo Banquet, on the 18th of June in every year, 
from 1816 to 1852. The windows were blocked up with bullet¬ 
proof iron blinds from 1831 to the day of his death in 1852 ; a 
rabble had shattered them during the early Reform excitement, 
an act which caused him intense chagrin, as he had hoped his 
great services to the country might have protected him from 
annoyance by the mob. 

From Piccadilly towards the north, and along the whole 
breadth of Hyde Park, is Park Lane, with its charming houses 
built in the villa style, not unlike, in some respects, to those of 
Brighton, with their irregular fantastic balconies, rotundas and 
verandahs. Here and there is a larger mansion; for example, 


Regent Street and Piccadilly. 


327 


Dorchester House, the splendid structure facing the south, be¬ 
longing to Mr. Holford. Formerly this street was Tyburn Lane, 
leading north-west to Tyburn Gate, the execution-ground of so 
many criminals in the last century. At the present day Park 
Lane and all the streets adjacent to it, are the headquarters of 
wealth and aristocracy—Upper Grosvenor Street, Grosvenor 
Square, Hertford Street, Curzon Street, Berkeley Square, etc. 

Lying to the south of Hyde Park are many squared and streets 
equally favoured by the fashionable world—Grosvenor Place, 
Belgrave Square, Eaton Square. Westward from Hyde Park 
lie Knightsbridge and Kensington, the parts of which nearest 
“ the Park,” covered with splendid houses, afford some idea 
of the luxury and wealth to be found in London. 

A short distance from the westernmost end of Hyde Park lies 
the South Kensington Museum and Natural History Museum and 
Royal Albert Hall. These are most easily reached from the 
central districts of London by omnibus, and from other parts of 
the town by the Underground District Railway, which has a 
station at South Kensington. Admission to the South Ken¬ 
sington Museum—Monday, Tuesday and Saturday, free, from 
10 a.m. to 10 p.m. (the galleries being lighted at night); Wed¬ 
nesday, Thursday and Friday (“students days”), 6 d., from 
10 a.m. till 4, 5 or 6 p.m., the hour of closing varying with the 
season of the year. This Museum, in which are collected the 
finest examples of art-workmanship to be found in England, is 
most popular and interesting. The Art collections and Loan 
collections, the Oriental courts, the sculptures and frescoes, and 
other special exhibitions arranged within the building, constitute 
one of the most varied, entertaining and instructive “ sights ” 
open to the public. Certainly no visitor should leave London 
without going to the South Kensington Museum. And being in its 
neighbourhood, he should not leave it without seeing the Natural 
History Museum, adjacent to the more important edifice. The 
Imperial and Colonial Institute is near at hand. 


328 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XXXIV. 

FROM ST. JAMES’S, BY WAY OF BOND STREET, TO 
OXFORD STREET. 

S T. JAMES’S STREET connects Piccadilly with Pall Mall. 

At its southern end is St. James’s Palace, an old and 
irregular red-brick structure, the chief interest of which centres 
in its history. Architecturally, it is the meanest of all the royal 
palaces. Marlborough House, the town residence of the Prince of 
Wales, stands eastward of it. Its most attractive exterior feature 
is the ancient gateway, a relic of Tudor times, facing St. James’s 
Street. The palace stands on the site of a hospital for lepers, 
dedicated to St. James, which continued from a very early period 
down to the reign of Henry VIII. That monarch took possession 
of it, as he did of many similar institutions, and it was pulled 
down, and “ a faire mansion,” called the Manor House, said to 
have been planned by Holbein, was built in its place. In the 
year King Henry married poor Anne Boleyn (1532), according to 
Leigh Hunt, he “ transferred into it his own bloated and corrupt 
body.” The initials of the king and that ill-fated queen are still 
to be traced on the chimney-piece of what was once the presence- 
chamber of the palace. When Whitehall was burned down in 
William III.’s reign, St. James’s became the real seat of royalty 
in London; and so it remained down to the reign of Her present 
Majesty. Even now, it is customary to speak of foreign ambas¬ 
sadors and ministers as being accredited to “the Court of St. 
James’s,” though the Queen herself seldom sets foot within its 
gates. The chief residential parts of the palace are occupied by 
Court officials. The State apartments are on the first floor, with 
windows facing the Park. The Levees of the Prince of Wales, 
acting on behalf of Her Majesty, are held here during the months 


329 


From St. James's to Oxford Street. 

of March, April and May. A “ colour guard ” of one of the 
regiments of the Brigade of Guards stationed in London mounts 
in the open quadrangle on the east side every day at a quarter 
to n a.m., when the regimental band plays for a quarter of an 
hour. 

Among the royal personages historically connected with St. 
James’s Palace, when it was the residence of the sovereign, may 
be mentioned Charles I., who spent here the last three days of 
his life. Queen Mary, of “ bloody ” memory ; Henry Prince of 
Wales, son of James 1 .; and Caroline, wife of George II.—these 
three died here. Charles II.; James II.’s son, surnamed the Old 
Pretender; and George IV. were born here. Queen Anne made 
it her chief palace when she came to the throne, as did Georges I. 
and II. Queen Victoria was married in the little chapel—which 
is open to visitors, on Sundays, at the time of divine service : 
the 12 o’clock service only by permit from the Lord Chamberlain 
As the accommodation is very limited, only few persons are 
admitted. 

In St. James’s Street we are once more in the region of the 
clubs. The first to the left is the Thatched House Club (origi¬ 
nally the Civil Service), taking its name from the Thatched 
House Tavern, in one of the rooms of which were hung the 
celebrated Kit-Kat pictures, portraits of members of the Kit-Kat 
Club. The Conservative Club-house, opened in 1845, stands 
next it. Arthur’s, an aristocratic club, so named from its founder, 
a keeper of White’s Chocolate House, who died in 1761, has its 
locale on the same side of the street, at No. 69. I11 King Street 

a thoroughfare opposite, leading to St. James’s Square, is St. 
James’s Theatre. Almost adjoining it are Willis’s Rooms, once 
a noted house for public dinners, balls and meetings, originally 
known as Almack’s, which in their day were the most fashionable 
and exclusive assembly-rooms in the Metropolis. The town 
owed Almack’s, like Lord’s, to the enterprise of a Scotchman, 
McCall. For some reason satisfactory doubtless to himself 
McCall, by a transposition of its syllables, altered his name to 

25 


330 


London of To-Day. 

Almack when he took the rooms which are now known as 
Willis’s. In February 1775, Horace Walpole described the 
opening of the new rooms. They were “ very magnificent, but, 
empty,” as “half the town was ill of colds.” Advertising his 
project, Almack, who seems to have been a very singular person, 
declared that his room was “built with hot bricks and boiling 
water.” The subscription to Almack’s was ten guineas, for 
which sum you had a dance and a sufficient supper once every 
week for twelve weeks. Facing Willis’s Rooms are the well- 
known auction-rooms of Messrs. Christie, Manson, & Co., 
where, during the London Season, are disposed of daily the finest 
pictures and other works of art which thus change hands in the 
kingdom. At No. 3 in this street lived Louis Napoleon, after¬ 
wards Emperor of the French. Returning to St. James’s Street, 
we may take note of several other club-houses: the chief of 
these are Brooks’s, at No. 60, founded in 1764, and ever since 
then the headquarters of the Whig aristocracy; the New Uni¬ 
versity, for members of the universities; Boodle’s, at No. 28, of 
which Fox, Gibbon and other eminent men were the earliest 
members; the Devonshire Club, an offshoot of the Reform, 
on the left-hand side; and lastly, White’s, on the right-hand 
side (Nos. 36-37), one of the oldest and most famous of these in¬ 
stitutions, established so far back as 1736. It was previously to 
that time a chocolate house, which had been opened in 1698. 
Horace Walpole and George Selwyn were members of White’s. 
In 1814 the club entertained the Emperor of Russia and the 
King of Prussia at a banquet, and a few days later the Duke of 
Wellington. In Jermyn Street, close at hand, and in the streets 
leading therefrom, are some good private hotels and respectable 
lodging-houses, patronized by members of the clubs, officers in 
the army, and others. In Bury Street, one of those streets, lived 
Steele and Swift. 

Crossing Piccadilly, and keeping a little to the right, we come 
to Bond Street, which, for considerably more than half a century, 
has been the most fashionable and attractive street in London, 


331 


From St. James's to Oxford Street. 

It would be difficult to say when and how it earned its reputation, 
for it is narrow and inconvenient, not to say commonplace, 
in comparison with Regent Street and Piccadilly; but the fact, 
nevertheless, remains that Bond Street is the most favoured of 
all London ways by the aristocratic and wealthy. At times, in 
the London Season, it is blocked with carriages, and one can 
hardly find foothold on the pavement. It boasts several art 
galleries, the chief of which are those of Boussod-Valadon & 
Co., and the Fine Art Society; but its chief glory is its 
shops, which are rented by the princes of the trading world in 
jewellery, perfumery, millinery, haberdashery and so on. It 
has some few historical landmarks. At No. 41 (now in the occu¬ 
pation of Messrs. Agnew), died Laurence Sterne (March 18th, 
1768), the year after he left York, and came to London to publish 
the “ Sentimental Journey.” At No. 4 Lord Brougham lived for 
a time, and at No. 141 Lord Nelson. 


332 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XXXV. 

FROM THE MARBLE ARCH, THROUGH OXFORD 
STREET, TO HOLBORN. 

H ORACE WALPOLE incidentally remarks in one of his 
gossiping letters, “ There will be one street from London 
to Brentford, ay, and from London to every village ten miles 
round.” This prediction, made in 1791, has been fulfilled to the 
letter, if a street may be taken to mean a continuous main way 
flanked by houses. A person might start from Brentford, and 
passing along the southern main road by way of Hammersmith, 
Kensington, Knightsbridge and Piccadilly, reach the centre of 
London without the continuity of houses being broken. Similarly 
he might start from Shepherd’s Bush, and walking along the par¬ 
allel main road by way of Notting Hill, Bayswater, the northern 
side of Hyde Park and Oxford Street, get to the Royal Exchange 
without once stepping off the pavement. Oxford Street—about 
one mile and three-quarters in length—is the longest street of 
shops in London. It begins at the north end of Park Lane, near 
the Marble Arch, and, passing the north or upper end of Regent 
Street, and the south or lower end of Tottenham Court Road, 
there unites with New Oxford Street, which runs into Holborn, 
within the district of Bloomsbury. This is a sufficiently long 
walk, within sight of shops all the way ; but if the wayfarer be in 
the humour to prolong it, he might do so for another four or five 
miles, until, in fact, he finds himself in the Mile End Road, within 
the district of Whitechapel. Probably few native Londoners 
have ever engaged in this exercise of measuring the continuity of 
London’s principal lines of streets, but a stranger might be 
tempted to do so, with the view of beating the Londoner in his 
more intimate knowledge of the Metropolis. 



From the Marble Arch to Holborn. 333 

Oxford Street is long and broad enough to take in the popula¬ 
tion of a small town. It changes its character several times, 
according to the greater or less elegance of the quarter through 
which it runs. It is more pretentious westward of the Circus 
than when it gets beyond the region of Soho, though not so many 
years ago many most respectable middle-class families lived in 
that part. Farther east still, in Bloomsbury, in the beginning of 
the century the wealthiest people resided. Now the well-to-do 
middle classes have left the pleasant streets of their forefathers, 
which are a good deal better built and more handsome than most 
streets at the West End, and have gone to live in that quarter of 
fashion. Oxford Street when it reaches Tottenham Court Road 
becomes dingy and ill-looking, and does not recover its better 
appearance before it reaches Holborn. It has not much of a 
history, and there is little to engage the wayfarer's interest 
westward of the Circus if we except some of the squares, such as 
Portman and Manchester, lying on the north side. In Manchester 
Square is Hertford House, the residence of Sir Richard Wallace, 
which contains a very valuable collection of paintings. There 
are two or three princely mansions in Cavendish Square, and 
some of a less imposing character in Hanover Square, on the 
south side of Oxford Street. An equestrian statue of William 
Duke of Cumberland, “Butcher Cumberland,” otherwise known 
as the hero of Culloden, stands in the centre of the former and a 
bronze statue of Pitt, by Chantrey, in the centre of the latter. In 
George Street, within a few steps of Hanover Square, in a 
south direction, is the well-known Church of St. George. To be 
married at St. George’s, Hanover Square, by a bishop, with three 
or four clergymen “ assisting,” used to be the ambition of many 
a belle of the London Season ; but now the reputation of St. 
George’s as a church for “ swell ” marriages has been eclipsed 
by St. Paul’s, Knightsbridge, St. Peter’s, Eaton Square, and othei 
aristocratic places of worship farther west. In George Street 
the famous Lady Mary Wortley Montagu passed the last hours 
of her long life. 


334 


London of To-Day. 

At the junction of Oxford Street and Regent Street is Oxford 
Circus, a point at which the road traffic is greater than almost 
any other in London. Pursuing our way eastward, on the left 
side, we pass the Princess’s Theatre, in the days of Charles Kean 
famous for its Shakespearian revivals ; and on the right the Pan¬ 
theon, once a bazaar, but now a central depot for the extensive 
business of an enterprising firm of wine merchants. Dean Street, 
near at hand, leads to the district of Soho, which is now largely 
occupied by small tradesmen and lodging-house keepers, whose 
patrons are chiefly foreigners. These in considerable numbers 
make Soho their headquarters. The word “ Soho ” is stated to 
have been the battle-cry of the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth 
on the field of Sedgemoor; the “Square” was originally Mon¬ 
mouth Square, afterwards King’s Square, and finally Soho Square. 
Retracing our steps, and proceeding on our way through Oxford 
Street, we come to Tottenham Court Road, a broad thoroughfare 
leading to Camden Town, Kentish Town and Hampstead, and 
the northern suburbs. Opposite, running south, are Charing 
Cross Road and Shaftesbury Avenue, new thoroughfares of 
London. 

The British Museum is reached from Oxford Street a little 
farther eastward. This national institution, established in 1753, 
is an immense repository of books, MSS., statues, coins and 
other antiquities, specimens of animals and minerals, etc., and is, 
in most respects, one of the richest in Europe. It is principally 
deposited in buildings raised on the site of Montague House, for¬ 
merly the residence of the Duke of Montague, in Bloomsbury. 
The nucleus of the collection was purchased by the Government, 
from Sir Hans Sloane’s executors, for £ 20,000, and the Museum 
was first opened to the public in January 1759. But Montague 
House, though spacious as a private residence, having been 
found inadequate to the proper accommodation of the vast and 
continually increasing collections that belong to the Museum, 
a new quadrangular building, on a very extensive plan, was 
designed by Sir R. Smirke, and dedicated to the public use. 


From the Marble Arch to Holborn . 335 

The contents of the Museum at present include one of the finest 
libraries of printed books in the world; a most valuable collec¬ 
tion of MSS., Oriental antiquities, British and mediaeval antiqui¬ 
ties, and ethnological specimens ; Greek and Roman antiquities, 
the most complete series in existence ; coins and medals, prints 
and drawings, maps, and charts; and in the Print Room a mag¬ 
nificent collection of the finest engravings of all ages. 

The departments of Printed Books and MSS. is immensely 
wealthy in rare and valuable works. I11 1755 the Harleian MSS. 
were purchased, and the Cottonian Library was removed from 
Dean’s Yard, Westminster: in 1757 the Royal Library, founded 
by Henry VIII. out of the libraries of the suppressed monasteries, 
and enlarged by his different successors, was presented by 
George II. George III., in 1763, gave a valuable collection of 
pamphlets on the Civil War; and between 1806 and 1818 the 
Lansdowne, Hargrave and Burney MSS. were purchased at an 
expense of ^26,400. Various presents have been made from 
time to time ; the most valuable additions of late years having 
been the library of George III., collected at an expense of 
^200,000, and presented to the Museum by his successor; and the 
sumptuous collection of Mr. George Grenville, valued at ^60,000, 
and bequeathed by him to the nation. Modern English publica¬ 
tions are added, free of expense, in exercise of a privilege which 
the British Museum enjoys, in common with the universities, 
of receiving gratis a copy of every book entered at Stationers’ 
Hall. The curious in such things may find here the original 
editions of Caxton and Wynkyn de Worde, and copies of books 
that have been owned by Lord Bacon, Michael Angelo, Charles I., 
Katharine Parr, Ben Jonson, Martin Luther, John Milton, Isaac 
Newton and others. 

The Royal Library is rich in memorials of the Tudors and 
Stuarts. It contains a New Testament which belonged to Anne 
Boleyn ; the Greek Grammar of Edward VI.; Queen Mary’s 
copy of Bandello’s novels, which are said to have supplied 
Shakespeare with the plots of many of his plays; old almanacks 


336 


London of To-Day. 


on which Charles I. scribbled his name when Prince of Wales ; 
and a fine copy of the second edition of the “ Pilgrim’s Progress 
which belonged to Charles II. The collection of Bibles includes 
the Mazarine Bible, so called because the copy which first 
attracted notice in modern times was discovered in the library 
of the Cardinal of that name; the Elector of Saxony’s copy of 
Martin Luther’s translation of the Bible; Miles Coverdale’s 
Bible, dated 1530, the first printed in England; and Martin 
Luther's own copy of the German Bible. 

Two documents that were important in their results to England 
are also among the treasures of the Library. One of them is the 
Papal Bull in which Innocent III. accepts the kingdom of 
England from King John, and the other is the famous Magna 
Chart a. The latter is enclosed within a glass frame, and has a 
fragment of the seal hanging from it. Having once escaped 
destruction by fire in 1731, it was carefully extended upon coarse 
canvas ; but the ink has become very pale, and the writing is 
nearly illegible. Another historical document in the collection 
is the Bull of Leo X., conferring the title of “ Defender of the 
Faith ” on Henry VIII. ; and there is also a letter from Henry V. 
to the Bishop of Durham, dated February 10th, 1418. 

The great ornament of the manuscript collection is an ancient 
Greek copy of the Scriptures, which is supposed to have been 
made by a lady of Alexandria in the fourth or sixth centuries, 
and which was presented to Charles I. by the Patriarch of Con¬ 
stantinople. It is one of the two most ancient copies of the 
Scriptures in existence. The number of printed books in the 
Library now considerably exceeds a million ; the annual increase 
of books being not less than 20,000. Persons desiring to be 
admitted to the Reading Room for the purpose of literary re¬ 
search, must apply in writing to the Principal Librarian, specify¬ 
ing their profession or business, their place of abode, and the 
purpose for which they seek admission. Every such application 
must be made two days, at least, before admission is required, 
and must be accompanied by a "written recommendation from a 


From the Marble Arch to Holborn. 337 

householder or a person of known position, mentioning in full his 
or her name and address, and stating that he or she possesses a 
personal knowledge of the applicant, and of his or her intention 
to make proper use of the Reading Room. 

The Museum proper is abounding in interest; but we can only 
point out a few of its innumerable treasures. 

In the Anglo-Roman Gallery, one of the twelve departments 
into which the Museum is divided, may be seen the Roman works 
which have been dug up from time to time beneath modern 
London—fragments of mosaic pavements, lamps, weapons, amu' 
lets, urns, coins and beads, whose appearance and inscriptions 
indicate with certainty the presence of a settled Roman civiliza¬ 
tion on the banks of the Thames. In another gallery we pass to 
Greece and Rome, whose life is illustrated by military and 
domestic utensils; bejewelled, chased and enamelled ornaments ; 
bas-reliefs; coins and statuary. Thence we may enter Asia 
Minor and the Lycian cities, some most valuable ruins of which 
were removed to London by Sir Charles Fellowes between 1842 
and 1846. 

The Egyptian Gallery contains sarcophagi and monuments, 
tombs of the Ptolemies and Rameses, sculptured tablets and 
statues, funeral vases and pillars,—all crowded with hieroglyphics 
which still puzzle the archaeologist. A number of glass-cases in 
this department contain mummies of various ages, some dried to 
black crusts, and others quite lifelike; and along the walls are 
relics exhibiting the customs and usages of ancient Egypt,— 
ornaments, domestic utensils, official and priestly costumes, 
works of art, toilet articles, playthings, writing materials and 
trade implements. 

Between the British and Mediaeval Room and the Ethnological 
Department is a space filled with gold ornaments and gems, - 
cameos, intaglios and other precious ornaments ; and here is the 
famous Portland vase, which is considered one of the great 
treasures of the Museum. The Elgin Room contains the most 
valuable collection in the world of specimens of Greek art at its 


338 London of To-Day . 

best period, brought to England by the Earl of Elgin, and pur¬ 
chased by Parliament. They consist principally of sculptures 
from the Temple of the Parthenon, the Erechtheum, and the 
Temple of the Wingless Victory, all on the Acropolis of Athens. 
The Parthenon was built about 440 b.c. All the sculptural 
decorations were by Phidias. The celebrated series of bas- 
reliefs and sculptures brought from Nineveh by Mr. Layard, and 
the Assyrian antiquities -collected by Mr. Rassam, are also here. 
Considerations of space compel us, however, to refer the visitor 
to the various official guides which may be purchased in the 
entrance-hall, at prices varying from id. to 6 d., for a more par¬ 
ticular account of the countless treasures in the British Museum. 
It remains to be said that the public are admitted to view the 
collections on every week-day from Monday till Friday, from 
10 o’clock, and on Saturdays from 12 o’clock till the time of 
closing—as follows: Closed at dusk ; except on the evenings 
of Monday and Saturday from May 8th to the middle of July, 
when the hour is 8; and then till the end of August it closes 
at 7. The Greek and Roman Sculpture Galleries, and the 
Gallery of Antiquities, are now open on Wednesday and Friday. 
The Reading Room is closed, for cleaning, the first four week¬ 
days in March and October. 

The east end of Great Russell Street opens into Bloomsbury 
Square, at the north-east corner of which stood Lord Mansfield’s 
house, sacked and burned by the Lord George Gordon rioters in 
1780. Bedford Place leads from Bloomsbury to Russell Square, 
not far from which, in Guilford Street, is the Foundling Hospital, 
founded in 1739 by a sea-captain, Thomas Coram, “for exposed 
and deserted children.” This interesting institution is open for 
the inspection of visitors every Sunday after morning service, in 
the chapel (which begins at 11), and every Monday from 10 till 4. 
Returning to Bloomsbury, and going down Southampton Row 
into Holborn, on the opposite side lies Little Queen Street, 
which leads to Lincoln’s Inn Fields. We stand here on classic 
ground. Sir Thomas More, Shaftesbury the statesman, Lord 


From the Marble Arch to Holborn. 339 

Mansfield and other not less eminent lawyers, studied in the 
precincts of Lincoln’s Inn; and Oliver Cromwell passed two 
years of his eventful life in the same locality. The square has 
its sad reminiscences too. In its centre stood the scaffold on 
which died one of the noblest of English patriots, Lord William 
Russell. Drs. Donne, Ussher and Tillotson (afterwards Arch¬ 
bishop of Canterbury) were preachers in the ancient chapel of 
Lincoln’s Inn. The fine edifice on the south side of the square 
is the Royal College of Surgeons. The interior of the College is 
well adapted to its uses, and the spacious museum contains a 
splendid collection of anatomical preparations. Admission is 
obtained by order of a member of the College (any medical man 
in practice) between 12 and 5 from March to August, and 12 to 4 
during the winter months, on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and 
Thursday. The Museum is closed in September. 

On the north side of the square (No. 13) is the Soane Museum, 
admission to which may be obtained on personal application 
from 10 till 4 on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays in April, 
May and June; and on Wednesdays and Thursdays in February, 
March, July and August inclusive. The collection comprises 
several important pictures—Hogarth’s “ Rake’s Progress ” and 
“ Election ” among the number, and a valuable collection of gems, 
coins and sculptures. 

Lincoln’s Inn, on the east side of the square, is one of the four 
Inns of Court so-called, of which we have already made mention 
in the chapter on “ Fleet Street.” The gateway facing Chancery 
Lane is its oldest and most interesting feature, architecturally. 
“ It was built,” says Pennant, “ by Sir Thomas Lovel, once a 
member of this Inn, and afterwards Treasurer of the Household 
to Henry VIII.” The chapel was designed by Inigo Jones, and 
dates from 1631-33. The Hall and Library are worth seeing. 
On the east side of Lincoln’s Inn is Chancery Lane, at the north 
end of which in Holborn is Gray’s Inn, another of the Inns of 
Court. It was founded in 1357. Most of its buildings (except 
the Hall, with black oak roof), are of comparatively modern date. 


340 London of To-Day . 

In Gray’s Inn lived and died the great Lord Chancellor Bacon. 
A tree planted by him in the dreary old garden of the Inn may 
yet, we believe, be seen propped up by iron stays. Charles I., 
when Prince Charles, was an honorary member of this Inn, and 
Bradshaw, afterwards one of his judges, was a bencher at the 
same period in its history. Gray’s Inn Road leads to King’s 
Cross. Furnival’s Inn, close at hand, is rendered interesting 
from the fact that Charles Dickens in the early part of his 
literary career had chambers here. From this point to Newgate 
Street the line of street is almost wholly modern. The Church 
of St. Alban, which earned notoriety in connection with the 
Ritualistic practices of a section of the Church of England clergy, 
stands in Brook Street, a short distance east of Furnival’s Inn. 
Two other churches in the vicinity are of some historical interest: 
St. Andrew’s, Holborn, one of Wren’s edifices, and of which the 
famous Dr. Sacheverell was rector; and St. Sepulchre’s, on the 
north side of Holborn Viaduct. On the west side of this church, 
not so many years ago, ran Field Lane and Saffron Hill, of which 
Dickens makes mention in the doings of Fagin and the adven¬ 
tures of Oliver Twist. These, like hundreds of other parts of 
Old London, have been swept away within the past twenty 
years. 


Museums , Exhibitions, Picture Galleries, etc. 341 


Chapter XXXVI. 

MUSEUMS, EXHIBITIONS, PICTURE GALLERIES, 
ETC., OPEN FREE TO THE PUBLIC. 

(Hereinbefore referred to under “ The Streets and Public 
Buildings.”) 

RCHITECTURAL MUSEUM, 18, Tufton Street, West- 



1 1 minster. Open daily from 10 till 4. 

Asiatic Society, 22, Albemarle Street. Open daily, except 
Saturdays , by member’s ticket, from 11 till 4. 

Bank of England. By order obtainable of the Governor or 
one of the Directors. 

Bethnal Green Museum. Monday, Tuesday and Saturday. 

British Museum, Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury. Daily, 
10 till dusk. 

College of Surgeons’ Museum, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Daily. 

Entomological Society’s Museum, Chandos Street, Cavendish 
Square. Mondays, from 2 to 7, by member’s order. 

Geological Society’s Museum, Burlington House, Piccadilly. 
By member’s ticket. 

Guildhall Museum, King Street, Cheapside. Daily, 10 till 5. 

Houses of Parliament. Saturday, by order from the Lord 
Great Chamberlain’s Office, at the House of Lords. 

India Museum, Exhibition Road, Kensington. 10 till 6. 

Institute of Civil Engineers (Models, Plans, etc.), 25, Great 
George Street, Westminster, By member’s order. 

Kensington (South) Museum. Monday, Tuesday, Saturday, 
free (other days, 6 d.). Open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. 

King’s College Museum, 160, Strand. Must be introduced by 
member or student. 

Lambeth Palace, to be reached most easily by boat from West¬ 
minster or Charing Cross piers to Lambeth. 


342 


London of To-Day. 

Linnaean Society’s Museum (Natural History), Burlington 
House, Piccadilly. Wednesday and Friday, from io till 4, by 
member’s order. 

Missionary Museum (Idols, etc.), Blomfield Street, Finsbury. 
Open daily from 10 till 4 ; Saturdays, 10 till 2. 

Museum of Practical Geology, Jermyn Street. Daily, 10 

till 4. 

National Gallery, Trafalgar Square. Mondays, Tuesdays, 
Wednesdays, Saturdays, free (other days 6 d.). 10 till 4 or 6. 

National Portrait Galley, temporarily at Bethnal Green 
Museum. Daily, except Friday, 10 till 4 or 6. 

Natural History Museum, Cromwell Road, South Kensington. 
Daily 10 till dusk. 

Parkes Museum of Hygiene, 74A, Margaret Street, Cavendish 
Square. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, 10 till 2. 

Pharmaceutical Society’s Museum, 17, Bloomsbury Square. 
Daily, except Saturdays. 

Royal Botanic Society, Inner Circle, Regent’s Park. Open 
daily, May to July from 7 till dusk, other months from 9 till dusk, 
by fellow’s order. 

Royal Institution Museum, 21, Albemarle Street. Daily, from 
10 till 4, by member’s order. 

Royal Society’s Museum, Burlington House. By order of 
fellow. 

Soane Museum, 13, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. (Contains many 
of Hogarth’s pictures and other works of art.) Open on Tues¬ 
day, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday, April till August; 
Tuesday and Thursday in February and March. 

Society of Arts Museum, John Street, Adelphi. Open daily, 
except Wednesday , from 10 till 3, by member’s order. 

Tower of London, Tower Hill. Armoury and Crown Jewels. 
Free on Mondays and Saturdays. Open from 10 till 4 ; 10 till 6, 
?day to August. 

Trinity House Museum (Lighthouses, etc.). Tower Hill. 
Daily, 10 till 4. 


Museums , Exhibitions , Picture Galleries y etc. 343 

United Service Museum, Whitehall. Daily, from 11 till 4 or 5 
((except Friday), by member's ticket, or on application to the 
Secretary. 

MILITARY BARRACKS AND STATIONS IN AND NEAR LONDON. 

The troops quartered in London are, as a rule, certain regi¬ 
ments of the Brigade of Guards and the Household Brigade of 
Cavalry. A regiment of the Cavalry of the Line is also stationed 
at Hounslow. The principal barracks are as follows :— 

Chelsea Barracks, Chelsea.—Infantry. 

Wellington Barracks, St. James’s Park.—Infantry. 

The Tower of London.—Infantry. 

Hyde Park Barracks.—Cavalry, one regiment. 

Albany Street, Regent’s Park.—Cavalry, one regiment. 

Kensington Barracks.—Infantry and a troop of cavalry. 

The principal military depots in the vicinity of London are 

Woolwich.—Artillery, Infantry of the Line and Army Service 
Corps. 

Windsor.—Infantry and Cavalry of the Guard. 

Hounslow.—Cavalry, one regiment. 

The great centre of the whole military system of the United 
Kingdom is at Aldershot, about two hours’ journey on the Lon¬ 
don and South Western Railway from Waterloo Bridge Station. 
A divison of the army is permanently stationed there. At 
Chatham, about an hour and a half from Victoria Station, Pimlico, 
on the London, Chatham and Dover Railway, is the School of 
Military Engineering and Headquarters of the Royal Engineers. 
Woolwich is the Headquarters of the Royal Artillery. 

It may not seem out of place to add here that the Royal 
Naval College for Officers of the Royal Navy is established at 
what was formerly known as Greenwich Hospital. 


THE PRISONS. 

The prisons of London may be divided as follows : 1, Houses 
of Detention, as Newgate; 2, Houses of Correction, as Holloway 


344 


London of To-Day. 


and Wandsworth Prisons ; 3, the Government or Convict Prisons, 
as Wormwood Scrubs. Permission to view a prison is granted by 
order from the Secretary of State, Home Office, Whitehall, S.W.; 
or of one of the visiting justices of the gaol to which admission is 
sought; or through the Director of Convict Prisons. 

Newgate, the chief criminal prison for the county and the city, 
in the Old Bailey, is used as a house of detention for prisoners 
brought to trial at the Central Criminal Court or such as may be 
capitally convicted. This prison deserves attention chiefly on 
account of its historic interest. 

Criminal trials take place at the Old Bailey and the Middlesex 
Sessions House on Clerkenwell Green. Minor offences are dis¬ 
posed of daily (10 to 4) at the various police-courts of the 
Metropolis, the chief of which are at Bow Street, Covent Garden, 
the Mansion House and Guildhall in the City. 







































Libraries of Reference. 


345 


Chapter XXXVII. 


LIBRARIES AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 

RT LIBRARY of South Kensington Museum. Open during 



L the same hours as the Museum. It contains upwards of 
30,000 volumes and pamphlets on all subjects bearing on art; 
a collection of many thousand drawings, designs and illumi¬ 
nations ; upwards of 20,000 engravings, chiefly of ornament, and 
35,000 photographs of architectural objects of art, original draw¬ 
ings, etc. All its contents are rendered, as far as possible, 
available to students. This is emphatically a special library, the 
object of which is to aid in the acquisition and development of 
artistic knowledge and taste, and to furnish means of reference 
on questions connected with art. The books and periodicals in 
the Educational Reading Room relate chiefly to elementary 
instruction at home and abroad ; but several standard works in 
history, science and general literature are included in the 
collection. The number of volumes exceeds 20,000. On 
students’ days (Wednesday, Thursday and Friday) the Reading 
Room is open to all visitors; on free days admission is restricted 
to clergymen, teachers of schools for the poor or holders of 
tickets. 

British Museum Reading Room, Great Russell Street, Blooms¬ 
bury. The use of the Reading Room is restricted to the purposes 
of study, reference, or research. No person under twenty-one 
years of age is admissible, except under a special order from the 
Trustees. Persons desiring to be admitted must apply in writing 
to the Principal Librarian, stating their profession or business, 
place of abode and, if required, the purpose for which admission 
is sought. A letter of recommendation from a householder, 
or person of known position, such as a banker, clergyman, or 


346 


London of To-Day. 


magistrate, must accompany such application, which must ibe 
made two days at least before admission is required. The Reading 
Room is opened all the year round at 9 a.m., except on Sunday, 
Good Friday, Christmas Day, and the first four week-days of 
March and October. The hours are from 9 till 8, September to 
April; 9 till 7, May to August. 

College of Surgeons, 40 to 42, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Admis¬ 
sion daily on application, under the same regulations as to the 
Museum of the College. 

Congregational Library, 18, South Street, Finsbury, E.C. 
Admission daily on previous application made by letter to the 
Secretary. 

Free Library and Reading Room of the Commissioners of 
Patents, Southampton Buildings, W.C. Open every day from 
10 to 10. Library of Patents, etc. A collection of scientific 
works, numbering some 50,000 volumes. 

Guy’s Hospital. Medical Library. St. Thomas’s Street, 
Borough, S.E. Admission daily on previous application made 
by letter to the Secretary. 

Heralds’ College. Heraldic Library. Queen Victoria Street 
(not far from the Times Office), City. 

Incorporated Law Society. Valuable Law Library. 103 to 
III, Chancery Lane. Special permission necessary. 

India Office. Library relating to the government of India. 
Whitehall. Admission daily on application. 

Lambeth Palace. Library of valuable MSS. and archives con¬ 
nected with the See of London, etc. Admission on application at 
Lambeth Palace on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, 10 to 3. 

Library of the Corporation of the City of London, Guildhall. 
Most valuable general library. Admission daily, except on holi¬ 
days, 10 to 9. Contains nearly 50,000 volumes, a large collection 
of early printed plays and pageants, and other works connected 
with the City of London. Free. 

Lincoln’s Inn Library. Law library. Special permission 
from two Masters of the Bench. New Hall, Lincoln’s Inn. 


Libraries of Reference. 347 

Linocean Society. Botanical Library. Burlington House 
Piccadilly. Free, on application by letter to the Secretary. 

London Institution, Finsbury Circus, Moorfields. A library 
consisting of upwards of 60,000 volumes, particularly rich in 
topographical works. Apply to Secretary. 

London Library, St. James’s Square, W. This valuable 
institution, one of the most accessible and convenient in regard to 
its system of lending books of all the London libraries, is open 
to subscribers only. 

Middle Temple. Law Library. Special permission from two 
Masters of the Bench ; or apply to the Librarian, Middle Temple, 
Fleet Street. 

Obstetrical Society’s Library, 291, Regent Street, W. On 
application to Sub-Librarian. 

Royal Academy of Arts. Valuable Art Library. Burlington 
House, Piccadilly. Special permission requisite. Apply to 
Librarian. 

Royal Agricultural Society, 12, Hanover Square, W. On 
personal application. 

Royal Asiatic Society, 22, Albemarle Street, W. On personal 
application. 

Royal Astronomical Society, Burlington House, Piccadilly. 

Royal College of Physicians. Valuable Medical Library 
Application for permission to consult any of the works to be 
made to the Registrar, Pall Mall East. 

Royal Institution, 21, Albemarle Street, Piccadilly, S.W. 
Application to Librarian. 

Royal United Service Institution. Valuable Military Library. 
Application to Secretary of the Institution, Whitehall Yard, 
S.W. 

Sion College Library, Thames Embankment, Blackfriars. 
Sixty or seventy thousand volumes, chiefly works of divinity, 
but many very rare and curious. Admission may be had on 
personal application. 


348 


London of To-Day. 


HOSPITALS AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 

Among the familiar “ sights ” of London are the Hospitals and 
Charitable Institutions. Turn which way we may we are sure 
to be reminded of them, if not by actual view of the buildings 
themselves by some indication of their whereabouts. The most 
imposing edifice dedicated to the treatment of the sick poor, 
open to the eye of everyone, stands on the southern Thames 
Embankment, opposite the Houses of Parliament. This is St. 
Thomas’s Hospital, a large range of modern buildings on the 
separate plan. The original foundation ' dates from the days (it 
we mistake not) of Edward VI., and formed part of that youthful 
prince’s comprehensive scheme for the relief of the London poor. 
St. Bartholomew’s Hospital, in West Smithfield, which has a 
service of 710 beds, is the oldest and, on the whole,, the most 
interesting hospital in London. It also belongs to Edward’s 
scheme, though actually dating from long previous to his reign. 
The London Hospital, in the Whitechapel Road, has a service 
of 800 beds. Guys Hospital, St. Thomas’s Street, Borough, 
has accommodation for 695 in-patierits. Other important hos¬ 
pitals are St. George’s, Hyde Park Corner (353 beds); King’s 
College, Portugal Street, Lincoln’s Inn Fields (200 beds)-; 
Middlesex (300 beds); St. Mary’s, Paddington (200 beds); 
Charing Cross (180 beds); Westminster, Broad Sanctuary, 
Westminster (200 beds); University College, Great Northern, 
West London, Metropolitan Free and the German Hospitals. 
Indeed, the hospitals, infirmaries, asylums and charitable insti¬ 
tutions of London are so numerous and various, that it is 
impossible to give even a brief account of the more important 
here. A valuable guide to those who may be specially interested 
in this feature of Metropolitan London will be found in the 
“Charities Register and Digest,” published for the Charity 
Organization Society, 15, Buckingham Street, Strand. 



MADAME JULIE SWAEBE, 


ROBES & MODES, CONFECTIONS, 
CORSETS, LINGERIE, ETC. 

UNDER ROYAE PATRONAGE, 

AND BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO 


H.G.D.H. PRINCESS LEININGEN. 


Sole Address, 

9, NEW BURLINGTON STREET, 

REGENT STREET. 

Telegraphic Address, DRESSMAKER, LONDON. 


r ^.WOLMERSHAUSE/V 

u LADIES & GENTLEMENS TAILOR * 

&49,Curzon ST, Mayfair,W. 
















350 


London of To-Day. — Advertisements. 


Hill Brothers, 


tailors. 


3, Old Bond Street, London. 



WORTH ET CIE., 

untOer 1Ro£al patronage. 

MODES ET ROBES. 
CORSETIERES. 

134, NEW BOND STREET, W. 


MADAME HENRI DURAND, 

Court 2Dre00ntafcer anti Milliner. 

BEST STYLE AND PERFECT FIT COMBINED WITH MODERATE CHARGES. 

CORSETS DE VERTUS S<EURS, 

12, ORCHARD STREET, PORTMAN SQUARE, 

LONDON, W. 














THE SHOPS. 


4 

• • 




* 



THE PANEL CONCERT DATE LIST, 

ttKATlS OX APPLICATION. ( Registered .) 

Telegraphic AddressTREE, 28, PICCADILLY. 

BASIL TREE’S 

(SUCCESSOR to AMBROSE AUSTIN) 

UNIVERSAL TICKET OFFICE, 

ST. JAMES’S HALL. 

(Established 1858,) 

LIST of FORTHCOMING CONCERTS for the Season, 1891. 


MONDAY POPULAR 
CONCERTS, 8. 

Jan. 5, 12, 19, 26. 

Feb. 2, 9, 16, 23. 

March 2, 9, 16, 23. 

Subscription, £3. 

Tickets , 7 

SATURDAY POPULAR 
CONCERTS, 3. 

Jan. 10, 17, 24, 31. 

Feb. 7, 14, 21, 28. 

March 7, 14, 21. 
Subscription, £2 15s. 

/6, 3/-, 1/-. 

LONDON SYMPHONY 
CONCERTS. 

Thursday Evenings, 8. 

January 15, 29. 

February 12, 26. 

Subscription , £1 3s. 4 d. 
Tickets, 10/6, 5/-, 3/-, 1/-. 

LONDON BALL 

Wednesday Evenings, 8. 
January 14, 28. 

February 11, 25. 

March 11. 

Family Tickets 
Tickets, 7/6 , l . 

AD CONCERTS. 

Wednesday Afternoons, 3. 
January 3 (Saturday), 21. 
February 4, 18. 

March 4, 18. 

(4 Stalls ), 25/-. 

/-, 3/-, 2/-, 1/-. 

RICHTER CONCERTS. 

Monday Evenings, 8.30, 

May 25. 

June 1, 8, 15, 22, 29. 

July 6, 13, 20. 

Tickets, 15/-, 10/6, 5/-, 2/6. 
Subscription £5 and £3 10s. 

PHILHARMONIC 

CONCERTS. 

Thursday Evenings, 8. 

March 6, 19. April 16, 30. 
May 14, 28. 

June 27 (Sat. Afternoon, 3). 

Subscription, 

£33s., £2 2s.,and£l 11s. 6d, 
Tickets, 10/6, 7/6,5/-, 2/6,1/-. 

ROYAL CHORAL 
SOCIETY. 

ROYAL ALBERT HALL. 

Wednesday Evenings, at 8. 
January 21. February 11. 
March 11. April 15. 

May 6. 

Tickets, 10/6,7/-, 5/-, 3/-. 

SARASATE CONCERTS 

Orchestral Concerts. 
Saturday Afternoons at 3. 

May 30. June 6, 13, 20. 

And Two Concerts with 
Pianoforte. 

(Madame Berthe Marx). 
Wednesday Evenings at 8. 

June 3 and 17. 

Tickets , 10/6. 5/-, 3/-. 2/-, 1/-. 

THE 

ALBENIZ CONCERTS. 

Evening, 8.15. Afternoon, 3. 

January 27. February 12. 
March 14. j „ 26. 

May 21. | April 9. 

June 4. „ 24. 

,, 18. May 8. 

Tickets, 5/-, 3/-, 2/-, 1/-. 
Subscription, for 10 Concerts, 
40/-, 25/-. 5 Morning, 21/-, 
13/-. 5 Evening, 21/-, 13/-. 

MR. AMBROSE 
AUSTIN’S SACRED 
CONCERT. 

Good Friday, March 27th, 
at 7.30. 

Rossini’s “ Stabat Mater,” 
Gems from the Oratorios, 
etc. 

Tickets, 7/6, 5/-, 3/-, 2/-, 1/-. 

MR. SIMS REEYES’ 
FAREWELL. 

Royal Albert Hall. 

Assisted by Madame 
Christine Nilsson and 
other Eminent Artistes. 

Tickets, 15/-, 10/6, 7/6, 

5/-, 3/-, 2/-. 

Boxes, 5gs., 3gs., and 2gs. 


IRISH BALLAD CONCERT, St. Patrick’s Day, March 17, at 8. Tickets, 7/6,3/-, 2/-, 1/-. 


ALL CONCERTS AT ROYAL ALBERT HALL. 

Tickets for M OORE & BURGESS’ MINSTRELS, St. James’s Hall, 5/-, 3/-, 2/-, 1/-. 

Tickets are issued for tlie Unreserved Seats for all the above and forwarded to all parts of the 
country on receipt of stamps. 

"'V Orders for Cheap Tickets must be accompanied by Remittance and Stamped Envelope. 

P.0. Orders and Cheques, crossed “London and Westminster,” made payable to 

HASH TREK, 28, PICCADILLY. 

Tickets for CRYSTAL PALACE SATURDAY CONCERTS. 

Any Additions to, or Alterations of, above will be duly announced. 





















353 


INTRODUCTORY. 



Seven years having elapsed since we first projected this section 
of our book ; and experience having shown, that it is alike 
serviceable to our Readers (whose obliged, and obedient servant 
we ever remain), and to those for whom we have volunteered to 





354 


London of To-Day. 

act herein, in some sort, as intermediary; the time has come, we 
think, when we may safely dispense with our appeal to the 
Critics, heretofore in this chapter published, and proceed im¬ 
mediately to the business in hand. 

Taking respectful leave, then, of the right Worshipful and 
most Honourable members of the Profession collectively, not 
unmindful of the several obligations under which we lie to many, 
for not a little kindly, and discriminating notice of this our work, 
from time to time published in the Journals, the which kindly 
notices have, it may be admitted, in no small degree aided, and 
encouraged us in our present undertaking, let us turn-to once 

more and give our undivided attention to the Reader. 

****** 

In this great world’s Mart of ours, London of To-Day, it is no 
easy matter for a Stranger, purse in hand, unacquainted with its 
ways and localities, and desirous of trafficking in some fashion 
in its commodities, to pick his way among the crowd of buyers 
and merchants, and find for himself the very man and store he 
is in search of. That this is more readily done in the case of 
manufacturing and wholesale Firms, every one knows; for the 
transactions of ,these are restricted to, comparatively speaking, 
fewer customers ; and those, too, generally well-acquainted with 
the name, address, and reputation of the particular House with 
which they propose to carry out their business. 

But, as regards the Retailer, his case is different. His business 
lies with the general Public, and any enterprise, speciality, or 
superiority he discovers in his trade, must be brought directly to 
the knowledge and eye, not merely of some hundreds but of many 
thousands of possible customers : that is to say, if he hopes for a 
fair percentage of them to be attracted his way. And, per 
contra , it is less easy to find him in the great hurly-burly of 
clamorous competitors, than the staid wholesale merchant from 
whom he and his rivals in trade periodically draw each Season’s 
supplies. 

The eagerness to draw that “ fair percentage ” of buyers 


Introductory. 355 

various ways in London, is greater now than it ever before was. 
Moreover, the Shops of the great city cover many miles of streets, 
north, south, east, west and central, not a few in West End 
London of very recent construction : so that even to a Londoner, 
long-time familiarized with the intricacies of the Town, it is not 
unfrequently a matter of some difficulty, to track down an old 
friend with whom he has been accustomed to deal in time past 
across the customary counter, for such things as he stands in 
need of. 

Our good and patient acquaintance, the Reader, must not sup¬ 
pose, however, that we are about to increase our labours and 
lessen his patience by adding a Commercial Directory of London 
to this section of our Handbook, already sufficiently bulky. 
Nothing of the kind is attempted in it. All that it professes to 
do, is to point out to the Uncommercial Traveller, the Visitor 
in fact, staying in or passing through London, the whereabouts 
and specialities of certain Shops at the West End, or elsewhere, 
of well-recognized reputation among innumerable competitors, 
and also, in the majority of cases, personally known to the Editor 
himself. His knowledge of London now extends over thirty 
years; and if that fact advances no claim for him to be considered 
somewise familiar with its Streets, its Shops, its Fashions, and 
its Trade, he may as well drop the office of guide and seek 
some other, and perhaps more congenial and better appreciated, 
occupation. 

The following pages are compiled chiefly for the use of the 
discriminating : the class of persons who having some whim, 
wish, fashion, or fad, whatever you will, to gratify, seek to gratify 
it with as little trouble as can be to themselves. 

In this regard, this Handbook will be found a far more service¬ 
able aid than is commonly met with, and perhaps in some 
respects, more trustworthy. Its Editor (as he has remarked) is 
himself personally acquainted with not a few of those incidentally 
named in the following pages ; has either himself dealt with 
them and paid over his money with the rest; or has received 


356 


London of To-Day. 


satisfactory recommendation of them from others—even though 
in the majority of instances, the surest testimony of a Firm’s 
merit were not to be found in the established enterprise and 
reputation of the Firm itself. 

He knows of no sufficient reason why in his own name, in his 
own behalf, and in his own Publication, he may not retail such 
information for the benefit of others, if they care to make use 
of it: albeit “ a dangerous precedent,” as says the Manchester 
Guardian , of admitted authority, yet not the final one. 

The Reader is the final authority. Our advice herein is respect¬ 
fully tendered, quantum valeat , and, as included in the original 
plan of this work. In such wise he proffers it, if it should be 
needed, and along with some three hundred pages of preceding 
matter, for the modest sum of 35-. 6d., the published price of this 
Handbook. 

If that sum should be considered excessive—a lawyer’s ill- 
written and generally unacceptable letter of ten lines costs as 
much ; a barrister’s opinion, comprised in a single paragraph, 
cannot be had for more than twelve times its price; a physician’s 
prescription, badly penned in schoolboy Latin, may not be pur¬ 
chased for less than six times the amount of our poor fee, half of 
which, good Reader, goes into the till of the Publishers: if that 
sum, we say, be deemed excessive, you have the remedy in your 
own hands. Advise your friends and acquaintances against 
buying our volume, and so end our career as guide, philosopher 
and friend. 

If, on the contrary, you think our book fairly written, generally 
interesting, trustworthy on the whole, a good guide to a stranger 
in London of To-Day and moderate in respect of price, say so; 
and scruple not of circulating such favourable opinion among 
others. 
























































55 



An April Afternoon in Bond Street. 






















A Little Lecture before Shopping. 


35 7 


Chapter XXXVIII. 

A LITTLE LECTURE BEFORE SHOPPING. 

E observe that Mrs. Lynn Linton, a lady who, to various 



other accomplishments, adds an uncommon readiness of 


apt criticism with the pen, has been writing on the “ Immorality 
of Cheapness.” So entirely do we agree with what that lady has 
to say upon this subject that we yield it the prominence of italic 
type in the hope that the eye may fall upon it, and that it may 
be read, marked, pondered, and inwardly digested, as it deserves 


to be. 


Says that lady, truly : Among the immoralities of this our day, 
against which no voice is raised, and to remove which not so 
much as a little finger is lifted, “ is the essentially modern craze for 
cheapness—the universal desire for bargains—that is, to get the 
value of a pound for the outlay of nineteen shillings. . . . No one 
looks upon this as a wrong thing to do, or sees in it an economic 
immorality. Good managers pride themselves on their perspic¬ 
acity when they find out a 1 cheap place ,’ and on their cleverness 
when they drive a hard bargain. They never stop to inquire how 
one man can afford to sellfor five shillings what another cannot 
afford to part with under six. They only know they can save 
their own shilling; and who pays the difference does not count. 
Yet some one has to pay it; and that some one is for the most part 
the one who can afford it least—the poor and overdriven worker— 
the white slave of the sweater—the 'cheap' shopkeeper forced to 
undersell by the bargainer 

It is amazing with what indifferent consideration for others, the 
kindliest people will sometimes rush off to the Cheap Store to aid 
in making somewhere more acutely felt the inherited common 
curse of the first Adam. 


London of To-Day. 



Why will we not pause to remember, that the cheap thing can 
only be produced by cheap labour; and that cheap labour ordin¬ 
arily means lower than the average of wages ; which in its turn 
means enlarged charitable contributions from ourselves to the 
presiding ruler of Darkest England; to this Society or to that ; to 
the Clergy ; to Local, or Metropolitan charities; and finally to in¬ 
creasing demands from the Government itself, in the shape of 
more pennies in the £ for poor’s rate. 

Why will we not pause to consider the cost in honesty, in 

pressure on the heart’s more 
healthful and generous beat¬ 
ings, entailed by the making 
of these utterly rubbishy bits 
of finery ; these yards of 
flimsy silk and satin stuffs; 
these tawdry items of cheap 
millinery ; these three-and-six- 
penny shirts; these twopenny- 
ha’penny collars; these gene¬ 
rally worthless imitations of 
good and genuine articles? 

Now do you really suppose* 
dear Madam, when attracted 
by such things, you finally 
buy them, that your dear 
friend whom you least like to 
notice your little make-shifts 
of fashion do you really sup¬ 
pose that she doesn’t detect 
the difference between the 
real thing and the sham ? She 
detects it in an instant. “ Imi¬ 
tation,” she remarks to her 
neighbour ;» “ and very indifferent, too, at that.” She enters your 
drawing-room and takes immediate stock of all you possess ; the 








359 


A Little Lecture before Shopping. 

“ Chippendale ” stuff therein set out ; the beautiful springy 
Utrecht velvet sofa ; the Louis Quatorze hangings; the occasional 
tables of glued wood and so on and so on : and she inwardly 
chuckles to herself “ Cheap and common.” 

And do you, our friendly acquaintance of the Mall: do you 
suppose that we, discriminating as we always are, cannot discern 
the coat by Whitaker or Poole, Smalpage or Hill Brothers; the 
scarf by Harborow or Ludlow; the boots by Hook, Knowles & 
Co.; the hat by that admirable artist, Mr. Herbert Johnson, of 
45, New Bond Street? Frankly, do you think we do not know 
the difference between Holborn and Piccadilly; between the 
sixpenny-ha’penny scarf “ made-up ” and the scarf of Brussells 
silk such as Messrs. Harborow sell their patrons ? 

We are gradually becoming poor bundles of penn’orths in¬ 
stead of dressed-clothes-props; and it would be hard to say 
which is the more deficient in humanity, in intelligence and 
in perception. 

There are three prices for all things, Mrs. Lynn Linton reminds 
us. “ The one is the fair price, which gives an honest percentage 
on the capital employed , and allows of just wages to the labourer. 
The other is a fancy price that goes to a name , a fashion , a fine 
shop-front , a well-advertised trade-mark; this is a price which 
does not reach the labourer , and only helps to put an inch more of 
silver plating on the harness of the sellers prancing bays. The 
third is the unremunerative price , which necessitates the sweating 
of the labourer if capital is to bear any interest at all; this is the 
price affected by Modern Society.” 

Avaunt “Modern Society!” nathless our Handbook some- 
wise itself caters, and cheaply too (our pocket alone is the 
sufferer) for your edification and amusement, in regard of this 
same London of To-Day of ours. But that we are not exces¬ 
sively remunerated in that business we can assure you. The 
appeal ad misericordiam , however, is not in our way ; and so we 
keep “pegging away, - ’ and working it out on this line, in com¬ 
pany of a thousand other makers of cheap things. And so long, 


360 London of To-Day . 

perhaps, as vve are content to do so, and there are bread and 
cheese in the cupboard, it is of no consequence to any but 
ourself. 

To recur once again to our Lady of the Pen, able and inde¬ 
fatigable in striving to undo ill-doing : — “ And we must remem¬ 
ber,” says she, “ that it is not only the poor or the poor genteel 
who want their pound's-worth of goods for ?iineteen shillings of 
outlay. The richest do it all the same as the poorest. This 

grudging desire to grind down fair profits 
has spread like a canker through all classes 
alike. No matter how many small inde- 
pendent traders are ruined , rich people flock 
to the Stores and Imporia where they can 
get things five per cent, cheaper than at 
the shops: that five per cent, representing 
nothing appreciable in their yearly income. 
Where will you find one so Quixotic as to 
deal with the smaller shops for the sake of 
enabling honest men to make a livelihood 
and maintain their independence—paying 
four per cent, more than if they were to go 
to that monster establishment which swallows 
the?n up as so many Jonahs devoured by the 
whale of aggregation ? ” 

“ Delicate women will go ‘ slumming, ’ and 
well-bred men will volunteer for Toynbee 
Hall; but neither will forego the pleasure 
of these iniquitous bargains—that disastrous 
cheapness for which the poor finally pay. 
The individual they may succour, but they 
support the system by which the individual 
suffers; and because they are units they think 
it does not signify. What can they do for ban or blessing ?” 

Ladies and Gentlemen, of well-filled purses, of common sense 
and due understanding both, you can do thus much : You can 

























A Little Lecture before Shopping. 361 

make use of both these excellent endowments of Nature’s own 
providing, so handsomely given you, and use them for the behoof 
of others, within the limits of personal possibility. What right 
have you, or I, pleading that whatsoever we would that men should 
do to us, we may do even so to them: what right have we, I 
say, generally so keen in estimating the value of our own ser¬ 
vices and labour, to systematically aid in paring down the value 
of those of other people—and these people, let us remind you, 
mainly among the poorer classes—and solely to gratify this 
excessive craving for cheap things ; it may be in dress, or in 
furniture (alas for Modern Society’s abominable taste that way : 
the unreal and the common for the real and uncommon), or in a 
hundred other different things, with which so many of the shops 
of London of To-Day are filled ? 

Too frequently, in indulging that craving, we are led to buy 
what we do not really want; and not seldom that which, were 
we to be driven presently to sell again, we should find absolutely 
unsalable. 

“ Look at this,” exclaims some worthy lady : “ Look at this. 
Isn’t it wonderful how they make it for the money? How do 
these people contrive to sell it at the price, Mr. Editor?” 

Why, bless your honest, unreflecting soul, dear Madam, 
“ they ” sell it at the price, as a Director of a manufacturing 
establishment explained to us, and with some enthusiasm for 
the method: “they” sell it by grinding down work-people, boys, 
girls, women and men, until there is nothing left in, or on, them 
to grind down. And you, good, worthy lady you, and your 
generally most meritorious and blameless sisterhood, are ^aiding 
and abetting in the process. 

“Oh, Mr. Editor: what a shameful and most unjust charge, to 
bring against us women ! ” 

Nay, Madam, but it’s too true. You are cheering-on, by your 
craving for cheap things, the dismal whirr of that rending, and 
heart-corroding wheel, a thousand times more deplorable and in¬ 
jurious-in its effects, than the passing torture of the old-English 

27 


362 London of To-Day. 

rack and thumbscrews. Now there’s for you, Gentle Ladies of 
the Co-operative Society of Cheap Buyers. 

“ But ces Messieurs, Mr. Editor; those men, the notoriously 
tyrannical, grasping, and filching men; what about them? Are 
our periodical allowances so charitably apportioned, that we poor 
women can afford to be generous in our traffickings across the 
counter ? Is not our domestic outlay too-frequently curtailed ? 
Do they not restrict us for the most part in our personal 
expenditure ? ” 

Sensible men, Ma’am, care little, as a rule, for cheap-jack 
purchases. They would sooner a downright good thing at a fair 
price, than a downright bad thing at a dear one. They would 
rather an honest suit of “ Cheviot” at ^5, than a dishonest suit of 
“Shoddy” at £2 ioj. They would far rather a couple of well- 
stuffed easy-chairs (one for yourself, Ma’am, and one for your 
excellent husband), and say one or two additional chairs for 
friends ; than all that gimcrack enamelled furniture at so much 
the suite, they see in your drawing-room. Yea, further, they 
would rather their wives and daughters in good honest home- 
spun gowns, than in cheap flowered silks manufactured for the 
occasion. 

Give them their accustomed chair, a table, a bed, a decent 
meal (such as you, Ma’am, know so well how to provide for your 
husband), and a peaceful corner in which to smoke a peaceful 
pipe (the most sensible occupation in which a man can indulge) : 
and all the Louis Quatorze hangings, the imitation “ Chippen¬ 
dale ” suites, the fine Flemish sideboards; may be, for aught they 
care, re-sold for your advantage in Wardour Street. In brief, they 
would sooner their money spent on good, genuine pictures tha*t 
they may sell again, than on bad copies of the Old Masters which 
find no market. 

But let’s make a compact together, henceforth durable and 
binding. You, Ma’am, on your part engage to ponder well the 
real value of the cheap stuff offered for your acceptance ; and we 
on ours will buy no more sixpenny-ha’penny cravats; no more 


A Little Lecture before Shopping. 363 

four-and-ninepenny hats ; no more thirteen-shilling boots; no 
more three-and-sixpenny cardboard shirts for the dress-circle of 
the theatre. 

And for the rest, let us introduce to your consideration a new 
Society of London of To-Day known as the Consumers’ League, 
to which we wish all good luck and kindly greeting. With a 
committee of business-like men and women directing its affairs 
it may be productive of some good. 

This association is, in the word of its prospectus, “ an attempt 
on the part of persons, who are themselves buyers, to make it 
easier for buyers who wish to do so, to avoid injustice in their 
dealings.” It is intended, by a system of candid and judicious 
inquiry among shop-owners and employers in all branches of 
trade, to procure (without publishing unnecessary details) what 
should in time be a fairly complete list of those Firms and 
Employers whose workpeople labour for “ fair wagesand under 
good and healthy conditions. It is hoped by the promoters of 
the scheme that in a short time, when the Association becomes 
known, the better employers of labour will be more than ready 
to throw open their establishments to the agents of the League, 
and so get their names placed on its books’. It is pointed out 
with obvious truth, that not consumers and direct producers only, 
but the Shop-owners and Manufacturers themselves, would profit 
substantially by a scheme which should aim indirectly at lower¬ 
ing the killing and demoralizing competition which affects the 
employer not less than the worker in this same London of 
To-Day of which we write. 


SOCIETY OF ASSOCIATED ARTISTES, Limited. 

DRESSMAKERS, MILLINERS & EMBROIDERERS, 

97, WIMPOLE STREET, W. 


Dresses made on Estimate, or Own Materials made up. 

ARTISTS’ AND SPECIAL DESIGNS CARRIED OUT. 

Fit guaranteed from correct measurements, or a well-fitting bodice. 

“ The Society does not affect any one style in the manufacture of costumes to 
the exclusion of others, but turns out French, ‘ artistic,’ and Grecian robes, 3 ust 
as ladies desire. The reproduction of old costumes also comes within its 
province/’— Quern, November 10th, 1888. 

J OSEPH BOX, 

COURT 

BOOTMAKER, 

187, Regent Street, W. 

ESTABLISHED 1808. 

Illustrated List forwarded, Post Free. 

BEST HAVANA CIGARS AT IMPORT PRICES. 

The Greatest Connoisseurs, the Keenest Buyers, and the 
Best Judges of Value now Purchase their Cigars at 

BENSON & CO.’S, 

61, ST. PAUL’S CHURCHYARD, LONDON. 

Regular Shipments of CHOICE FOREIGN CIGARS, same as supplied 
to Army Messes, Clubs, etc., 16 /- to 22/- per 100 , and upwards. 

Samples 5 for Is. (14 stamps). 

Cigars to suit the most Delicate Palates. 

















FASHION, AND THE FASHIONABLE FIRMS 


OF LONDON OF TO-DAY, 







Lewis & Allenby, 

LIMITED, 

REGENT STREET & CONDUIT STREET, 

LONDON. 

SILK MERCERS, 

By Special Appointment, to 

Sbe <&ueen anb IRo^al jfamtl?. 

NOTED FOR ORIGINALITY OF CONCEPTION 

IN 

BALL S DINNER GOWNS. 

MANTLES, JACKETS, MILLINERY, 
WEDDING TROUSSEAUX AND OUTFITS. 

A SUCCESSION OF NEW DESIGNS FOR 

BRIDES’ and BRIDESMAIDS’ DRESSES 

ARE ALWAYS ON VIEW, ALSO 

LADIES’ DRESS REQUISITES 


OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 










E. TflUTZ & SONS, 

BREECHES MAKERS, SPORTINC 
TAILORS, Etc. 

Hunting, Riding, Racing, Polo, Shoot¬ 
ing Breeches and Knickerbockers 
in all Materials. 

BUCKSKINS-Hunting and Military. 

KNICKERBOCKER BREECHES. 

“ We have received a sample of the above from Messrs. Tautz, which appear 
to be of the same make as those noticed by us in The Field of July 15th, 1884, 
but which the above firm state they have made for 20 years.”— Vide “ The Fi.ld,” 
June 5th, 1885. 

Riding Trousers, Over-alls, Leggings, Gaiters, Spats, 
Hunting Coats, Covert Coats, Driving Goats, 

RIDING SUITS, SHOOTING SUITS, HUNTING DRESS and 
Requisites of every description. LADIES’ DEPARTMENT—Habits, etc. 

TAUTZ'S CELEBRATED KHAKI TWILLS AND CANTOONS 
For Riding Suits and Breeches for India and Colonies. 

L A DIE S’ DEPARTMENT. 

With Lady Fitter and Measurer. 

RIDING BREECHES (Speciality). RIDINGTROUSERS 
RIDING GAITERS & LEGGINGS. RIDING PANTS. 

<3TMcn> tc ®kir JJlajestifs tfre (Empress of Austria, Shtcen of ,. 

$p;un, ©nten of Jflaplts. 

RIDING HABITS, COVERT COATS, 

Etc., Etc. 

Prices and Self-measurement 
Cards on Application. 

PERFECT FIT, COMFORT, 

AND DURABILITY. 

Can be worn xoith Boots. 

E. TAUTZ & SONS, 

485, Oxford Street, W. 

ONLY ADDRESS IN LONDON. 

Telephone No. 3,633. 

Telegraphic Address— 

“BUCKSKINS, LONE 
























































































AMERICAN CONFECTIONERY, 

PURE AND FRESH EVERY DAY. 


First-class TN^ew York Style, Quality & Variety. 

AM ERICAN CAKE, 

(Angel Food, Chocolate, Cocoa-nut, Walnut, etc.). 

AMERICAN CLAM-BROTH,BEEF-TEA,COFFEE,COCOA. 

AMERICAN DRINKS, 

(SODA WATER, ICE-CREAM SODA, ETC.), IN SEASON. 

PEANUTS, POP-CORN, CHEWING-GUM. 


BRANCH: 

358, STRAND. 


206, REGENT ST., LONDON. 


BOOTS AND SHOES OF TO-DAY. 


OSBORNE & CO., 

387, OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W. 


FOR THE BEST STYLES, RELIABLE WEARING, AND AT 
MODERATE PRICES. 


Mrs. COURTENAY, 

COURT DRESSMAKER. 

474, OXFORD STREET (near MARBLE ARCH). 


-♦- 

Inexpensive ^Morning Qowns, Yea (jowns, 

TEA JACKETS, etc. 
PERFECT FRENCH FITTER. 







To Her Royal Highness the Princess Louise. 

G. SYKES, 

24, HANO V I-^, SQUARE 

(CORNER OF BROOK STREET), 

LATE OF 28 6, REGENT STREET. 

TAILOR GOWNS. COURT TRAINS. 

JACKETS AND ULSTERS. VISITING AND EVENING GOWNS. 

COLONIAL OUTFITS. TROUSSEAUX. 

Celebrated for perfect fit arid refined style at moderate prices. 


HAMILTON & CO., LIMITED. 

&rtisttc anti Jfrenrf) Bressmaferrs. 

326 , Regent Street, near the Langham Hotel. 

Smocked and Embroidered Dresses of all kinds. 

Ball and Dinner Dresses, Tea-gowns, Walking Dresses, Dressing-gowns, Smocks 
for Girls and Boys in any material. 

Particular attention paid to perfect fit and graceful draperies. Good colouring 
in materials carefully studied. Any artistic design intelligently followed. 

CORSETS. 


The best and most fashionable Corsets are made by 

JVIADAME LEOTY, 

PLACE DE LA MADELEINE, PARIS. 


The only Branch Establishment in England is at 

Madame Boubong’s, 

42, CONDUIT STREET, 


Where all Orders are received. 








3 6 7 


Chapter XXXIX, 

THE FASHIONABLE FIRMS. 


'T'ALKING the other day with an old friend of Conduit Street, 
a gentleman of unexceptionable authority in his business, 
I was unwittingly betrayed (being of little or no authority 
in such matters myself), into a criticism of the prevailing (or, is 
it now the late ?) mode , in respect of Ladies’ jackets: those 
jackets which, in regard of shoulder puffs and amplitude of 
collar, tend to make a short lady appear like a hunchback, and 
a tall lady as if she had no head. 

“ Ah,” said he; “ but if it were not for the Fashions, where 
should we be?” 

Truly, where would he be ? Where, indeed, would the great 
Professors of all the great London Dressmaking and Millinery 
establishments be ? To what would Paris, Manchester, Woo'd 
Street, Cheapside, St. Paul’s Churchyard, and similar sanctuaries 
of the Goddess, worshipped of women, turn their attention ? 
Fashion rules the world. It matters not who rules Fashion; 
though we have frequently put that 41 poser ” to Readers of these 
pages. 

It is pretty evident to our mind that Fashion, as in matters of 
law and courtly-etiquette, is mostly ruled by Precedent. We 
have repeatedly noticed, of late* years, that the London fashions 
of our time, are but a revival or adaptation of London fashions of 
a time gone by. For example, the high rolled-shoulders of the 
ladies’ jackets before referred to, are but a copy of similar parts 
of a most hideous coat worn by the “ bucks ” of Bond Street in 
the early years of the present century. 


3 68 


London of To-Day. 

It happens that we own an interesting collection of old 
Fashion Plates of the period of George the Third and the 
Regency (with a Paris imprint, of course); and during the past 
ten years we have seen no inconsiderable number of those 
pertaining to ladies’ costumes reproduced in the streets, at the 
theatres, or in the ball-rooms of London of To-Day : for walking 
and evening wear—dresses, cloaks, hats, bonnets, capes, boas 
and the rest; the most important exception perhaps being the 
“ Tailor-made ” dress so-called, so neat and admirable for women. 

Nevertheless, whatever the fashion may be, let’s “ go for it,” 
not to seem slangy. We are bound to do that much, or to 
appear to the world old before our time. 

It has been truly said that in order to experience the real zest 
of being fashionable one must have been born unfashionable. 
Extremes meet. A fine flavour lurks in the surpassing of others 
when one’s self has been surpassed. New fashions never 
originate among old families, and they are the last to be moved 
by the currents of change; but they do yield gradually to the 
innovations of the clever, audacious people who have pushed 
themselves up into circles in which they are at first disavowed, 
and which they end by governing. Society without les nouveaux 
riches tends to stagnation. It grows dull and dreary. Everything 
is taken too seriously, and when everybody and everything is 
highly proper and respectable, there is nothing to laugh at. Rich 
aspiring people, anxious to get on in the world and live with the 
best are a real blessing. They lavish their money on their 
houses, their furniture, b?‘ic-a-brac and pictures ; they give costly 
feasts ; they dress superbly; the secret dread in their hearts 
that they may fail in some nicety of etiquette makes them 
punctilious; and they are the most good-natured and obliging 
people in the World, hospitable to a fault. 

It is for these people, who sometimes act by deputy in the 
arranging of dances, dinners and balls and the issuing of invita¬ 
tions, that Fashions are made and books of etiquette written. 
Some fancy of dress approved by some queen of society 



V 

























































































































































































































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/ 






The Fashionable*Firms. 


369 


somewhere ; some extravagance in furniture or decoration ; some 
finical rule of good manners, is a sacred law to them. To drive 
solemnly about, leaving sheaves of cards at different houses, is 
a delightful occupation. The tasks, the thankless fatigues, of 
women familiar with Society from their childhood, are to them 
real pleasures. To entertain five hundred people, and have the 
list of notable persons present’ published in the morning papers 
(Oh, blessed Morning with all our names in type), is a labour 
which finds the sweetest rewards. 

London being the centre of the world’s civilization, in which, 
as it is needless to remark, Fashion fills an integrant and by no 
means inconsiderable part, its Temples are very freely distri¬ 
buted throughout the area of the great city. A cynic might, 
perhaps, be disposed to say that they are more numerous, 
frequented and popular than any other temples to be found 
within its limits. Regent Street, Bond Street and Piccadilly are 
almost wholly given over to them ; Oxford Street will be found 
to comprise not a few; and in most of the thoroughfares west¬ 
ward, the most conspicuous and attractive buildings are those 
where Ladies congregate to pay their respects to the Sovereign 
Queen, and to make themselves acquainted with the decrees from 
time to time issued by her ambassadors, ministers and agents. 

In brief, the Shops for Ladies comprise the principal part of 
the shops of London ; and if you wish to see the best of these, 
and the latest novelties direct from Paris, go into Regent Street, 
Bond Street, Piccadilly and Oxford Street. Go to the establish¬ 
ment of Messrs. Lewis & Allenby, for example, in Regent Street, 
or to Messrs. Redmayne, or Russell & Allen, in Bond Street, or 
Messrs. Marshall & Snelgrove, in Oxford Street, or Messrs. 
Debenham & Freebody, in Wigmore Street. A mere glance at 
the windows of these several establishments will suffice to 
assure you of the wealth of beautiful things to be found within, 
selected with infinite taste and care from the first factories in 
the world: silks, satins, velvets, brocades, laces, embroideries, 
ribbons flowers, shawls, etc., etc. 


370 


London of To-Day. 

Lewis & Allenby (Conduit Street and Regent Street) are 
among the oldest-established Silk Mercers of London whose 
reputation has run for at least fifty years. A survey of their 
window, on the west side of London’s most fashionable thorough¬ 
fare, will inform a lady of the many charming articles of dress 
to be purchased within. If you are tempted to enter, you will 
find, among other innumerable attractions, a well-arranged apart¬ 
ment, illuminated by the electric light, in which are displayed 
in judicious harmony, the latest examples of dresses for “ the 
Drawing-room” (we mean the Queen’s) or for evening wear 
at the State Concerts, the opera, the theatre and so on. These 
suffice to exhibit the latest decrees of Fashion, in the way of 
dresses for public occasions and social functions : so that she 
who comes that way may select dress, or gown (which is it ?), 
that has some chance of fulfilling its principal purpose, in setting 
off to the greatest possible advantage in a crowded room, let’s 
say at once, the crowning beauty of the wearer. To whatever 
inclinations your purse may tend, you may depend upon the fact 
that Messrs. Lewis & Allenby will find no difficulty in gratifying 
them within the limits of their establishment and business. 

At the western end of Conduit Street, having adjoining premises 
in Bond Street, the house of Redmayne & Co. may be found, 
likewise long and favourably known to the grand dames of the 
grand world. Here you may see no end of novelties in the 
shape of costumes, ball, dinner, and bridesmaids’ gowns, mantles, 
velvets, satins, lace, etc., and all other the necessary complements 
of a ladies’ attire. The opportunity will be afforded of choosing 
a gown from displayed models imported from Paris : and if you 
insist on what we, in newspaper phraseology, term “ the exclusive 
right,” why you may purchase that right, say in regard of some 
“ perfectly lovely ” dress of which any rival or other unworthy 
competitor would find it extremely difficult to find the duplicate 
in'London. Thus for a stipulated sum you might enjoy the dis¬ 
tinction of appearing at Ascot, in the Park, or at the Opera, 
or in the ball-rooms of Mayfair, without the apprehension of 


I 



28 


“ Lewis & Allenby are among the oldest-established Silk Mercers of London.” | [Seepage 370. 

























































































\ 


■ 







. 




















































nn u - I 







































































The Fashionable Firms . 371 

anywhere meeting a dress similar in design to your own : an 
undoubted privilege and one not to be under-estimated. 

Messrs. Marshall & Snelgrove, of Oxford Street, is another 
firm of first-rate repute, having a large and fashionable clientele 
among leaders of society. Here, of an afternoon in the Season 
(so we are informed by a lady of distinction) you will find, if you 
are curious in such matters, no inconsiderable section of the 


ROOM AT DEBENHAM & FREEBODY’S. 

representatives of Mayfair and Belgravia occupied in the^always- 
attractive business of shopping. You may then, by the exercise 
of a little ingenuity, ascertain the vogue at a glance, and obtain 
ldssons in style for nothing. 

In Wigmore Street is the extensive establishment of Debenham 
& Freebody; long established, and well known both as whole¬ 
sale and retail mercers. Their name is as familiar among the 
merchants and buyers of St. Paul’s and Queen Victoria Street, as 
in the fashionable quarters of London. You may buy anything 
you want here, • fronv.a dress of the newest fashion direct from 











372 


London of To-Day. 


Paris, to a sofa of Eastern stuff on which to display the dress to 
advantage in your drawing-room. 

It is not easy to refer in detail to the innumerable novelties 
such Firms as these display in their show-rooms in successive 
seasons. In dealing with either, ladies will be dealing with the 
leading houses of their class in West End London. “ Deben- 
ham’s ” have a considerable American connection which, seeing 
that American ladies are somewhat exigeant in obtaining what 
they require, and, perhaps, not too-easily accommodated (our 
old-fashioned and constrained ways of transacting business across 
the counter, not according precisely with the ways of Boston and 
New York, where no limit apparently is allowed to the endurance 
of any but the fair purchaser herself, though we are prepared to 
admit that our policy in this regard may be a shortsighted one) : 
this considerable patronage of American ladies says something 
for the general enterprise of the firm of Debenham & Freebody, 
and their desire to meet the requirements of every class of cus¬ 
tomer which honours them with its support. 

Of course there are many other places in London where Ladies 
will meet with ready and courteous attention, and a just recom¬ 
pense in kind for the value of their draft, or the contents of the 
little inner-pocket of their purse. 

There is Shoolbred’s, for example, in Tottenham Court Road, 
one of the most popular of the general retail stores of London: 
for mercery, drapery, millinery, dressmaking, furnishing, pro¬ 
visions; there are Harvey, Nichols, & Co. of Knightsbridge; 
Gorringe of Buckingham Palace Road ; Wallis & Co. of Holborn 
Circus; Tarn of Newington Causeway; Goode & Gainsford of 
High Street in the Borough ; and, of course, Whiteley, of West- 
bourne Grove, the principal attraction of whose establishment is 
its vastness. For the privilege of moving about in this vast 
emporium of retail commerce, ladies will journey from the 
uttermost ends of London. 

North of Hyde Park, on the east side of the Edgware Road 
(Nos. 150-153), a short distance from the familiar Marble Arch 


The Fashionable Firms. 


373 


is the large retail establishment of Messrs. Garrould, arranged on 
the plan of Shoolbred’s and similar places, where everything may 
be purchased in the way of ladies’ dress, millinery, silks, satins, 
lingerie , hosiery, bonnets, cloaks, jackets, boots, etc.; and every 
conceivable thing for the household in the shape of furniture, 
china, bric-a-brac , and so forth. This firm shows commendable 
enterprise in endeavouring to meet the requirements of ladies of 
economical tendencies; and not a few original ideas in the way 
of useful and comfortable articles of dress have emanated from 
them—a capital apron for artists among the number, and a most 
comfortable ladies’ waterproof dress and cloak combined. 

For “ Mourning ” (a depressing topic to touch upon, in this 
generally lively and careless work), there is no better authority 
in London than Jay of Regent Street—Jay’s, whose unmournful 
facade sometimes shows so brilliantly in the rare sunlight of a 
May morning at the Oxford Circus end of the leading thorough¬ 
fare. We have seen some beautiful dresses displayed at Jay’s 
during professional visits made to that establishment for purposes 
of this chapter: deep-mourning, half-mourning, quarter-mourning, 
one-eighth-of-an-inch mourning; lovely white-and-black; or 
violet-and-white; or pure white with rich bead-embroidery. 

For general effectiveness, commend us to a tight-fitting, black 
silk dress, shown on a woman of presence; a woman of good figure, 
good carriage, and interesting features. Messrs. Jay evidently 
themselves so very well know the admirable effect thus produced, 
that there is not a lady of their establishment who is not robed 
in this becoming costume. It is a pleasure we have persistently 
to deny ourselves, to go to this house of Mourning; but there is 
no reason why others may not go, and we hope, in all earnestness, 
on no mission of sadness. 

At the International Fur Store (Regent Street No. 163), or at 
the lesser establishment on the east side of that thoroughfare, 
under the same proprietorship, you may buy anything you require 
in the shape of furs, from a i,ooo-guinea coat or cloak, lined and 
faced with darkest Russian sable of finest quality, to a garment 


374 London of To-Day. 

lined with gennet, black in colour and low in price. Midway 
between the two, you may have a choice ot ermine (now again in 
vogue), astrakhan, seal-skin, silver fox, mink, beaver, bear, 
Thibet-goat: seal-skin to our mind, well-dyed, well-chosen and 
well-fitting, most becoming of the lot. 

Few things need a greater exercise of discretion, we are told, 
than the purchase of a garment in seal-skin. One that may look 

infinitely desirable at a low price will 
probably prove to be made of pieces, 
the fag-ends of whole skins. The 
second winter will show up its frag¬ 
mentary character in a way that is 
certain to disgust the purchaser. It 
is impossible to detect the substitu¬ 
tion of pieces for whole skins, since 
the jackets are never seen unlined, 
so that the joins are never visible. 
The only safe plan, for the unskilled 
in furs, is to place themselves in the 
hands of a good firm such as we name 
with a character to lose. 

Mr. Cook's (Oxford Street, 148) 
is an old-established business in the 
same line. His advertisement, to be 
found elsewhere, will suffice to re¬ 
mind readers of this chapter, that 
London admits of liberal selection 
of shops in almost every branch of 
trade; though of shops where furs may be purchased in lesser 
degree perhaps than all. Mr. Cook’s address, therefore, may 
be here noted, as that of an old-established house in the retailing 
of furs for ladies’ wear. 

Shawls being in some respects akin to furs, at all events as 
regards relative cost and usefulness, we may conveniently call 
attention to the place of Messrs. Farmer & Rogers (now under 









The Fashionable Firms. 


375 


direction of Messrs. George Gulley & Co.: the former many 
years the firm’s London representative), whose speciality lies in 
Indian Shawls. Here, if you will, you may buy Cashmere 
shawls of superb quality; shawls of Dacca manufacture; 
Rampore Chuddas; Indian, Tusseh and Corah silks, and Melida 
cloth for dresses ; Dacca muslin ; China crape shawls, and em¬ 
broideries, and Eastern productions for dress purposes of all 
kinds. 

For jewellery, Messrs. Hancock, London & Ryder, and 
Streeter, are of well-known reputation. Garrard, in the Hay- 
market, is the great silversmith of London. His is the place 
where Royalty, aristocracy, and the very wealthy go to make 
their choicer selections for birthday and wedding commemora¬ 
tions ; and we should say that, for grand services of plate, race 
and yachting cups, etc., he stands supreme in England. Elking- 
ton’s collection, Regent Street, is also a very instructive exhibition ; 
as also is Lambert’s, Coventry Street. 

On gems there is no better authority than Mr. Streeter, of 
New Bond Street. He has given the world some token of this 
in books, one of which is a very fund of information to the 
collector. As at the other great jewellers of the Bond Street 
quarter, “ Streeter’s ” best examples of the art of gem-cutting 
and setting, and of gold-working, are found exhibited in the 
cases within that establishment, and not in the windows. If 
there is anything new, interesting, or rare in London, in the 
shape of diamonds, rubies, emeralds and other gems of account, 
or in the fashion of displaying them, “ Streeter’s ” is the place 
where you will be most likely to see some good examples. 

Mr. Streeter sends us some interesting particulars as to where 
the Coloured Gems come from. The ruby he tells us stands 
first among these—“ the Queen of all such gems : ” the finest of 
which are found in Mozok, Upper Burma. The next quality 
come from Chantaboon and Krat in Siam. The pearl ranks 
next, and some of the finest are found on the N.-W. Coast of 
Australia. The emerald takes the next place,—the finest dark- 


London of To-Day. 


376 

green coloured stone being known as “ the Spanish emerald.” 
The only mines worked at present are those in the U.S. 
of Colombia; and few of rare quality are found there. The 
sapphire and star-sapphire are usually found in the same district 
as the ruby: some few in Cashmere and New Zealand. Opals 
come from Hungary, and the less rare kinds from Queensland and 
Western Australia. Of turquoises the finest come from Persia, 
Russia, and also Mexico. Semi-precious stones are found in 
all parts of the world. Mr. Streeter has displayed in cabinets 
an interesting collection of gems in the rough, and also models 
illustrating many famous historical and other diamonds. 

Some very pretty and tasteful things in the way of jewelry 
may be seen at Mr. George Edward’s, 62, Piccadilly, at the 
corner of Albemarle Street; and for what our recommendation 
may be herein worth, he has it, as at once courteous, obliging 
and ever-ready to render any civility to strangers. Originally 
of Glasgow, and later of Poultry within the confines of London 
city, Mr. George Edward has been long and favourably known 
in his branch of trade ; and there are few matters connected 
with it, in which he is not an expert. Visitors at Brown’s, 
St. George’s and the Burlington, and adjacent hotels of the 
Piccadilly and Bond Street locale , will find his place conveniently 
near. 

Lace, the most delicate and elaborate of textile fabrics—“ real 
lace ”—has always been a luxury coveted amongst women. An 
important branch of civilized industry, “ machine-made lace ” 
has now reached so great a perfection that many are content 
with this, in place of the expensive old kinds, which used to be 
a necessary part of a lady’s wardrobe. Those who still desire to 
have the triumphs of old design and taste, may obtain fine old 
lace of every kind from Blackborne, 35A, South Audley Street. 

And you may not only purchase old lace of beautiful design at 
Blackborne’s, neatest of West End millinery establishments, but 
dresses of charming design, in satins and silks, on which to 
display such lace. Mrs. Blackborne has excellent taste herself 



“There are some Lovely Things to be seen at Blackborne’s 
35, South Audley Street.” 





























The Fashionable Firms. 377 

in the fashioning of ladies’ costumes; and her husband is 
en rapport with the leading Parisian houses which make dress 

a speciality. There are some 
“ lovely things ” generally to be 
seen here in the shape of ball- 
and evening- gowns; dresses for 
the promenade ; mantles ; bon¬ 
nets ; hats ; hosiery ; and other 
dainty articles of a lady’s attire. 
We have seen two or three 
examples of wondrous work¬ 
manship in Mrs. Blackborne’s 
show-room, which even so great 
an artiste in costume as Sarah 
Bernhardt could hardly fail to 
view with satisfaction. 

It is unnecessary to say that, 
in a capital where Fashion’s 
votaries are so numerous and 
wealthy, there is abundant op¬ 
portunity for gratifying every 
personal taste, caprice, or whim 
in respect of style, make and 
material. You may simply copy 
the fashion, or you may succeed 
by a little ingenuity in leading it. If you are modestly content 
to follow, you may have your wants supplied at any one of a 
score of different shops open to the eye in any leading thorough¬ 
fare. If you are a little more ambitious and want to lead, you 
might, perhaps, take counsel of some one or other of the Leading 
Dressmakers—Kate Reily, for example ; or Miss Helen Metcalfe, 
of New Bond Street; Mrs. Mason, of New Burlington Street; or 
Miss Viney, of Holies Street; who are somewhat reserved in 
displaying dresses of their, or some one’s else, invention. 

Why, by the way, lady-traders should be at so much pains to 









3 yS London of To-Day. 

conceal that which (as one might suppose) the astute merchant 
would do his utmost to proclaim to the world—his particular art, 
craft, mystery, or calling, namely ; and his personal proficiency in 
either or each—this is one of those little curiosities of present- 
day London retail trading which baffles dissection with our blunt- 
pointed pen. This business, however, is none of ours. Each one 
knows his own best, ourselves included ; so let’s proceed. 

Among the many establishments at the West End of the town, 
opened by a lady for the behoof of ladies, is Madame Kate 
Reily’s in Dover Street (Nos. H and 12). Her establishment 
on the east side of the street, noticeable from without for its 
modern facement of red-brick, and general architectural neatness, 
in respect of its internal economy, is very thoroughly looked 
after. Madame herself supervises every detail of the manage¬ 
ment ; and it is satisfactory to record that her work-people have 
the advantage of her personal oversight, which judging from 
what we have seen of the Dover Street establishment should be 
productive of beneficial results in the way of comfort and whole¬ 
some conditions of work for her employes. 

The results we have been taught to expect in the “ladies for 
ladies ” scheme are—a nicer discrimination in the matter of 
dresses, robes and gowns ; a more pronounced “personality” in 
their selection (by which we suppose is intended the adapta¬ 
tion of the style to the individual); and less dependence upon 
Fashion, simply because Fashion happens to have the upper 
hand. Very excellent ends to be attained. 

One purpose in going to the Dover Street establishment (if you 
are in New York you will find its counterpart in Fifth Avenue, 277) 
is to be advised. The fashions are all here direct from Paris—the 
materials, the satins, the silks, the laces and embroideries; and 
of course the Lady-principal herself. What is it to be ? This 
dress is for the Drawing-room; that for a ball at my Lady So- 
and-So’s; the other is to figure on the lawn at Ascot; a fourth is 
of the colour and fashion of a dress worn by a beautiful and 
exalted personage at the last garden-party at Marlborough House ; 



Afternoon Shopping in Regent Street. 












































































































































































































































































< 















The Fashionable Firms. 


379 


a fifth forms part of the trousseau of an American belle presently 
to be led to what we were wont to call “the hymeneal altar,” 
in the dingy, yellowy, old church in Hanover Square—a very 
beautiful display that only a lady’s pen might do justice to. With 
you, it is all a matter of present requirements and of money. 
With Madame Kate Reily it is all a matter of style, of finish, and 
of effect; albeit the incidental pecuniary consideration will be 
taken due account of in the negotiation. 

Madame White and Madame Elise, of Regent Street; Nicole ; 
Madame Oliver Holmes ; and Worth & Co., of New Bond Street 
(134); are not indifferent to the advantage of publishing their 
several vocations to the world at large. Their shop-windows are 
set-out in the usual way with tempting examples of costumes 
gowns, embroideries, laces, and so on, of the latest and most 
approved style. 

Those, however, who are imbued with, what is said to be, the 
supreme feminine passion, thrift, will not have recourse to the 
Leading Dressmakers. Each of these has some well-recognized 
distinctive merit; but the style of their establishments, their 
expensive models, and the number of their employes, put cheap¬ 
ness out of the question ; except in so far, that the best articles 
are generally allowed to be the cheaper in the long run. If a 
Court dress is required, or a dinner- or day- gown “ out of the 
common,” as ladies say, perfectly finished, and of the newest 
fashion and materials, the purchaser should not hesitate, but go to 
some one of the best dressmakers or leading West End firms ; 
presupposing, however, that she is prepared to pay for the fit, 
style and finish she may rely upon obtaining. 

Madame Swaebe, of New Burlington Street (9), has extensive 
show-rooms. In the course of the Season every novelty in Court, 
Wedding, Evening, and Morning Gowns are to be seen here, 
prepared not only for dwellers in England, but for Americans 
and sojourners in India and our many colonial possessions, where 
this lady has established an unrivalled reputation. 

It is to Hamilton & Co., of Regent Street, we are told, that 


380 , 


London of To-Day. 


ladies go for those triumphs of needlework, smocked frocks and 
smocked tea-gowns. But it is by no means only in so-called 
artistic dresses that the firm excel. A French dressmaker ensures 
good fit; and some of the most beautiful materials with which 
Morris’s name and those of leading French firms are associated, 
have been made up here into gowns. 

Madame Kenvin, in William Street; Madame Dust, in Brook 
Street; Miss Durrant and Madame Marie Carroll, in Bond Street; 
Madame Festa, in Carlos Street; Madame C6ciLe, in Duke 
Street; Madame Maynier, in Wigmore Street; Madame Boubong, 
in Conduit Street; Madame Durand, in Orchard Street; Mrs. 
Stuart, of Somerset Street; Miss Ellis, of Queen Anne Street; 
and Miss Kates, of Hinde Street, come under the classification 
of leading Chamber Dressmakers. These all have customers 
among women in the best society. Madame Antonine, Court 
Dressmaker, of 96, Regent Street, who shows excellent taste, 
should also be named. 

Cresser, in George Street, Hanover Square; G. Sykes, 286, 
Regent Street, who has a reputation for tailor-gowns, jackets 
and ulsters, Colonial outfits, visiting- and evening- gowns, trous¬ 
seaux , etc.; and Whittingham & Humphrey, in Cromwell Place, 
are among the many firms where men devote their energies to the 
fashioning of women’s dress. 

In the department of Millinery, women of rank are found 
ready to traffic; and what more dainty occupation for any 
woman ? “ Lierre ” (in Park Street) is the name in which a 

well-known woman of fashion has opened a Millinery esta¬ 
blishment without any effort to conceal her own. She has 
hitherto managed to secure the latest novelties as quickly as, if 
not quicker than, those long established in the trade; and her 

customers have the advantage of knowing that she not only 
* 

possesses the taste of a highly-cultivated lady, but from her 
social rank must be cognizant of what is worn by those, who, 
if they do not make the fashions, decide in their own persons 
what is “good form.” Mrs. Cooper-Oakley, Bond Street; Mrs. 


The Fashionable Firms . 


38 i 

Kerr, Duke Street; Madame Le Breton, Wigtnore Street; Mrs. 
Courtenay, Oxford Street,—are other gentlewomen of good 
family and position similarly occupied. Madame Lili, another 
star in the fashionable world, pursues the same calling in 
Grafton Street with success. 

Mrs. Edwards’s, of Hobart Place, is one of many private 
millinery businesses patronized by well-dressed people. Among 
the leading shops where bonnets and hats are sold are Brown’s, 
in Bond Street. They have a style of their own, and “ quite 
English, you know; f ’ in which respects their hats find much 
favour with the smartest people of the day. Brandon, whose 
inspirations hail principally from Paris, has an establishment 
in Oxford Street which is worth the notice of all ladies who 
desire to appear in the mode. Mrs. Smyth, of Regent and 
Bond Streets; Madame Gautier; Asser, of the Burlington 
Arcade; are to be named as noteworthy among such shops for 
ladies. 

For ladies’ gloves, Frederick Penberthy, of 390, Oxford Street, 
has a reputation. As a good deal of discrimination is shown 
to-day in their selection and costume-adaptability, and the 
matter of their fit is become a nice point with most ladies who 
bestow attention upon dress (and what lady of to-day does 
not ?), it may be found useful to note the address of one, among 
others in London, who gives special attention to this sweet 
article of commerce. 

There is a pretty verse of Ben Jonson’s, by the way, familiar, 
doubtless, to gentlemen who, in the manner of his late Majesty 
George IV., treasure these reminiscences of ballrooms, bal¬ 
conies, and other eligible places of seclusion, which might 
suggest the generous replacement of a borrowed glove, by a 
dozen of Mr. Penberthy’s very best Paris six-button kid, deftly 
laid in a box, duly inscribed and perfumed. The verse and the 
borrowed glove might lie on the top ; then who knows what 
might happen ? 

For dresses for walking purposes, Redfern of Conduit and 

2 9 


382 London of To-Day. 

Bond Streets (with branch houses at the yachting-station of 
Cowes, in the Isle of Wight, at Paris, and in New York), has 
probably the first reputation in England. At all events, he may 
fairly claim to be the originator of the “ Tailor-made ’' dress for 
women : and he deserves generous praise for the design, for 
there is hardly an example of women’s costume worn, more 
sensible in its method or pleasing in its appearance. Unlike 
most other fashions, it has now held its own for years: the fact 
being that no dressmaker in the world ever succeeded in im¬ 
proving upon the natural contour of the figure of a young and 
graceful woman. And even for ladies no longer young or grace¬ 
ful, these tailor-made dresses are far more sightly and pleasing to 
the eye, than huge bundles of draped silk or satin; if women 
would but believe that ces messieurs , their natural enemies but 
honestest and most impartial critics, thought thus. 

For ladies’ Riding-habits, there is no firm more favourably 
known than that of E. Tautz & Sons, of 485, Oxford Street 
(south side towards, and not far from, Hyde Park), It has long 
maintained a high reputation for everything of account among 
gentlemen in the hunting=field and military men ‘ as breeches, 
coats, boots, leggings, over-alls, cavalry pantaloons, knickerbocket 
breeches and so forth. There is a Department attached to its 
larger establishment, where a lady measurer and fitter is employed, 

- whose particular business it is to wait upon lady-patrons. This 
firm has, for many years past, devoted its sole attention to this 
special branch of trade ; and in it has few equals in England. 
Whitaker (of Conduit Street, 43); and Wolmershausen, 48 & 49, 
Curzon Street, Mayfair, have also a first-rate reputation for 
ladies’ habits. 

There are other makers of men’s clothes who are proud to cater 
for the fair sex: Busvine; Smith; and Smalpage (of Maddox 
Street); Macdougall (of Sackville Street, 42); Kennedy (of 
Regent Street); Hulbert Beach (of Sloane Street); whose gowns 
and cloaks put in an appearance at most of the fashionable gather¬ 
ings in London, and the smartest house parties in the country. 


The Fashionable Firms. 383 

At 13, George Street, Hanover Square, is the Ladies’ Depart¬ 
ment of Mr. J. W. Dore’s business, a place where all the more 
recent fashions in the shape of Habit-cloths, coatings, and 
“ Tweeds ” for ladies’ gowns, jackets, coats, and ulsters may 
be studied; and withal a very capital invention, adapted to 
wet-weather-wear, known as “rainproof-hygienic clothing,” for 
which he has earned reputation. He also is among those at the 
West End who make a speciality of tailor-made gowns, and 
devotes a good deal of personal attention to the business of 
following the fashions in that item of women’s attire. 

Samuel Brothers, of Ludgate Hill, have a popular reputation 
for certain classes of work, among which, ladies may be glad to 
know, boys’ clothing is included. We do not know of any place 
in London where boys may be “rigged out” more economically 
or expeditiously. They also have a large general business as 
outfitters, in which is included a department for ladies’ jackets, 
coats, riding-habits, etc. 

For under-linen of the best kind, Mrs. Jane Mason (the 
firm now carried on under the auspices of Messrs. Marshall 
& Snelgrove); Blackborne, of South Audley Street; Mrs. Marsh, 
in Sloane Street; and Edmonds & Orr, of Wigmore Street, 
are among the leading providers. 

To know where to buy good and neat boots and shoes is 
another useful point of information. We cannot do better than 
advise ladies who wish to see the neatest and prettiest things 
in these necessaries of life and locomotion, to have recourse to 
Messrs. Hook, Knowles, & Co. (66 & 65, New Bond Street), 
who have the first reputation in their special line in London. 
They are largely patronized by American ladies, who next, 
perhaps, to the French, display the greatest taste in such 
matters. 

Box, of 187, Regent Street, and Atloff & Norman, 69, New Bond 
Street, are also in the first rank of their craft, patronized by 
persons of social distinction, who devote some attention to this 
indispensable item of dress. 


384 London of To-Day. 

For Riding-hats, and such other examples of head-covering 
as ladies affect, fashioned on those commonly worn by men, 
you will find Henry Heath’s, 105-107-109, Oxford Street, a good 
place to go to. He is particularly enterprising in inventing 
and making the lightest and easiest hats for ladies’ wear, in 
silk, velvet, cloth or felt. 

Articles of dress made on hygienic principles are to be ob¬ 
tained of Mrs. Franks in Mortimer Street, W.; boneless stays, 
woollen under-garments, and dresses cut to prevent any undue 
pressure in any part of the frame, or any weight from the 
shoulders. 

For all the false tresses and necessary additions to the coiffure, 
Lichtenfeld of Great Castle Street; Bond of Oxford Street; and 
Sobocinski of Sidney Place, Leicester Square, may be consulted. 
If the hair is needed to be dressed, singed, shampooed in addition, 
there are Truefitt, Douglas, Unwin & Albert, and others. 

For perfumes a leading firm is that of Bailey, of Cockspur 
Street, near Charing Cross. 

In Regent Street, Bond Street, and other thoroughfares, 
innumerable articles de luxe may be seen and bought. No lady- 
visitor will pass the establishments of Liberty & Co., of Regent 
Street, treasure-houses of fancy. English ladies owe a good deal 
to the enterprise of Liberty, who taught them how to decorate 
themselves, their children, halls, drawing-rooms, boudoirs, bed¬ 
rooms, at a cost within the means of the most moderately- 
endowed housewife. Why, half our London suburban houses 
are furnished with advertisements of Liberty’s enterprise: pea¬ 
cocks’ feathers, coverlets, curtains, fans of every variety of hue 
and shape, bric-a-brac oddities of every kind ; pretty and the 
reverse ; Oriental mats, rugs, chairs, tables, tea- cups and -pots, 
and we know not what else. Our own modest drawing-room 
is replete with Liberty wares, so that personally we would 
fain occasionally find less restraint in moving hither and thither, 
albeit the eye is sufficiently satisfied, and everyone doubtless 
save our own splenetic self. 






















» ’ 



































Gallery,” 155, New Bond Street. 


“The ^Esthetic 



























































The Fashionable Firms. 385 

The ^Esthetic Gallery, a new feature of New Bond Street (155), 
contains a charming collection of fabrics, silks, satins and em¬ 
broideries, Oriental and otherwise, suitable for ladies’ and 
children’s costumes; and for curtains, sofa and chair covers, 
and decorative purposes generally. Its proprietor, Mr. F. B. 
Goodyer has arranged one or two exhibitions at the Gallery, 
which exhibitions he proposes periodically to continue. These 
are exceptionally interesting, alike for their novelty and the 
discriminating selection of the several things shown. The 
visitor will generally find some charming examples of Indian, 
Chinese and Japanese soft draping satins and silks which it 
would be difficult to surpass for richness of colour and excel¬ 
lence of manufacture. It is a feature of Mr. Goodyer’s business 
that the fabrics he shows are of Home manufacture. There are 
“ Cashmeres ” for example, dyed at Paisley; cushions, table¬ 
cloths, lamp- and candle- shades, etc., manufactured at Maccles¬ 
field ; rich brocaded silks and velveteens, from Lancashire. His 
tasteful collection is well worthy the inspection of the critical ; 
and there are few places of the kind in London more likely to 
captivate ladies. 

For pretty things and useful things in the way of artistic 
needlework, you might try the Royal School of Art Needlework 
at South Kensington, having a depot on a smaller scale at No. 174, 
Regent Street. Its collection of novelties of every kind in this 
department of work is of first-rate excellence; so indeed are its 
exhibits of tapestries. 

For cambrics, damasks, linens and such like articles of the 
household, you might have recourse to the firm of Walpole 
Brothers, of 89, New Bond Street, well known as Belfast manu¬ 
facturers for over a hundred years, with a branch establishment 
in Dublin. Here you may procure anything in the shape of 
Irish linens, and cambric handkerchiefs of the finest. 

An alternative house in the same*trade may be found at No. 130, 
New Bond Street, under the designation of the National Linen 
Company, which likewise makes a speciality of Irish household 


386 


London of To-Day . 


and table linen, sheetings, etc., and for which it also has an 
excellent reputation. 

For ladies’, gentlemen’s, and children’s umbrellas, there is no 
firm better known in London than Sangster & Co., of 140, 
Regent Street. They have long held the lead as manufacturers 
of these articles; and it would be difficult to find anywhere a 
more varied assortment than you will find here. 

Gunter’s are the great London cooks and confectioners whence 
come the wedding-cakes and the wedding-feasts of princes and 
other exalted personages, the State dinners of Ministers, and no 
inconsiderable number of the fashionable Ball suppers of the 
London Season. 

Messrs. Buszard & Co., 197, Oxford Street, have an almost world¬ 
wide reputation for wedding-cakes. A few years since it was 
rumoured that this old-time memorial of the wedding-day was 
in the way of being abolished. To judge from what we have 
seen of this well-known birthplace of so many cakes we should 
say that that exquisite token of bridehood is likely to survive to 
the end of time. Let the visitor walk within and judge for 
herself. Buszard’s is a pleasant resting-place on a summer’s 
afternoon, when ices are refreshing inducements to the weary ; 
and the Firm itself may be recommended to all and sundry, 
as caterers of first-rate reputation for breakfasts, luncheons, 
dinners and suppers. 

A noticeable shop in Regent Street (east side) is that of the 
American confectionery store, belonging to Mr. Fuller, of 
Buffalo, U. S. A. As might be expected, it attracts a large share 
of the patronage of ladies who love such delectable compounds 
as the Americans show so deft a hand in mixing. For dessert 
and supper purposes this American confectionery is not merely 
tempting to the taste, but effective in the way of buffet and table 
decoration. 

The most noted depot for bouquets and table and ball decora¬ 
tions among the leaders of fashion is Mrs. Green’s, in Crawford 
Street, W, 


11 & 12 , Dover Street, Piccadilly, 

AND AT 

277, Fifth Avenue, New York, 

AND 

1305, Michigan Avenue, Chicago. 


MADAME KATE REILY. 


THE BEST HOUSE IN LONDON 

FOR THE 

LATEST FRENCH AND ORIGINAL ENGLISH FASHIONS, 

IN 


COSTUMES, MANTLES, 
MILLINERY, LINGERIE, TROUSSEAUX, 
AND LAYETTES. 


SPECIALLY RENOWNED FOR COURT 
TRAINS. 


Madame Reily is patronized bythe cream 
of Society, and supplied a portion of the 
Trousseau of H.R.H. the DUCHESS OF 
FIFE, 


Spanish Depot 


WHOLESALE & RETAIL LACE & OUTFITTING WAREHOUSE. 



A. Blackborne & Co. 


BEG most respectfully to inform the Nobility and their 
Customers generally that they have now opened the 
following departments — viz., Dressmaking, Millinery 
and Mantles, in addition to their old - established 
business of Antique and Modern Laces, Outfitting for 
India and Colonies, Silk Hosiery, Trousseaux, Layettes, 
Head-dresses and Caps. 

Specialities in Handkerchiefs of every kind, from 
the plainest to the most costly. 


ESTIMATES GIVEN IN EVERY CASE. 


35, SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, W. 






THE NATIONAL LINEN CO., 

130, NEW BOND STREET, W. (^JTslet.) 

Established in 1845. 


IRISH, SCOTCH AND BARNSLEY HOUSEHOLD LINENS 

of every description, direct from the Looms. 


HEMSTITCHED SHEETS AND PILLOW-CASES 

in Irish Needlework. 


The House is also noted for A SPECIAL MAKE of BLACK 
SILKS, which is guaranteed to wear. 

HOSIERY IS KEPT IN THE BEST MAKES ONLY, AND SHETLAND GOODS 

IN GREAT VARIETY. 

A NEW OUTFITTING DEPARTMENT has recently been added, in 
which French Novelties in Tea-gowns and Jackets, Ladies’ and 
Children’s Underclothing, Baby-linen, etc., are shown. 

Patterns and Price Lists Post Free. 

NATIONAL LINEN CO,, 130, NEW BOND STREET, W. 


Four Prize Medals (London and Paris) have been awarded to 

Messrs. ATLOFF & NORMAN, 


69, NEW BOND STREET, W. 



Ladies’ and Gentlemen’s Hunting, Shooting, and Walking Boots and Shoes 

of all descriptions. 

A good assortment of Evening Shoes kept ready ; and Ladies’ own materia’s 
made up at a tew hours’ notice for Plain or Fancy Dress. 

Also the AMERICAN GOLD and SILVER Kid Shoes, ORIGINALLY INTRODUCED 
and MANUFACTURED by us. 

Can he obtained at above address, and most West End Bootmakers, The 
Patent Desideratum: Shoe-lace Clasp, the simplest and most eftectual yet 
introduced. Sample Pair Post Free, Sixpence. 




























icmLum. 1746. 

LONDON, 1891. 

MORTLOCK’S 

POTTERY GALLERIES. 

FOUNDED A.D. 1746. 


PORCELAIN and GLASS. 


The collection at present displayed, in the extensive Galleries of 
Mortlock’s, exhibits beautiful examples of artistic talent, of the 
resources of combined industry, intelligence and skill; and fittingly 
maintains the high reputation and pre-eminence enjoyed by Mort¬ 
lock’s during the last century and a half. 

The stock strikingly illustrates the remarkable development during 
recent years of technical knowledge in the manufacture of Porcelain, 
Pottery and Glass, and shows a judicious and refined application of 
colours and gold harmoniously combined. It also includes all the 
newest and most beautiful designs and models exemplified by the 
various schools of art. In ornamental Porcelain an endless variety of 
shapes are represented, the styles embracing the finest specimens of 
the Pate-sur-Pat6, Minton, Cauldon, Spode, Royal Worcester, Wedg¬ 
wood, Coalport, and Crown Derby. 


466, 468, 470, OXFORD STREET,) 
31, 32, ORCHARD STREET, J 


LONDON, W. 

















SHOPS FOR GENTLEMEN. 



^pectaffg (pafrontefi 6g 

Her Majesty the Queen. 

H.E.H. the Prince of Wale*. 

H.E.H. the Princess of Wales. 

H.l.M. the Empress Victoria of Germany. 
fl.E.H. the Duke and Duchess of Connaughfe 
H.E.H. the Princess Beatrice. 

The Empress Eugenie. 

The Imperial Family of Germany. 

The Imperial Family of Eussia. 

The Eoyal Family of the Netherlands. 
The Eoyal Family of Denmark. 

Toe Eoyal Family of Belgium. 

The Eoyal Family of 8pain. 

The Eoyal Family of 8wedei»i 
6c.. &o. 



AND GENTLEMEN’S 


HATS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 




NEW TRAVELLING BAGS, 

FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN. 



TARTAN PLAID RUGS 

IN ALL THE CLANS. 



SPECIALITIES IN WATERPROOFS 

AND TRAVELLING CLOAKS 




ONLY ADDRESS, facing Newman Street. 























39i 



Chapter XL. 

SHOPS FOR GENTLEMEN. 

k ave heard it said 
' that there are six prin¬ 
cipal ways in which a gentle¬ 
man aims at dressing well, 
according to which namely, 
of the following objects he 
pursues :— 

1. To be like the “best set.” 

2. To appear “well off.” 

3. To avoid remark. 

4. To court remark. 

5. To set off his figure to the best advantage. 

6. To proclaim his favourite taste, as in art, athletics, horses, etc. 
And for success in any of these aims, a man should first put 

himself under the following inquisition:— 

1. Who am I ? 

2. What’s my age ? 

3. Where am I going ? 

4. What to do ? 

5. What’s the time of year, and day ? 

6. What the weather ? 

Upon due consideration of the answers to these appropriate 
questions, he may turn to and dress ; of course having first taken 
counsel of the appointed professors in the several schools, and 
fully furnished his wardrobe upon their advice, and, if he be wise, 
from their considerable resources. 

Of schools in London there is no end. There are the joint- 
schools, for example, of Savile Row, Conduit, Maddox, Bond, 








392 


London of To-Day. 


and St. James’s Streets ; there is the school of Regent Street; 
there are the schools of the Strand, Fleet Street and Ludgate 
Hill; there are the accommodating, generally convenient and 
liberally endowed schools of the City ; and there are the minor 
“ private-adventure ” schools of the suburbs. 

The undergraduate student may have his choice of any of 
these. The first are hardly for the poor man ; but if he can afford 
the necessary preliminary outlay, he is “cocksure” at least, of 
a “ pass,” possibly “ honours; ” the second might be selected 
upon discriminating advice from some full-fledged graduate; the 
third are inexpensive, but not altogether up to the best modern 
standards ; the fourth offers splendid opportunities with careful 
preliminary, observation and inquiry (a friend on the Stock 
Exchange might prove an invaluable aid) ; the fifth are not to be 
depended upon, and are mostly weak in the way of illustrative 
capability. 

We may offer a few general directions for the guidance of the 
hopeful student who comes to London to seek his degree. 

Let him remember that dressiness is to dress what staginess 
is to the stage; it defeats its own end. Follow the fashion ; but 
at a respectful distance. Keep your eyes about you, and note 
the manner of “ the Row,” especially in the Season. Restrict your 
original researches to the West End of the town. Be wary of 
the too-captivating contents of a tailor’s window. Choose your 
material with deliberation ; and only after allowing full weight to 
the incidental critical comments and suggestions of the professor. 
Let the learned gentleman talk, and do you profit by his observa¬ 
tions. Never fear of appearing too fastidious in the department 
of “ trying-on.” A somewhat exacting pupil shows promise. 

To come to details: In the matter of coats, a silk-lining is a 
thing to be commended. It discovers an elegant taste, and is 
intimately connected with rank and riches. A nice sense of the 
fitness of the trouser should be very carefully cultivated ; the cut 
and fashion of a gentleman’s trousers are, we are disposed to 
think, of even greater importance than the style of his coat. Be 


393 


Shops for Gentlemen . 

very choice in the selection of your pattern ; and remember, he 
is a wise man who does not exaggerate the length of his own 
leg. Dark material for a short and stout man ; light material (if 
he will) for a long and thin man. 

A gentleman cannot be too particular in the fashion of his 
boots. The boots do, indeed, proclaim the man. “ Show me a 
man’s boots, and I will tell you what that man is.” Has not 
Mr. Furniss described the personality of the House of Commons 
by means of a diagram of boots ? The managing director of the 
lower department of a hotel can estimate to a sixpence the 
aggregate of his daily “ tips ” by a mere glance at the soles and 
uppers of the boots left outside bedroom doors for his collection. 
When he places the mark of his chalk upon a sole, he instinc¬ 
tively values the personal resources of its owner. You cannot 
be too discerning in the selection of your boots; and it is money 
well laid out to speculate in half a dozen good pairs by a good 
maker, each pair adapted to the occasion. 

As for your hat, let no consideration of mere personal comfort 
ever tempt you to appear in London in any other but the ortho¬ 
dox “ silk-hat ”—the “ tail-hat ” vulgarly so-called—when suitably 
dressed for the promenade. The low-crowned felt hat and 
short walking- or shooting- jacket if you will; but never the 
low-crowned felt hat and the frock coat. The low-crowned hat 
worn with the ill-balanced frock coat at once stamp the wearer 
as a “cad.” Why? No one has yet been able authoritatively 
to determine; but the fact nevertheless remains, that the low- 
crowned hat is an article of dress to be cast aside immediately 
the frock coat is assumed. 

As to shirts, scarves, gloves, handkerchiefs and stockings, a 
gentleman of taste cannot be too precise in making his selection. 
He should go to the very first authorities in London, among 
whom, Harborow of 15, Cockspur Street (near Charing Cross), 
“makers to the Royal Family,” and all the elite of the town, 
rank as the chief, and who alone “keep touch” with the best 
styles. Second-rate authorities will land him in all manner of 


394 


London of To-Day. 

ill-judged purchases ; the sixpenny necktie made up, for example ; 
shirts at 53-. 6 d. apiece (you cannot buy a shirt of fine linen for 
5.?. 6 d.}; silk and cotton handkerchiefs of the flimsiest; ill-cut 
gloves ; scarves of the music-hall fashion ; and stockings that 
shed tears of crimson dye in summer weather. 

In the matter of jewellery, a gentleman of fashion can hardly 
wear too little. Very little of watch-chain; not too much of 
watch; never diamonds but in evening dress; only a small 
quantity of gold ring, and the plainer the better; no immodest 
bracelets, curb fashion, or in any fashion ; a bashful show of 
scarf pin (a single stone preferable: an opal and diamonds on a 
black ground, or, better, a single pearl, say, illustrating one of 
Harborow’s choicest scarfs); no trinkets, seals, conundrums of 
any kind. 

Now for the professors of the Art of Dress in London, in the 
department of a gentleman’s wardrobe. First and foremost 
there is Poole; and then we should be inclined, to name Hill 
Brothers, of 3 & 4, Old Bond Street, of long-established repute 
among Army men, Naval men, all classes of men whose ideal in 
the way of Dress is of a high order, commanding respect among 
students of the mode. 

Then there are our old friends, Whitaker & Co., of 43, Conduit 
Street, flourishing in their business, first-rate artists, well-up in 
all that is transpiring in the “ best sets ” of London, Boston and 
New York, capital cutters of coats, unfaltering in the method 
of the trouser, very discriminating in the selection of material of 
the choicest; capital fashioners of a gentleman’s costume adapted 
(as he will) to the promenade, the road, the course the cover, 
the field, or (principal consideration of all perhaps) the drawing¬ 
room. Mr. Whitaker can advise you upon all the latest proprie¬ 
ties of dress, and turn you out in faultless style if you elect to 
consult him, and, withal, you will find Mr. Whitaker himself very 
courteous and obliging, ever ready to communicate to a patron 
all that is transpiring in the West End world of Fashion in 
respect of patterns and style, 


Shops for Gentlemen . 395 

Of other fashionable tailors of the West End of London 
the following may be considered a fairly representative list: 
Wolmershausen, of 48 and 49, Curzon Street, Mayfair, first-rate 
makers of gentlemen’s and ladies’ clothing, and much appre¬ 
ciated by leaders of Fashion; William Buckmaster & Co., 3, New 
Burlington Street; Cutler & Reed, 24, 25, St. James’s Street; 
Davis, of Waterloo Place; Kerslake, of Hanover Street. At 
either of these establishments the visitor may be sure of being 
turned out “one of the best-dressed men in London,” if that 
should be an object of his ambition. As for prices, a ten-pound 
note will carry a man a long way in securing a suit of clothes 
made in the latest fashion. 

Messrs. Smalpage & Son, of Maddox Street (41-43), are also 
of the first rank in the craft; of many years’ standing; well-known 
as “one of the best tailors in London,” to which general 
testimonial we can personally and emphatically subscribe. We 
have known the firm for twenty years. 

Of Mr. J. W. Dore, 25, Conduit Street, we can also personally 
testify. He aims at retailing a thoroughly good article at a 
moderate price; and he is au fait in all that pertains to his 
business, from the fashion of the scarlet dress-coat, white satin 
waistcoat and gold-laced trousers, which the present Season 
promises, to waterproof clothing on hygienic principles invented 
by himself and adapted to outdoor wear in every season having 
its due proportion of wet weather. Mr. Dore’s prices, as we 
say, are generally more moderate than those of some of his 
competitors. 

Those journeying Citywards, or having avocations in the City, 
will find Woodman & Bailey, of London Wall (No. 43), a 
noticeable building on the right side, three or four doors east of 
Moorgate Street, deserving notice. They have a numerous and 
influential clientele among stockbrokers and merchants of the 
City and we need hardly remind the reader that such gentlemen 
do not undervalue the advantage of being well-dressed before 
the world. Woodman and Bailey’s advertisement is to be found 

30 



London of To-Day. 


elsewhere; but we may add, that their business is very fairly 
carried on. The firm gives its customers the full advantage their 
ready-money merits. They choose their cloth, they see its price 
marked in plain figures, they give their order, and, on its com¬ 
pletion, they get io per cent, discount on payment of their 
account. And what is more, the cloths, cut, and make of this 
firm are very good indeed. 

An American friend of long standing speaks highly of Mr. 
Hagelmann of Argyll Street, near Regent Circus, as a maker of 
“very durable and fashionable clothing,” such as all of us are 
glad to possess, whether with well-filled or ill-provided purses. 

The foregoing addresses allow of ample latitude in the selection 
of your tailor. We might 
publish a thousand more ; 
but an extension of the 
list would only perplex 
the reader, who, if he 
cannot make up his mind 
may, for purposes of selec¬ 
tion, turn to the pages of 
the Post Office London 
Directory, or walk through 
any of London’s streets. 

Messrs. Harborow’s, of 
Cockspur Street (No. 15), 
as we have heretofore 
noted, may be recom¬ 
mended as one of the 
leading shops in West 
End London for shirts, 
collars, handkerchiefs, 
scarves, gloves, and all 
other the necessary equip¬ 
ment of a gentleman in 
these particulars. It is extensively patronized by a class of well- 


HaRBOROW’s IS THE FlRM FOR SHIRTS. 




397 


Shops for Gentlemen. 



dressed men, with whose appearance even the most fastidious 
and correct eye would find it difficult to detect a flaw. You 
will nowhere buy better things than they supply. They show 
excellent taste, and what they sell is thoroughly to be relied on. 
This is one of the oldest firms in London. 

Its principal competitors are Beale & Inman, 131 & 132, New 
Bond Street; Capper & Waters, 26, Regent Street, Waterloo 
Place; Lodge & Oliver, 156, Regent Street; Henry Ludlam, 
174, Piccadilly; Sampson & Co., 268 & 270, Oxford Street; 
Sandland & Crane, 55, Regent Street; Thresher & Glenny, of 
the Strand ; and Wheeler, of the Poultry. 

Hook, Knowles, & Co., 65, 66, New Bond Street (probably 
the first maker of ladies’ boots in Lon¬ 
don) ; Thomas & Son, of St. James’s ^ 

Street; Dobbie, 198, Piccadilly; Hoby 
& Co., of Pall Mall; Lobb, of St. James’s 
and Regent Streets; Osborne & Co., of 
387, Oxford Street, good makers and 
charging moderately — all first-rate manu- v|\ v \ 

facturers of English boots. 

We may dismiss 
the subject of the 
Hat thus : If west¬ 
ward, by all means 
go to Mr. Herbert 
Johnson (son of the 
late managing part¬ 
ner of Lincoln, 

Bennett, & Co., 
and himself for 
seventeen years 
with that firm), who 
has his place at 45, 

New Bond Street. 

His father was one of the best known and appreciated of leading 













398 


London of To-Day. 

West End tradesmen; always courteous and obliging; and the 
son is no less so and every way deserving of your patronage. 
He is a most capable and painstaking professor in this depart¬ 
ment of Dress, and is credited with being one of the most 
successful. 

In the other direction, eastward of Regent Circus, at Nos. 
105-107-109, Oxford Street, you will find Henry Heath’s larger 
establishment; a veritable magazine of Hats and various kindred 
parts of a gentleman’s wardrobe, where every style of head¬ 
covering may be studied, and every whim of a purchaser is duly 
taken account of in the matter of fitting and adapting. A wise 
man will always have his hat made for him, and not purchase 
it ready-made. Heath’s is a large manufactory of hats, and 
therefore at once admits of the most liberal order being readily 
completed. 

In the “ delicate ” and costly matter of jewellery, we cannot 
but call to mind Mr. George Edward, of Piccadilly (corner of 
Albemarle Street), as a man of knowledge and excellent taste, 
fair dealing, and well known to many customers in London and 
the North : a gentleman who always has an attractive show of 
the prettiest things suitable alike for a gentleman or a lady. 

Thus much on the essential parts of a Gentleman’s dress, and 
the Shops known to us in London where he may be sure of being 
dealt with fairly and honestly if he takes his custom their way. 

In respect of other matters, on which we have been from 
time to time consulted during the past six years, we venture 
our opinion with perhaps more diffidence. Still, if the Reader 
ask for it, what can we do but give him the best within our 
experience ? 

For cigars, Fribourg & Treyer, of the Haymarket; Benson 
& Co., of 61, St. Paul’s Churchyard ; Benson & Hedges, of 
Old Bond Street; Carlin, of Regent Street; Grunebaum, of Old 
Bond Street, are among the best-known retailers. Mr. Benson, 
of 61, St. Paul’s Churchyard, keeps a capital stock of the most 
popular brands. 


Shops for Gentlemen. 399 

On what other point do you desire to be informed ? Wines ! 
Well, this is our experience in regard to these, albeit our pur¬ 
chases are small, and we lay no claim to superior judgment (as 
some do) in the matter of vintages and age: we confess to a 
partiality for a good, sound glass of claret; and there our interest 
in wine ceases. The best wihes at the most reasonable price 
within our knowledge are those to be had from the cellars of 
the C. S. Co-operative Society, 28, Haymarket, This is our 
experience; quantum valeat. Perhaps Messrs. Hedges & Butler 
will say they could supply you just as well; so, perhaps, might 
Messrs. Gilbey & Co. We have tried all round, and now go to 
the Haymarket Store aforesaid for our wine. 

If you want to purchase anything in the carriage line, it is 
hardly necessary to advise you to look through Long Acre. 

For fur coats, rugs, and the like ; or for a little present of 
Russian sable, black fox, or silver otter, or any other matter of 
dress in the same line, for wife, sister, cousin, or anyone else, 
you cannot do better than to go to 163-165, Regent Street, the 
International Store which everyone knows. 

For field-glasses, telescopes, opera-glasses, and optical instru¬ 
ments generally, there is Mr. Steward, Optician, of the Strand, 
long and favourably known to riflemen, sportsmen and others 
for his excellent field-glasses, etc. 

For fishing-tackle, fishing-rods, and so on, there is the little 
shop in the Strand facing the Courts of Justice.—What is the 
name of the firm ? — Bowness. s 

For guns, there are the well-known firms of Purdey & Son, 
of South Audley Street; Westley Richards, of Bond Street; 
Grant, of St. James’s Street; Bland, of the Strand (corner of 
King William Street) ; and J. & W. Tolley, of Conduit Street. 
We believe Purdey has the first reputation in England, 


FURNISH THROUGHOUT. (***•) 


OETZMANN & CO., 

67 , 69 , 71 , 73 , 75 , 77 , & 79 , 

HAMPSTEAD ROAD, LONDON, 

{Near Tottenham Court Road and Gower Street Station,) 


Telegraphic Address: “OETZMANN, LONDON.” Telephone No. 7650. 


Illustrated Catalogue, the best Furnishing Guide extant, containing, “ How 
I Furnished my House for £120,” and other Articles on Artistic Furnishing, 
reprinted from The Lady, together with detailed description and prices of every 
item required in COMPLETE HOUSE - FURNISHING. Over 2,000 
Illustrations. Post Free ox Application - . 




HANDSOME INLAID WALNUT DAVENPORT. 

Fitted for Stationery, and with Drawers at 
side, top lined leather, 58s. 6d. 

HANDSOME WROUGHT-IRON TABLE LAMP, fitted with rich glas3 Container, 
best Duplex Extinguisher, Coloured Globe, &c., 38s. 6d. 


OETZMANN & CO., 

Labinet-makers, Upholsterers, Decorators and 
Complete House Furnishers, 


HAMPSTEAD ROAD 

(Near Tottenham Court Road and Gower Street Station). 

SHILLING CAB FARES from Charing Cross, Euston, King’s Cro-s 
St. Pancras and Waterloo Stations, Regent Street and Piccadilly Circus. 


















/ 



\ 

SOME OTHER 
SHOPS OF NOTE. 







IRISH LINENS SUPPLIED IN LONDON 

On precisely the same terms as in BELFAST, by 

\Af A I nm C DDHTUCDC who invite an Inspection of their IRISH LINENS 

VVALiULl DliU I H LIIO, of every descript ion, SAMPLES of which to- 




gether with PRICED CATALOGUE, arc sent 
POST FREE. As examples of their Prices, the 
following list is intended as an illustration :— 

CAMBRIC HANDKERCHIEFS—From 2/6 perdoz. 
DAMASK TABLE CLOTHS—2yds.sq.,from4/-each. 
DAMASK TABLE CLOTHS—24 „ „ 6/6 „ 

DAMASK TABLE CLOTHS—Larger sizes, at Pro¬ 
portionate Prices. [per doz. 

DAMASK BREAKFAST NAPKINS—From 3 6 
DAMASK DINNER NAPKINS—From 6/6perdoz. 
HUCKABACK TOWELLING—From Id. per yard. 
LINEN SHEETING—2 yards wide, 1/6 „ 

LINEN SHEETING—2J „ „ 2/6 

LINEN SHEETING—3 „ „ 3/0 „ 

PILLOW LINEN—lid. per yard. 

Crest, Monogram, or Coat of Arms Woven 
into the Best Irish Damask Table Linen, 
FREE OF EXTRA CHARGE, 

_ BY 

WALPOLE BROTHERS, 

Irish Linen and Damask: Manufacturers, 

80, NEW IS O \ It STREET, LONDON; 

BELFAST AND DUBLIN. 
ESTABLISHED A . D. 1776. 

Priced Catalogues, Samples, Estimates, etc., Post Free. 



FILAJC 


HAIYIPTON & SONS, 

AUCTIONEERS, HOUSE & ESTATE AGENTS, 

OFFICES: 8 & 9, PALL MALL EAST, S.W. 


LONDON HOUSES. 

HAMPTON & SONS have for SALE and LETTING, Unfurnished or Fur¬ 
nished, for Long or Short Terms, a large SELECTION of MANSIONS and 
SMALLER HOUSES, in all the most Fashionable Parts of London, including 
Mayfair, Belgravia, Hyde Park, Cadogan Estate, South Kensington, Portman 
Square, St. James’s, Portland Place, Bayswater, Hampstead, and the Regent’s 
Park. 


COUNTRY HOUSES. 

HAMPTON & SONS’ LIST is Published on the First of each Month, and 
contains Descriptions (from Personal Inspections) of ESTATES, SHOOTINGS, 
FISHINGS, and COUNTRY HOUSES TO BE LET, Furnished and Unfurnished. 


WHITEHALL COURT FLATS. 

These Magnificently Appointed FLATS, facing the River, and admitted to 
be the finest in Europe, are TO BE LET. UNFURNISHED. Messrs. HAMP¬ 
TON & SONS are the Sole Agents, and their Representative will show the 
Remaining Unlet Suites, on application at the Office on the Premises, White¬ 
hall Court, S.W. 












Chapter XLI. 


SOME OTHER SHOPS OF NOTE. 



' I 'HERE are, as a matter of 
course, other things one 
may want in London besides 
articles of Dress. We might 
enumerate not a few within 
the compass of our own re¬ 
quirements ; but to gratify all 
his wants one must needs be 
possessed of more than a fair 
share of money. There is 
hardly a street in the West 
End of London that does not 
daily tempt to an opening of 
the purse, if prudence did not 
stay the hand. Regent Street 
alone might empty it every 
day for a year; and leave 
nothing to expend on the 
innumerable attractions and 
novelties of Bond Street and 
Piccadilly. Oxford Street, and 
the adjacent streets westward, 
as Wigmore and Orchard 
Streets, make a very fasci¬ 
nating show of pretty things; and even in the unfashionable 
district of Tottenham Court Road, much is exhibited to the way¬ 
farer that he might be pardoned for desiring to possess. 











404 


London of To-Day . 


Messrs. Shoolbred’s establishment alone there is great tempta¬ 
tion to the breaking of the commandment against covetousness. 
Who could pass Messrs. Elkington’s shop in Regent Street, or 
Messrs. Lambert’s in Coventry Street, or Messrs. Streeter’s in 
Bond Street, without a longing eye at some one or other of the 
•many beautiful and artistic examples of gold and silver work, by 
which each hopes to attract purchasers ? 

It is impossible in a book of this kind to make note of every 
shop worthy the notice of the visitor to London. All its shops are 
deserving his attention ; if not as magazines of art, as examples 
of enterprise and industry, or respectable evidences of personal 
effort on the part of their several tenants in the not too easy way 
of earning a livelihood in London of To-Day. 

If we knew exactly on what particular point the visitor 
might require to be informed, we take leave to say that he might 
be met with our ready and personal service. We yield to none 
in the local and general information at our command respecting 
London, in the honesty with which we strive to retail it, or in our 
desire to render the Reader all the aid in our power, in return for 
the three shillings and sixpence he expends upon the purchase of 
this book. But since we cannot foresee all his possible require¬ 
ments, we can but trust to the chance of aiding him, by a few 
hints gathered from our own knowledge and experience. 

The visitor will find no better place in London for buying 
English furniture of the best workmanship, than Johnstone, 
Norman, & Co.’s, of 67, New Bond Street. They are manufacturers 
of the first reputation, and may be entirely relied upon in the 
execution of the most princely or the most modest commission. 
Their show-rooms exhibit some capital examples of English work 
in chairs, cabinets, tables, sideboards, etc., etc., and not a few 
excellent decorative designs and specimens of upholstery. 

Other firms of the first rank in this line are Gillows, of Oxford 
Street; Collinson & Lock, of the same thoroughfare; Gregory & 
Co., of Regent Street; Hampton & Sons, of Pall Mall East; 
Morris & Co., of Queen Square, Bloomsbury. 


405 


Some Other Shops of Note. 



For less costly furniture of modern make, there are Maple, of 
Tottenham Court Road ; and Oetzmann & Co., of the Hampstead 
Road, who have a large and 
miscellaneous stock of 
household furniture 
of every kind, 
chairs, tables, 
carpets, cur- 
tains, 
brie-a - 
brae, 
mode 
rat ely 
priced. 

There 
is also 
Atkinson & 

Co., of the 
south side of 
London. 

Wardour Street 
had once a repu- / 
tation for old fur¬ 
niture ; but we 
cannot say much 
for that reputation now. 

Some good bits of old 
furniture maybe occasion¬ 
ally picked up at Litchfield’s 
in Brook Street, Bond Street, 
with other interesting matters ol 

BRIC-A-BRAC ROOM, CIVIL SERVICE 

ornament. stores, haymarket. 

Messrs. Farmer & Rogers’ suc¬ 
cessors (Messrs. Gulley & Co.), 117-119, Regent Street, have 
also a most interesting Indian department, full of rare and 



















































40 6 


London of To-Day. 


beautiful things ; Indian shawls (for which their reputation stands 
high), Oriental embroideries, rugs, porcelain, bronzes, carvings, 
cabinets and curios of various kinds, carefully selected, and in 
some instances unique. 

Liberty & Co., of Regent Street, are perhaps the most popular 
firm of London of To-Day, at all events with ladies. Their 
windows are fitted up with consummate taste, and comprise one 
of the attractions of the main thoroughfare. It is difficult to say 
what Liberty & Co. do not sell. Our houses are decorated 
with Liberty fabrics, or Liberty wares, of one kind or another. 
More than one fashion has originated with Liberty, which has 
outlived a season : their children’s dresses, for example, than 
which few prettier have been designed. 

They sell draperies, art fabrics, and curios of all kinds, 
collected from all parts of the world ; carved Indian black-wood 
chairs, tables and flower-stands ; Benares brass work; Japanese 
embroidered satins, and lacquer and enamel cabinets, bronze 
vases and ornaments and porcelain jars ; Chinese carved work, 
porcelain and enamels ; Arabian carpets, rugs, lamps ; Turkish 
embroideries, jewellery and so forth. This place is, indeed, 
most captivating among the shops of London. 

Every Londoner knows Mr. Lambert, of Coventry Street, the 
silversmith, who has a fine collection of antique ware, and a fine 
taste in its selection. The amateur of Church Plate, for example, 
will find much to interest him here. He may see some admirable 
examples of ancient designs, no less than of modern workman¬ 
ship. Lambert’s is one of the few London silversmiths whose 
shop-window is sure to arrest the attention of the passer-by. 
And we doubt not that Mr. Lambert would welcome him within, 
if he be curious in such matters as Corporation maces and plate, 
loving-cups, patens, cruets, chalices, silver christening basins, 
and so on. 

Thornhill’s, of New Bond Street, Barker of the same thorough¬ 
fare, and Leuchar’s, of Piccadilly, are institutions of fashionable 
London—places where one may satisfy his (or her) taste, fancy 


Some Other Shops of Note. 407 

or craving in the matter of bric-a-brac to the full, if one has the 
money. 

Cremer, in Regent Street (210), is the principal dealer in 
children’s toys, of which his establishment shows the best 
collection in London. As exhibitors of modern bric-a-brac the 
well-known firm of F. Aldis of Buckingham Palace Road has 
a capital reputation, and is much patronized by the thrifty as 
well as by those of ample means. 

The china and glass galleries are among the attractive show- 
places of London. The great English china factories of to-day 
are—Minton’s, which has familiarized us with gigantic decorative 
pieces for halls, and, in the way of tiles for staircases, for walls 
and floorings, and such perfect imitations of some of the master¬ 
pieces of bygone ages, that it requires the eye of a very well- 
trained connoisseur to distinguish them from the original; the 
factory at Worcester producing the most fashionable class of 
china just now; Copeland’s (the successor of Spode), famous for 
its statuary in porcelain, or rather Parian, ironstone, and earthen¬ 
ware ; the Wedgwood factory, recalling old associations with 
the name ; and the Doulton, turning out, perhaps, the most ori¬ 
ginal and distinctly English ware of any, and notable for its 
colouring. The factory at Lambeth well deserves a visit. It 
employs a number of lady artists, and there is a museum and 
library attached to the fine buildings, which are of a very orna¬ 
mental character. 

Among the best-known dealers in Glass and China in London 
are Mortlock’s, of Orchard and Oxford Streets, whose collection 
of these always charming accessories of the boudoir, the drawing¬ 
room, the dining, and breakfast rooms, is, for artistic excellence 
and variety, not excelled by that of any firm in London. Mort¬ 
lock’s is every way worthy of a visit; and once there the 
difficulty will be, not so much to get exactly what you require, 
but to keep your fingers from dipping too-freely into your purse. 
There are few more enticing Shops than those set apart to the 
sale of China and Glass-ware; and among these none more 


408 


London of To-Day. 

attractive than Mortlock’s establishment, for many years the 
leading one of its class in London. 

Mr. Henry J. Allen, of 24, Jermyn Street, has a charming little 
depot for china, collected with excellent taste and care. He 
has some beautiful examples of Dresden, Sevres, Vienna, Danish, 
Coburg and English ware, in the shape of candelabra, clocks, 
figures and vases, well-deserving the attention of the collector, or 
anyone looking around London for a few pieces to carry home 
as presents. We have seen many “a lovely little bit” in Mr. 
Allen’s store, and we commend it to the notice of the connoisseur. 

The picture shops and galleries afford a pleasant retreat from 
the bustle and confusion, and sometimes, truth compels us to 
add, the dreariness, of London streets. Be the day never so 
gloomy and cheerless out of doors, one may always find bright¬ 
ness and entertainment within in looking over their treasures. 

Assuredly, there is no lack of choice of such places in London 
of To-Day. The galleries of Messrs. Boussod-Valadon & Co. 
(Nos. 116, 117), New Bond Street, will transport the visitor to 
continental cities and scenes ; at those of Messrs. Dowdeswell 
(No. 160) he will find himself for the most part occupied with 
glimpses of English scenery and English life. At the galleries 
of the Fine Art Society (148), New Bond Street, exhibitions are 
periodically held, mostly of the works of modern painters. 
There is Mr. Agnew not far away, who usually has on exhi¬ 
bition during the Season one or two pictures of exceptional 
merit; and the Continental Gallery (157), New Bond Street, with 
some noteworthy examples by Norwegian, German and French 
painters, and specimens of porcelain. At the French Gallery 
( 120), Pall Mall, of the Messrs. Wallis, an interesting assemblage 
of works by continental painters is to be seen during the season. 
Mr. McLean, in the Haymarket (No. 7), is a well-known collector 
of the works of modern English artists. Mr. Tooth, his near 
neighbour, is also well known in the picture trade, and Mr. 
Obach, of Cockspur Street, has a fine collection of engravings. 

Messrs. Colnaghi, of Pall Mall East) devote most space to 












































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409 


Some Other Shops of Note. 

examples of the old masters of engraving. Mr. Graves, of Pall 
Mall (6), sells the best examples of the modern school. Mr. 
Lefevre (ia), King Street, St. James’s Square, another well- 
known London printseller, also shows favour to the work of 
living artists. We should judge that there is no more com¬ 
petent authority on the subject of engravings, old or new, than 
Mrs. Noseda of the Strand (No. 109). One never passes her 
place without seeing in the window two or more that deserve a 
frame of durable oak or lustrous ebony, and a place of honour 
in the library of the collector. There are other places in London 
where the amateur may pick up a good example ; at any of those 
more particularly referred to as Art Galleries. 

There is one attraction of the London streets which we should 
not fail to notice. In. many of the shop-windows (those of the 
handsomely built frontage of the London Stereoscopic Company, 
106 & 108, Regent Street, most conspicuous of all) are to be 
seen photographic views of various places and scenes, and 
portraits of the. more distinguished persons of the day. 

Visitors interested in Photography, and amateurs of that art, 
especially, cannot do better than pay a visit to that establish¬ 
ment, the contents of which comprise one of the most attractive 
exhibitions open to the public. The several suites of rooms, 
rising to five floors, connected by a lift, and comprising 
reception-, dressing- and instruction- rooms, studios and the 
like, are of fine proportions, and handsomely furnished in the 
modern style. Innumerable examples of photography, por¬ 
traiture, landscape, interiors, etc., may be studied on the walls; 
and the Amateur may occupy himself with the facilities the 
company provide for the practice of his art. These are suffi¬ 
ciently liberal, including dark-rooms lighted by electricity, and 
combining all the more modern improvements for developing 
negatives. For the use of these facilities the Manager informs 
us no charge is made; and such as become purchasers of the 
company’s apparatus may be made proficient in its use in a 
few lessons and without additional charge. 


3 1 


4io 


London of To-Day. 


Seeing that Amateur Photography has now become the 
fashionable amusement—nearly all the members of our Royal 
Family are experts in it, and the Emperor of Germany seldom, 
we are told, travels without his camera—it may be useful to 
the reader to know whereabouts in London he may find instruc¬ 
tion in the art, and study the best examples of professionals and 
amateurs alike, and watch if he will the methods of both. 
Nowhere will he find more favourable opportunity of doing so 
than at the London Stereoscopic Company's place in Regent 
Street. Its several departments are the completest of their 
kind in Europe; and every variety of Photographic Work is 
to be found exhibited within; and not a little also to interest 
the by-passer may be seen without. 
















. 












































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































The Stores. 


4 11 


Chapter XLII. 
THE STORES. 



N O one to whom London is familiar can be unfamiliar with 
the “Stores,” those well-known establishments in West¬ 
minster, in the Haymarket, in Regent Street, and in the City, 
where no small part of the general retail trade of London is daily 
transacted. 

Originally started on co-operative principles, some thirty years 
ago, by a few economical officials of the Post Office, the “Stores” 
have long ceased to have any real connection with the co-opera¬ 
tive system, as understood by the Rochdale Pioneers and Mr. 
George Jacob Holyoake and his friends; and are neither more 
nor less than large, general trading establishments, formed on 




















412 


London of To-Day\ 

“ limited liability ” lines, governed by a directorate and respon¬ 
sible heads of departments, but offering facilities of buying, not 
merely to duly-qualified shareholders, but to all who, by the 
purchase of a half-crown ticket (not a very difficult operation) 
constitute themselves members of such stores. 

Theoretically, none but officers and retired officers of the navy 
and army, and civil servants, and ex-civil servants, their widows, 
sons, daughters, and relatives, are supposed to deal at the “ Ser¬ 
vice Stores,” originally started for their benefit; but everyone 
'knows that, in practice, it is not impossible to extend such quali¬ 
fication, so as to include an almost indefinite number of the 
friends of “ relatives,” which elasticity of qualification brings these 
establishments within the extensive limits of open trading. 

London, however, is so vast in itself ; its ordinary residents 
and periodical visitors number so many millions of people, and 
the tendency of to-day is so entirely in the direction of amalga¬ 
mating businesses, so as to bring them together under one roof 
and under one responsible management, that, after all, the Stores 
are but following the fashion of the times, and if they do attract 
no inconsiderable share of public patronage, there is still amply 
sufficient left to satisfy the just expectations of such large firms 
as Shoolbred, Debenham & Freebody, Marshall & Snelgrove, 
Lewis & Allenby, Liberty, Whiteley, Maple, Tarn & Co., Peter 
Robinson, and others that might easily be named. 

In the initial stages of their history the Service Stores met with 
strenuous opposition from the West End London traders; mainly 
on the ground that those employed by the State had no right to 
engage in business outside their ordinary daily occupation. The 
State, it was insisted, paid its servants sufficiently well; and it 
was unfair that they should be allowed to compete with those 
whose profits are taxed to help pay (among other national 
liabilities) the salaries of Government officials. 

Time has softened the asperities of this one-time famous feud, 
in the settlement of which the aid of Parliament was once in¬ 
voked, but to no purpose. The Stores are no longer a novelty, 


The Stores. 


413 



and ordinary retail traders have found a way, if not of lessening 
the serious competition to which they are subjected, at all events 
of meeting it by greater enterprise on their part, and by the 
lowering of prices, which their former prejudicial 
system of long credits to customers rendered 
impossible. 

Into the merits of the case on 
either side it would be uninteresting 
now to enter. One ot Lord 
Chesterfield’s “ Axioms 
Trade” is “that all 
monopolies are de¬ 
structive of trade.’’ 

But neither of the 
Stores can ( or do, 
claim anything 
approaching 
a monopoly, even 
in respect of the 
custom of those 
for whose especial 
benefit they were originally founded. 

For certain articles of every-day domestic consumption, as, for 
example, groceries, and wines and spirits, the Service Stores 
may unquestionably command a very large sale, and not restricted 
solely, as we have hinted, to their own members. But in mate¬ 
rials and articles of Dress for ladies and gentlemen both, furniture, 
upholstery and other departments of trade that might be enume¬ 
rated, the ordinary retail establishments of London—such as 
Lewis & Allenby’s, Debenham & Freebody’s, Marshall & Snel- 
grove’s, Liberty’s, Shoolbred’s, Maple’s, Whiteley’s, Wallis’s, Tarn 
& Co.’s, and similar well-known firms—more than hold their own. 
The Stores enter into no competition with such businesses as 
Poole's, Whitaker & Co., Hill Brothers, Cutler & Reed, Tautz, 
llarborow, and Dor£, for gentlemen’s dress,—simply because 






















4 H 


London of To-Day. 

such firms give more attention than the Stores could afford to 
give to the personal requirements and whims of fashionable 
customers. The Service Stores have seriously affected the once 
very profitable business of the old-established naval and military 
outfitters of London; but most other tailoring and outfitting 
firms they have left untouched. 

Still, it must be admitted that the Stores have a very powerful 
fascination for no inconsiderable section of those daily engaged 
in Shopping. So far as our experience warrants an opinion, we 
admit their usefulness for the purchase of articles of daily con¬ 
sumption in the household. We go farther, and say, that they 
have wrought an enormous and beneficial reform in London in 
lessening the immense evil of long credits and high prices, whereby 
the purchaser over the counter for cash was too frequently made 
to bear the trader’s losses incurred by doubtful debts or defaulting 
debtors. 

But that they are of unmixed benefit to busy every-day pur¬ 
chasers of all things needful, we take leave to question. Than the 
Stores of the Civil Service Supply Association in Queen Victoria 
Street, City, no more perplexing labyrinth of intricate shopping, 
sufficiently irritating tp nerves and temper, and wasteful of time, 
could be entered, at least by a busy man. To save, perhaps, a 
couple of shillings, and waste an hour in trying to effect it, is very 
much as if one should save sixpence on a purchase and expend a 
shilling in carrying it home. Yet these Stores are perhaps the 
most popular, in the wider acceptation of the word, of any. 

The curious stranger will find little difficulty in entering any of 
the “ Stores,” whether he be a member or not, if he choose to be 
at the pains of finding the way. The Civil Service Co-operative 
Society, 28, Hayajarket, and the Junior Army and Navy Stores, 
York House, Regent Street, openly invite travellers from the 
Colonies and America to avail themselves of such shopping 
facilities as each affords. A ticket (price 2 s. 6 d.) from the 
Secretary of either will confer the privilege of membership, 
on proper introduction from an elected member, the one 


The Stores. 


415 


condition exacted being that all purchases are negotiated for 
cash. No departure from this rule is allowed at any of the 
Stores in London. In return, fair discounts and reductions are 
conceded to purchasers, duly set forth in full in the bulky official 
Price-lists of each association, which can be had on application. 
The several departments, arranged under one roof, exhibit arti¬ 
cles multifarious, adapted to almost every requirement, personal 
or domestic, one might name; selected with discrimination 
and taste, and with due regard to the passing fashions of the 
day. The Army and Navy Stores in Victoria Street, West¬ 
minster, is truly one of the sights of London on a busy day in 
the Season; and those of the Junior Army and Navy, at York 
House, Regent Street, are no mean rivals of the older establish¬ 
ment steadily working to the fore and increasing the numbers 
of its members. It is on the whole the most enterprising of 
the Stores. 

Pdessrs. Spiers & Pond, Limited, have recently opened to 
the public a large retail establishment on the plan of the Stores 
in the rear of Ludgate Hill Railway Station. It includes a fine 
range of separate shops for the sale of meat, poultry, fish, fruit; 
a chemist’s establishment; and .overlooking all a large building 
for the retailing of everything ordinarily to be purchased at the 
Service Stores. Access to this establishment is free from the 
primary charge usually exacted for membership elsewhere. 


4i 6 


London of To-Day. 


Chapter XLIII. 


FACILITIES OF TRANSIT IN LONDON. 

O its millions of inhabitants, and many thousands of occa- 



-*■ sional visitors, London affords, as might be expected, 
extensive and ready means of going from place to place. We 
refer now to such as are available within the limits of the 
Metropolis, City and outlying districts. 

There are the District and Metropolitan Railroads (Under¬ 
ground) to begin with, affording the quickest and most convenient 
means of transit in, around and about London. Next in order 
come the Tramcars, connecting various parts of the suburbs, 
north, south, east and west, with the City and Southern Thames 
Embankments and bridges, as Westminster and Blackfriars. 
Added to these, we have innumerable Omnibuses and Road Cars 
available to passengers, and traversing every leading London 
thoroughfare from morning till midnight. Lastly, there are 
numberless Cabs within hail of anyone with a shilling to pay 
the driver’s fare ; not taking account of the considerable number 
of well-furnished and convenient conveyances under supervision 
of the railroad companies, which may be hired by family parties 
or individual passengers going to or from the several principal 
railway stations. 

A useful book might be compiled on the easiest means’ of 
transit within and about and around London. Comparatively 
few Londoners themselves are familiar with all the numerous 
opportunities of locomotion from point to point; and a man may 
even live a lifetime within the limits of the vast Metropolis and 
not know, for example, that he may reach, let’s say, Richmond, in 
Surrey, without being at the trouble of first crossing Waterloo 
Bridge to travel by the old route of the South Western Railway. 


Facilities of Transit in London. 417 

It would require, however, a clear head, and a painstaking hand, 
and no little patience, to write a succinct and really useful hand¬ 
book of directions to the quickest and most direct ways of getting 
about in London; of going, for example, from Streatham in the 
south to Hampstead in the north ; or from Richmond in the west 
to Stratford in the east. 

We, unfortunately, could not venture upon so intricate an 
enterprise, adding so considerably to the already-sufficient work 
in connection with this publication ; but we may advise the reader 
how best to inform himself upon such means of transit, as seem 
to us calculated to meet any ordinary difficulties likely to occur 
to a stranger temporarily staying in London of To-Day. 

Let him do what we (old Londoner as we are) do: buy, 
namely, the small and useful District Railway Country Map of 
the Environs of London, published by W. J. Adams & Sons, 
59, Fleet Street, and obtainable at all District Railway stations, 
price 3 d. That will help him to understand the District Railway 
system which extends all round London, the City and Metropolis 
both, and connects also various of the principal suburbs. 

By its aid he will find that he may enter one of the carriages 
of that railway company at New Cross, in Kent, in the south¬ 
east, and travel in it to within measurable distance of Windsor 
in Berkshire lying westward. 

With the help of another map, “ The District Railway Map of 
London ” itself, he may inform himself upon the several routes 
and stations between the City and West End of the town. This 
map is also published by Adams & Sons, of 59, Fleet Street, and 
is obtainable at the District Railway Company’s stations, price 6 d. 
and upwards. 

Briefly, visitors to London will find railway stations convenient 
for travelling to all parts of the inner and outer area of the 
Metropolis ; and where the “ underground ” system does not serve 
central London, omnibuses are run by the railway companies 
in connection with their trains. 

If these directions are not sufficiently explicit, the stranger, 


418 


London of To-Day . 

walking by way of the Embankment from Blackfriars to West¬ 
minster Bridge, will find at the Temple Station and Charing 
Cross (underground) Station means of reaching by train any part 
of London. A new electric railway has just been opened, with 
its City terminus in King William Street. But at present it only 
extends to Stockwell in South London. 

CABS AND CABMEN. 

There are more than 10,000 cabs licensed for hire in London. 
In the eyes of not a few persons this means a grand army of 
cabmen always bent on demanding more than their legal fare, 
and ready with a volley of abuse in default of getting it. During 
an^experience of London now extending over more years than we 
care to tell, we have never had one serious “ row ” with a cab¬ 
man. Our practice has been, if in doubt, to yield the sixpence 
rather than expend any superfluous energy we may have in a 
wrangle ; if certain as to the fare to be paid, to yield nothing, but 
simply to pay and walk away. “ Hard words break no bones/’ 
and in skirmishing with cabmen, discretion is the better part of 
valour. 

It should be generally understood, however, that the safest 
plan when in doubt as to a cabman’s fare, at a railroad station, 
hotel, theatre or other public place, is to ask the hall-porter, 
attendant or policeman on duty, to inform you of the legal fare. 
Tables of fares are posted conspicuously outside all railroad 
stations, and in hotels and the entrance-way of theatres; and 
there is really not the slightest necessity for a stranger submitting 
to any extortion from a cabman, if the suggestion here made be 
adopted. 

OMNIBUSES. 

The most convenient and the cheapest form of travelling from 
one London street to another, or from point to point, in the 
suburbs, except where both rest on a direct line of District or 
Metropolitan railroad, is by omnibus ( anglice , “ bus ”). These 
useful vehicles traverse the streets, north and south, east and 


Facilities of Transit in London. 419 

west, central and otherwise, from 8 in the morning until 12 at 
night, and the fares are exceptionally cheap—one penny from 
Charing Cross to Broad Street Station within the City for 
example. 

TRAMWAYS 

are to be found in various parts of London connecting the 
City with the suburbs, as, for example, Blackfriars (south side) 
with Brixton; Westminster (south side) with Clapham; West¬ 
minster (south side)with Greenwich; Vauxhallwith Camberwell, 
etc., etc.—an inexpensive, easy, and speedy way of reaching such 
places. 

STEAMBOATS ON THE RIVER. 

The accommodation provided in the river steamboats is suffi¬ 
cient for the wants of the public; but the steamboats themselves 
are of the shabbiest description, considering the wealth and 
population of London. Londoners have been waiting long and 
patiently for some enterprising company to give them river 
steamboats such as New York, Boston and other American 
cities' provide. The river is as handy for Westminster, the 
Strand, the Temple, Fleet Street and the City, as road or rail, 
while there is a vast riverside population for whom it is far 
handier than any other means of communication. It wants a 
little enterprise to make the now purified Thames what it once 
was—the chief thoroughfare;of London. 

During the summer months steamboats run to Kew, Richmond 
and Hampton Court, from Chelsea Pier, starting at 11 a.m. 
Fares to^Kew, 6 d .; to Richmond, is.; to Hampton Court, is. 6 d. 

COMMISSIONAIRES. 

The Corps of Commissionaires, whose headquarters are in the 
Strand (in a little court, by the Adelphi Theatre), was founded in 
1859 by Captain Sir Edward Walter, whose object was to furnish 
employment to deserving soldiers and sailors after being retired 
from the Queen’s service. Originally these pensioners were 


420 


London of To-Day . 


engaged as street messengers only, to carry a message, letter or 
parcel; but the Corps has long since outgrown this notion, though 
it still supplies the public with trusty men for that purpose, at 
the rate of 3 d. per mile, or 6 d. per hour, with a small extra charge 
for parcels over 14 lbs. To enumerate the different employments 
for which the Corps undertakes to find competent hands, at 
wages varying from 22 s. to ^3 a week, and even more, would 
be hardly less difficult than to mention an ordinary employ¬ 
ment to which the uniform of the Commissionaires is entirely 
unknown. 


# 


Printed by Hazel], Watson, & Viney, Ld., London and Aylesbury. 



‘'The most noted Firm of LADIES' TAILORS In the World; and, he It said, the most 

original.”— Vide Press. 

BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENT TO 



26 & 27, CONDUIT STREET, 

Communicating with 

S7, NEW BOND STREET, LONDON, W, 

GOWNS, coatE mantles, hats. 

Walking Gowns for Town or Country. 

SILK AND VELVET DRESSES. 
RIDING HABITS WITH A NEW SAFETY SKIRT 

(Patented). 


To Ladies living In the Country and Abroad, Patterns and Sketches 
forwarded Post Free on Application, and Perfect Fit guaranteed. 
















“ Mr. Whitaker can advise you upon all the latest 
proprieties of dress, and turn you out in fault¬ 
less style if you elect to consult him.”—See 

Chapter XL. 


- •- 

WHITAKER & CO., 



43 , CONDUIT STREET, 


BOND STREET, LONDON, W. 


The utmost care taken in the execution of orders. 
Messrs. Whitaker & Co.’s is one of the best-known firms 
in the West End of London for excellence of material, 
fit and workmanship. 

Proprietors of “ The Repressus,” a capital invention for 
pressing trousers and renewing their shape. Simple, 
effective, handy and cheap. Awarded the Silver Medal, 
Brussels Exhibition, 1888 . 


AGENTS IN THE PRINCIPAL CITIES OF 
THE UNITED STATES OF 
AMERICA, 








LONDON OF TO-DAY. 


THE 

Illustrated Hotels’ Supplement 

FOR 1891. 


See Chapter II .:—“ Where shall we Stay ? 
and Chapter XX .:—“ Oat of Town." 






2 


Hotels at, or near, Charing Cross. 



The Dining-Hall of the Grand Hotel. 










































Hotels at, or near, Charing Cross. 


3 


GRAND HOTEL, 

LONDON. 

The 

TABLE-D'HOTE lunch. 

Price 3s. 6d. 

Served Daily from 12.30 to 3 p.m. 

The “GRAND” 

TABLE-D’HOTE DINNER. 

Price 5s. 

Served Daily at Separate Tables from 6 to 8.30 p.m. 


.HIGHEST CLASS FRENCH CUISINE, AND FINEST WINES 
AND BEST ATTENDANCE. 





4 


Hotels at f or near, Charing Cross. 

Hotel 


Metro pole, 

London. 


H^HIS magnificent Hotel, situated in Northumberland Avenue, 
" Trafalgar Square, is arranged and furnished to afford Residents 
every convenience and comfort. In addition to a large number 
of Single and Double Bedrooms, and Bedrooms with Bathrooms 
and Lavatory attached, there are Elegant Suites of Private 
Apartments. 


THE POSITION IS CENTRAL, THE ARRANGEMENTS ARE 
COMPLETE, THE PUBLIC ROOMS MAGNIFICENT, 

AND THE CHARGES MODERATE. 


The General Organization enables the Proprietors to provide the 
Highest Class Banquets, Dinners, and Wedding Breakfasts, for 
which some of the Most Luxurious Suites of Rooms in Europe are 
available. 


Telegraphic Address : “ METROPOLE, LONDON. 








Hotels' Supplement . 


5 



The Nelson Monument, Trafalgar Square. 






















6* 


Hotels at, or near, Charing Cross. 


MORLEY’S HOTEL, 

TRAFALGAR SQUARE, 
-LONDON. 


'J'HIS old - established, comfortable Hotel is 
the most centrally situated in the Metropolis. 
Its position, overlooking Trafalgar Square* 
with a south and west aspect, is unrivalled* 
close to the Houses of Parliament, Parks, 
Theatres, leading Shops, etc. 


EVERY COMFORT, COMBINED WITH MODERATE 
CHARGES. 


JAMES BROTHERS, Proprietors. 


The Post Box in the Hall is in Direct Communication with 
the Post Office. 









Hotels' Supplement. 


7 



The Strand, Eastward : Church of St. Mary-le-Strand. 













8 


Hotels at, or near , Westminster. 


[See Chapter II ., Page 59.] 

The Westminster Palace Hotel, 

Next the ABBEY, within view of the HOUSES of PARLIAMENT, five minutes' 
walk from St JAMES’S PARK, and centrally situated at the West End 
of London, 

Near all the THEATRES and PLEASURE RESORTS, WHITEHALL, 
the STRAND, REGENT STREET, &c. } 

And CHARING CROSS and VICTORIA RAILWAY STATIONS {for the Continent). 


T HIS spacious and well-known Hotel, largely patronized 
by Members of Parliament and their families, Colonists 
and American Visitors (being most convenient for those having 
business to transact at the Crown Offices and Legation), is 
one of the most comfortable in London ; quiet, well-located, 
and admirably adapted for Visitors coming to London either 
for Business or Pleasure. 

The Hotel is one of the few really Fire-proof Buildings in 
London. 

It is fitted with the Electric Light. 

And the Sanitary Arrangements are as perfect as can be. 

The Tariff is moderate. Cuisine well managed. Wines ex¬ 
cellent. 

Table-d’Hote Dinner at Separate Tables, 6.30 to 8.30 p.m. 
Price 5/-. 

The Westminster Palace Hotel is a 2/- Cab-fare from Euston, 
St. Pancras, or Kang’s Cross ; 1/- Cab-fare from Charing Cross 
or Victoria Railway Termini. 


Hy. GASCOIGNE. 






Hotels' Supplement. 


9 


THE (RESIDENTIAL) 

HOTEL BELGRAVIA, 

74, VICTORIA ST., S.W. (The Station End). 


This imposing eight-storied stone edifice (at corner of Palace Street) 
affords either Temporary or Permanent 

HOMES WITHOUT A HOUSEHOLD CARE, 

The Perfection of EnglishComfort, Privacy and Freedom. 


TO BE LET by the WEEK, MONTH or YEAR, 

HANDSOMELY DECORATED and FURNISHED 

Enclosed Suites of Rooms, each with Bathroom, 

With Porcelain Baths and constant service of Hot Water. 


An Efficient Staff of Men and Women Servants, and 

An EXCELLENT CUISINE BY first-class chef. 

Meals served in each Resident’s or Visitor’s own Home-Suite, 
or, at their option, at separate Tables in the 

SUPPLEMENTARY SALLE A MANGER, 

Having a SMOKING and READING ROOM attached, for the 
use of the Residents only. 


ELECTRIC LIGHT. NIGHT PORTER. 


AMERICAN “OTIS” ELEVATOR, 

Telegraphic Address—“BELGRAVTAN, LONDON.” 










ro Hotels near Regent Street and Piccadilly. 


BURLINGTON HOTEL, 

CORK STREET, 

AND 

OLD BURLINGTON STREET, 


LONDON, W. 


'J'HE oldest - established and most quiet Family Hotel in 
the West End. A few steps from Bond Street, 
Piccadilly and Burlington House; adjacent to all the 
principal Clubs, Theatres, Picture Galleries and Public 
Buildings. 

Coffee Room for Gentlemen; also a Ladies’ Coffee 
Room. Handsome New Smoking Room. Very moderate 
Tariff. 

The Hotel is Electric Lighted, and its Sanitary Arrange¬ 
ments are under the supervision and periodical inspection 
of the “ London Sanitary Protection Association,” of which 
the Duke of Argyll, K.G., is President. 

The Burlington Hotel, also the Buckingham Palace 
Hotel, Buckingham Gate, London, S.W., are under the 
personal supervision and management of Mr. GEORGE 
COOKE, to whom all communications should be addressed. 





Hotels' Supplement. 


11 



The Southern End of Regent Street, by Piccadilly. 








12 Hotels in, or near, Holborn and Oxford Street. 
































Hotels in } or near , Holborn and Oxford Street. 13 


LONDON. 

First Avenue Hotel. 


Is the Best Hotel in London for Real Comfort 
and Very Moderate Charges. 


Close to all the Inns o-f Court, and Five Minutes' Walk -from 
the New Law Courts. 


ELECTRIC LIGHT EVERYWHERE. 


A CAPITAL CUISINE AND EXCELLENT WINES. 


No Charge for Lights or Attendance. 




H 


Hotels at Monte Carlo and Cannes. 


Beautiful situation, facing Mediterranean, 
overlooking Public Gardens and Casino. 
Every possible Luxury and Comfort. 
Electric Light throughout. Cuisine and 
Wines of the highest class. 

METROPOLE, 


HOTEL 


Apartments en suite , with private 
Bathrooms, etc. ; also numerous 
well-furnished Double and Single 
Bedrooms. Lift to all Floors. 
Tariffs and full particulars may be 
obtained in London at the Grand 
Hotel and Hotel Metropole, and in 
Brighton at the Hotel Metropole. 


Monte Carlo. 


HOTEL METROPOLE, 

CANNES. 


y NRIVALLED, Elevated, full South Position, with 
Charming Views of Mediterranean and Pine 
Woods. 

Sanitary Arrangements Planned and Executed by Leading 
London Engineer. 


FAMILY apartments en suite with private 

BATHROOMS, etc. Lift to All Floors. 


Full particulars to be obtained, and rooms may be engaged, in 
London at the GRAND HOTEL or HOTEL METROPOLE, 
and in Brighton at the HOTEL METROPOLE. 











Hotel at Brighton , 


15 


BRIGHTON. 


HOTEL 


METROPOLE 


gPLENDID POSITION. Almost opposite the West 
Pier. Most completely and comfortably furnished. 
Suites of Apartments, with Bathrooms, etc. Also Double 
and Single Bedrooms at Moderate Prices. Electric Light 
everywhere. High-class Cuisine. Luxurious Turkish and 
other Baths. Large Garden. The Building is entirely 
Fireproof. Full Particulars by Post, or Room-plan can 
be seen in London at the Grand, Metropole, or First 


Avenue Hotels. 




16 


Hotel at Bournemouth 


THE LEADING HOTEL IN BOURNEMOUTH. 

Patronized by H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, H.I.M. the Empress 
Eugenie, H.R.H, the Duchess of Albany, H.M. the King of 
,the Belgians, the Late Lord Beaconsfield, etc., etc. 

Caution - ,— THE ONLY HOTEL or Licensed Establishment on the “ EAST CLIFF." 



ROYAL BATH HOTEL. 


BOURNEMOUTH. 

UNRIVALLED POSITION. 

Overlooking the Bay, and completely protected by Pine Woods from 
North and East Winds. 

STANDS IN ITS OWN CHARMING GROUNDS OF FIVE ACRES. 

Sea Frontage of 1,000 feet. Due South. 

Three minutes’ walk of Pier and Post Office. 

EXCELLENT TABLE D'HOTE AT SEPARATE TABLES. 

Hotel Private Omnibus meets Trains. Night Porter. Sanitary 
Arrangements Perfect. Livery Stables, and Laundry 
attached. 

MODERATE FIXED TARIFF. COMPARISON INVITED. 


“The Charges will be found most moderate, being no higher than those of other 
Establishments wherein there cannot be obtained die superior Cuisine, recherche 
Wines, and excellent service, or any of the Home Comforts and amenities of this 
Splendid and Unique Hotel .’’—Court Journal, August 16th, 1889. 

SUPERB BATHING. LOVELY CLIMATE. CHARMING SCENERY, i 











London's Health Resort, 


17 




The Hotel is the Headquarters of the ROYAL EPPING FOREST GOLF 
CLUB, and the Links adjoin. 


VISITORS TO LONDON SHOULD NOTE 

EPPING FOREST, 

LONDON’S GREAT HEALTH RESORT. 

ONLY HALF-AN-HOUR FROM THE CITY. 


ROYAL FOREST HOTEL, 

CHINGFORD, 


NINE TENNIS LAWNS, BOWLING GREEN, etc. SPLENDID HARD 

TENNIS COURT. 


The whole under the immediate personal direction of the Proprietors. 
Full Particulars oh Application. 


A Four-Horse Coach runs Daily (luring Summer for Drives through 
Forest. Particulars on application to the Hotel. 


Is charmingly situated in the 
Forest, close to Queen Eliza¬ 
beth’s Hunting Lobge, The 
Connaught Waters, and 
The Green Ride. It is the 
key to all the principal places 
of interest in the Forest, in¬ 
cluding the British and 
Roman Encampments of 
Boadicea and Suetonius. 
There are many delightful 
and interesting drives in the 
neighbourhood. 

The Hotel contains about 
60 Rooms available for 
guests. 


RESIDENTS will find the GREATEST 
COMFORT at a very MODERATE 
TARIFF (post free on application) in 
the luxuriously furnished apartments. 

A few gentlemen received on PER¬ 
MANENT BOARDING TERMS. 

The Cuisine of the Hotel and Wines 
are particularly good. 


with the CORPORATION, RANGERS and BEDFORD HALLS, offers un¬ 
rivalled accommodation for DINNERS and FESTIVALS, BALLS, etc. 


SMALL OR LARGE DINNERS of the 

most reclierchS character can be served on 
short notice. The Hotel has achieved a 
reputation for its Wedding Breakfasts, 
for which it possesses unusual facilities. 


THE NEW QUEEN’S PAVILION, 


33 



































i8 


London of To-Day. — Advertisements. 


MIDLAND RAILWAY COMPANY. 

The DIRECT ROUTE to and from Dundee, Aberdeen, Perth and the 
North of Scotland, via the FORTH RR1DCE, Is now open. 

ENGLAND AND SC OTLAND 

by the Tourist Route, “ via SETTLE and CARLISLE,” between 

LONDON AND EDINBURGH, GLASGOW, GREENOCK 

AND STRANRAER. 

LONDON AND MANCHESTER AND LIVERPOOL, 

“ Vi& MATLOCK AND THE PEAK OF DERBYSHIRE.” 

A SPECIAL SERVICEOF EXPRESS TRAINS between 
LONDON, NOTTINGHAM, SHEFFIELD, LEEDS AND 
BRADFORD, at Convenient Hours Daily. 

AMERICAN TRAFFIC. If Passengers from New York do not arrive at 
Liverpool at a convenient time for going forward to London by one of the Company’s 
regular Express trains, a Special Express Train will be ruu from the Central 
Station, Liverpool, to London (St. Pancras) for a reasonable number of Passengers. 

Baggage can be checked through from Hotel, Residence, or Pier in NEW 
YORK to Hotel, Residence, or Railway Station in LON DON, in connection with all 
chief lines of Atlantic steamers. Full particulars may be obtained from Mr. M. H. 
Hurley, the Company’s Agent, 261 262, Broadway, New York, or from notices to 

be found on board any of the Atlantic steamers. Baggage may also be checked through 
from LIVERPOOL to LONDON; and from LONDON to LIVERPOOL, being de¬ 
livered to the tender, or to the steamer if it leaves direct from the Dock, at Liverpool. 

DRAWING-ROOM SALOON CARS are run by DAY EXPRESS TRAINS. 
Passengers holding First Class Tickets are allowed to ride in these Cars without 
extra Payment. Refreshments served in the Cars at the First Class Refresh¬ 
ment Room Tariff, on application to the Conductor. 

SLEEPING SALOON CARS are run byNIGHT EXPRESS TRAINS. Acharge 
of 5s. each is made for Berths, in addition to the First Class Fare. FOR LADIES 
TRAVELLING ALONE a SEPAR ATE Saloon is reserved in the Sleeping Saloon Cars. 

*** A SPECIAL ATTENDANT accompanies both Day and Night Saloon Cars ; they 
are fitted with Lavatory accommodation, and comfortably heated during theWinter Months. 

DINING SALOON CARS are attached to the 5.0 p.m. Train from London 
(St. Pancras) to Manchester, &c., and to the 5.20 p.m. Train from Manchester to 
London (St. Pancras) ; also to the 5.40 p.m. St. Pancras to Leeds and Bradford, and 
5.30 p.m. from Leeds, and 6.24 p.m from Sheffield to London. Passengers leaving 
Liverpool at 4.35 p.m. can join the Dining Caron the 5.20 p.m. Manchester to London 
at Stockport or Derby, and Passengers travelling in the Saloon by the 5.0 p.m. Ex¬ 
press from St. Pancras for Liverpool, change into the Liverpool train at Manchester. 

No extra charge is made for riding in these Cars (which are well warmed and venti¬ 
lated) excepting the sum payable for refreshments served. Hot Luncheon, 2 s. 6 d. ; 
Table d’Hote Dinner, 3 s. 6 d. Seats may be booked in advance, and Luncheon 
Baskets, etc., ordered, on application by telegram or letter to the Station Masters. 

OMNIBUSES .—The Company run Omnibuses between St. Pancras Station and 
the Midland Grand Hotel, and Charing Cross and Waterloo Stations. 

Small One-horse Omnibuses meet Trains at St. Pancras, when previously ordered. 
Larger Omnibuses worked with a pair of horses can also be obtained on application. 
The Official Time Tables of the Company, and every information respecting their 
Trains and Arrangements, may be obtained at any of the Stations on the Midland line. 

TOURIST TICKETS are issued during the summer months from London and 
all principal stations on the Midland system to Matlock, Buxton, Scarboro’, More- 
cambe and other places of Tourist resort in the North of England, Lake District 
and Scotland. Full particulars of fares and arrangements are given in Programmes, 
to be obtained at any station on the Midland Railway. 

The MIDLAND GRAND HOTEL, one of the largest and best appointed in 
Europe, adjoins the ST. PANCRAS STATION, London. 

Derby, 1891. JOHN NOBLE, General Manager. 









THE 


Indexed Supplement. 


Classified 

Advertisements. 


London] 


OF 


best Book on London 
Practical Cossipy- Entertaining 

f' UP-TO-DATE - CLEVERTf IiLiynUTED 

London 
of 

to-day 

| b Charleys Eym. JVscoc. 

luhlidied’ Anjiuallv GpritJ** 

B KX it, Re^d it, 

^nW ^ou will be mrc 

recommend it To 

Othens. 


Att abou t T he 

SSKi» 

Parks 

COURT 
OPERA. 
concerts 

5 H.OVTS 


SHOPPING 


LOCALITIES 


AND 


Various Firms 


of 


London of To-Day. 


Edition of 1891 . 








DRESSMAKERS. 

Bond Street 
Doner Street 
Regent Street 
Conduit Street 
Burlington Street 
Lang ham Place 
Oxford Street 
Wigmore Street 


MILLINERY. 

Bond Street 
Regent Street 
Conduit Street 
Oxford Street 
Wigmore Street 
Buckingham Palace Road 
Knightsbridge 


BOOTS AND SHOES, 

Bond Street 
Piccadilly 
Regent Street 
Oxford Street 
Sloane Street 
Langham Place 



“ London of To-Day.” 

To be had of all Booksellers and at all Bookstalls . 


JEWELRY. 

LADIES’ TAILORS. 

BONNETS AND HATS. 

Bond Street 

Conduit Street 

Bond Street 

Piccadilly 

Maddox Street 

Regent Street 

Regent Street 

Sackuille Street 

Oxford Street 


Regent Street 

Wigmore Street 

Sloane Street 
Knightsbridge 
Buckingham Palace Road 





























London of To-Day. — Advertisements. 


Patronized by 

HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN, 

HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE PRINCESS OF WALES. 

HER ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCESS MARY ADELAIDE, DUCHESS OF TECK 


ESTHETIC GALLERY, 

155, fSCew Bond Street , 

NEARLY OPPOSITE CONDUIT STREET. 

Specialities in Artistic Manufactures, 

CUSHIONS, FANS, 




Proprietor: F. B. GOODYER. 







London of To-Day. — Advertisements. 


HENRY JAMES ALLEN, 

(Successor to RITTENER & SAXBY, 41, Albemarle Street, London,W.,> 

24, JERMYN STREET, LONDON, S.W. 
ROYAL SAXON CHINA DEPOT. 


Exhibition of 
1862. 

Importer and Manufacturer of 

DRESDEN, SEVRES, VIEftNA, BERLIN, & ANTIQUE PORCELAINS. 

VALUATIONS MADE. 

F. A L D I S 

Has the Largest Selection in London of 

WEDDING AND BIRTHDAY PRESENTS, 
TENNIS AND ARCHERY PRIZES, 

IN 

INKSTANDS, CANDLESTICKS, ALBUMS, 
BAGS, PUBSES, DBESSING BAGS, JEWEL CASES, 
PHOTO-FBAMES, CLOCKS, JEWELLEBY, FANS, 
FANCY CHINA, CANDELABBA, YASES, ETC. 
USEFUL CHINA AND GLASS, 
STATIONEBY, TOYS, DOLLS AND GAMES, 

AT 

11, 12, & 13, Belgrave Mansions, 

61, 63, & 65, Buckingham Palace Boad, 

% AND 3, CHEAPSIDE. 

ESTABLISHED 1852. 


By 

Special 
Appointment 
Sole Agents. 


t *HlBlT10N Of 









London of To-Day. — Advertisements. 


WEDDING CAKES. 

WILLIAM BUSZARD, 

CONFECTIONER. 


WEDDING CAKES OF FINEST QUALITY ONLY. 

Cakes of any Magnitude Always Ready. 


Prices from 1 to 60 Guineas. 


SPACIOUS SHOW-ROOMS, 


Where a Large and Varied Assortment can always 
be seen. 


Illustrated Catalogues sent Gratis upon Application. 

WEDDING DEJEUNERS, RECEPTIONS, 
DINNERS AND BALL SUPPERS SUPPLIED. 

Menu and Estimate forwarded per return of Post, also 
General Price List. 

197 S 199, OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W 
















London of To-Day .— Advertisements. 


GENUINE 

American Confectionery. 

PURE, DELICIOUS, 

FRESH EVERY DAY, 

IN GREAT VARIETY. 


BON-BONS, CHOCOLATES, 
MOLASSES CANDY, 
PEPPERMINT CREAMS & LUMPS, 
EVERTON TOFFEE, 

NUT BARS, Etc., Etc. 


AMERICAN SODA-WATER, SYRUPS AND CREAMS. 

Price Lists on Application. 

FULLER & CO., 

206 , Regent Street, London, W. 

Branch: 358, STRAND. 







London of To-Day. — Advertisements. 


“ALL GOODS MARKED IN PLAIN FIGURES.” 

“10 PER CENT. FOR CASH.” 



WOODMAN & BAILEY, 

Late 

GEO. J. WOODMAN, 

Gentlemen's 

43, LONDON WALL, Tailors. 

Two Doors from Moor gate Street, and near the Bank of 
England and Moorgate Street Station. 

Gentlemen visiting London and desirous of procuring high-class 
clothing at a moderate price, should visit this establishment, and 
inspect the stock, which comprises one of the largest and most select 
collections of materials for gentlemen s wear in London. 

All garments are cut by, and produced under the supervision of 
clever painstaking foremen, and every effort is given to secure 
satisfaction and continued patronage. 

“ All goods marked in plain figures,” from which a discount 
of io per cent, for cash is allowed. This guarantees fair dealing, 
and when a tradesman does not hesitate to mark his stock 
in plain figures it is an assurance that prices are reasonable. 

Materials kept in stock suitable for wear in all parts 
of the world. 

REGISTERED TELEGRAPHIC ADDRESS, 

“ NAMDOOW ” LONDON. 



London of To-Day .— Advertisements. 


W, HAGELMANN &SON, 
MILITARY AND COURT TAILORS, 

4, ARGYLL STREET, REGENT STREET, W. 

CLOSE TO REGENT CIRCUS. 



SAMUEL BROTHERS, 

$fterrf)ant bailors, Bogs’ ©utfittrrs, 


iLatrics’ bailors, l^abit jSBalters, 


65 & 67, LUDGATE HILL, LONDON, E.C. 

Workshops—Pilgrim Street, Lvdgate Hil’, and 
46, Gray’s Inn Road. 


Telegraphic Address —“ OUTFITS,” LONDON. 
Telephone No. 1689. 

SCHOOL OUTFITS. 


Boys’ Suits. 

Boys’ Overcoats. 

Boys’ School Outfits. 
Boys’ Hosiery. 

Boys’ Boots and S hoes. 
Gentlemen’s Clothing, 
Ready Made, 

Or to Order. 

Morning Suits. 

Frock Suits. 

Dress Suits. 

Clerical Suits. 
Business Suits. 
Liveries, &c. 


Outfits 

Of every Description 
For all Climates. 
Cycling. 

Lawn Tennis. 
Football. 

Cricket. 

Rowing. 

Ladies’ Costumes. 
Ladies’ Jackets. 
Ladies’ Mantles. 
Ladies’ Coats. 

Riding Habits. 
Riding Trousers. 


Illustrated Catalogue (400 Engravings) and 
Patterns post free. 

SAMUEL BROTHERS. 


Dress Inverness.” 

From 25 s. to 55 s. 







London of To-Day. — Advertisements. 


By Special 



Appointment. 


CHAS, COOK, 

Manufacturing Furrier, 

148, OXFORD STREET, LONDON, W. 


ESTABLISHED IN REGENT STREET \ LONDON \ 1 S 23 . 


Furriers. 


THE INTERNATIONAL FUR STORE, 

163 & 198, Regent Street, London. 

FA SHIONABLE FURRIERY. 

“The Finest Furs the World Produces.” 

SEALSKIN JACKETS, 

SEALSKIN COATS, 

SEALSKIN DOLMANS. 
CAPES AN D BOAS, 

NEW AND EXCLUSIVE DESIGNS. 

FUR GLOVES, FUR MUFFS, FOOT-SACKS. 

FUR-LINED OVERCOATS FOR GENTLEMEN. 

A MATCHLESS COLLECTION OF 

SABLE, SEA-OTTER, AND SILVER-FOX SKINS. 

THE INTERNATIONAL FUR STORE, 
Manufacturing 1 Furriers, 

163 & 198, REGENT STREET, W. 





London of To-Day .— Advertisements . 


The American Press on “ Lon don of To-Day. ” 


The New York Critic: 

“An invaluable supplement to the ordinary guide-books—a 
directory, traveller’s book, and polyglot-guide all in one, for it 
talks in many tongues, and tells the visitor to London just what he 
wants to know.” 

The St. Louis Republican : 

“ One of the most popular works issued for the trade within 
the year. In short it is a complete study of London life of 
to-day, and nobody should think of going abroad without it.” 

The Rochester (N.Y.) Democrat: 

“ ‘London of To-Day’ is altogether the most complete and 
valuable hand-work of the British metropolis that has fallen under 
our observation.” 

The New York Mail and Express: 

“ It contains, in little, a world of useful and entertaining in¬ 
formation, of which Americans who are intending to visit the 
mother-country should possess themselves.” 

The Worcester (Mass.) Spy : 

“It is far more interesting than three-fourths of the novels 
that are published, and far more instructive than half the books of 
travel.” 

The Chicago Interocean: 

“ A handsome volume, fully illustrated, giving much valuable 
information of the most wonderful city upon the globe.” 

The Philadelphia American : 

“A very cleverly designed and executed handbook to the 
English metropolis, in which the movement and living concerns of 
the day hold the chief place.” 

The New Orleans S. Democrat: 

“The ideal London guide-book, brightly and wittily written, 
amusingly and typically illustrated, circumstantial, practical and to 
the point in its advice and direction, an invaluable companion 
to the stranger of to-day whom good fortune leads Londonward 
for a sojourn within her gates.” 




London of To-Day. — Advertisements . 



PEflBERTHY, 

HOSIERY, y 
GLOVES, vtf 







and 


FANS 


Price List on Application. 

390, OXFORD STREET, LONDON. 



FOR 


, V 

Glovers. 


Ladies’ Dress Kid Gloves 
and Ladies’ Hosiery. 


Penberthy. 


1 


“ Ladies will find at this mcigasin an unrivalled stock 
in each department by the most celebrated English and 
Continental makers to choose from .”—Court Journal. 

390, OXFORD STREET, LONDON. 






SOME PRESS OPINIONS OF PASCOE’S POCKET-BOOKS. 

♦♦♦♦♦« 

<TbC {limes: “May be commended as containing much 
useful Information and many attractive Illustrations.” 

5llustrateb Xonbon 1Re\VS : “ Brimful of useful Information.” 

{Ibe Speaker: “Every man and woman who dips here 
and there into these dainty little books can with equal 
ease see their merits.” 

{Tbe (SUieen : “They had Guide-books then, as we have 
now; but of the recent, we do not remember one 
which in so compact a form supplies anything like 
the concise and intelligible Information.” 

St. James's (Basettc: “We know no more capitally com¬ 
piled and pleasantly written guide-books. They are, 
moreover, most delicately and artistically Illustrated.” 

{TbC Sportsman : “They are unique for their tiny, dainty, 
and artistically-Coloured Illustrations.” 

Xtverpool fl>OSt: “They have merits enough literary and 
artistic to induce their possessors to preserve them.” 

Cbe Scotsman: “Practically useful and written with ex¬ 
ceptional brightness.” 

IReWCastle S>ail£ Chronicle: “Quite unique in style and 
appearance.” 

Cape Hrqus : “It is difficult to be original, most of all in a 
Guide-book ; but this is really a little ‘ pet ’ of a book, 
and cannot fail to be immensely popular.” 

dfcabras {Times : “ The Publishers are probably not over¬ 
sanguine in using as a motto—‘ Marchandise qui plait 
est a demi vendue .’ ” 


“ Mr. Pascoe has struck out a line of his own in 
Guide-books, and we hope he will go on and 
PROSPER.”— The Speaker. 



<s> he 'WroVShf JVori ^ i gn 
Signed. ? 


^pcctaffp (pafrontect 6]? 

Her Majesty the Queen. 

H.R.H. the Prince of Wale* 

H.E.H. the Princess of Wales. 

H.I.M. the Empress Victoria of Germany. 
C.S.H. the Sake and Dnchess of Connaught 
H.B.H. the Princess Beatrice. 

The Empress Eugenie. 

The Imperial Family of Germany. 

The Imperial Family of Russia. 

The Royal Family of the Netherlands. 
The Royal Family of Denmark. 

Toe Royal Family of Belgium. 

The Royal Family of Spain. 

The Royal Family of Sweden, 

fcc.. fcc. 


LADIES & GENTLEMEN’S 


HATS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 


Henry Heath 





105.107.109. Oxford St.w 


HAT MANUFACTURER 

TO H.R.H. PRINCE OF WALES, K.G. 

AND H.R.H. DUKE OF CLARENCE AND AVONDALE, K.G. 

ETC., ETC. 

HERBERT JOHNSON 

(Late with LINCOLN, BENNETT, & Co.), 

45, NEW BOND STREET, W. 


DEPARTMENTS— 

GENTLEMEN'S VELVET-NAPPED CLUB CAPS IN SILK AND TWEED 
AND SILK HATS OP MOST MATERIALS. 

FASHIONABLE STYLES. YOUTHS’ SILK AND FELT 

CRUSH HATS FOR THE OPERA ( HATS. 

AND THEATRE. LADIES' SILK AND FELT RIDING 

FELT HATS IN ALL COLOURS. ) HATS. 

TWEED CAPS of NEWEST DESIGNS. HAT CASES. 

Etc., etc. 

Special Blocks made to meet the requirements of Customers. 

The requirements of American Ladies and Gentlemen very carefully 

attended to. 


















London of To-Day .— Advertisements . 


Messrs. SMALPAGE & SON, 

41 — 43 , Maddox Street, 

Bond Street, 

LONDON, W. 


TAILORS. 


Agents for the White Star Line of Mail Steamships. 



London of To-Day .— Advertisements. 


To toe obtained from 
Leading’ Drapers in tooth 
Hemispheres. 


PRIESTLEY'S 


Millinery 

and 

Drapery. 


DRESS 

FABRICS 

“FOR GENTLEWOMEN. 












London of To-Day. — Advertisements. 


Mme. S. WEATHERLEY, 

COURT DRESSMAKER, 

Supplies elegant dresses at moderate prices. 
Trousseaux, Lingerie inclusive, from 100 to 400 Guineas. 
Presentation Dresses from 20 Guineas. 


Inventor of the Corset Parfait, for rendering the figure 
slender without pressure. 


Mme. S. WEATHERLEY, 

60, BAKER STREET, W. 




fn-e< 




tine. 


Court (fbressrn,aJk,er ) 

96, Ifegent Street, W. 





London of To-Day. — Advertisements . 



SANGSTER&Co., 

LIMITED. 

UMBRELLAS 

En Tous Cas, 

FANS, 


WALKING STICKS. 


American, Continental, and other Tourists visiting London are respect¬ 
fully invited to inspect Sangster & Co.’s, Limited, large and select 
stock of 

UMBRELLAS, etc, 

Latest Fashion Newest Desigrjsof Handles for Ladies & Gentlemen. 
MODERATE IN PRICE. 


MAKERS OF PORTMANTEAU UMBRELLAS. 

USEFUL TO TRAVELLERS. 


f NEW PREMISES— [ARCH, , 

(522, OXFORD STREET, near MARBLE 
140, REGENT STREET, 

75, CHEAPSIDE, 

94, FLEET STREET, 

10, ROYAL EXCHANGE, 


LONDON- 


SIX PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED. 


Umbrella 

Makers. 


X.B_MAKERS TO THE OIEEX. 










'sements. 


“London of To-Day” (now in its Seventh 
Edition) is simultaneously published in 
England and America annually in March. 
It is re-written in great part , and re¬ 
illustrated every year , and contains infor¬ 
mation such as no other Handbook of 
London publishes. 

All Applications respecting Advertisements to 
be made to Messrs. Hazell, Watson, 
& Viney, Ld., i, Creed Lane , Ludgate 
Hill , London. 



For the Holiday Season, 1891. Now ready. 


THE CHEAPEST /\ND PRETTIEST LITTLE BOOKS 

OF THE CLASS YET PUBLISHED. 

Six pages in Colours, and several Illustrations in Black 
and White. Full of Usejul Information. 


PRICE 6d. EACH. 

Pascoe’s Illustrated Pocket-Ms, 

For HOLIDAY TRAVELLERS. 

No. 1.— LONDON-IN-LITTLE. 

„ 2—THE AMERICAN ROADS THROUGH ENGLAND. 

„ 3—THE ROADS TO PARIS. 

„ 4—BRIGHTON for visitors. 

„ 5-—EASTBOURNE AND HASTINGS. 


“ Admirably arranged miniature Guide-books. The plan is remark¬ 
ably clever. The books deserve the attention even of those who are 
familiar with the Places and Roads described.” — Manchester 

Guardian. 


LONDON: 

HAZELL, WATSON, & VINEY, Ld, 

1, Creed Lane, E.C. 

At all Railway Bookstalls and of all Booksellers in Town and Country. 





DO R E. 

HIGH-CUySS TAILOR FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, 

ON THE 

MODERN CASH SYSTEM, 

TERMS—Ten per Cent, Discount for Cash on Ordering. 


Special House for Ladies : 

13, GEORGE STREET, 

HANOVER SQUARE, W. 


Special House for Gentlemen : 


25, CONDUIT STREET, 

LONDON, W. 


Specialities for Ladies ; 


Rainproof 

Shooting, Fishing, 
and Conntry Goins. 

Rainproof 

Riding Habits, Jackets, 
Covert Coats, Ulsters. 

Rainproof 
Driving Coats, 

Travelling Wraps, 
Mantles, etc. 


WH/\T THE “ QUEEfJ ” S/\YS : 

“TheTailor-made Coats and Gowns 
On view at Mr. Dore’s, 13, George 
Street, deserve SPECIAL PRAISE. 
The cut is DECIDEDLY GOOD, and 
the STYLE ALSO.” 


Specialities for Gentlemen: 


Rainproof 

Shooting, Fishing, 
and Country Suits. 


Hunting Coats, 

Driving Coats, Ulsters. 

Rainproof 
Covert Coats, 

Beaver Overcoats, 
Inverness Capes. 


PRESS OPINION- 

Everything in this Establishment 
is of the VERY BEST, and conse¬ 
quently has a cachet about it that 
can never be given to mediocre 
articles. 


H 66 891 














and Company, 

B y SPECIAL APPOINTMENT 
IRISH POPLIN MANUFACTURERS 

TO 

HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN 
SINCE 1837, 

Keep the 

LARGEST STOCK 
•in BLACK 

AND ALT, THE 

NEWEST 


of the World. 


per yard 


Width, 

24 

inches. 


A SINGLE DRESS OF ANY 
SPECIAL SHADE MADE TO 
ORDER IN ANY QUALITY 
WITHOUT EXTRA CHARGE. 


1. Co. xcll nothing hut their 
oicn manufacture, and hare 

NO AGENTS. 


R. ATKINSON & CO., 

31, COLLEGE GREEN, 

DUBLIN. 


PRICES From 

4s. 6d. 

TO 


Patterns 
Post Free. 


DALS. 
























































































































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N. MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA 46962 


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